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Mitsubishi Triton
EXPERT RATING
7.6
/ 10
See our complete guide for the Mitsubishi Triton

Mitsubishi Triton Pricing and Specs

2021 price from
$23,490*

The Mitsubishi Triton is available from $23,490 to $53,490 for the 2021 Ute across a range of models.

Variety is key to success in the always booming Australian utility market, and so Mitsubishi's popular Triton workhorse is available as a single cab, double cab or king cab set-up, with a cab chassis or pick-up body style, and with a choice of petrol or diesel engines. All of which has helped contribute to the more than 300,000 sold here since its launch in 1986. Depending on where you plan on driving it, you can choose a four-wheel drive, or save your pennies and opt for a cheaper rear-wheel drive variant, but a wide choice of trims and options ensures the Triton can vary from a purely agricultural offering to a comfortable and car-like vehicle.

The Triton GLX (4X2) starts off at $23,490, while the range-topping, Triton GSR (4X4) is priced at $53,490.

This vehicle is also known as Mitsubishi Forte, Strada, Dodge Ram 50, Plymouth Arrow Truck, Mitsubishi Mighty Max.

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Year Price From Price To
2021 $23,490 $53,490
2020 $16,500 $55,440
2019 $13,600 $52,250
2018 $11,700 $42,020
2017 $9,900 $34,540
2016 $8,800 $31,020
2015 $7,800 $29,150
2014 $7,000 $24,860
2013 $6,500 $22,880
2012 $6,000 $21,340
2011 $5,400 $19,360
2010 $5,100 $16,720
2009 $4,500 $17,380
2008 $4,000 $15,510
2007 $3,900 $14,190
2006 $2,900 $12,870
2005 $2,800 $9,680
2004 $2,600 $9,130
2003 $2,400 $8,360
2002 $2,200 $7,590
2001 $2,000 $6,380
2000 $2,000 $5,940
1999 $2,400 $5,060
1998 $2,400 $4,730
1997 $2,400 $4,730
1996 $2,400 $5,390
1995 $2,400 $5,390
1994 $2,400 $5,390
1993 $2,400 $5,390
1992 $2,400 $5,390
1991 $2,400 $5,390
1990 $2,400 $4,070
1989 $2,400 $4,070
1988 $2,400 $4,070
1987 $2,400 $4,070
1986 $2,400 $4,070

Mitsubishi Triton FAQs

Check out real-world situations relating to the Mitsubishi Triton here, particularly what our experts have to say about them.

  • Mitsubishi Triton 2000: Problems putting it in reverse

    There are three (generally speaking) things that can be causing this problem, Mark. You could have a problem with the clutch, the gear selectors or something internal in the gearbox itself. A worn or collapsed bearing or mangled gear cluster could cause this, but I’d expect other symptoms like horrendous noises and the refusal to select some gears at all, not just randomly. If you’re lucky, the cause could a simple mal-adjustment of the selector mechanism.

    Meanwhile, you’ve told me you don’t think there’s anything wrong with the clutch but, to be honest, I’ve seen these same symptoms before on cars with worn out clutches. Sometimes the actuating fingers of the clutch break, other times there’s just too much wear for the clutch to function properly. Sometimes it’s as simple as a leak from the clutch’s hydraulic system or a stretched clutch cable. But either way, clutch problems can certainly cause this sort of grief.

    Reverse can be hard to select because the clutch is not disengaging fully, so try this experiment: Turn the engine off and try to engage reverse. If it goes in easily every time and only baulks when the engine is running, that’s a classic case of a dying clutch.

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  • Mitsubishi Triton 2016 or Isuzu D-Max 2015: Which one should I buy?

    The D-Max is pretty well regarded in the trade for its ability to go the distance, but modern, common-rail diesel technology has shown that a vehicle with fewer kilometres is usually a better bet than one with more. Although they do an amazing job in terms of power, torque, towing and fuel economy, today’s turbo-diesels are pretty highly strung in some ways and really need their maintenance. And the older they get, the more attention they seem to need in terms of new injectors, filters and pumps.

    A D-Max with those kilometres might be ready for a pretty big (and expensive) service, too, so make sure your first trip in it isn’t going to be to a workshop. Ultimately, price, condition and service history should steer your decision as they should in any second-hand vehicle purchase. I’d take a vehicle with 150,000km with a full service history over a 60,000km one with no service records.

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  • Mitsubishi Triton 2008: Central locking issues

    A lot of cars don’t like having a battery that is low on charge or being jump-started. Either of these things can cause the body computer or even the main ECU to start playing up. My guess in this case would be the body-computer which controls the dashboard functions and things like the central locking system.

    Before you rush out and pay a mechanic to look at the vehicle, there are a couple of things to try. The first is to take the remote-control for the central locking and hold the button down for at least 30 seconds. Sometimes this is enough to reset the computer and return the vehicle to normal.

    If that doesn’t work, get the engine up to temperature, shut it down and carefully disconnect the battery. Leave it that way for at least 30 minutes, reconnect the battery and see if that has produced a reset. You might find the car will run a bit roughly (mainly at idle) at first until the reset computer relearns a few parameters, so be careful on the first drive after trying any of this.

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Disclaimer: You acknowledge and agree that all answers are provided as a general guide only and should not be relied upon as bespoke advice. Carsguide is not liable for the accuracy of any information provided in the answers.

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