Articles by Graham Smith

We often hook up the boat, trailer or caravan and head away for a well-deserved holiday. With the higher ambient temperatures in summer, the higher speeds we drive on highways when traveling, and the extra weight we carry or tow our tyres often work harder and hotter than they do at other times of the year. Before we do we should give some thought to what we're going to put our tyres through. Tyres are usually the last things we think of when we're planning our holidays, but they deserve better. It can't be stressed enough that we rely on our tyres to get us safely to our destination and back again. Our lives are literally depending on our tyres. Before you hook up the caravan and the kids pile into the back seat go around your car and check the tyres, and don't forget to check the spare in the boot. Start with the tread and check that there is plenty of tread to handle those sudden summer downpours that often occur. The tread should be at least 1.6 mm deep, if it's not, and the tread depth indicators moulded into the tread are visible, head straight to you nearest tyre retailer and replace them. Look for uneven wear across the tread and wear on the shoulders of the tyres. If they appear to be wearing unevenly have a wheel alignment done. Inspect the sidewalls for cuts, nicks and other damage, and check the tread for any nails, screws or other foreign objects embedded in the tyres. Inflate your tyres to the recommended pressure, and don't forget the spare, and remember to adjust the pressure for the extra weight being carried or towed.

The Holden VZ Commodore was the last hurrah for the generation that began with the VT in 1997 and served Holden well.By any measure the VT was an attractive car, but by 2004 when the VZ was launched it was looking a little shabby even with the best efforts of the Holden designers to refresh it with some fairly minor cosmetic changes.The major changes occurred under the skin in the form of a new V6 engine, new transmissions, new safety features, and a new six-cylinder sports model. After 16 years Holden decided it was time for an under-bonnet change and replaced the faithful old 3.8-litre OHV V6 with an all-new, all-alloy double overhead camshaft 3.6-litre V6 with the latest technology.There were two versions of the new Alloytec V6; one with 175 kW and 320 Nm that powered the mum-and-dad models, and another with 190 kW and 340 Nm for the new SV6 sports model. Both engines delivered more performance than the old V6 and Holden claimed they were also two percent more fuel efficient on average.There was a small performance improvement for the 5.7-litre V8, which continued in the SS until the Series II upgrade in 2006 when it was replaced by a new 6.0-litre engine. Along with the engines Holden also revealed new automatic and manual transmissions.The 190 kW V6 was linked to an all-new five-speed auto with paddle shifting on the steering wheel, the regular V6 was bolted to an upgraded four-speed auto without the paddle-shifting feature. There was also a new six-speed manual gearbox that was available with the 190 kW V6.The VZ range began with the Executive fleet model, and included the Acclaim and Calais, while there was now a sports model, the SV6, in addition to the V8-powered SS. Holden continued to offer two body styles, the sedan and wagon.IN THE SHOPNow up to seven years old the VZ is showing its age with odometer readings as high as 200,000 km. The message from that is that it needs to be approached with caution. The VZ was sturdily built and is generally proving to be quite durable if properly maintained, so look for a service record that shows what servicing has been done. Check for oil leaks around the engine and gearbox, inspect for coolant leaks, and examine the body for poor crash repairs.IN A CRASHThe Commodore's safety arsenal was boosted by the addition of Electronic Stability Program on some models, including the Acclaim. It was part of a larger package of safety systems that included ABS braking, Corner Brake Control, Electronic Brake Assist, Electronic Brakeforce Distribution, and traction control. ANCAP ticked four out of the five possible safety boxes.UNDER THE PUMPHolden worked hard to extract as much fuel efficiency out of the Commodore as possible, but there was no escaping the fact that it was a large and somewhat heavy car. The company claimed an average of 11.0-11.6 L/100 km for the V6 and 14. 0-14.5 L/100 km for the V8. The VZ is not the car for you if you are concerned about fuel economy. If that is your concern and you want a large car perhaps look at the dual-fuel version, which came from the factory with a quality IMPCO system.AT A GLANCEPrice new: $33,160-$50,090Engine: 3.6-litre petrol V6, 175 kW/320 Nm; 3.6-litre petrol V6, 190 kW/340 Nm; 3.6-litre dual-fuel V6, 175 kW/320 Nm; 5.7-litre petrol V8, 250 kW/470 Nm; 6.0-litre petrol V8, 260 kW/510 NmTransmission: 4-speed auto, 5-speed manual, 6-speed manual, RWDEconomy: 11.0 L/100 km (175 kW V6), 11.5 L/100 km (190 kW V6), 14.0 L/  100 km (V8)Body: 4-door sedan, 4-door wagonVariants: Executive, Equipe, Acclaim, Lumina, SV6, SV8, SSSafety: 4-star ANCAP.

