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This is not an unknown problem with Holden’s Alloytech V6 engine and can often be traced back to a damaged gasket for the thermostat housing which is located at the rear of the engine block. And you’re right, to change this gasket which costs just a few dollars, involves removing the exhaust and transmission. The best advice is to have the thermostat itself changed while all this work is being done, as it will save you going through it all again if the thermostat ever fails (and they have been known to).

But definitely have it checked out as coolant leaks never fix themselves and a small leak today could easily be a big leak tomorrow, leaving you stranded with an overheating engine. Meantime, you might be lucky and discover that the leak is not from the thermostat housing at all. These engines are also prone to coolant leaks from a pair of O-rings at the front of the cylinder heads which can allow coolant to leak through the valley and out the back over the transmission tunnel, making you think the leak is from the rear of the V6. Don’t rule out the water pump as a source of leaks, either. The trade seems to think about 100,000km is the lifespan for an Alloytech V6’s water pump.

I’d be taking the vehicle to a transmission specialist (as opposed to a general workshop). A good transmission expert will be able to tell you a lot about the condition of your gearbox by giving it a once over. That will include an examination of the level and condition of the fluid as well as an inspection of the contents of the transmission filter which can offer up an enormous amount of detail on what’s happening inside the gearbox.

When was the last time the transmission was serviced? The fluid in these units is a bit like the oil in your engine; left unchanged for too long, it will degrade and won’t be able to do its job which, in the case of an automatic transmission, includes both lubricating the unit as well as providing the actual driving force to turn your car’s wheels. If your problem was intermittent or was solved (even temporarily) by switching the engine off and back on again, then I’d be inclined to suspect an electronic or sensor problem. But since the problem only happens when the transmission gets hot, it does sound potentially mechanical in nature.

The biggest potential repair cost for this make and model would probably be the replacement of the engine's timing chains. These were of poor design and quality from the start and many Commodore V6s of this era have suffered stretched chains which require replacement. It's not a cheap job, either, and you should budget for at least a couple of thousand dollars. While the vehicle in question has covered low kilometres, the health or otherwise of its timing chains will be down to how well it's been serviced over the years. Any skipped servicing makes it a ticking time bomb in this regard. But even well maintained vehicles have experienced the same problem.

There have been plenty of complaints over this transmission, and a lot of them have been traced back to the valve body separator plate which, from the sound of things, has been replaced on your vehicle. However, was it replaced with a new part or a second-hand one sourced from another vehicle? Was the work done by a Ford dealership or a transmission specialist or a general workshop?

It's not so likely to be the wiring that's at fault. Wiring tends to either conduct electricity or it doesn't. But that doesn't mean the computer that controls the transmission wasn't damaged when the loom was burned. Fundamentally, the symptoms you're experiencing could be from any (or all of) the causes you've suggested. Valve bodies, torque converters, electronic control units and gearbox internals all have to be working in perfect harmony in a modern automatic transmission. One little problem with any of those systems can cause all sorts of shifting problems. I'd take the vehicle to a transmission specialist who will be able to – hopefully – diagnose the exact cause of the harsh downshifts and do something about it.

Problems with the electronics appear to be the biggest source of grief for LDV owners. Many complain that the vehicle's on-board infotainment system appears to be fundamentally incompatible with Android phones and that the Bluetooth function generally just doesn't work as it should. Many LDVs also seem to have developed the annoying habit of ratcheting their stereo's volume to full every time the car is started. The blind-spot warning system seems prone to offering false alarms and the reverse camera has been widely panned for it's low-resolution image. About the only way to fix these issues is to replace the factory system with an aftermarket head unit…not what you'd expect from a modern vehicle.

Of course, given that the LDV T60 was launched in late 2017 with a five-year warranty, the oldest of them can now only be coming up for their fourth birthday. Which means that provided the vehicle has been serviced correctly and you haven't driven it more than 130,000km, you're covered by that warranty. Which seems to us, that it's LDV's problem to sort something out by either fixing the standard infotainment system or sourcing and fitting an aftermarket one that actually works. Contact LDV's Australian customer service department and make sure your complaint is logged on the factory system.

