Articles by Graham Smith

Graham Smith
Contributing Journalist

With a passion for cars dating back to his childhood and having a qualification in mechanical engineering, Graham couldn’t believe his good fortune when he was offered a job in the Engineering Department at General Motors-Holden’s in the late-1960s when the Kingswood was king and Toyota was an upstart newcomer. It was a dream come true.

Over the next 20 years Graham worked in a range of test and development roles within GMH’s Experimental Engineering Department, at the Lang Lang Proving Ground, and the Engine Development Group where he predominantly worked on the six-cylinder and V8 engines.

If working for Holden wasn’t exciting enough he also spent two years studying General Motors Institute in America, with work stints with the Chassis Engineering section at Pontiac, and later took up the post of Holden’s liaison engineer at Opel in Germany.

But the lure of working in the media saw him become a fulltime motorsport reporter and photographer in the late-1980s following the Grand Prix trail around the world and covering major world motor racing events from bases first in Germany and then London.

After returning home to Australia in the late-1980s Graham worked on numerous motoring magazines and newspapers writing about new and used cars, and issues concerning car owners. These days, Graham is CarsGuide's longest standing contributor.

How to take care of your LPG system
By Graham Smith · 26 Jan 2012
In fact, you must regularly use it to keep the petrol system in tip-top shape for when you need it. Most modern dual-fuel systems actually use petrol when the engine is started. Some use a small amount of petrol to assist rapid and smooth starting.  Others start on petrol before automatically switching over to LPG after a set time, while others start on petrol and switch over the LPG once a number of set parameters, such as engine temperature, are met. For that reason it's important that you don't to forget put some petrol in the petrol tank so you don't inadvertently run out and find yourself stranded with a car that won't start. In other instances, such as with a high performance car, systems will automatically switch from LPG to petrol to ensure the fuel flow is sufficient for the engine's needs at high engines speeds when the LPG system can't keep up. Because the engine still runs some of the time on petrol it is important to keep the fuel as fresh as possible to ensure smooth and troublefree starting and running.  It is also important to regularly run the engine on petrol to keep the fuel system components primed and in good working condition. Our LPG experts say you should run at least 20 litres of petrol through the system every month. In same cases the petrol fuel pump, which is located in the petrol tank, runs even when the engine is running on LPG. To prevent the petrol pump from being damaged it is recommended that the petrol tank be at least a quarter full at all times.
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Tyre speed ratings What do they mean?
By Graham Smith · 19 Jan 2012
It's not necessarily the case, although most high performance tyres do exhibit better road handling characteristics.The 'speed rating' of a tyre shown on the tyre sidewall is the speed it can withstand for a period of time without disintegrating. It is measured by running the tyre, under load, against a large drum.To achieve a speed rating the tyre is run at different speeds for periods of time according to an accepted international standard.Common speed ratings are:S   180 km/hT   190 km/hU   200 km/hH   210 km/hV   240 km/hW  (ZR) 270 km/hY   (ZR) 300 km/hZR   Above 240 km/hCarmakers are required to fit tyres that can match a car's top speed, but when owners come to fit replacement tyres to their car they have to be minimum of S rated, which is 180 km/h.The speed rating is moulded into the sidewall of all tyres along with the size and load rating.