While it gets a workout in the hot months it doesn't get worked as hard in the cold months of winter, sometimes it isn't used at all when the weather turns cold and rainy. It's not until the first hot days hit that we then realize our air- conditioning system isn't cooling us they way it should, that there is a something amiss with it. The air-conditioning system is often forgotten, a system we rely on to keep us cool, but one that we never think about when it comes to maintenance. It's worth getting the system serviced before summer really hits, so it's working at its best when the weather does warm-up. It's also important to remember that mechanics don't often check the air- conditioning system when carrying out routine maintenance on our cars; it's something we need to ask them to do at least once per year. . Key to the operation of the system is the level of refrigerant gas in the system. It needs to be checked and topped up if it's down. Most cars on average lose around 15 per cent of their gas per year. . The refrigerant gas is not only important in the operation of the system in keeping us cool; it also carries the oil to lubricate the compressor and keep it operating reliably. . If the refrigerant level is down on where it should be the mechanic should check for potential leaks, from the hoses, clamps and other fittings in the system. A leak test can identify problems needing to be fixed. Filters need to be checked and cleaned, or replaced as needed. . Adjust the drive pulleys and belts as needed. . Clean any debris that might have accumulated on the condenser. More next week.

Mazda has often followed a different path to its rivals.

Summer is a time of travel, when we hitch up the caravan or boat and head off to the hills, lake or beach in search of some well-earned rest and recuperation after a long hard year at work.Before we head off it's worth taking the time to check over the car to ensure it will survive the rigors of hot summer motoring. Start with the radiator, it's the vital component in the car's cooling system.Examine the radiator hoses and replace them if they appear perished, split or damaged in any way. Look for leaks around the radiator that could point to split, cracks and fractures in the radiator itself, and have repairs done as might be needed. Most modern cars are equipped with electric cooling fans that are temperature controlled, and only come in when the engine temperature climbs. Check that the fan is working as it should.Clean the surface of the radiator core, removing any debris that has accumulated on it during the winter. Check the level of coolant in the system. The level is checked on the overflow reservoir; refer to the owner's manual to see how it is done.Top up the coolant if the level down, and make sure you use the correct coolant as recommended in the owner's manual.More next week.

...than travelling in the traffic stream near a car that has lights particularly brake lights, that aren't working. How often do you see a car that has faulty lights? Often, I bet. Lights are things we use to see, be seen, or to signal our intention to do something. They are an important piece of safety equipment on our cars, important for our own safety, and important for the safety of others. But because we can't see them ourselves, we simply assume they're working and never bother to check them. Checking them is simple, and something we can include the kids in doing. Getting the kids to help us check the lights sets a good example for them, and should encourage them to check the lights on their car once they are old enough to drive. So, get behind the wheel and turn the ignition on, and them run through each lighting system. Turn each on in sequence and have your kids check to see if they are working. As each is confirmed to be working turn it off and turn on the next one. Check the parking lights and headlights, low and high beam, as well as the headlight flasher. While the headlights are on, check that the taillights are also illuminated. Check the turn signals, right and left, front and rear, and don't forget the side repeaters. Check the emergency flashers, front and rear, and make sure all are working. Finally, check the brake lights, all of them. If you can't get the kids to help you check the brake lights, find a reflective surface, a shop front window can be a good one to use, and reverse the car up to it and apply the brakes. You should be able to see the lights reflecting in the surface behind you. Also check the reversing lights. Replace the globes in any of the lights you find that aren't working.