A Subaru Forester engine oil change is a great way to start to learn about DIY maintenance and save yourself some money by performing an oil change service at home. Precisely how to change oil on a Subaru Forester is far from a trade secret and essentially involves removing the old oil, fitting a replacement oil filter of the right type and size and then replenishing the engine oil. Okay, it’s not quite that simple, and you need to take into account disposing of the old oil as well as learning the correct tightening specifications for the sump plug and filter. But this is a job that the typical mechanic at a service centre would tackle every day and earn their bread and butter income from. And that’s money you can save at home. Bear in mind, though, that this is not the only maintenance job a Forester requires, but it’s the most common one.

The other issue is knowing when to tackle your Subaru Forester oil change as well as how often to change oil as time and kilometres go by. Waiting for the maintenance light to appear on the dashboard can leave things too long, and you’re much better off learning the correct service interval. This information will be listed in the owner’s manual.

The best Subaru Forester oil type is the one recommended by the manufacturer, and in that case, the petrol and diesel versions of the Forester need a 5W40 and a diesel-specific 5W30 respectively. That applies for cars made from 2008 to 2012 and includes the new 2.5-litre petrol engine introduced with a facelift in very late 2010. The same grade of oil is also specified for the engines fitted to 2013 and 2014 models, while a 5W30 is also the correct oil for the revised diesel engine introduced in 2015 which continued through 2016 and beyond to the end of that model in 2018. Foresters with petrol engines have a 4.8 litre oil capacity, while the diesel engines require almost six litres of oil, so make sure you buy enough as well as a little for top ups in the future.

You should also fit the correct Subaru oil filter when ever you change the engine oil and, for the majority of petrol engined Foresters from this era, the proper filter is a Ryco (or equivalent) Z436, while the turbo-diesel engine requires a Ryco Z148A. Any spare parts store should be able to provide these filters and confirm the correct fitment.

The best Honda CR-V engine oil will depend on which engine your car is fitted with. From 2007, Honda used a 2.4-litre four-cylinder and, even though the model was facelifted in 2012, the engine stayed the same. In that case, the oil you need is a quality (from a recognised brand) 5W40 either synthetic or semi-synthetic. From 2012 to 2017, the CR-V was also available with a two-litre petrol engine option, and that unit requires a 0W20 as the first choice but a 5W30 is also allowable for engines that size.

If your car is the later model, things get a bit more complicated as there were new engine options including a 2.2-litre turbo-diesel which needs a diesel-specific 0W30 synthetic oil. If you have the later 1.6-litre turbo-diesel replacement which arrived here from late 2015, the same 0W30 oil is appropriate, as is a 5W30 synthetic. These `light’ (low viscosity) oils are typical for high-tech engines such as the Honda’s with its variable valve timing.

Honda made continual changes to the CR-V range over the years, including some model and specification revisions for the 2016 model year, but none of these affected the range of engines (or Honda CR-V oil type) we’ve just discussed. Late model CR-Vs with a petrol engine require five litres (or slightly less) of oil, while the turbo-diesel models need 4.7 litres.

Just as there’s a correct Honda CRV oil, the correct Honda CR-V oil filter should also be fitted at the same time to avoid putting clean oil through an old, dirty filter. For the 2.4 petrol, the correct filter is a Ryco (or equivalent) Z411, as is the filter for the two-litre petrol. The 2.2-litre diesel requires an R2767P filter while the 1.6 diesel uses a Z690.

There are no mysterious trade secrets about how to change oil on a Honda CR-V, but you do need to know the basics. Changing oil and oil filter at home is a great DIY project and a good way to save some money and gain some satisfaction. The best advice is to obtain a workshop manual specific to your car and take it step by step. The manual will also include all the information and specifications you need to tackle other DIY service and maintenance jobs including checking power steering and transmission fluid. The manual will also give you information on how often to change the oil as well as the check and service intervals for the car’s other systems. That way, you won’t be relying on a warning light on the dashboard to tell you that action is needed.