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Used Mazda 3 review: 2009-2010
By Graham Smith · 13 Jan 2012
The signs of bigger things to come were there early in 2008 when the Mazda 3 knocked Holden's Commodore off its long held lofty perch atop the local car market.What had been unimaginable only a few years earlier when Mazda was struggling against a tide of disinterest and adverse exchange rates to sell its cars had come to be.The Ford off-shoot was top of the pops. Some dismissed it as a one-off never to be repeated, but here we are a couple of years later and Mazda can boast it had the most popular car of 2011.Mazda's success reflects the seismic shift in the market away from large cars to smaller ones. It's reasonable to think that shift will be reflected in the used car market, and the Mazda3 could well reflect is new car success in the used car arena.The BL arrived in 2009 with much of the job done by its predecessor; it only had to build on what had been done and that's what it did. It wasn't revolutionary; rather it was an evolution of the BK model it followed.A new body, improved cabin, together with worthwhile engine, transmission and suspension tweaks added to its appeal. If you compared the BL with the old BK you would notice the bigger smile on the front of the new model, but apart from that recognisable difference it was pretty much the same as the older car in the looks department.Two body styles were offered; a sedan for oldies and a hatch for youngies. The sedan's main criticism was its boot, which was on the small side with a highish loading lip; the downside to the hatch was the level of road noise. Inside, the dash was revised; A new display screen and audio controls on the steering wheel, again tweaks to improve on what was already a success.Like it was with the previous model, Mazda's engine range was made up of two petrol engines and a diesel. The base engine was a 2.0-litre four in the Neo and Maxx models; there was a larger, sportier 2.5- litre four in the SP25, and there was the choice of a 2.2-litre turbo- diesel.UNDER THE BONNETthe petrol engines boasted a little more power and torque, and better fuel economy. On the road the chassis was agile and responsive and fun to drive. The ride was on the firm side, but not to the point of being uncomfortable.IN THE SHOPThe Mazda3 has been a solid performer since its introduction and the BL seems to be following the pattern. A lack of complaints at CarsGuide HQ suggests the top-selling small car is doing the business. Check for a service record to make sure nothing has been neglected, and inspect bodywork for repairs that indicate a previous crash repair.UNDER THE PUMPThe base engine is quite a thrifty little unit delivering decent economy at under 8 L/100 km in manual form; the auto is a little thirstier, but still an economical choice. Clearly the SP25, with its sporty bent and larger 2.5-litre engine uses more fuel, but even then the Mazda claim is a quite reasonable 8.6 L/10 km, which was borne out when tested by CarsGuide. The most economical engine choice is the diesel, which it is claimed will deliver 5.7 L/100 km.IN A CRASHThe BL Mazda3 won a five-star tick from ANCAP, that's as good as it can get under the current regime. With front, side and head airbags, ABS brakes with emergency brake assist, traction and stability control it's got the lot when it comes to safety.AT A GLANCEPrice new: $21,990 to $30,690Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cylinder petrol; 2.5-litre 4-cylinder petrol; 2.2- litre 4-cylinder turbo-dieselTransmission: 5-speed auto, 6-speed manual, front-wheel driveEconomy: 7.9 L/100 km (2.0P), 8.6 L/100 km (2.5P), 5.7 L/100 km (2.2TD)Body: 5-door hatch, 4-door sedanVariants: Neo, Maxx, Maxx Sport, SP25, MZR-CDSafety: 5-star ANCAP.VERDICTSubtle rework of an already good car makes a good used buy 4 stars
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Nitrogen Yes or No
By Graham Smith · 12 Jan 2012
Generally we've argued against its use, saying that the benefits for the normal motorist are minimal and can't be justified when you consider the cost and availability of the gas. Air is mostly made up of nitrogen and oxygen, which is fine for normal use, but oxygen does permeate through the rubber sidewall of the tyre causing a slight loss of pressure over time. Nitrogen also permeates through the sidewall, but at a 30 per cent slower rate. The pressure loss is less with nitrogen, but regular pressure checks are still required. When you do need to re-inflate your tyres to adjust for the pressure loss you have to find an outlet with nitrogen. The proponents of nitrogen also argue that it's a more stable gas and delivers more predictable tyre performance. While that's true, it's really only beneficial in extreme conditions like motor racing where higher tyre temperatures are generated. There's virtually no benefit for the ordinary motorist. Moisture inside the tyre's air chamber can cause the pressure to build up as the tyre temperature climbs, but nitrogen acts like a dry gas and doesn't support moisture, so doesn't have the same pressure increase. In extreme conditions, like motor racing where higher temperatures are generated, this can affect a car's handling, but at the temperatures generated in normal driving on the road the benefits are almost non-existent. Some tyre outlets promote the use of nitrogen, but charge a fee, which can amount to as much as $25 for a set of five tyres.
