Chrysler Reviews

There’s a range of possibilities here. The first is that even though the battery had enough urge to illuminate the dashboard lights when you turned the key, it didn’t have enough to actually spin the engine to start it.

Conversely, you might also find that there’s a problem with the wiring that takes power from the battery to the starter motor, which would also see the engine refuse to crank. But don’t rule out the obvious stuff like a blown fuse or relay in the starting system.

You might even have a problem as simple as a poorly adjusted switch that prevents the engine from starting if the transmission is not in Park. Try starting it with the gearbox in Neutral and see if that works. If it does, your transmission safety switch is a dud and needs to be either replaced or repositioned.

I kind of agree with the workshop you used that the problem was a prime candidate to be caused by the TIPM unit. This is basically a fuse-box, relay-box and electrical control unit rolled into one and, when it fails, it can often cause the problems you’re seeing all happening at once. This unit performs a very similar role to the body computer in other makes and models and it’s used to allow various functions of the car to talk to other components and functions.

I understand that the new TIPM hasn’t fixed things, but faults with these units are not uncommon and it wouldn’t be the first time a brand new component has been faulty before it has even been fitted. A good check would be to try the TIPM from a car you know works properly and see if that fixes the issues. Certainly, the random and grouped nature of the faults points to the TIPM in a big way. If it really isn’t the TIPM at fault, I’d start looking for a bad earth somewhere on the car that is causing the mayhem.

But try this test first. Disconnect the battery and leave it overnight. Next morning, reconnect the battery and see if the problem has gone away. It’s worth a try even though the fix may not last indefinitely, but it’s simple and free.

The first thing to do is find out where the leak is exactly. It could be in some of the plumbing that takes the water form the reservoir to the washer jets, but it's probably more likely to be a crack in the plastic reservoir itself.

If that's the case, you could try to mend it with some epoxy (or a lump of some other repair material) but if the tank is old and brittle enough that it's already cracked, the repair will almost certainly be temporary at best. What you need to do is find a replacement reservoir and fit that to the car. The problem there is that even a second-hand reservoir from a parts recycler will probably be just as old as the one you're replacing and might fail in the same way in the not too distant future.

You might get lucky and find an online seller with this exact product brand new, although you might have to order it from overseas. When it arrives you'll probably have to remove the pump unit from your old bottle and fit it to the new one, although some sellers provide the whole battle and pump assembly. That will be the dearer option.

You could also buy what's called a universal washer bottle kit. These are designed to 'fit all cars' but don't actually fit anything perfectly, particularly something relative modern like a Crossfire which has a pretty convoluted bottle shape to fit the space it's designed for.