When you've hit the mark with a new car, as Honda did with the Accord Euro in 2003, there's little reason to make major changes to it.So, when it came to renewing it in 2008 Honda chose an evolutionary approach rather than a radical one. The new Accord Euro was longer, wider with a wider track, and sat lower, which gave it a much more stable grasp on the road.A stiffer body and a new rear suspension helped make it more agile and responsive. Inside, it was roomy enough in the front, but lacked space for rear seat passengers who wanted to stretch out.One engine was offered, it was a 2.4-litre double overhead camshaft four-cylinder pumping out a useful 148 kW and 230 Nm, which was slightly more than was on tap in the previous model.Performance was, let's say, sufficient. It wasn't blindingly fast,but was smooth and unfussed with either the six-speed manual gearbox or five-speed automatic that were the available transmission choices. Three models were offered, the base model Euro, the Euro Luxury and the Euro Luxury Navi.All were well equipped, even the base model, which had cruise, auto air, 10-speaker CD sound, reach-and-rake steering adjustment, active head rests, power mirrors and windows, and cloth trim.Climb one step on the model ladder and you got the Luxury with sunroof, leather trim, heated seats, eight-way power seats, rain-sensing wipers, fog lights, and front and rear parking sensors. Step up further, to the Luxury Navi and you drove away with an Alpine navigation system, Bluetooth readiness and a reversing camera.IN THE SHOPThe Accord Euro is well built and to date is proving to be reliable in the field. There's a lack of complaint to Carsguide from owners confirming the car's reputation for reliability. Servicing is a must with Hondas; they don't appreciate being neglected in that area so ask to see a service record. Check also for evidence of a crash, particularly where the repairs haven't been up to scratch.IN A CRASHANCAP handed the Accord Euro four stars out of a possible five, but it was still well equipped with safety features with dual front   airbags, head airbags, side front airbags, ABS brakes and stability   control.UNDER THE PUMPThe claimed average of 8.9 L/100 km is quite good for its class and size, but the recommended 95-octane fuel requirement takes some of the gloss off.AT A GLANCEPrice new: $34,990 to $44,990Engine: 2.4-litre 4-cylinder petrol; 148 kW/230 NmTransmission: 6-speed manual; 5-speed auto, front-wheel driveEconomy: 8.9 L/100 kmBody: 4-door sedan Variants: Euro, Euro Luxury,Euro Luxury NaviSafety: 4-star ANCAP

There's no question that Volvo has a massive badge disadvantage to overcome with any new model it brings out.Years of flogging the safety horse to death have had their impact, such that the brand has lost its lustre in the eyes of anyone wanting something more than just a safe ride.Many buyers simply bypass Volvo dealers and don't bother to take a look at what the company has to offer and they miss out on some good cars as a result. The S40 was one of those cars. It was often dismissed as just another safe and sound box on wheels when it was a vast improvement on some of the bland models the company had produced before it. It had a distinctive look, a roomy cabin, was well built, and drove impressively.The S40 was a close family relative of the Ford Focus, which was a good start, but Volvo was given sufficient independence by Ford to produce its own car with its own distinctive character. That character starts with the looks, which reflect the family style of other models in the range with a distinctive grille and well defined shoulders. There's nothing offensive about it, it's clean and tidy from all angles. Inside, it has roomy accommodation for five adults, with plenty of head and legroom and lots of standard equipment.Beyond the cabin the boot is deep, if shallow, but is easy to load with a low loading lip. The base model and the SE have a 2.4-litre five-cylinder engine that delivers smooth performance with enough zip to satisfy most owners.The T5 is the one with the most performance. Its turbocharged 2.5-litre five-banger isn't a fire-breather as is sometimes the case with turbocharged engines; this one's got a low-pressure turbo that gives a sensible power boost that's useable. The result is plenty of low-down punch, but still with lots left for the top-end to power it along very nicely.IN THE SHOPThe S40 is well designed and built and that means a reliable run for the most part. There are no serious flaws that afflict it; the things that tend to go wrong are fairly minor and individual. Volvos tend to be well looked after by caring owners, which can make them a good used buy. Even so, it's important to check for a service record, cars that have been neglected are more prone to problems than ones that have had routine maintenance. Also check for evidence of crash damage that hasn't been properly repaired.IN A CRASHFive ANCAP stars are as good as you can get and the S40 gets the top tick from the crash tester. Front, side and head airbags head a long list of safety features that also includes ABS brakes, optimum brakeforce distribution and traction control.UNDER THE PUMPVolvo puts the fuel consumption of the S40 at 8.7 to 9.2 L/100 km depending on the transmission for the 2.4-litre. The turbo 2.5-litre used a little more on average at 9.2 L/100 km, which was in line with what road testers found at the time.AT A GLANCEPrice new: $47,950 to $59,950 Engine: 2.4-litre 5-cylinder petrol; 125 kW/230 Nm 2.5-litre 5-cylinder turbocharged; 162 kW/320 Nm Transmission: 5-speed auto, 5-speed manual (SE), 6-speed manual (T5); front-wheel drive Economy: 8.7 L/100 km to 9.2 L/100 km Body: 4-door sedan Variants: Base, SE, T5 Safety: 5-star ANCAP

