Holden Problems

If your diagnosis is correct, the problem will be with the either sensor that detects the temperature of the coolant, the computer that creates the signal to open, the wiring that carries the message or the thermostat itself. An auto electrician should be able to sort this out by testing the components one by one until the dud one reveals itself.

But there’s another possibility in cars like this one with a thermostat that lives in a plastic housing. Over time and repeated heat cycles, the plastic can degrade and fail internally. At that point, the actual thermostat mechanism can move sideways and jam against the housing, effectively preventing it from opening., At that point the engine can overheat. Don’t rule that out until the condition of the housing has been checked.

An automatic gearbox relies on fluid pressure as well as volume to make everything work as it should. So, if the level of fluid is correct, you then need to move on to the pump and accumulators involved to ensure that the correct hydraulic pressure is being applied to the bands and clutches that actually apply drive to the gears and physically move the car.

Your problem could be something as simple as a worn pump, but it could also indicate internal wear and tear that requires a complete transmission rebuild. A transmission specialist is your best bet. The good news is that this is a common and well understood transmission, so finding an expert shouldn’t be difficult.

It sounds like the new head gasket isn’t working properly and the car is still overheating. Or, the root problem wasn’t the head gasket in the first place, or that the mechanic missed something crucial that allowed the new head gasket to fail almost straight away.

Was the cylinder head checked for straightness? Was the cylinder block checked for cracks? A warped cylinder head or cracked block or bore can give symptoms just like a failed head gasket, but replacing the gasket won’t fix them. I think you need to have a deep and meaningful conversation with your mechanic and work out a plan to either dig further into the engine or replace it with a second-hand unit that’s been tested. The latter is probably the smarter, cheaper way to go. Either way, though, you risk spending more on the car than it’s actually worth. Maybe it’s time for something newer, more efficient and safer, not to mention more reliable.

I believe the part number you need is GM96683849. That’s what shows up for the 2003 Cruze, anyway. But if you can’t find one, then maybe try a Suzuki parts specialist. Because the Cruze was heavily based on the Suzuki Ignis of the time, there’s a good chance the clutch cables will be interchangeable.

If you still can’t locate one, there are specialist businesses out there that can make you a clutch cable to any specification from scratch. This might be more expensive, but if it keeps you on the road, then it’s worth the extra. By the way, the cable for your Cruze, through a parts store, shouldn’t cost more than $100.

You could have an engine problem that is causing the vehicle to lose power. The cause of this could literally be a thousand different things. An electronic scan of the vehicle might shed some light on the root cause of the problem, and most mechanics would carry out such a scan before doing anything else.

If the engine is not at fault, you might find the problem can be traced to a transmission that is not shifting gear properly or is slipping, or perhaps even something as simple as a dragging brake or poorly adjusted park-brake. But before you hit the workshop, you can check simple things like the condition of the engine’s air filter to make sure there’s no obvious cause. If your car is a turbocharged model, check the plastic trunking that carries the boost from the turbo to the engine’s intake. This trunking can split or fall off, leading to a loss of boost pressure and, therefore, performance.

A common cause of overheating can be a failed head gasket which allows the coolant to be consumed by the engine. When this happens, soon there’s not enough coolant remaining to cool the engine and the car overheats.

But it may not be as serious as that. You could simply have a stuck thermostat. This is the component that prevents coolant flowing around the engine when it’s first started, forcing the engine to warm up faster. Then, as the engine gets warmer, the thermostat starts to open to allow the coolant to flow through the engine and do its job, maintaining the correct running temperature in the process.

Other possible causes for overheating include incorrect ignition timing, a slipping fan belt, non-functioning cooling fans, a collapsed radiator hose, blocked radiator, a worn water pump and many others. A good mechanic should be able to make a diagnosis and tackle the problem from there.

You haven’t told me which engine is fitted to your car, but if it’s the turbo-diesel engine, then the cause may be a pretty simple one. This engine has a habit of splitting the plastic trunking that takes the pressurised intake air from the turbocharger to the engine’s inlet manifold. If that happens, the air is free to escape to the atmosphere, and doesn’t make it’s way into the engine.

That’s why you’ll hear a noise like air escaping (because that’s precisely what it is) as well as a lack of power, because the engine is not receiving all the boost from the turbo. You’ll probably also notice that the car is blowing more black smoke than it should.

The fix is a new piece of plastic pipe that should be well within the abilities of any workshop to fit.

The fact that the scan doesn’t throw up a fault code could be an indication that it’s something pretty fundamental at fault here. Have you checked the car’s earth points and the tightness and cleanliness of the battery terminals? Apparently simple things like this can easily cause a random misfire. How is the condition of the battery and the charging rate? Modern engines hate low operating voltages.

But don’t rule out a problem with the fuel system, either. You might have a faulty fuel pump or a dirty fuel filter or even a dud injector that’s causing the glitch. Don’t forget to check the wiring to these components, either as a simple loose wire could be the problem.

If you do need to dig deeper, you could try checking the engine’s compression and the clearances of the engine valves. Even something like a cracked cylinder head or faulty head gasket can cause a misfire that shows up at, say, a particular engine temperature, but not at other times.

A clunk during gear changes often indicates wear in the transmission’s internals or even the torque converter. But you might also find it’s not the gearbox at all, but something elsewhere in the drivetrain such as a universal joint on the driveshaft or even the differential.

A transmission specialists is likely to have either seen this exact problem before, or will be able to quickly diagnose where the noise is coming from. That’s the first step, as you’re otherwise flying blind. Clunks and noises can move along the length of the driveline, making them very hard to track down precisely.

It’s certainly strange behaviour and your theory that because it works perfectly some of the time, it’s probably not terminal is a decent one. If something internal was broken or worn out, the transmission wouldn’t work at all. Which leads any mechanic to suspect you have either a gear selection problem or an electrical glitch.

Scan the car electronically to see if any fault codes are thrown up. But also check for things like bad earths or blown fuses and relays. You can’t rule out a major internal failure until you get inside the gearbox itself, but starting with these simple things can help eliminate other possibilities. You may find the ECU (the computer than controls the driveline) is the culprit, and is having random melt-downs.