Mitsubishi Pajero Problems

First suspicions would be the body computer which controls all sorts of functions including central locking, indicators, dashboard, heating and central locking. The fact that two functions have disappeared together is what makes the body computer a great place to start.

An auto electrician should be able to diagnose the problem. The worst-case scenario is that you’ll need a new body computer model and will then have to re-sync the new computer to your existing keys. But don’t rule out a poor earth or even a battery that is starting to show its age.

There are literally dozens of reasons the check-engine light might illuminate in a car like the Pajero. Fundamentally, the car is trying to tell you something is not right with one or more of its systems, and that it needs attention. Those systems could include (but are not limited to) the ignition, fuel, emissions, exhaust, mechanical and cooling systems.

Simply replacing random parts is a quick way to burn up a lot of money and still not fix the problem. I’m curious as to why you’ve assumed the problem is with the EGR system. And even if you’re right and the EGR system is causing the problem, you might find the fault is with the actual EGR valve or its coolant system, rather than the electronics that control and monitor it.

Take the car to a workshop and have it electronically scanned to try to narrow down the cause of the check-engine light. The fault codes will have been logged by the on-board computer and are usually the only way to zero in on the actual problem. Even once that’s done and the problem fixed, there’s probably a separate procedure for switching the engine light off.

If it was just the indicators or just the central locking, you could spend a long time figuring this out. But if both the indicators and the central locking went on the blink at the same time, any mechanic's suspicions would be drawn to the body computer. This is an ECU that controls all those functions, including cruise-control, heating and ventilation and much, much more.

If the computer unit fails or starts to behave erratically, you'll notice these functions either working intermittently or not working at all. In some cases, a new body computer will be needed, but you can try this trick at home. Disconnect the battery and leave the car overnight. You may find when you reconnect the battery, all the functions have been restored.

The other trick to try is to hold the lock button on your key fob for a minimum of 60 seconds. That, too, can often reset the body computer and reboot thigs back to where they should be. Failing that, it's off to an auto electrician.

It's not unheard of for a brand-new component to be faulty straight out of the box. However, the more logical explanation for your car refusing to start after the crank angle sensor was replaced is that the sensor was not the problem in the first place.

Instead of continuing to replace random components that may or may not fix the problem, you really need to find the problem and then tackle it with new parts. Scanning the car's electronics will often throw up the answer, but it could also be something as simple as the car having sat for a few months and the fuel going stale in the process. The causes of a no-start condition are endless.

The manual transmission in this car side-stepped one of the bigger faults with the Pajero. In automatic form, the transmission cooler which ran inside the radiator could split, allowing the coolant and transmission fluid to mix. If this happened, the transmission was often ruined. No such problem with the manual, however.

But really, the scope for problems in a car this old that also happens to be an off-roader is huge. Age and kilometres are never kind to vehicles, and a Pajero of this age has probably covered plenty of ground. Also, if it has been used as its maker intended (that is, off-road) then you need to check things like wheel bearings, differential fluids and suspension parts for damage and wear. Are the chassis rails showing signs of having clobbered hundreds of rocks in the past? Do all the body panels line-up or are there signs of the metal having been bent and twisted in the bush?

Even if the car has never been off-road (and you can confirm this) there's still all the old-car checks to make. Have the engine compression tested to make sure there's not excessive internal wear and listen carefully for any clunks, bangs or grinding noises. Then go through the car from top to bottom making sure every switch, handle and lever does what it is supposed to.

These can be really good second-hand buys, but the wrong Pajero, like the wrong example of any car, can break your heart and empty your wallet. If in doubt, have a Pajero specialist or your state motoring club independently check the car for you and get a written report.

It’s a bit hard to go past an older Holden Commodore or Ford Falcon for this brief. That said, your towing requirement means you’d be best looking at something like an AU (1998 to 2003) Falcon Ute (assuming you only need to move one other person).

These are strong, simple cars that any mechanic can deal with and parts are plentiful and relatively cheap. There are other options (older Japanese dual-cabs) but nothing really gets close to the Aussie stuff for durability and running costs. An elderly Nissan Navara, for instance, might do the job but is likely to become fragile as it ages. A two-wheel-drive Toyota HiLux is another possibility, but you’d probably be right at the limit of your towing capacity with one of those. The Falcon ute, meanwhile, can legally tow 2300kg. It’s not glamorous or sexy, but it’ll do the job and stay on target price-wise.

The other obvious contender would be an early Mitsubishi Pajero with a V6 engine. These had a towing capacity of 2500kg and are around now for very little money, certainly within your budget. They also double as a very handy off-roader should you wish.

Perhaps the clue here is that the problem only occurs when the fuel level reaches one-quarter or less. That suggests that there’s a problem with the fuel pick-up in the bottom section of the tank. Typically, this will involve a split in the fuel pick-up line.

When the tank is full of fuel, fuel covers the split, allowing the pump to pick up fuel normally. As the level falls, the split is exposed and suddenly the pump is sucking air instead of fuel.

Alternatively, your problem could be bleed-back of the fuel pressure when the car is parked, but that would potentially affect things regardless of how much fuel was in the tank at the time. Unless the bleed-back is being caused by the split we’re talking about, in which case you’re back to square one. Either way, it would be wise to check pump pressure and delivery rate (litres per minute) to see that the pump itself is working properly and at correct capacity. Don’t rule out something like a blocked fuel filter, either, which can seriously reduce the flow of the fuel to the engine; critical in any cold-start situation.

You really have two ways to go here. The fact that you want to go off-road in the best/worst conditions this country has to offer means an SUV or cross-over just isn’t going to cut it. With that in mind, you’re looking at either a dual-cab ute or a conventional four-wheel-drive wagon.

In the ute world, there’s plenty of choice within your budget, but you need to be careful that the vehicle in question hasn’t been worked to death by a tradie towing a bobcat Monday to Friday. The popularity of these vehicles, meanwhile, means that there’s lots of choice when it comes to aftermarket bits and pieces to complete your dream vehicle.

The other route – a conventional wagon-style 4X4 – also places a lot of choice within your budget. The Toyota LandCruiser Prado would be a good choice, as would something like a Mitsubishi Pajero which has always represented good value for money both brand-new and second-hand. You could also look at Nissan Patrols which also give you plenty of car for the money and, if you shop carefully, you could find a really nice LandCruiser 80 Series, reckoned by some to be the absolute pinnacle of off-road wagons, even though they’re getting on a bit now. There’s great aftermarket and service support for all these options, so it will come down to your personal preferences.

The Mitsubishi Pajero is actually regarded as a very reliable vehicle, so your experience is not typical. There are several potential causes for this, but the thing I’d check first would be the air filter. Is it possible this was overlooked during the recent service? A blocked or dirty air filter will certainly make an engine blow smoke and operate poorly.

I’m assuming your vehicle is a diesel, so it would be worth checking the suction-control valve on the back of the fuel pump, too. Also, a stuck injector that is pouring fuel into the engine can also potentially create these symptoms. I’ve also heard of the Pajero diesel suffering from a build-up of black gunk inside the intake system that can also cause symptoms like the ones you’ve described.