Ford Problems

This is a bit of a weird one because the only difference between using manual mode and fully-automatic mode is that you tell the gearbox what gear to be in in the former, and the gearbox decides for itself in the latter. Beyond that, the exact same process is going on inside the transmission. Which means, I’d expect the same problems to be apparent regardless of what mode you were driving in.

Your gearbox is doing what’s known as `slipping’ or `flaring’ and that can be caused by a number of things. Those include low transmission-fluid level, low fluid-pressure caused by a worn pump or accumulators, a damaged torque converter or worn out bands and clutches inside the gearbox. The low fluid level is easy to check and address, but anything else probably points to either a new gearbox of a rebuild of the current one.

The wild card is the difference behaviour between auto and manual mode, so perhaps it’s a problem with the electronic solenoids that control the shifts. It could be that the gearbox is not shifting properly in automatic and will only behave when you prod it via the manual-shift mode. A scan at a workshop might give a few clues in this regard.

Sometimes, the codes spat out by the on-board computer can be quite vague. But this isn’t one of them; in fact, it’s quite specific. Checking the code against the translation reveals that code 0705 refers to a faulty signal from the transmission-range sensor. This sensor sends information to the engine and/or transmission control module and is responsible for those computer modules knowing what the driver is asking for via the gear selector. Without a correct Park or Neutral signal from the transmission-range sensor, the engine won’t crank and start. Beyond that, the gearbox may select the incorrect gear thanks to the incorrect signal being sent. Replacing the range sensor is probably the fix you need to look at.

The problem could be in the gearbox selectors which, as their name suggests, are the mechanical linkages that allow you to select each gear. If the selectors for fifth gear are worn or incorrectly adjusted, you could have a situation where the car is not fully selecting fifth gear, allowing it to pop out of gear when you load the transmission.

The other possibility, of course, is that, at 428,000km (a pretty good innings for one of these vehicles) the actual internal bits of the gearbox are so worn that the thing is jumping out of fifth in protest. If that’s the case, an inspected, second-hand replacement gearbox from a wrecking yard would be the most cost-effective solution.

The most common cause of this type of problem is a worn oil pump in the transmission. An automatic works on hydraulic pressure and if the pump is worn, it often can’t muster the necessary pressure to effect a gearshift when it’s cold. Once it’s warmed up, everything moves a bit more freely and the car will select Reverse. The fact that there’s still a gear-selection delay even when warmed up is the giveaway that this is the case.

If you continue to drive it like this, it will possibly go for some months. But you need to be aware that the faulty oil pump is not only making shifting difficult, it’s also potentially starving the bearings of the lubrication they need. The end is nigh, I’m afraid. You could take a punt and have the gearbox serviced with new fluid and a clean filter, but, on balance, the pump is likely to be the culprit and is also indicative of general transmission wear and tear

A clutch pedal that won’t return is either sticking (due to friction) has a broken or weak return spring or is throwing out beyond the point it should (like an athlete hyper-extending their knee). How that’s related to the gear-lever locking up is anybody’s guess, but it’s true that if the clutch isn’t disengaging properly (which could be the case if the clutch pedal isn’t doing its thing properly) then the car will refuse to select gears and that can feel like the lever is jammed. Switch the engine off and see if the gears will then select. If so, I’d say the clutch is not disengaging and you may have to pull it all apart again to find out why.

This model Mazda BT-50 and its Ford Ranger counterpart (they’re the same vehicle under the skin) have had their share of automatic transmission problems over the years. There are known problems with the gears in the oil pump which are prone to wear, valve-body problems and a fault with the output shaft speed sensor which can also fail, forcing the gearbox back into first gear at relatively high speeds. All these problems could be contributing factors in the problems you’re seeing.

While EGR valves often need replacement (and I’m not disputing that yours did) I don’t imagine the EGR valve would have had anything to do with your gearbox problem. It’s not uncommon – nor unreasonable - for workshops to charge a diagnosis fee (it involves workshop time, after all) but servicing the transmission alone won’t fix it if it has any of the problems I’ve listed above.

That’s a very interesting question and one that my instinct suggested would be a yes. That’s because the Focus from those two model-years was based on the same platform and that the differences between the sedan and hatchback variants were all from the A-pillar back. And so it is. I checked with a major windscreen replacement network and, yes, the two vehicles have a windscreen with exactly the same part number. So you should be good to go.

A miss is fairly common on these engines and is usually tracked back to either a dud spark-plug or a crook ignition lead. If you’ve already changed the plugs, I’d suggest checking the ignition leads for excessive resistance. The other major source of misses in these engines is usually a fault with the coil-packs. Swapping these for another set is a pretty easy way to check whether they’re the culprits. Don’t forget, however, that a miss can also be fuel or mechanical-related, but experience with these engines shows that the ignition system is often the cause.

According to government websites, the 2001 Falcon six-cylinder can, indeed, use E10 fuel. You may find, however, that you use a little more E10 over 100km than normal unleaded, so the savings at the pump might not be as marked as they seem on paper.

The best way to test the operation of a fuel-injected car’s sensors is to have the vehicle scanned at a workshop with the necessary computer gear. The error codes that are revealed will tell you exactly what’s going on and save you the time and money of replacing bits and pieces until you find the actual culprit.

As for your symptoms, black smoke from the exhaust usually indicates a too-rich air:fuel mixture which could be the result of worn injectors, incorrect fuel pressure or a faulty temperature sensor. There are other causes, but those are the ones I’d investigate first. After a scan, of course.

For a few years from 2005, Nissan sold two types of Navaras in Australia - the all-new big D40 series and the old D22 that dated back from the latter 1990s. 

If you want an inexpensive, compact and hard-wearing truck that's reliable but not very refined nor comfortable, the old D22 is it. Its 3.0L turbo-diesel has proven strong and reliable in this application and the Nissan has a reputation for being as tough as nails.

The larger and newer D40, meanwhile, is the much better choice if space, safety and refinement are priorities, and remained a class-leading proposition right up until the current-generation Ford Ranger, Mazda BT-50 and Volkswagen Amarok all moved the pick-up truck game on in 2011. The Spanish-built ST-X is the choice grade, especially in turbo-diesel and 4x4 guise.

The Navara is considered a reliable and dependable truck, but many are also workhorses that lead tough lives and are often neglected or mistreated. If you're after one, please consider having it checked out first by an experienced mechanic.

Known issues include fuel-injection failure, roof rust, premature clutch wear in manual  models, electronics issues, turbo-charger failures and sagging rear springs.

Such problems can apply to any similar truck, so don't be too put off by the D40 Navara. It's a firm used-truck favourite for good reason.