Nissan Reviews

This can be a bit of a fiddly job and requires you to disassemble the inner door trim to get at the workings within. The problem itself is usually a case of either the glass having delaminated form the metal track it rides it, or the winding mechanism itself has broken or rusted through or structurally failed in some other way.

Once you’ve removed the inner door panel and any protective sheeting under it, you should be able to see what’s failed or fallen off. You’ll need a good torch and perhaps even a mirror to see what’s going on in there as access can be tight.

If it’s a simple case of the glass having jumped out of its metal track, you may be able to refasten it with the correct adhesive. Often, though, it’s simpler and easier to find a replacement glass and track unit at a parts recycler (which we used to call a wrecking yard). If something else has failed, you may need to replace a whole lot more in terms of components, but until you can see what’s what, you won’t know for sure.

The other advice is to not try to move the window via the power window switch. Depending on where the glass is sitting, you may find the winding mechanism will bear on the glass where it shouldn’t and smash the pane or bend something important.

This was a long running model for Nissan (in fact, two models sold concurrently with the Navara badge, actually) so there were a few different engine options in the 2012 version. So here’s how it pans out:

If your Navara is the D22 version, it will be fitted with a version of the 2.5-litre turbo-diesel engine. As such, it will have 98kW of power and 304Nm of torque. If you have the D40 variant of the Navara, it, too, could be fitted with a 2.5-litre turbo-diesel, but in this case, it’s tuned for more performance and has 128kW and 403Nm.

But, there was also the option of a three-litre V6 turbo-diesel which had 170kW and 550Nm, as well as a petrol V6 measuring four litres and producing 198kW and 385Nm.

You might find that at high throttle inputs, the car’s computer is switching the fan on in anticipation of higher temperatures. Or, perhaps it’s the air-conditioning fan that is switching itself on to keep things cool, because you’re using lots of throttle at that moment. It could simply be that the fan itself is noisier when you spin it harder (in line with engine revs) and that’s what you’re hearing in the cabin.

If in doubt, make a note of this with the service department when the car gets its first service. Perhaps it’s not a fan at all, and the noise is the result of a poorly adjusted drive belt or a leak somewhere in the air-intake or turbocharger plumbing. Any small leak in the trunking that conveys the pressurised air from the turbocharger to the engine can contribute a range of hissing noises.

Either way, it should be a simple fix at best, and a warranty claim at worst.