Holden Problems

The most problematic of the Cruze transmissions were the six-speed automatic fitted to Cruzes built between 2011 and 2013. Holden actually instituted a special repair program for owners of these cars and extended the warranty period on those that had been repaired under the terms of that program.

The 2015 car you’re looking at should not have these problems, but the Cruze itself was plague by a long list of other faults including oil and coolant leaks, overheating, cracked cylinder heads and more. To be fair, the later the build date, the less likely the problems were to occur, but any Cruze needs a careful, independent inspection before money changes hands.

The starter motor would be a very good place to start looking for the problem. If the battery checks out (and that presumes you’ve load tested it, not just run a voltmeter across its terminals) and the addition of a second jump battery only just turned the engine over, then, the starter motor is a likely suspect.

But don’t forget things like a poor earth somewhere on the car or a dodgy ignition or starter button. Once the engine is running, check the power going into the battery. You should be looking at between 13.2 and 14.5 volts going into the battery with the engine running if the alternator is pulling its weight.

Just because the battery indicator is showing green, does not mean categorically that it’s in good health. It can produce a surface charge that might show 12 volts with no load on it, but can fall to its knees when you load it up with the starter motor.

Rather than the new battery causing the headlights and wipers to come on, this sounds more like the lights and wipers were already playing up, coming on randomly for no reason, and killing the original battery when your back was turned.

This is a relatively common problem and can usually be traced back to the car’s body computer. If the computer starts to act up, it can switch on various things including lights and wipers, even though the car is locked in the driveway and the key is in your kitchen.

Try an auto electrician who is a bit more familiar with modern body computer set-ups, but in the meantime, there’s a quick trick you can try that might stop the car misbehaving. Disconnect the car’s battery and leave it overnight before reconnecting it. This can sometimes be enough to reset the body computer and the problem will go away. Beware, though, this fix might be temporary and may return some weeks or months later.

There could be a complex, electronic, fuel-supply or engine-management reason for this, and if that's the case, having the vehicle scanned would be a good place to start. Or, it could be a case of human behaviour that is skewing your fuel economy figures.

By which, I mean that when you got the car brand-new, you gave it the kid-gloves treatment, understanding that the brand-new engine needed to be run in and would appreciate a slightly easier start to life. Then, as the novelty wore off and the vehicle began to earn its living, you subconsciously grew a heavier right foot. And it is this that's seen the fuel consumption creep up.

Failing that, you might have an on-board computer that has been silently recalibrating itself, perhaps in conjunction with software updates at the dealership which you may, or may not have, been made aware by the dealer. To be perfectly honest, I'd find 6.4-litre per 100km average on a Colorado borderline unbelievable, and the sort of economy only a dedicated fuel-saving driver could even get close to. Ten litres per 100km, meanw

It all depends on what you mean by coming on and off. The air-bag light should come on briefly every time you start the engine, but should then go out after a few seconds. This just confirms the car is checking the air-bag system for proper operation and is perfectly normal.

If, however, the air-bag light is lighting up randomly as you drive down the road, then you need to have the car scanned to see what the problem is. In this case it could easily suggest that there's a problem with this critical safety system, so don't ignore it.

No, the manual and automatic versions of the Crewman are rated to tow up to 1600kg and 2500kg respectively with a braked trailer. This is to protect the clutch of the manual versions which could easily be damaged trying to tow the automatic's 2500kg.

It's generally accepted that the more progressive take-up from rest of an automatic transmission makes it the better solution for a tow-car in the first place. And that extends beyond any single make or model.

The workshop you want is a specialist air-conditioning business. Air-con might have a simple job to do, but it’s a complex system with lots of interlocks to protect the various bit and pieces. If, for instance, the gas level is low, a sensor will detect this and disable the air-con compressor so the system can’t be damaged by running with low gas or lubricant. So, simply replacing sensors and other bits and pieces randomly is a great way to tear up money and still not fix the problem.

You need to have the system checked by somebody who understands the technology. They will test for leaks, check whether the system is holding pressure and then check the operation of the rest of the hardware including the compressor, receiver-drier, condenser, blower-fan and relevant filters.

If you’re lucky, the system may just need re-gassing, but you could also be up for some expensive new parts if there’s other damage or problems. But without a proper diagnosis, you’re flying blind.