Ford Problems

Ford did, in fact, upgrade the Territory’s power-steering system to an electric set-up in the name of improved fuel economy, but that didn’t happen until mid-2011. As such, Rodney, your 2008 Territory still uses conventional hydraulic power-steering.

While the fuel consumption benefits of electric power-assistance are clear, keener drivers generally prefer a conventional hydraulic set-up for the extra feel and feedback it offers through the steering wheel. But it’s a dying technology and just about all new car designs feature electrical assistance.

Some Territories of around this vintage experienced a problem with a dud output-speed sensor within the automatic transmission. The sensor could cause an intermittent fault where the transmission wasn’t telling the rest of the car how fast it was going and, in some cases, could cause the transmission to suddenly shift back to first gear. That sounds a lot like your symptoms. Ford reckons it had this problem fixed by early 2013, well before your car was built, but I reckon it’d still be worth a check of the sensor’s operation via an electronic scan.

The other recurring problem with the Territory’s transmission was when the transmission cooler failed internally and the gearbox oil and the coolant became mixed. That destroyed the gearbox both mechanically and electronically in pretty quick time and if that’s your problem, a rebuilt or replacement transmission is the only fix.

This model has a terrible record in terms of engine overheating. Even the petrol engine version has been recalled by Ford Australia after overheating and engine-bay fires were reported both here and in other markets.

The diesel doesn’t seem as likely to catch fire, but there’s definitely a trend for it to present with exactly the same problems and outcomes as your vehicle. Those symptoms include a lack of warning that anything is amiss, followed by a total engine melt-down with destructive consequences. As of right now, Ford hasn’t recalled the diesel-engined Kuga for this problem, but it’s definitely a thing around the world.

In your case, it’s critical to know whether the problem was pointed out to a Ford dealership within the three-year warranty period. If that’s the case, then you have what’s known as a pre-existing problem which means, if the dealer was made aware of the fault within the factory warranty period, then it’s a warranty case. No questions.

Back when your car was brand-new, it carried a three-year warranty, so, you need to work backwards from the date you first notified the dealer of a problem (when the vehicle was topped up with coolant but not diagnosed further) to see if that falls within the first three years of that car’s registered life. Even if it works out a little beyond the warranty period, you’d have a strong case for a pro-rata contribution from Ford for the cost of repairs, since Australian Consumer law can, in some case cases, over-ride factory warranty restrictions. Your case will be even stronger if you have proof of a Ford dealership service history.

Even then, there could be some wrangling on the part of the dealer, particularly in terms of what actually caused the engine failure. But I’d be talking to Ford Australia’s customer service division to try to work out a solution.

You need to keep using an oil that is compatible with LPG as this fuel places different stresses on the lubricating oil compared with an engine burning petrol or diesel. Provided you stick with the correct grade and API rating and choose a known brand (not the Brand-X supermarket stuff) you should be fine. Don’t forget to change the filter every time you change the oil.

Your car requires an octane rating of 91 RON and, to be honest, the biggest difference in using the more expensive 95 or even 98 RON brew will probably be to your wallet, not the car. Changing to a higher octane rating is not really a scientific way of fixing problems like rough running, and there’s probably another reason for the poor performance.

I’d be scanning the car electronically for a clue to what’s going wrong with it, but bear in mind rough running can be caused by lots of things. If you really want to pursue the fuel you’re using as a potential cause of the problem, rather than change to 95 RON, change the service station you use. Sometimes, a service station can have contaminated underground tanks and this can cause all sorts of running problems by the time the dirty fuel is in your tank. Another hint: If you see a fuel tanker delivering fuel to a service station as you pull up to refuel, find another service station. The fresh fuel being pumped into the underground tank will stir up all sorts of nasties that would otherwise settle at the bottom of the tank. By filling up immediately after the station’s tanks have been filled, you stand a good chance of buying a tankful of dirty fuel.