Quality, condition and service history are the most important things to consider when choosing a cheaper car for the young motorist.Buy the best car you can afford, in the best condition, with a solid service history and you shouldn't go wrong.Most young drivers, or their parents, usually have a limited amount of money to spend, which necessitates looking at older models to find the ones that fit. Buying a quality older car almost certainly means buying one from a Japanese carmaker, such as the CE Mitsubishi Lancer.Mitsubishi launched the CE Lancer in 1996 and it ran until 2004. Prices now range around $1500 for the earliest examples to as much as $7000 for the last ones. It's available in practical sedan and wagon body styles, and a coupe, which is likely to be the most appealing to young drivers.Two four-cylinder single overhead camshaft engines were offered. One was a 1.5-litre, the other a larger 1.8-litre unit, both of which offered a combination of solid performance and good fuel economy. The GLi was the entry model and came in sedan and coupe form.It came standard with power steering, cloth trim, full wheel trims, and a fairly basic two-speaker sound system. For more there was the GLXi sedan and wagon that came with central locking, power mirrors and four-speaker sound.IN THE SHOPThe Lancer has an enviable reputation for reliability, but it depends heavily on being well serviced. Walk away from any car that hasn't been properly maintained, even if it appears a cheap buy. Mechanics who regularly work on them say the Lancer gives little trouble, although they stress that it's important to change the cam-timing belt as per Mitsubishi's recommendation of 90,000 km.Older cars tend to get knocked about by owners who couldn't care less, so look closely for panel damage that has been poorly repaired. Under the bonnet look for oil leaks around the engine and gearbox.IN A CRASHGenerally, the Lancer is a strong little car that stands up well in crash testing, making it a safe choice for young drivers. Importantly, Mitsubishi added dual front airbags in 2001, which makes that a key consideration when shopping. ANCAP rated the dual airbag model at 3 stars.UNDER THE PUMPMitsubishi claimed the Lancer averaged around 6.5 L/100 km in their lab tests, which makes it an economical little car. It took 91-octane unleaded fuel and Mitsubishi gave E10 ethanol blend fuel a tick.AT A GLANCEPrice new: $20,730 to $26,950Engine: 1.5-litre 4-cylinder; 69 kW/126 Nm 1.8-litre 4-cylinder; 86 kW/161 NmTransmission: 5-speed manual, 4-speed auto, front-wheel driveEconomy: 6.5 L/100 km Body: 4-door sedan, 4-door wagon, 2-door coupeVariants: GLi, GLXi Safety: 3-star ANCAP

Some say it's no longer needed, others say it's a must. As is usually the case with such subjects the answer lies somewhere in between. It's not so long ago that it was necessary to carefully run-in a new engine, to ignore it was to risk major engine damage. Today, with the improvements in the materials used in engines and the oils that keep it lubricated it's not needed as such.While it's no longer necessary to carry out a strict run-in routine as once was the case it is still necessary be careful not to abuse the engine during the first 1000 km or so.By taking care not to over-  stress the engine early in its life you are likely to extend the life of the engine, and get the most out of it in terms of performance and fuel economy.Some steps you can take to ensure your engine is run-in:. Don't rev the engine too high.. Try to keep the engine speed between 2000 rpm and 4000 rpm.. Don't sit on a steady speed for too long, vary it.. Don't let the engine sit idling for more than a couple of minutes at a time.. Don't tow a trailer.