Ask The Guide

This is one of the problems with the way the prices of band-new vehicles are haggled over. Had there been just a simple checkout price (as there is with nearly everything else we buy) this confusion probably wouldn't have crept in. I take that, having asked for the tray upgrade, you then paid attention only to the final price being offered by the dealer.

Regardless of whether the dealer is trying to stall you with talk of a two month wait is a side issue. And perhaps you can hold out and force the dealer to supply the vehicle as per your contract of sale. Then again, if the mistake was a genuine one by a member of the sales staff (who could conceivably lose their job over such a blunder) then what's the moral solution? Perhaps there's a compromise to be made by both parties. I can understand you not wanting to pay an extra $7000 for a different type of tray, but surely that's not the best result for anybody. In an ideal world, perhaps one solution would be for the dealer to provide the tray at their cost price (so they don't lose money on the deal) and you get a cheap(er) tray because you're not paying retail. Yes, it's complicated. But that's what happens when commerce meets karma.

This is a really interesting question, because most car-makers tend to quote their products’ luggage capacity in litres, rather than a set of dimensions in each direction. Even then, it's not that simple as there are different methods fort calculating the cubic capacity of a load space, and the two methods are not readily comparable. It's also a bit of a con-job, because a figure in litres mean very little to most people, while actual measurements in centimetres would be much more relatable.

In any case, since you obviously have two kids with cellos and school-bags, it's clear that you'll also need the rear seat for at least one passenger, so you need to find a vehicle that either has enough space in the rear with the first two rows of seats in place, or a car that has a split-fold rear seat to allow longer loads (like a cello or two) to pass from the luggage area into the rear seat space. The good news there is that many (if not all) SUVs do, in fact, have this split-fold seat, and that will surely accommodate even a full-sized cello which, after a bit of scratching around, I discovered is about 121cm long.

If, however, you need to occupy the whole rear seat with passengers, then you need to find an SUV that is wide enough to accept the cellos loaded across (or diagonally across) the car. That won't be easy, because most vehicles just aren't that wide inside. Even a conventional full-sized car-based Holden or Ford utility (which aren't being made any longer) is only about 1400mm wide. And if you check out something like a Hyundai Santa Fe, it's load area with the third row is feats down is just 1080mm at its narrowest point. Even the huge Hyundai Palisade is just 1111mm across the narrowest point of its load area. There will be areas where the space is wider, but that narrowest point is usually between the rear wheel-arches.

I'll also take a punt and suggest that the cellos in question are either in carry-bags or even hard-cases which would add even more to their length. So you might find it very difficult to find anything that will accommodate a 1.2 or 1.3 metre cello lengthways in the luggage area without resorting to folding down half the second-row seat. Even a big car like a Volvo XC90 has just 1220mm of load length with the rear seat in place, and mid-sized station-wagons typically have less than a metre between the tailgate and the rear seat. The best idea might be to make a short-list of cars you'd be happy with and then visit the relevant showrooms with a tape measure (or even a cello) in your hand.

This is indeed a known problem on these transmissions and one for which Mazda issued a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB; like a recall but not safety related) back in 2014. Apparently, a problem with the valve-body (that controls the gearbox’s shifts) caused a scraping or buzzing noise usually when shifting form Park to Drive or Reverse. That’s not exactly what you’re reporting, but it’s almost too similar not to be related. Depending on the build date of the vehicle, Mazda either replaced part of the entire valve-body assembly.

The other problem you’ve alluded to; that of a faulty output speed sensor is a different issue to the one that sounds like it’s causing your problem. In the case of the dud sensor, the gearbox could suddenly decide to shift back to first gear unannounced. If that happened at speed, it could cause the vehicle’s wheels to lock up with some very interesting consequences.

Back when LPG was between 10 and 20 cents a litre, it made all sorts of sense. Even when it had crept up to 50 or 60 cents a litre, car-makers like Ford and Holden were producing LPG-dedicated vehicles to make the most of that cost advantage.

Now, however, when LPG is 80 or 90 cents per litre (versus $1.40 or $150 for petrol) the arithmetic no longer presents the sound financial case it once did. Given that Australia still has plenty of LPG, this probably means a couple of things. The first is that the companies who produce the LPG would rather sell it offshore in bulk that mess about transport it to a few thousand individual service-stations. The second is that maintaining a service station to incorporate petrol, diesel and LPG is too much trouble, so there’s a move to get rid of the latter as a streamlining measure. The death of local cars with LPG engines has only sped up this process. Again, though, this is only conjecture.

My guess is that you’ll still be able to buy LPG from a service station for many years to come, but it may not be every service station you pass. The bigger issue, though, is that now that LPG is no longer the money saver it once was (yes, it costs less, but you use more per kilometre than a car running on petrol) what’s the point of an LPG-dedicated vehicle? Dual-fuel (where you can run on petrol or LPG at the flick of a switch) is one thing, but a dedicated LPG car stopped making a lot of financial sense for many people a few years ago.

Transmissions that are sealed for life always seem like a pretty big statement of faith from a manufacturer, don’t they? Unfortunately, that faith sometimes seems to be misplaced, at which point the car-maker has to issue a service bulletin and change the rules, usually after a number of failures. And automatic or CVT transmissions are a classic case.