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Used Kia Rondo review: 2008-2009
By Graham Smith · 29 Dec 2011
Choosing the right vehicle to suit your growing family's needs is always difficult, particularly because the car that makes the most sense is the one you least want to drive.Once, family choices were limited to a sedan and wagon, mostly of the big Holden, Ford variety, but today there's a myriad choices that can have you scratching your head trying to decide.Most families today opt for a big four-wheel drive wagon or an SUV, but they really aren't the best bet for a family that extends beyond mum, dad and a couple of kids.For larger families there's no question that the best choice is a people-mover. Even then there's a range of makes and models to choose from and you have to decide if a big model, like the Kia Grand Carnival, is needed or if you can get away with a compact model, such as the Kia Rondo.Kia claimed the Rondo was unique in the market, a new concept it trumpeted, but was it really so new?Not really, Holden beat it to the punch some years ago with the Zafira and if you looked a little further into the past you'd find the Daihatsu Pyzar.Like the Zafira the Rondo was based on a medium-sized passenger car platform, in Kia's case the Magentis.It was a four-door wagon with seven seats that came in three models, the base LX, the EX and range-topping EX-L. The LX came with a five-speed manual or an optional four-speed automatic if you were prepared to part with an extra $2000. It was standard with air-conditioning, 15-inch steel wheels, power mirrors and windows.In the middle of the range the EX also had steering wheel-mounted audio controls, roof rails, fog lamps, 17-inch alloys, upgraded cloth seats and a four-speed automatic was standard. The range-topping EX-L boasted a sunroof, leather trim, and climate control air-conditioning.Although the Rondo was sold as a people-mover it wasn't a huge mothership like some peoplemovers, it was little longer than a regular hatchback, which made it easier to handle in the rough and tumble of the school run.Despite its compact dimensions it was deceptively large inside, with the second and third rows of seats able to be slid back and forth to accommodate all passengers relatively comfortably. The only downside is that once all passengers are in and comfortable there isn't much room left to carry anything behind the third seat.Rondo shared its engines and gearboxes with the Magentis, and the extra kaygees of a full load tends to dull the performance of the 2.0-  litre four-cylinder engine under the bonnet, and the four-speed auto, the choice of most Rondo owners, was also a limitation.IN THE SHOP Like Hyundai before it Kia was once looked upon as a cheap-and-cheerful model from Korea and not to be taken too seriously by all but the cash-strapped among us. That's changed, and how, with the new Rio recently voted Carsguide Car of the Year, and deservedly so.Kia has got its act together and its cars are no longer derided for being unreliable and lacking in durability. Carsguide gets very few complaints about the Rondo, which suggests there's little to be concerned about when shopping for a used example.Even better, the 5-year, unlimited kilometre warranty is still in effect. To cash in the warranty the vehicle must have been serviced by the book, so it's important to make sure the required servicing has been done. Also check for the usual signs of dodgy crash repairs, mismatching paint, drooping doors, wobbly panel gaps.IN A CRASH Rondo scrubs up quite well on the safety front, with four ticks from ANCAP, based on front airbags across all models, and side airbags on the EX and EX-L. All models, including the base LX, had ABS braking and stability control.AT A GLANCEPrice new: $26,990-$31,990 Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cylinder petrol; 106 kW/189 NmTransmission: 5-speed manual, 4-speed autoEconomy: 8.4-8.6 L/100 kmBody: 4-door wagonVariants: LX, EX, EX-L Safety: 4-star ANCAP
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Used Alfa Romeo 159 review: 2006-2009
By Graham Smith · 16 Dec 2011