To connect your phone to the Ford Territory Bluetooth system, start by making sure your phone has its Bluetooth switched on and is in discoverable mode. You also need the vehicle to be in Park with the engine running; having the ignition in accessory mode is not sufficient, the engine must be running for phone pairing to take place.

On the stereo info-screen in the Territory, touch the Phone button, followed by the Add a Phone button. You should next receive a message that the pairing process has begun and a six-digit code will be displayed. Enter that code into your phone and the pairing process should complete. You’ll know it has when the phone’s name is displayed on the car’s screen as being added successfully.

If more than one phone is paired with the car, the system will ask if you wish to make the current phone your favourite. If you do, this is the phone that will be automatically paired with if more than one paired phone is detected.

The system will then ask you if you wish to automatically download your phone’s contact book to the car. If you touch Yes, this process will begin and could take a few minutes depending on how many contacts you have.

For more instructions on how to play music through the system, more setup options, and troubleshooting problems, refer to the vehicle’s owner’s manual.

It’s nice to see somebody taking the long view when it comes to vehicle ownership. Cars have become an increasingly throw-away commodity, and it seems a shame that all that engineering and development doesn’t get a longer lifespan.

The BT-50 and Ranger you’ve nominated are, fundamentally, the same vehicles under the skin, so the choice will come down to the options fitted and the trim level that combines the features you want in one package. As a rule of thumb, the five-cylinder engine option will do a better job of hauling a slide-on camper into a headwind and will always be worth more as a trade-in (although that’s clearly not a concern for you).

If you’re planning to keep the vehicle up to 300,000km, there’s a very good chance you’ll need to spend some money on the vehicle’s direct injection system at some point. A set of injectors and filters as well as an injector pump are all likely to need replacement over the distance you’ve nominated. That said, all modern common rail diesels seem to be in the same boat here, but if you’re prepared to service the vehicle religiously, then those expenses should be kept to a minimum. Take it as read, though, that a modern turbo-diesel will not appreciate neglect in this area.

The other thing to watch out for is a vehicle that has already had a hard working life, as these dual-cabs often have. The tray-back you want also means the vehicle is likely to have been a work truck rather than a lifestyle accessory, so have any prospect checked independently before handing over the money.

The transmission in this era of Ford Territories was notorious for suffering a failed transmission oil cooler. If that happened, the coolant would often mix with the transmission’s fluid, causing massive damage to both the electronics and the mechanical components of the transmission. In severe cases, the vehicle could lose drive altogether. A replacement transmission is the usual fix, so it’s an expensive failure.

But the first check to make is of another part of the Territory that is also known for giving trouble. In this case, though, the end result is nothing like as dramatic as it’s caused by damaged or poorly adjusted (loose) selector linkages. A quick tighten or adjustment will have the transmission operating properly again, but you need to ascertain what’s causing your problem in the first place. Don’t forget to check that there’s actually sufficient fluid inside the transmission, too, as low fluid can cause a loss of drive. Most workshops will be able to diagnose either problem pretty quickly.

You’re on the right track, Don, with your guess that the whistling noise has something to do with the turbocharger’s bearing. But unfortunately, if you’re right and it’s the turbo bearing that’s making the whistling noise (and I agree with your theory) then a new or rebuilt turbocharger is the only real fix. Turbos have a hard life, dealing with extremes of temperature as well as the requirement to accelerate from almost nothing to anything up to 250,000rpm. The bearings that allow for this are sealed units and – generally – are not serviceable.

But you might be lucky: A lack of turbo boost can be caused by many things, so check the basics like a loose boost pipe before you start tearing the engine apart.

Steering wheel controls are very convenient but, generally speaking, they’re not something that can be retro-fitted. Even if there was higher specification Focus with steering wheel controls as a factory fitment (and the Ghia version of your car did) it’s unlikely your car would have the wiring and electronics to adapt the steering wheel from that model. Even if the wheel could be physically fitted, the functions wouldn’t be accessible to the rest of the car.