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Hyundai I30
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Hyundai I30 Pricing and Specs

2021 price from

The Hyundai i30 is available from $23,420 to $47,910 for the 2021 range of models in Hatchback and Sedan body types.

The car that transformed Hyundai into one of Australia's top-selling manufacturers when it first launched in 2007, the perennially keenly priced and well-equipped i30 has flirted several times with the mantle of the country's most popular vehicle. The first two generations boasted sharp European styling, a quality-feel interior and a choice of petrol or diesel engines, and the i30 is equally at home on a private buyer's driveway as it is on a company fleet.

Priced range from $23,420 for the I30 (base) and $47,910 for the top-spec I30 N Performance LUX S.roof, the hatch only (the sedan version is called the Elantra) i30 has its ride and suspension is tuned locally to better suit Australian road conditions, and offers varying levels of performance depending on your budget.

This vehicle is also known as Hyundai Elantra GT.

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Year Price From Price To
2021 $23,420 $47,910
2020 $14,400 $46,970
2019 $13,100 $45,650
2018 $11,900 $41,580
2017 $11,300 $28,160
2016 $10,600 $25,520
2015 $7,700 $22,770
2014 $6,200 $16,500
2013 $5,600 $15,180
2012 $4,700 $12,650
2011 $3,900 $9,460
2010 $3,400 $8,360
2009 $2,800 $7,150
2008 $2,300 $5,940
2007 $2,100 $5,390

Hyundai i30 FAQs

Check out real-world situations relating to the Hyundai i30 here, particularly what our experts have to say about them.

  • Does a 2010 Hyundai i30 have a timing belt or chain?

    The Trophy version of the i30 used exclusively the two-litre petrol engine. As such, it actually has both a timing belt and a timing chain. The engine has twin overhead camshafts, but only the exhaust camshaft is driven by the timing belt from the crankshaft. A short timing chain then takes drive from the exhaust camshaft to the intake camshaft. The engine also features variable valve timing.

    The good news is that you really only have to periodically replace the timing belt (the chain should be maintenance-free for the life of the engine). The recommended replacement interval is every 100,000km.

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  • Hyundai i30 2010: Why can I smell exhaust fumes in my car?

    This needs to be fixed fast, Toni, as a car’s exhaust fumes are a deadly cocktail of gasses. Enough exposure to them can make you pass out (an obvious problem when you’re driving) or worse. Diesel engines are generally a bit smellier than a petrol engine, but no exhaust fumes should ever enter the car.

    You’re either getting fumes drawn into the car via a faulty seal that is allowing exhaust fumes in, or the smell you’re experiencing is fumes in the engine-bay coming through the firewall. You need to inspect all the rubber seals around the doors and hatchback and search underneath the car and in the engine bay for a split or missing rubber bung or grommet that is letting the outside in.

    The other question I have is whether the smell is the result of exhaust fumes or, in fact, the smell of unburnt diesel fuel. Diesel cars often acquire a diesel-fuel smell over time and the cause is hard to avoid. Because diesel doesn’t evaporate, the ground around the diesel pump at a service station is usually one big oily, diesel slick. When you fill your car, you unavoidably stand in this slick which is then transferred to the car’s carpet when you get back in. It’s not as crazy as it sounds, and it may be the clue you’re missing to explain the smell.

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  • Why is my 2013 Hyundai i30 consuming so much fuel?

    That’s definitely higher consumption than I would have expected. Are you driving exclusively in stop-start traffic? If so, that would help explain your consumption, but even then, I’d expect it to be closer to nine or 10 litres per 100km, not 13.

    On that basis, I’d be giving the engine a once over in terms of how its fuel-injectors are working and checking things like fuel filters and pump pressure. A car that is not allowing its engine to warm up properly can also use more fuel than it should, because the computer, sensing that the engine is cooler than it should be, richens the fuel-air mixture to compensate. The cause of that can be something as simple as a dud thermostat or a cooling fan that is not switching off when it should.

    But the other potential piece of the puzzle could be related to your driving style. You claim that the engine never goes beyond 2500rpm, which could mean you are `lugging’ the engine; making it work too hard at too low a speed. Modern four-cylinder engines don’t mind a rev and, in fact, need to be revving beyond a certain speed to be in their happy, most fuel-efficient, zone.

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Disclaimer: You acknowledge and agree that all answers are provided as a general guide only and should not be relied upon as bespoke advice. Carsguide is not liable for the accuracy of any information provided in the answers.

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