Few badges polarize opinions like Alfa Romeo; it's one of those brands you either love or loathe, either way it's usually with a passion. Most people acknowledge that Alfas look great and deliver an engaging drive experience like few others, but just as many would say they wouldn't buy one because of the brand's reputation for poor quality and unreliability. It's fair to say that the company has worked hard to lift its game in recent times to put that reputation behind them, but despite that there remains a lingering doubt about its success at eradicating the things that can make its cars frustrating to own. The mid-sized 159 arrived in 2006 with the promise that the woes of the past were indeed in the past. Like all Alfas it looked like sex on wheels. Few carmakers produce more attractive cars than Alfa and the 159 was no exception with its timeless athletic lines. Buyers could choose between a four-door sedan and a wagon, there was a choice of two diesels and two petrol engines, and front-wheel drive and all-wheel drive. The 159 is a driver's car, which is obvious when you slide into the body-hugging driver's seat and survey the dash and controls. Like the exterior, the cabin is also a design delight, with instruments nicely placed and easily read, and the controls spread around in a way that is logical and makes them easy to use. The front seats, however, won't be for everyone. While supportive, their heavily contoured shape will suit some bodies, but not others. While seated behind the wheel the limited visibility becomes clear. The high tail and thick pillars make vision from the driver's seat an issue, one that drivers need to come to terms with. IN THE SHOPRusted on Alfa owners are willing to accept things in their cars that others simply wouldn't tolerate. Committed owners are prepared to write them off as 'character', others say they are character building. Anyone not familiar with Alfas should approach the 159 with caution to make sure they aren't left driving a car they can't stand. But don't be deterred, as the 159 is generally reliable with no major flaws. Those things that detract from its appeal are a result of variable build quality. Have an Alfa specialist check over any potential purchase, they will be familiar with the issues that can affect a 159. Sloppy build quality can result in rattles and squeaks in the body and trim that can be hard to find and eliminate. They can also be expensive to fix. Also check over the interior trim, looking for bits and pieces that are poised to fall off. On the road the diesel engine can be noisy, not a problem, just something you need to accept and live with. The ride can be firm, too firm for some, so make sure you're happy to live with that day to day. Like all modern cars servicing is crucial, so look for a service record to confirm that all maintenance has been done according to the book, and preferably done by an experienced Alfa mechanic.IN A CRASHA 5-star tick of approval from ANCAP says it all, the 159 is a safe car. It comes with front, side and head airbags along with ABS braking, traction control and stability control.UNDER THE PUMPWith a choice of diesel and petrol engines 159 buyers have plenty to choose from. The diesels are the best pump performers, both getting around 7.0 L/100 km, while the V6 is the thirstiest of the bunch at more than 11 L/100 km.AT A GLANCE Price new: $55,990 to $77,990Engine: 2.2-litre 4-cylinder petrol, 2.0-litre 4-cylinder turbodiesel, 2.4-litre 5-cylinder turbodiesel, 3.2-litre V6 petrol Power/torque: 136 kW/230 Nm (2.2), 110 kW/320 Nm (2.0TD), 147 kW/400 Nm (2.4TD), 191 kW/322 Nm (V6)Transmission: 6-speed manual, 6-speed auto, front-wheel drive, all-wheel drive.Economy: 6.8 L/100 km (2.4TD), 7.1 L/100 km (2.0 TD), 9.4 L/100 km (2.2), 11.5 L/100 km (V6) Body: 4-door sedan, 4-door wagonVariants: Base, TiSafety: 5-star ANCAP
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How to align your headlights
By Graham Smith · 16 Dec 2011
Or why those people driving towards you are flashing their lights at you? It's simple; your headlights probably need adjusting. We rarely think about the alignment of our headlights, until we're driving down a dark country road and seeing more of the scenery than the road ahead. If that's not enough to alert us to a problem the flashing lights of other motorists should do the trick. The headlights on our cars should be checked for correct alignment at least once a year, and certainly checked before we head off on a long trip that's probably going to include some night driving.  There's nothing more annoying, and tiring, than staring into the darkness trying to make out what's up ahead. Headlights can shift out of alignment for any number of reasons. They could be knocked out of alignment, the adjustment screws could be moved while the headlights are being replaced, but most likely misalignment will occur because of a change in attitude of the car, through extra load in the boot, or a trailer or caravan on the back. The headlights on some cars are adjusted automatically to the load being carried, others have a switch on the dash the driver can use to alter the setting according to load, others need to be adjusted manually using screws on the headlights themselves. Refer to your car's owner's manual to find out how to adjust the headlights. The owner's manual often also has a guide you can use to determine the correct settings for the number of passengers being carried, the load in the boot, and anything attached to the rear.
