Ask The Guide

There have been plenty of complaints over this transmission, and a lot of them have been traced back to the valve body separator plate which, from the sound of things, has been replaced on your vehicle. However, was it replaced with a new part or a second-hand one sourced from another vehicle? Was the work done by a Ford dealership or a transmission specialist or a general workshop?

It’s not so likely to be the wiring that’s at fault. Wiring tends to either conduct electricity or it doesn’t. But that doesn’t mean the computer that controls the transmission wasn’t damaged when the loom was burned. Fundamentally, the symptoms you’re experiencing could be from any (or all of) the causes you’ve suggested. Valve bodies, torque converters, electronic control units and gearbox internals all have to be working in perfect harmony in a modern automatic transmission. One little problem with any of those systems can cause all sorts of shifting problems. I’d take the vehicle to a transmission specialist who will be able to – hopefully – diagnose the exact cause of the harsh downshifts and do something about it.

Problems with the electronics appear to be the biggest source of grief for LDV owners. Many complain that the vehicle’s on-board infotainment system appears to be fundamentally incompatible with Android phones and that the Bluetooth function generally just doesn’t work as it should. Many LDVs also seem to have developed the annoying habit of ratcheting their stereo’s volume to full every time the car is started. The blind-spot warning system seems prone to offering false alarms and the reverse camera has been widely panned for it’s low-resolution image. About the only way to fix these issues is to replace the factory system with an aftermarket head unit…not what you’d expect from a modern vehicle.

Of course, given that the LDV T60 was launched in late 2017 with a five-year warranty, the oldest of them can now only be coming up for their fourth birthday. Which means that provided the vehicle has been serviced correctly and you haven’t driven it more than 130,000km, you’re covered by that warranty. Which seems to us, that it’s LDV’s problem to sort something out by either fixing the standard infotainment system or sourcing and fitting an aftermarket one that actually works. Contact LDV’s Australian customer service department and make sure your complaint is logged on the factory system.

This is one of the problems with the way the prices of band-new vehicles are haggled over. Had there been just a simple checkout price (as there is with nearly everything else we buy) this confusion probably wouldn’t have crept in. I take that, having asked for the tray upgrade, you then paid attention only to the final price being offered by the dealer.

Regardless of whether the dealer is trying to stall you with talk of a two month wait is a side issue. And perhaps you can hold out and force the dealer to supply the vehicle as per your contract of sale. Then again, if the mistake was a genuine one by a member of the sales staff (who could conceivably lose their job over such a blunder) then what’s the moral solution? Perhaps there’s a compromise to be made by both parties. I can understand you not wanting to pay an extra $7000 for a different type of tray, but surely that’s not the best result for anybody. In an ideal world, perhaps one solution would be for the dealer to provide the tray at their cost price (so they don’t lose money on the deal) and you get a cheap(er) tray because you’re not paying retail. Yes, it’s complicated. But that’s what happens when commerce meets karma.

This is a really interesting question, because most car-makers tend to quote their products’ luggage capacity in litres, rather than a set of dimensions in each direction. Even then, it’s not that simple as there are different methods fort calculating the cubic capacity of a load space, and the two methods are not readily comparable. It’s also a bit of a con-job, because a figure in litres mean very little to most people, while actual measurements in centimetres would be much more relatable.

In any case, since you obviously have two kids with cellos and school-bags, it’s clear that you’ll also need the rear seat for at least one passenger, so you need to find a vehicle that either has enough space in the rear with the first two rows of seats in place, or a car that has a split-fold rear seat to allow longer loads (like a cello or two) to pass from the luggage area into the rear seat space. The good news there is that many (if not all) SUVs do, in fact, have this split-fold seat, and that will surely accommodate even a full-sized cello which, after a bit of scratching around, I discovered is about 121cm long.

If, however, you need to occupy the whole rear seat with passengers, then you need to find an SUV that is wide enough to accept the cellos loaded across (or diagonally across) the car. That won’t be easy, because most vehicles just aren’t that wide inside. Even a conventional full-sized car-based Holden or Ford utility (which aren’t being made any longer) is only about 1400mm wide. And if you check out something like a Hyundai Santa Fe, it’s load area with the third row is feats down is just 1080mm at its narrowest point. Even the huge Hyundai Palisade is just 1111mm across the narrowest point of its load area. There will be areas where the space is wider, but that narrowest point is usually between the rear wheel-arches.

