Mazda Problems

In some cases, with some versions of the CX-9, you can get a long screwdriver in between the bonnet and grille and manually flip the catch that will allow the bonnet to spring open. The trick is that you have to know where the catch is and since you can't see in there, it can be very difficult if not impossible.

If you have access to one, a borescope (a tiny camera on a thin, flexible shaft, might get you to the point where you can identify the latch and successfully aim the screwdriver. But at all times, you risk damaging the grille or bonnet.

You could take the car to a Mazda dealer or specialist who has probably seen this thing before and may have a few short-cuts to get the bonnet open. And since you're going to need a new cable anyway, you're then in the right place. If the job is a really tough one, you may find you need to remove the grille and even the front bumper to gain the access you need.

The best approach might be to have the car independently inspected and assessed. Your local motoring club (NRMA) would be a good place to start, but you could also probably take it to an established panel shop an achieve the same thing.

The results of that inspection will determine which way you go from there. If the inspection really does determine that the car has damage to its bodywork, then Mazda should treat it as a warranty claim and fix it. If the car does get resprayed be very selective on who does the work, as a brand-new car that has obviously been resprayed will raise eyebrows if you try to sell it.

Modern vehicles have lots of electronics that operate functions such as the dashboard and warning lights. If the car is showing a 4WD light when it's not actually in 4WD, then there's an electrical glitch somewhere in the system.

But the fact that it occurs in tandem with a second fault (the incorrect speedo reading) makes us wonder if you're not looking at something as fundamental as a bad earth somewhere on the car. Electricity can't flow if the circuit isn't earthed, and this is a common source of problems like the one you're seeing. A good auto electrician should be able to sort both problems with simple test gear. If not, a scan of the vehicle's systems may throw up the answer.

Many diesel engines don't appreciate being run out of fuel and will exhibit this behaviour if you allow them to run dry. That's because a lot of diesels have a fuel system that doesn't automatically prime itself and start pumping fuel once it's run dry.

As a result, some diesel cars have a hand primer under the bonnet that allows you to prime the diesel fuel pump and get going again. But modern ones like your Mazda often don't, and priming them involves a specific procedure to get the fresh fuel from the tank to the engine. Most workshops will be able to carry out this job for you, but simply continuing to crank the engine with your fingers crossed will do nothing more than flatten the battery.

This sounds like another one of pesky electrical problems which occur but don't really create havoc beyond making you wonder why it's happening. In many cases, this sort of problem can be caused by a poor earth somewhere on the car or even a chafed wire that is short-circuiting and turning random lights on and off.

But it could also be a symptom of something more serious with the car's electrical systems, so an electronic scan of the vehicle should be your next move. That will rule out a lot of things and also possibly pin-point the problem.

Your owner's manual should give you a bit of insight here, but often, functions such as these can be turned on and off via menus within the car's infotainment system or its switchgear.

What's probably happened is that the car's battery has been disconnected at some point during the servicing procedure and the car has reverted to what's known as factory settings. If there's no provision for turning the warning buzzer back on, I'd take it back to the servicing workshop, as something has been altered to disable the buzzer.

Cars have never been more dependent on their electrical systems than they are today. Sometimes, changing a dead battery can lead to the sorts of problems you've noted, and while it could be something more mechanical, there's one thing you can try at home before phoning the mechanic.

Disconnect the battery and leave the car for at least half an hour. Then, reconnect it, start the engine and go for a drive of at least 30 minutes. That will usually be enough to perform what's called a reset and may solve your problems.

If not, you need to have the car scanned at a workshop to see what problems the on-board computer has identified.

That actually sounds like a ripper deal to us. Getting any kind of a discount in 2023 when supply-chain problems that have created more demand than supply of many new cars is increasingly uncommon. The eye-watering cost is the dealer delivery charge which is generally higher than it's ever been and reflects that demand from buyers who will pay it to secure the car they want. Some dealers won't negotiate on this cost, others are more inclined to sharpen their pencil to get you over the line.

Also, many of the additional costs you've listed are government mandated and are not negotiable. Those include the stamp-duty and CTP fee as well as the registration charge. Add those to the base price and you wind up with $45,457, meaning you're getting the dealer delivery fee and all those extras for less than $600. That seems pretty darn good in 2023.

The clue here might be in the fact that this problem occurs when you drive slowly for an extended distance. This could suggest that something (engine or transmission perhaps) is becoming hot and the vehicle is switching to limp-home mode to avoid damaging any components. Also, it could be a dodgy sensor which is simply making the vehicle 'think' it's getting hot.

It sounds counter-intuitive, but driving slowly can lead to overheating as there's less air flowing over the radiator and/or oil coolers to whisk temperature away. When you stop the car and re-start it, the on-board computer goes back to its default settings and away you go again until the sensors detect more heat build-up.

With that in mind, I'd be checking the radiators and oil coolers for a build up of dust, mud, leaves and other rubbish which could be blocking airflow. But before you start replacing sensors and other components, have the car scanned (by a mechanic) to see if any fault codes make themselves apparent.

The rule of thumb states that if the engine fires on starting fluid sprayed down the intake, but won't run on the fuel in its tank, the first thing to check is the fuel pump. Just because there was some fuel present when you cracked the seal on the fuel injector, does not necessarily mean that there's enough of it or the fuel pressure is sufficient to start the engine.

Modern common-rail diesel engines use very sophisticated fuel systems which use super-high pressure. Without a pump to build up to this pressure, the injector won't deliver the right amount of fuel for successful running. But you should also check the operation of the glow-plugs as well as the condition of the fuel filters. An electronic scan is also a good idea at this point, before you start replacing expensive bits and pieces.

Be extra careful fiddling with engines like this one, especially if you're messing about with the injectors and fuel system. The inherent pressures are so high, that a leak can act like a water-jet cutter; sufficiently powerful to remove a finger.