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Used Audi A4 review: 2008-2009
By Graham Smith · 12 Dec 2011
If you want to succeed in the prestige car business in this country you need to field a competitive mid-sized model.BMW gets by on the back of its 3-Series, 'Benz depends on its C-Class, and Audi its A4, so when it comes time to renew these models there's an understandable level of nervousness among executives of the respective companies.It was the turn of the Audi execs to feel the heat when the company revealed its new A4 in 2008. The company had established the credibility of the A4 over previous generations, but knew the on-going success of the brand depended heavily on the eighth generation model. The previous generation fell somewhere between the BMW and 'Benz. It didn't handle as well as the 3-Series and wasn't as comfy as the C-Class, but the B8 A4 was improved on most fronts, which was needed to keep pace with the competition.Unlike its rivals the Audi is predominantly front-wheel drive with some premium four-wheel drive models. There was quite a selection of petrol and diesel engines, ranging from a 1.8-litre direct injection turbo four boasting 118 kW and 250 Nm to a 3.2-litre V6 petrol with 195kW and 330Nm powering the range-  topping four-wheel driver.The base four came standard with a six-speed manual; the diesels were hooked up to a CVT, and the 3.2 V6 to a dual-clutch auto. With its engine moved back a little and the steering rack shunted forward the A4's handling was improved, although it was still not quite in the 3-Series league.The ride was also found to be a little too hard for the class, especially when stacked up against the C-Class. Inside, the cabin was well fitted out and nicely refined, with little road or wind noise to upset the inner peace. The seats were comfortable and supportive, and there was plenty of head and legroom for those in the front and the back.As befits a car in it class the A4 came with a decent list of gear, like climate-control air, auto headlights and wipers, leather trim, fog lights, alloy wheels, 6.5-inch colour info screen and a split-  fold rear seat.IN THE SHOPThe eighth gen A4 is relatively new to the market, so there's little to report in the way of niggles or serious flaws. Right now it's important to find a car that has been well cared for and serviced according to the book.Most on sale will be fresh out of a lease so should have been maintained, but check for a service record anyway. Oil changes are important with modern engines so make sure the oil and filter have been replaced at the correct intervals.VW and Audi engines tend to consume a little oil, which makes it important to keep an eye on the oil level at regular intervals. The oil usage is minor and not an issue, but it has caught some people out before when they never bother to lift the bonnet. Make the usual checks for panel damage, that's poor panel alignment and mismatched paint etc.Overall the A4 is a sound vehicle and not one to give serious trouble.IN A CRASHFive stars says it all, there's no higher rating available. To get the top tick of approval the A4 had eight airbags, ABS brakes, traction control and stability control.UNDER THE PUMPThe choice of petrol and diesel engines gives buyers plenty of choice when it comes to fuel consumption. The best of the bunch is the 2.0-litre turbo-diesel at 5.8 L./100 km; the thirstiest is the 3.2-litre V6 that Audi claimed would do 9.0 L/  100 km. All petrol engines required 95-octane premium unleaded fuel.AT A GLANCEPrice new: $50,900 to $88,500Engine: 1.8-litre turbocharged 4-cylinder petrol, 118 kW/250 Nm; 2.0-litre 4-cylinder turbodiesel, 105 kW/320 Nm; 2.7-litre V6 turbodiesel, 140 kW/400 Nm; 3.2-litre V6, 195 kW/330 NmTransmission: 6-speed manual, 8-speed auto, 6-speed auto. FWD and AWDEconomy: 7.2 L/100 km (1.8 TFSI), 5.8 L/100 km (2.0 TDI), 6.9 (2.7 TDI), 9.0 L./100 km (3.2 V6 Q), 7.4 L/100 km (2.0 TDI Q), 6.9 L/100 km (3.0 TDI Q)Body: 4-door sedan, 4-door wagonVariants: 1.8TFSI, 2.0TDI, 2.7TDI, 3.2-litre FSI Quattro, 2.0 TDI Quattro, 3.0 TDI QuattroSafety: 5-star ANCAP.Not as sporty as the 3-Series, not as comfortable as the C-Class, the A4 fits somewhere in between. Worthy of a look.