I’ll also take a punt and suggest that the cellos in question are either in carry-bags or even hard-cases which would add even more to their length. So you might find it very difficult to find anything that will accommodate a 1.2 or 1.3 metre cello lengthways in the luggage area without resorting to folding down half the second-row seat. Even a big car like a Volvo XC90 has just 1220mm of load length with the rear seat in place, and mid-sized station-wagons typically have less than a metre between the tailgate and the rear seat. The best idea might be to make a short-list of cars you’d be happy with and then visit the relevant showrooms with a tape measure (or even a cello) in your hand.

This has been an ongoing problem for car owners for decades now. Car-makers often decide to fit self-levelling rear suspension in cars like station-wagons as it ensures the car doesn’t sit nose-up when it’s carrying a big load. But as you’ve discovered, replacing those adjustable shock absorbers can be a huge pain in the wallet. And, like tyres and brake pads, shock absorbers are often regarded as wear-and-tear items and therefore aren’t covered by a factory warranty. Certainly not a year out from the expiration of that warranty. That said, I agree with you that 55,000km is not the expected lifespan of a modern damper. 

In the past, the solution has been to fit conventional dampers in place of the adjustable ones and live with the loss of the self-levelling function (which most owners manage to cope with). The Mondeo is a much more popular model in Europe than it ever was in Australia, so shopping online in, say, the UK might turn up a set of replacement shocks for a lot less than the extortionate figure you’ve been quoted. Provided you deal with established, reputable online companies, you should have no problems. But if conventional (non-adjustable) dampers are available from a Mondeo without the self-levelling suspension, that would probably be the smart way to go to avoid being in the same boat in another 55,000km.

I’m not sure why you’d need to change the rear springs as well as moving to conventional dampers (not that I’m doubting your research) but even if that was the case, a set of springs is a one-off purchase and shouldn’t cost much. The best bet would be to visit a suspension specialist and have the car measured up to see what dampers will fit and do the job. There’s bound to be something out there from another make or model that will physically fit and provide the damping performance the car requires. Self-levelling suspension is a nice touch, but it’s not an absolute necessity on a car like a Mondeo wagon.

There are a few things going on with insured values. The first is that insurance companies will – generally – do everything they can to pay out as little as possible against a claim. That means, they will usually take the lower number from a range of values, and that appears to be exactly what has happened here. If you take a look at the classifieds right now, you’ll see 2015 Mazda 3 Maxxes priced anywhere from $12,000 to the low-20s. Clearly, your insurance company has adopted the lower of those values as the one that represents market value for your car. Don’t forget, either, that the asking price in the advert is not always the actual price that will be paid.

There can be other influences, too. What condition was your car in before the crash that wrote it off? If it had existing damage or wear, that could have led your insurer to adjust downwards the pay-out price it was offering. And what about kilometres travelled? Generally speaking, every extra thousand kilometres over the average for that make and model reduces its value in the eyes of insurance companies.

As for a replacement vehicle, I’d be looking at some of the South Korean (Hyundai and Kia) offerings. These brands now have a jump on some of the opposition when it comes to technology and standard safety equipment. They also represent solid engineering and reliability, not to mention terrific factory warranties.

For the record, there really is a global shortage of semi-conductors; a shortage that has already seen some big car-makers trim production and even close some plants. As the electric car phenomenon grows, and the average conventional car has anything up to 100 micro-processors, the shortage will only become more critical, so the next few months will be very interesting.

However, I spoke to Mitsubishi Australia about this and it seems your dealer might not be telling you everything. For a start, to even offer you an ASX LS without the safety gear it comes standard with is, according to head office, an impossibility. Why? Because Mitsubishi claims it has never built such a car. The spokesperson I talked to said that, had the correct semi-conductor (or any other part) not been available for that car in that specification, the car would not have been built. Simple as that. I’m not sure what Mitsubishi dealers are saying, but that’s head office’s view.

Which brings us to the question of your contract. Put simply, if the vehicle you’re being offered does not match the vehicle as described in the contract of sale, then you can call the deal off with no ramifications. And since this is major safety gear we’re talking about being AWOL, the car on offer most certainly does not match what you signed up for. So you can stop worrying on that front.