That’s exactly what happened to Suzuki in the USA when it issued a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) to cover the US-market version of your car after enough owners reported CVT problems, usually in hot weather when the unit would start to act erratically. The TSB included the new information that, if the car was used in tough conditions, perhaps a CVT fluid change every 50,000km might not be a bad idea.

Given that Australia has similar levels of ambient heat to the US, I don’t think that’s bad advice for an Aussie Kizashi owner, either. Plenty of other car-makers have had to change their recommendations mid-stride, so it’s not just a Suzuki thing. But as any transmission specialist will tell you, heat kills automatics and CVTs, and that starts with a break-down of the fluid which, as well as providing the drive, also cost and lubricates the transmission. For the sake of the few dollars involved, I’d have the fluid in my CVT changed every 50,000km.

To get a vehicle with meaningful (as opposed to a theoretical) towing ability of 2.5 tonnes, you really need to shop for a relatively late-model dual-cab 4X4 ute. The reason for that is that many vehicles that claim a 2.5-tonne limit in the brochure fail to explain that there’s also a Gross Vehicle Combination Mass in play and, by the time you’ve added passengers, gear and a full tank of fuel to the towing vehicle, there might not be much of that GCM to devote to a towed load.

Going for a vehicle with 3000kg or even 35000kg towing capacity in the first place is a good way to ensure you do accidentally start driving around in an overloaded vehicle with all the legal and insurance connotations that involves.

A lot of the current shape dual-cab utes fall within your budget on a second-hand basis, but there are caveats. Make sure you only buy a ute with a full service history. Some of these vehicles were worked hard by their original owners, so be very careful before handing over the cash. Avoid ex-mine fleet vehicles and don’t be afraid to buy a base-model vehicle if it offers better value. Even a single-cab version of these utes will be a lot cheaper than the dual-cab and, if you don’t need the rear seat, are often a more practical solution. Makes and models include the Ford Ranger, Toyota HiLux, Mazda BT50, Mitsubishi Triton and Isuzu D-Max. For real value for money, vehicles like the Ssangyong Musso can tow 3.5 tonnes, are well equipped and can be had for less than $35,000 drive-away, brand-new. That also gets you a seven-year factory warranty. All of these options are available with the automatic transmission you want and, indeed, this is the best option for a tow vehicle.

You’re on the right track by asking about the gear-stick and its linkages; either of those two things is almost certain to be the cause of your problem. The gearstick itself needs to pivot in two planes, so there’s always scope for wear to develop in those joints and create the sloppy shift action you’re experiencing. In fact, because the shifter on your car bolts directly on to the gearbox – with no external linkages – wear in the shifter pivots is a very good bet as the cause.

You can remove the shift lever, take it apart and replace the bushes that allow the shifter to move and select each gear. That should tighten up the shift action and give you much better feel for what’s going on. The other possibility is that the shifter has become loose where it bolts on to the gearbox, or the rubber gasket that sits between the shifter and the transmission has perished or failed, allowing movement to occur.

Unfortunately, you’re right; this model Holden Captiva has a terrible reputation and failing transmission are right at the top of that list. Holden recognised the problem to an extent and extended the factory cover on the transmission to 150,000km or five years from the date the vehicle entered service. That was up from the three-year/100,000km standard warranty that your car was sold with. But since your car is a 2012 model and has likely been on the road for the last eight or nine years, that’s of very little use to you.

I agree that a car with 64,000km should not need a new transmission and, if it does, the manufacturer should be helping out. But now that Holden as a brand is extinct, even finding somebody to talk to might be a battle. That said, Holden is legally required to stick around to take care of warranty claims, honour its scheduled servicing schemes, provide spare parts and service and attend to any safety recalls. That also means it still has a customer service division which you can reach by phoning 1800 46 465 336. It’s a long shot, but who knows.

The good news is that this probably isn’t an actual gearbox problem, but rather one with the mechanical linkages that select each gear or perhaps even the gear selector itself. If you can remove the centre console, you might be able to locate the offending (loose) fastener that is allowing the gear lever to flop about and not find its proper place.

If, however, you mean that the vehicle doesn’t want to select Drive properly first thing in the morning and either won’t move or moves very slowly when you accelerate, then you could well be looking at a worn transmission. That said, the same problem can be caused by a transmission that is simply low on fluid, and a top up will put things right. So that’s the first step: Check the owner’s manual for the correct fluid-checking process and try that. If a top-up doesn’t fix it, it’s off to a mechanic. But beware – driving the car in that state could be doing extra damage to the transmission.

This topic has been a red-hot one for many years now. It seems a lot of car-makers can’t seem to get it right when it comes to specifying a Bluetooth system that will work for Australian customers. Toyota had all sorts of crazy issues with the Bluetooth in its vehicles of a few years ago, although recent experience suggests that is now sorted.

I’ve not heard of the Isuzu D-Max as a problem child specifically, but it doesn’t surprise me to hear that you’re having difficulties. There’s a theory that some Bluetooth systems simply don’t play well with some makes and models of phones, and that could be what’s happening to you. A quick check would be to find a friend with an iPhone and see if that will work better in your car. That would at least rule out a blanket problem with the unit in your car.