The Nissan Pulsar was one of Australia's favourite cars during its heyday through the 1990s, and was even manufactured locally between 1983-93. Australia first saw the Pulsar nameplate attached to the N10 model in 1980 during that awkward phase where Nissan products wore Nissan and Datsun badges at the same time. The N12 generation that replaced it in 1982 started as a Japanese import, but was produced locally from 1983. The 1987 N13 boosted its Australian content by using a Holden-produced engine shared with the Camira, before the 1991 N14 reverted to Nissan mechanicals. The N14 - which included the rally-developed GTI-R that only came to Australia as a grey import - reverted to Japanese manufacture from 1993, which continued with the N15 that arrived in 1995. The 2000 N16 saw hatchback versions sourced from the UK, and both were replaced by the Tiida in 2006. The Pulsar name returned in 2013 with the B17, but sales trickled to halt in 2017 due to competition from the Toyota Corolla and Mazda 3, along with our growing preference for SUVs.
Nissan Pulsar Australia
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Nissan Pulsar Reviews
Used Nissan Pulsar review: 2012-2017
Nissan Pulsar 2015 review
Nissan Pulsar SSS sedan vs Mazda 3 SP25 hatch
Used Nissan Pulsar review: 2013-2014
Nissan Pulsar ST vs Mazda 3 Neo
Nissan Pulsar ST-S vs Holden Cruze SRI
Nissan Pulsar SSS 2013 review
Nissan Pulsar v Ford Focus v Hyundai i30 v Holden Cruze 2013
Nissan Pulsar SSS manual 2013 review
Nissan Pulsar 2013 review
Nissan Pulsar Ti auto 2013 review: snapshot
Kia Cerato S vs Nissan Pulsar ST
Nissan Pulsar Q&As
Check out real-world situations relating to the Nissan Pulsar here, particularly what our experts have to say about them.
Why is my car using too much fuel and stalling?
Modern engines rely on a raft of sensors to inform the computer of what’s going on under the bonnet and what needs to be adjusted to keep the thing running smoothly and efficiently. A car that is using too much fuel and stalling could be having a problem with the sensor that tells the on-board computer that the engine is up to operating temperature. A cold engine needs more fuel to run properly so, if the sensor is telling the computer that the engine is still cold, the computer will continue to inject extra fuel into it. Of course, if the engine is up to temperature (regardless of what the sensor says) that extra fuel will show up as increased fuel consumption and could easily make the engine stall or run roughly.
However, that’s just one possibility and with the dozens of sensors dotted around a modern engine, the best advice is to have the car electronically scanned to see what fault codes are thrown up. The good news is that these sensors are usually inexpensive to replace and should return things to spot on pretty much immediately. Other suspects would be oxygen sensors and maybe even the stepper motor which controls the idle speed.Show more
Why don't the gears shift in my 1996 Nissan Pulsar?
If the gearbox won’t shift gears, then the vehicle won’t be able to accelerate any further once the engine has reached its maximum speed in the gear in which it’s stuck. That’s probably (I’m guessing) why the car feels like it won’t go any faster.
There are any number of reasons for an automatic gearbox to remain in one gear and refuse to shift. They start with low transmission fluid and go all the way up to a major internal failure or even a computer-related problem. There’s no real way to diagnose these possibilities remotely, so you really need to get the vehicle to somebody who specialises in automatic transmissions and get them to take a close look and diagnose the problem.
If it’s a major problem with the gearbox, your decision then becomes one of whether the vehicle itself is in good enough condition to warrant spending the money. A major job such as a new transmission and the labour to fit it could easily wind up costing more than the car is worth. Sometimes you’re better off scrapping the vehicle, cutting your losses and moving on to something newer and safer.Show more
Why does the gear stick randomly go into reverse in my 2013 Nissan Pulsar?
Changing a clutch in any car is a big job and can easily cost the sort of money you’ve been quoted. And when that car is a front-wheel-drive vehicle, there are a lot of things to remove (like the driveshafts) before the gearbox can be removed and the new clutch fitted.
While I agree that the symptoms you’re reporting do sound like a worn out clutch, I’d like to know what else the mechanic thinks will be wrong. He or she may, for example, be budgeting for the removal and machining of the flywheel as part of the clutch replacement, That can easily add a couple of hundred to the bill. Also, where is the mechanic sourcing the new clutch? You may have found a replacement kit online for the $500 you’re quoting, but is it a quality part from a reputable brand or a no-name piece of rubbish from an internet clearing house?Show more
Nissan Pulsar 2005: Why is there a banging sound when I start the car?
If the noise sounds like a dull thud or knock from deep within the engine, then I have bad news. Something inside the engine is probably trying to get out. And if it does, the engine will be instantly turned to junk. The worse news is that it probably already is (junk) even though it’s still running, because the damage has already been done. From the sound of things, your engine is perhaps only a few seconds away from exploding expensively.
Noises like this are usually caused by wear in the bearings – typically the con-rod bearings – and while they can be fixed if you do so before the engine grenades, it will always be an expensive job. In fact, it would likely cost more than the actual value of a 2005 Pulsar itself.
The best advice, then, is to let a mechanic have a listen to see if it’s as bad as you’ve described. From there, I reckon a second-hand engine form a wrecked Pulsar would be your best bet if you’re determined to keep the car.Show more
Nissan Pulsar Models Price and Specs
The price range for the Nissan Pulsar varies based on the trim level you choose. Starting at $9,600 and going to $21,230 for the latest year the model was manufactured. The model range is available in the following body types starting from the engine/transmission specs shown below.
|Year||Body Type||Specs||Price from||Price to|
|2018||Sedan||1.8L, ULP, 6 SP MAN||$9,600||$21,120|
|2018||Hatchback||1.8L, ULP, 6 SP MAN||$10,600||$21,230|
|2017||Sedan||1.8L, ULP, 6 SP MAN||$9,000||$19,800|
|2017||Hatchback||1.8L, ULP, CVT AUTO||$9,700||$19,800|
|2016||Sedan||1.8L, ULP, 6 SP MAN||$7,900||$17,820|
|2016||Hatchback||1.8L, ULP, CVT AUTO||$8,800||$18,040|
|2015||Hatchback||1.8L, ULP, 6 SP MAN||$6,600||$21,340|
|2015||Sedan||1.8L, ULP, 6 SP MAN||$7,000||$15,840|
|2014||Hatchback||1.8L, ULP, 6 SP MAN||$5,800||$18,810|
|2014||Sedan||1.8L, ULP, 6 SP MAN||$6,200||$13,860|