Suzuki Swift 2022 FAQs

Check out real-world situations relating to the Suzuki Swift here, particularly what our experts have to say about them.

• My Bluetooth button is not working either on the head unit or on the steering wheel in my 2020 Suzuki Swift...

  Since the Bluetooth is refusing to respond to either the head unit or steering wheel controls, it’s likely to be a problem with the unit itself, rather than a simple switch failure.

  In any case, your car is still under factory warranty, so take it back to the dealership and make it Suzuki’s problem. Sometimes these units can be reset by disconnecting the power to them for a period of time, but unless you know the factory procedure, you’re flying blind. Back to the dealer.

   

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• Why does my 2012 Suzuki Swift struggle going up hills?

  This model Swift was recalled to check and tighten, if necessary, the bolts that connect the torque converter to the car’s engine. However, if these were to fail or fall out (as happened in some cases) it would be a one-off event and the car then wouldn’t work at all.

  Your problem sounds more like a worn transmission which is not accepting the load you put on it when you try to accelerate. This could be worn bands or some other component inside the transmission. CVTs are pretty complex things and rely on physical parts like bands and pulleys as well as hydraulic bits and pieces to take drive to the wheels. It would also be worth checking the torque converter, as a damaged or worn unit can also produce the symptoms you’re seeing. I’d start with checking that the recall was carried out and work backwards from there.

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• Why has my 2009 Suzuki Swift lost power?

  Modern engines like the Suzuki’s use literally dozens of sensors to keep the engine’s computer informed on the operating temperature, quality of the fuel, coolant temperature, ambient temperature, camshaft position and lots, lots more. If just one of those sensors starts to offer up false or misleading information to the computer, the whole operation of running the engine can be compromised. That’s when you’ll get rough running and/or stalling as well as the excessive fuel consumption you’ve noted.

  Rather than starting to change sensors on an ad hoc basis (which could take weeks and hundreds of dollars, and even then not arrive at a solution) the best advice is to have the car electronically scanned. At that point, the car’s computer is a good chance to tell the interrogating computer what ails it, and then you can zero in on that component and replace only the parts that are the problem.

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