Holden Reviews

Modern automatic transmissions are pretty complex things and there’s a lot that can go wrong from the simple low fluid level to the catastrophic like a broken torque converter or failed valve body, gearset, oil pump or clutch pack.

But mechanics know that the first sign of this transmission failing totally is a refusal to select Drive. Take the car to a transmission specialist who will have seen these symptoms before and will have a pretty good idea of what’s going on before they even lay a spanner on the car. And be prepared to replace the transmission as the only proper fix.

A second-hand transmission from a wrecked Commodore might be an option, but only if you can prove that the unit has done moderate mileage and, therefore, is probably not about to produce the same symptoms as yours already has.

It honestly doesn’t sound too bad given the average dealership labour rate is usually something like $160 or even $200 per hour to the customer. Also, genuine Holden parts for this type of job will always be preferable to aftermarket parts, and if the quote is to drive the car in and drive it out again with a brand new turbocharger working perfectly, then the price is probably pretty good.

If you want to save money, you can always try to find an independent workshop, but make sure you use one that knows this type of car and this type of repair. And don’t be afraid to ask about where the new parts are coming from.

Presumably the car makes this noise when you hit a bump or undulation. The Commodore’s front end is not particularly complex and is, in fact, a pretty standard MacPherson strut set-up.

With that in mind, there are only so many things that could cause the front end to bang or rattle, including a worn ball-joint, tie-rod end, or suspension bush. But don’t forget about the bushes in the steering rack, too, as these can contribute to a noise from the front end.

If all the suspension checks out, then you need to go a bit deeper into things like the cross-member mounts, engine mounts and even wheel bearings. Any wear or play in these components will cause a clunk in the right circumstance.

If none of that helps then you need to look beyond the suspension and into areas like a loose battery tray in the engine bay or even a loose piece of trim or sheet metal somewhere on the car. Exhaust heat shields are prime candidates for this, as are the metal shields at the back of each brake disc.