If you have any doubts, there’s always the option of taking the vehicle to a service centre, but even talking to a family friend who is a mechanic might give you the confidence to give this task a go. Changing a car’s oil is not tricky, but there are things you must remember, including disposing of the used oil in an environmentally responsible way.

There’s no real trick on how to change oil on a VW Golf, but the procedure is critical, as getting it wrong can ruin the engine. The best advice is to obtain a workshop manual for the exact model Golf, and use that as a step-by-step guide to what is a great DIY home maintenance task.

Fundamentally, though, the first thing to do is determine how often to change oil, otherwise known as the correct oil change interval. For most of us, this will be based on the distance travelled since the last oil change service. Late model Golfs have a 12-month or 15,000km (whichever comes first) service interval.

From there, it’s a case of using the correct size spanner or socket (not an adjustable wrench) to undo the drain plug at the bottom of the engine and drain out the old oil. Replacement of the oil filter is next, followed by refilling the engine with the correct VW Golf oil type. Since much of this work happens from below the car, a torch or auxiliary light is a handy thing to have, as are drain pans and clean rags to mop up spills. Don’t forget that disposing of the old oil and filter environmentally is part of the deal.

The correct Volkswagen Golf engine oil will depend on whether your car is a petrol or diesel and whether it’s turbocharged or not. The exact specifications of the oil you need should be listed in your car’s owner’s manual. Broadly speaking, most Golfs, whether petrol or diesel, from the last few years require a fully synthetic 5W30 oil to operate properly. Depending on model, the Golf has an oil capacity of between four and five litres, so a five-litre pack will give you a little left over for top ups.

If you’re not confident with tackling this job, then a trip to a local mechanic or service centre is your best option. But if you’re prepared to have a go, then this is a great home maintenance project for the first timer. Having a mechanically-minded friend guide you through the process the first time is another good idea.

Audi A4 engine oil changes are a critical part of life for this car, as its high-tech engine is complex and precise and will not tolerate dirty or old oil. But even though the engine is sophisticated, as long as you know how to change the oil correctly, it’s a great DIY way to save money for the home mechanic (oil changes are a major income source for the average service centre) and will empower you to tackle more maintenance jobs including, perhaps, a full service. The best advice is to buy a workshop manual and follow exactly the steps as laid out, but essentially, you’ll need to drain the old oil, replace the oil filter, renew the oil and dispose of the old oil in an environmentally acceptable way (many councils operate oil recycling stations). While not a challenging job for a mechanic, the Audi is a complicated machine with lots of components competing for space, so it’s possibly not a job for the completely uninitiated.

There are several things you need to know before even reaching for a spanner. Those include the type of Audi A4 oil you need, the specifications of the Audi A4 oil filter that will be changed as part of the process, and how often to change oil (often referred to as the oil-change interval). You also need to know precisely what year your car is as Audi varied specifications as the years rolled by. A 2007 A4, for instance, may have different specifications compared with one from 2010, or 2013. Even a 2011 and a 2012 Audi A4 had differences under the bonnet, so be very specific when it comes time to buying the oil and replacement filter. Don’t forget, too, that the A4 has used extensively both 1.8 and 2.0 size engines and, of course, a diesel option which has its own set of specific requirements when it comes to servicing. Again, the workshop manual and the parts interpreter where you buy your oil and filter are your friends. Knowing your car’s VIN can also be a big help in identifying what specific parts you need.

The correct Audi A4 oil type is (for petrol and diesel engines) a fully synthetic 5W30. You’ll need five litres for a diesel oil change and 5.2 litres for the petrol engine-A4. The correct replacement oil filter is a Ryco (or equivalent) R2748K for the petrol engine and an R2740P for the turbo-diesel.

Performing a DIY Hyundai Getz engine oil change at home is a great way to save money and protect your engine. The process is not too involved, but you need to get it right. Perhaps you can enlist the help of a mechanic or somebody who knows how to change oil on your Hyundai Getz the first time to avoid any oversights.