Ford Problems

The problem could be caused by a whole lot of things, Bill. Have the vehicle scanned to see if any error codes crop up which could then lead you to something like a dodgy fuel pump, worn injectors, a leak in the fuel system somewhere or even a crook sensor that is feeding incorrect information to the computer. To be honest, I’m suspecting a broken throttle-position sensor (TPS), especially as you need to floor the throttle to get the engine to start. Without the TPS working properly, the computer has no way of knowing how much fuel to inject into the engine.

This is a bit of a weird one because the only difference between using manual mode and fully-automatic mode is that you tell the gearbox what gear to be in in the former, and the gearbox decides for itself in the latter. Beyond that, the exact same process is going on inside the transmission. Which means, I’d expect the same problems to be apparent regardless of what mode you were driving in.

Your gearbox is doing what’s known as `slipping’ or `flaring’ and that can be caused by a number of things. Those include low transmission-fluid level, low fluid-pressure caused by a worn pump or accumulators, a damaged torque converter or worn out bands and clutches inside the gearbox. The low fluid level is easy to check and address, but anything else probably points to either a new gearbox of a rebuild of the current one.

The wild card is the difference behaviour between auto and manual mode, so perhaps it’s a problem with the electronic solenoids that control the shifts. It could be that the gearbox is not shifting properly in automatic and will only behave when you prod it via the manual-shift mode. A scan at a workshop might give a few clues in this regard.

Sometimes, the codes spat out by the on-board computer can be quite vague. But this isn’t one of them; in fact, it’s quite specific. Checking the code against the translation reveals that code 0705 refers to a faulty signal from the transmission-range sensor. This sensor sends information to the engine and/or transmission control module and is responsible for those computer modules knowing what the driver is asking for via the gear selector. Without a correct Park or Neutral signal from the transmission-range sensor, the engine won’t crank and start. Beyond that, the gearbox may select the incorrect gear thanks to the incorrect signal being sent. Replacing the range sensor is probably the fix you need to look at.

The problem could be in the gearbox selectors which, as their name suggests, are the mechanical linkages that allow you to select each gear. If the selectors for fifth gear are worn or incorrectly adjusted, you could have a situation where the car is not fully selecting fifth gear, allowing it to pop out of gear when you load the transmission.

The other possibility, of course, is that, at 428,000km (a pretty good innings for one of these vehicles) the actual internal bits of the gearbox are so worn that the thing is jumping out of fifth in protest. If that’s the case, an inspected, second-hand replacement gearbox from a wrecking yard would be the most cost-effective solution.

It sounds very much like a computer problem rather than a hardware issue. When you switch the engine off and then back on again, you’re actually rebooting the on-board computer. I’d be trying a replacement ECU module (borrowed from another Ranger) to see if that fixes the problem. The problem is that because the reboot fixes the issue (temporarily) it might also re-set the computer’s memory, meaning it can’t `remember’ what went wrong and, therefore, won’t offer up the correct fault codes when you scan it. That said, I’d definitely give it a scan and see what pops up.

The most common cause of this type of problem is a worn oil pump in the transmission. An automatic works on hydraulic pressure and if the pump is worn, it often can’t muster the necessary pressure to effect a gearshift when it’s cold. Once it’s warmed up, everything moves a bit more freely and the car will select Reverse. The fact that there’s still a gear-selection delay even when warmed up is the giveaway that this is the case.

If you continue to drive it like this, it will possibly go for some months. But you need to be aware that the faulty oil pump is not only making shifting difficult, it’s also potentially starving the bearings of the lubrication they need. The end is nigh, I’m afraid. You could take a punt and have the gearbox serviced with new fluid and a clean filter, but, on balance, the pump is likely to be the culprit and is also indicative of general transmission wear and tear

A clutch pedal that won’t return is either sticking (due to friction) has a broken or weak return spring or is throwing out beyond the point it should (like an athlete hyper-extending their knee). How that’s related to the gear-lever locking up is anybody’s guess, but it’s true that if the clutch isn’t disengaging properly (which could be the case if the clutch pedal isn’t doing its thing properly) then the car will refuse to select gears and that can feel like the lever is jammed. Switch the engine off and see if the gears will then select. If so, I’d say the clutch is not disengaging and you may have to pull it all apart again to find out why.

This model Mazda BT-50 and its Ford Ranger counterpart (they’re the same vehicle under the skin) have had their share of automatic transmission problems over the years. There are known problems with the gears in the oil pump which are prone to wear, valve-body problems and a fault with the output shaft speed sensor which can also fail, forcing the gearbox back into first gear at relatively high speeds. All these problems could be contributing factors in the problems you’re seeing.

While EGR valves often need replacement (and I’m not disputing that yours did) I don’t imagine the EGR valve would have had anything to do with your gearbox problem. It’s not uncommon – nor unreasonable - for workshops to charge a diagnosis fee (it involves workshop time, after all) but servicing the transmission alone won’t fix it if it has any of the problems I’ve listed above.

That’s a very interesting question and one that my instinct suggested would be a yes. That’s because the Focus from those two model-years was based on the same platform and that the differences between the sedan and hatchback variants were all from the A-pillar back. And so it is. I checked with a major windscreen replacement network and, yes, the two vehicles have a windscreen with exactly the same part number. So you should be good to go.

The best way to test the operation of a fuel-injected car’s sensors is to have the vehicle scanned at a workshop with the necessary computer gear. The error codes that are revealed will tell you exactly what’s going on and save you the time and money of replacing bits and pieces until you find the actual culprit.

As for your symptoms, black smoke from the exhaust usually indicates a too-rich air:fuel mixture which could be the result of worn injectors, incorrect fuel pressure or a faulty temperature sensor. There are other causes, but those are the ones I’d investigate first. After a scan, of course.