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The good oil on surviving summer
By Graham Smith · 09 Dec 2011
The fact is that most of us do a lot of driving during the summer months, much of it loaded down with gear in the boot or a trailer, boat or caravan hooked on the back. Your engine works harder and hotter under these conditions. Most carmakers suggest you change your oil every 10,000 km or so, but you should check your owner's manual to find out what is recommended for your car. We've covered before how to check your engine oil, it's quite simple and everyone should be able to do it. The possible damage that could be caused to your engine by not checking its oil level and condition is enough to ruin your annual holiday. Start by parking your car on level ground and running the engine for a few minutes to warm it up. Turn the engine off before actually checking the oil. Check your car's owners manual to find out where the engine oil dipstick is located, remove it and wipe it clean before re-inserting it in its tube and pushing it home. Remove it again and check the level against the marks on the dipstick, which indicate a low level and a full level. The oil level should normally be somewhere between the two marks. If the oil is low you can add oil to bring it up to the full level, or change it if it hasn't been changed in a while. The oil should look brownish yellow and clean on the dipstick, if it's a dark colour, verging on black, it's likely to be contaminated with dirt and grime, and probably time it was changed. Don't forget the oil filter; change it at the same time as you change the oil.
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Used Mitsubishi Challenger review: 2009-2010
By Graham Smith · 08 Dec 2011
Most SUV buyers simply want a wagon to cart the kids to school and pick up the shopping at the supermarket, rarely do they want to head off the beaten track, but Mitsubishi reckoned there were enough SUV owners who did to produce a wagon that was capable offroad.The new PB Challenger introduced in 2009 was just such a vehicle and it stood apart from the regular SUV pretenders. Sitting between the Outlander soft-roader and the Pajero four-wheel drive the Challenger offered an attractive blend of town manners and real bush capability.While the Challenger sat on a new platform it shared many components with the Triton ute, such as the front chassis and suspension, turbo - diesel engine, transmission, four-wheel drive system and rear axle. The four-wheel drive system that gives it its off-road capability boasts a central diff, dual range, and a lockable rear diff.Its offroad ability is enhanced by its high ground clearance and good, approach, departure and ramp angles. There was just one engine on offer and that was a 2.5-litre common - rail turbo - diesel engine that delivered plenty of low-down grunt to cope with the tough going without being out of its comfort zone around town.Two transmissions were available, a five-speed manual and a five - speed auto, the latter with manual shifting. Two models were offered, the entry level LS that came with the manual gearbox and five seats, and the five-seater XLS that had the automatic transmission. The LS could be optioned up with the auto, and both models could be upgraded to seven seats at extra cost.The XLS was the model with all the fruit with leather trim, satnav, reversing camera, parking sensors, privacy glass, headlight washers, Bluetooth, and upgraded sound. Inside, there is good room all round for all occupants who sit on comfortable seats.When specified the third row of seats has a 50/50 split/fold function and there's still room for a decent amount of luggage behind the third row. Access to the rear is through a lift-up tailgate rather than a swing out door, handier when you're towing, and the spare wheel is located underneath.IN THE SHOPThe Challenger is a solid unit with pretty decent build quality that is giving little trouble in the field. There are no serious flaws from the factory, so focus on issues that have resulted from its use. In particular pay close attention to the exterior and underbody for signs of offroad use. Mitsubishi was keen to point out that the Challenger would cope with being beaten around the bush, and some owners may well have taken them up on the challenge.Look for bent fittings and appendages underneath, exhaust hangers, suspension mountings etc. Also look for anything that might indicate water entry into vitals located underneath. On the outside look for scratches, dents and bumps from having bounced off the scenery.Continue shopping should you suspect a car has been used offroad. Check for a service record showing oil changes.IN A CRASHFour stars out of a possible five isn't a bad result, particularly given the Challenger sits on a ladder frame chassis, which isn't as crash friendly as a unitary body like most SUVs have. But it's got a raft of airbags, front and side, as well as the now expected ABS braking and anti-skid electronics.UNDER THE PUMPThe turbo-diesel engine ensures the Challenger delivers decent fuel mileage, with the manual coming in at 8.3 L/100 km and the auto at 9.8 L/100 km according to Mitsubishi's claims.MITSUBISHI CHALLENGER - 2009-2010Price new: $44,490 to $58,590 Engine: 2.5-litre 4-cylinder turbo-diesel, 131 kW/350 NmTransmission: 5-speed auto, five-speed manual, 4WDEconomy: 8.3-9.8 L/100 kmBody: 4-door wagonVariants: LS, XLS Safety: 4-star ANCAP
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