Nissan X-TRAIL 2010 Problems

This model X-Trail used a conventional automatic transmission with a torque converter. There are lots of things that can cause this condition, including a failure of the torque converter or any number of moving parts within the transmission itself.

But the first check is to see if there's sufficient transmission fluid inside the gearbox. Use the transmission dipstick to check the fluid level according to the owner's manual's instructions. A transmission with low fluid can certainly exhibit the symptoms you've noted. A quick fluid top up might put the wheels back in motion.

Bear in mind, however, that the transmission is a sealed unit and should only require top ups if there's a leak somewhere. That leak needs to be identified and fixed or the problem will recur.

It concerns me somewhat that any metal shavings were found in the oil when the gearbox was serviced. That said, some metallic `dust’ is part of the process of a transmission wearing, so it’s not necessarily the end of the world. In fact, this tiny debris is common enough that manufacturers actually often fit magnetic drain plugs to trap the particles and stop them being pumped through the transmission time and time again where they can do more damage.

I guess it all comes down to the size of the particles and whether a specialist transmission shop (which is your first port of call) thinks they are worth worrying about. But as rule of thumb (quite literally) if the particles are big enough to be picked up in your fingers or they feel sharp, then there’s something wrong inside that gearbox.

Metallic dust on its own is also less of a problem if there are no other symptoms. But you seem to think the behaviour and shift patterns of your transmission have changed recently (prompting you to have the unit serviced) and that really begins to sound like there’s something going on inside the transmission. Mind you, at the mileage you’ve quoted, that’s not really a surprise and plenty of CVTs have given up the ghost longer before 250,000km have been covered.

If your car was built between August 6 and October 30, 2010, Wayne, then it was the subject of a Nissan recall that was announced in November 2011. Apparently, the power-steering’s assistance could simply stop working, meaning that the steering would still work, but would require a lot more muscle input form the driver. Check the dashboard for a power-steering warning light that is the other clue that this is what’s happening.

The fact that your car’s problem is intermittent is a bit confusing, but given its recall history, I reckon a visit to a Nissan dealership to see whether the car was one of the affected ones is worth the effort. The other possibility is that the car needs a wheel-alignment as the wheels are not pointing where they should be when you’re turning right.

The problem is that your driving routine doesn't meet the requirements for the Diesel Particulate Filter to conduct an automatic burn that it must do to get rid of the carbon that has accumulated in it as part of its normal function. The auto burns happens without you knowing, there is no effect on the engine operation while it's going on, but if it doesn't happen the warning light comes on, the engine warning comes on, and eventually the car goes on to a limp home mode that virtually forces you to go to the dealer who can do a forced burn to restore the filter to normal operation. If it's not done it can result in a damaged filter, and can also result in damage to the catalytic converters and that can lead to a very large repair bill in the many thousands of dollars. There isn't much the dealer can do, other than what they have done on your car, and the suggestion to buy a new car is a sign of the frustration they are feeling. Nissan's reputation in the trade is that they are very uncooperative when it comes to warranty claims, although in this case there is little they can do, the solution needs to come from Japan.

It’s obviously frustrating and of course will affect the resale value when you come to move it on. There’s not much you can do about it; perhaps you could consult the consumer affairs people to get their opinion on whether Nissan should provide some compensation for what would seem to be an issue with their cars. One way of reducing the wear on seats is to slide the seat back before getting out, that way you won’t rub the seat as you exit. It’s the same when you get in, if the seat has already been slid back you won’t rub across the bolster as you enter, and of course you then have to slide the seat forward to your normal driving position.