Holden Problems

Something, somewhere in the vehicle (probably the driveline) is causing the car to go into what’s called limp-home mode. This is designed to limit speed and power and, therefore, protect the vehicle from further damage due to the original problem.

You may have a fuel problem or an exhaust problem or maybe there’s something wrong with the emissions control system, or even a simple electrical sensor that’s faulty. The point being that you won’t know what the actual problem is until you scan the vehicle to see what the computer has seen going wrong. Until then, you’re just guessing and the vehicle will continue to go into limp-home mode. These problems don’t fix themselves.

The clicking noise is probably the central locking actuators that physically lock and unlock the doors. If they’re constantly cycling, it won’t be long before they fail. Which sounds like why the car locked you in.

The reason they’re cycling constantly is probably something to do with either the sensors that tell the car a door is ajar, or the body computer that controls a huge array of functions in a modern car. An auto electrician is probably your best bet to have this sorted.

Noises like this are mostly temporary and are caused by a small rock or some other foreign object becoming jammed between the brake disc and the brake pad. Often, a sharp jab of the brake pedal (when it’s safe to do so) will dislodge the object and peace will be restored.

But if you’ve replaced the wheel bearings, then you’ve already had to remove the brakes. So unless the stone or whatever is lodged deep in the brake pad material, that’s probably not the cause here. Which means you need to look more closely.

The ABS sensor is an interesting theory, but I’d imagine if the clip had broken and dived into the front end anywhere, you’d have an ABS warning light on the dashboard by now. Perhaps it’s something to do with the front hub or the front driveshaft assembly. Perhaps a CV joint? Check for damage to the CV joints’ rubber boots. Don’t rule out a pothole having wrecked your wheel alignment, at which point what you’re hearing is a front tyre being torn to shred.

And what about the power steering system. These can squeal when they’re low on fluid, have air in the system, the belt is slipping or the pump itself is worn out.

We have seen this problem before in at least one other ZB Commodore, so you’re definitely not on your own. The problem is very possibly caused by a misalignment of the micro-switch that detects the car is, indeed, in Park, and allows it to be powered down. If the computer can’t see the correct signal from this micro-switch or sensor, it assumes the car is not ready to be locked and left.

Given that yours is not the only example of this, perhaps your auto electrician has seen this before and will know what the fix is. Even if they’re not familiar with the problem, a good auto sparky should be able to sort this. If not, a transmission specialist would be your next port of call.

This engine has a reputation for failed EGR valves which are part of the emissions control system and live within the rocker cover. Without this valve working properly, the car’s tailpipe emissions can be higher than they should be, as well as causing the oil leak you’ve noted. And any time you have oil hitting a hot exhaust system, there’s the potential for a fire.

In some cases you can simply change the EGR valve, but experience suggests that with some engines, the solution is to replace the entire rocker cover which will incorporate a new EGR valve. The parts can usually be bought online.

The SVS light is otherwise known as the Service Vehicle Soon light. It indicates that there’s something wrong with the car’s engine management (in the case of your Statesman). In this make and model, it’s often triggered by a faulty oil-pressure sensor which is relatively cheap and easy to replace.

But that shouldn’t cause the misfire. Which means you need to look further and that would start by giving the car an electronic scan. It’s worth knowing that these engines used spark plugs that required replacement at 80,000km intervals. These won’t cause the computer to log a fault code, but they do fail remarkably reliably at this mileage, and a misfire is the first symptom.

Let’s start with the basics here. Is your vehicle a petrol- or diesel-engined Rodeo? If it’s the former, you may have disturbed the wiring when changing the filter. So go back and check all the connections. If you can’t hear the pump whirring when you turn on the ignition, then you either have a fuse or wiring problem or the pump itself has died.

It’s pretty common for this to happen and most electric fuel pumps have a lifespan of something like 100,000km. But this can be a lot shorter if the car has ever been filled with contaminated fuel.

If your Rodeo is a diesel, there’s a chance it will need to be primed before it will restart after a filter change. That is, it needs to have any air in the fuel system removed before it will run. Locate the fuel filter in the engine bay, and you should see a small plunger at the top. With everything refitted, you can manually push on this plunger to prime the pump and remove any air. All things being equal, the engine should then start and run.

Speaking of back to basics, make sure you haven’t installed the new fuel filter the wrong way around. These only flow in one direction and installing it backwards will not allow the fuel to flow from the tank to the engine.

This looks like a classic case of a body computer that is in the process of dying. Any time you see random lights coming on, or the stereo switching itself on, suspicions are always that the body computer as the culprit.

This computer controls literally hundreds of functions from the wipers, climate control, lights, entertainment system, even stuff like the rear window demister and central locking. And when the computer starts to fail many of these functions can go haywire, which is pretty much what you’re seeing.

The tail-lights staying on and the stereo witching itself on are what’s draining your battery, but the body computer is very likely the root cause and probably needs to be replaced. But before you do that, try this: Disconnect the battery overnight and then reconnect it next morning. Sometimes (but not always) this swill reset the body computer and might stop it playing tricks. The fix might be temporary, but it’s definitely worth a shot.

There’s a variety of ways for this problem to occur, so let’s start with the basics. Is the battery in good condition? Even though it may show 12 volts on a tester, when you actually apply a load to it (via the starter motor) you may find it loses the plot. And modern, fuel-injected engines hate having low voltage when they’re trying to start or run.

The next thing to check would be whether you have power at the coil packs. If you don’t, you need to work your way upstream to find out where the power stops. The fuses and relays for the ignition are a likely culprit. And don’t forget to make sure the coil packs are earthed properly. Bad earths are an incredibly common way for modern engines to go haywire.

The recommended coolant for this model Holden Cruze is the common, red OAT (Organic Acid Technology) coolant. This is actually really important to get right as the wrong type of coolant can damage the engine over time. The red OAT coolant is also a long-life product, so it’s the one to use.

As far as engine oil goes, the recommended grade is a fully-synthetic 5W30. Don’t forget to change the oil filter, too, as putting clean oil back through a dirty filter makes no sense at all.

All these products should be readily available at any decent auto part store, or you can buy them online form a variety of outlets.