Are you having problems with your Subaru? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Subaru issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Subaru in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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Subaru’s own brochure blurb for the Crosstrek features the promise of off-roading family fun. With that in mind, the warranty will still apply even if you do get adventurous with the vehicle. That said, you might have warranty problems if it’s deemed that you’ve abused the vehicle by trying to take it places it was never designed to go. For example, while the Crosstrek is fine for finding a great mountain bike trail somewhere along a forestry road, trying to drive it up the Old Telegraph Track to Cape York through metre-deep river crossings is not within the Crosstrek’s design brief. Doubtless Subaru might argue you should have bought a high-clearance off-roader with a snorkel for such adventures.
The CVT is Subaru’s own work and design. While many other carmakers buy in transmissions from outside manufacturers, the CVT in the Crosstrek is an in-house effort. It’s generally agreed that Subaru’s CVTs are better than some other brands in terms of durability and reliability.
A car can stop in its tracks for hundreds of reasons, but in a car like yours, first suspicions would be either the fuel pump or something like the crank-angle sensor. If the problem had been a clogged fuel filter or a dud spark plug, the problem would probably have made the engine run poorly, but not stopped it dead in an instant.
Electric fuel pumps don’t last forever and, when they die, they die quickly and without notice. Same goes for crank-angle sensors, without which, the computer doesn’t know where the individual pistons are in each cylinder and, therefore, can’t inject fuel or create spark at the precise time it needs to.
Before you commit to any costly course of action, go back to basics. A car that jumps out of gear might have a poorly adjusted shifter or linkage mechanism rather than something internal to the gearbox. Even a worn engine or transmission mount can allow enough movement for the car to jump out of gear. So check that stuff first.
In terms of rebuilding a gearbox like this one, you may find the cost is greater than the retained value of the vehicle. Not to mention, with that sort of mileage, that you’ll lie awake at night wondering what’s going to break next. At that point, you have to make a call. But don’t forget, you might be able to find a second-hand gearbox in good condition at a parts recycler, and have that fitted for a fraction of the cost of an overhaul. And then you’re on your way to your second half-million kilometres.
It certainly sounds that way. The clutch’s job is to join the engine to the gearbox while still being able to disconnect them when you need to idle the car or change gears. If the clutch is worn out, you’ll find it slipping under load, allowing the revs to flare up and the vehicle not moving much. This sounds exactly like what you’re describing.
At the least, you’ll need a new clutch unit, but if it’s been slipping for some time, there’s a chance the flywheel has been damaged and will also need to be replaced or machined. I’m tipping that when you tried to reverse out of your parking spot most recently and revved the engine out with no motion from the rest of the car, there was a terrible smell a bit like the smell of brakes in a railway station when a rain pulls in. If so, that’s a clutch failure for sure.
You may have something loose or worn in the driveline – such as a driveshaft – that is causing the thump. Looseness or wear means the drive from the engine doesn’t travel smoothly to the wheels, and that’s why you hear a noise and feel a clunk when you engage a gear. A check underneath should easily spot the problem.
But you may also be dealing with a worn transmission with internal wear. The Subaru XV uses a CVT transmission which, while a very efficient design, is also known for developing wear. This isn’t just a Subaru problem, either; many makes and models with CVTs have the same issues. CVTs are definitely stronger than they used to be, but they’re not always the most robust type of transmission.
It sounds like the head unit and its Bluetooth functions have suffered a pretty major electronic failure. The good news is that you can replace the head unit for reasonable money these days, and get a better unit with more features into the bargain.
But before you rush out and replace the unit, try to find the reset button (often a small hole into which you poke a probe) to effect what is basically an Ctrl-Alt-Del reset. This will sometimes restore the unit to full functionality, so it’s definitely worth a try. You could also try disconnecting the car’s battery overnight to see if that resets things.
The noise could be from the electric motors themselves or in the gears and cogs that physically move the mirrors to their new positions. Pulling the mirror apart and lubricating these mechanisms might help reduce the noise and may even fix the one mirror’s reluctance to move through its full range of positions.
As far as warranty goes, the situation is a bit complicated in that the dealer may examine the noise and decide that it’s not abnormal. But what you should do before the warranty runs out is have the car examined and the problem logged at dealership level. That way, if anything goes wrong as a result of the problem, even if it’s beyond the warranty period, you have what’s called a pre-existing condition whereby the problems is Subaru’s to fix because it existed while the warranty was still current, even if it wasn’t fixed at that time. The point being that the dealer can’t delay a fix reported during the warranty period and then claim that the vehicle is out of warranty and refuse to fix the problem.