Then we move on to what the dealer is really trying to sell you. There’s a feeling within Mitsubishi that the dealer probably has stocks of a particular variant of the ASX, but one which doesn’t have the LS model’s standard safety kit. And that’s what they’re trying to unload on to you. So don’t have it.

If you go through with the deal, you’ll inevitably be buying a car that doesn’t live up to the safety levels you wanted when you originally ordered the LS model. It will be worth less as a trade-in in a few years, too, as used-car buyers (like everybody else) are increasingly interested in safety. As it stands, being offered a $300 discount on a car that doesn’t exist smells very odd to me. I’d be talking to Mitsubishi Australia’s customer service department and explaining your case. Sometimes you need to go to a higher court than the dealership itself.

It sounds like there’s a bit of confusion here over what actually caused the glass to break. It’s not entirely unknown for sunroof glass to shatter in extremes of heat or vibration, and other times, a car that has been poorly repaired after a crash can put stresses on the glass it was never designed for. The glass could simply have been struck by a flying rock or piece of debris. How you interpret those things will determine whether you think the breakage is a valid warranty claim or not. The fact that the dealership that examined your car can’t say what those 'external factors' were, only deepens the mystery.

In the end, I approached Mazda Australia with your case, who agreed to take a second look at the circumstances. The good news is that Mazda has applied the benefit-of-the-doubt judgment and agreed to fix your car under warranty.

But it’s worth mentioning that any car owner unhappy with the service or consideration given by a dealership doesn’t have to let it rest there. All car brands have a customer service department, and this should be your next port of call. From there it’s on to the ACCC. In some cases it’s worth getting an independent inspection of any damage to try to come to a conclusion over what really happened. The State motoring clubs are a good starting point for this service.

This sounds like a classic case of checking and rechecking everything you did to find out where the job went wrong. I’ll assume the engine was running before the spark-plug change and, if so, then it’s likely that you’ve done something really simple that has brought the vehicle to a halt.

The first thing to check is that you have replaced the spark-plug leads in their correct order. This is a really simple mistake to make but it will definitely put an end to play if you get it wrong. Even experienced wise heads often tackle this job one spark plug and one lead at a time to avoid a tangle of leads and the ensuing mix up. While you’re there, check that the high-tension lead from the coil to the distributor cap hasn’t fallen out or become loose. Sometimes it will look as though it’s in place, but needs a push down on to its contact. Still at the coil end of things, check that none of the little spade terminals have been accidentally dislodged from the coil’s terminals.

Another common mistake is to simply buy new spark plugs and install them. In many cases, they need to be gapped correctly, that is, they need to have the gap between the two electrodes set at the correct distance for your engine. In the case of your car, the correct gap is 1.1mm (44 thou, for the old mechanics out there). Without the correct gap, the engine won’t run properly and, if the gap is out far enough, the engine may not run at all. Don’t assume the spark plugs will have the correct gap on the shelf at the spare part shop.

All this pre-supposes, of course, that the problem has occurred as part of the spark-plug change. The truth is that it could also be a coincidence where something with the fuel system has gone wrong at the same time as you decided to change the plugs. If that’s the case, it’s back to the drawing board in terms of a diagnosis, but the good news is that the engine in your car is quite a simple one and is a great engine on which to learn about mechanics. Above all else, don’t be discouraged and keep at it; home maintenance of a vehicle can be very rewarding and save lots of money.

This does sound like an odd one, to be honest. It’s certainly possible to wear out a clutch in a very short space of time if you drive the car badly, but I’m trying to work out how a gearbox could fail at such a short mileage without there having been something wrong with it from the start. I’d also love to know why Toyota thinks the problem does not constitute a valid warranty claim.

Has the vehicle been used to tow exceptionally heavy loads? Are there any other extraordinary circumstances that makes Toyota think that the issue is a driver-abuse or neglect scenario?

I’d start by by-passing your dealership and contacting Toyota Australia’s customer service division. It might also be useful to have the damaged gearbox independently inspected by a specialist who might be able to pin-point the cause of the wear and help determine what happens next. If it can be shown that a component was faulty or simply failed too early, then I’d say you have a good case to pursue a warranty claim.