Ford Problems

Are you having problems with your Ford? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Ford issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Ford in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.

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Latest 2021-2026 Ford F-150 recall impacts 7000 units with potential trailer braking issue
By Laura Berry · 23 Apr 2026
Ford Australia has recalled the F-150 full-size pick-up due to a software fault that could prevent a trailer’s brakes from operating while towing.The notice issued by Ford on April 22, 2026, at vehiclerecalls.gov.au  lists the vehicle identification numbers (VINs) of the affected 6832 F-150 trucks made between 2021-2026.According to the statement, the fault is software related and involves the Trailer Module.“Due to a software defect, the Trailer Module (TRM) may lose communication with the vehicle when a trailer is connected. This can result in a loss of trailer braking performance and the turn signal lights not operating as intended,” the notice reads.“A loss of trailer control whilst driving and/or signal lights not operating as intended, may increase the risk of an accident causing serious injury or death to vehicle occupants and/or other road users."Owners will be contacted by Ford Australia in writing requesting they contact an authorised Ford dealer to have the fault rectified with a free software update.This is the latest in a series of recalls which have plagued Ford’s F-150, with the previous recall being for a fire risk due to fuel vapours.
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Used Ford Escape review: 2020-2023
By David Morley · 14 Jul 2026
Ford’s Escape SUV has had a bit of a chequered past in terms of how it was marketed and what it represented. But, fundamentally, the version we saw launched here in 2020 as the fourth-gen Escape (the ZH model in Ford-speak) was more or less a third-generation Ford Kuga, engineered in Germany and built in Spain.Confused? Wait till you see the model line-up. Ford went against years of tradition by dumping established names such as Ambiente and Trend and kicked the new Escape off with the model simply badged FWD (front-wheel drive). From there, the range flowed through the ST-Line FWD and ST-Line AWD (all-wheel drive), then the rather grandly named Vignale (Ford picked up the Vignale badge as part of its buyout of De Tomaso in the 1970s) in both FWD and AWD forms.And shortly after the initial launch, Ford followed up with a model dubbed ST-Line PHEV which, as the name suggests, featured a plug-in hybrid driveline and was front-wheel drive.The vehicle itself was a five-seat mid-sized SUV that was actually pretty sporty to look at and, even in entry-level form, provided pretty stunning performance thanks to a racy driveline. All variants apart form the PHEV used a 2.0-litre petrol engine with a turbocharger for a rather stirring 183kW of power and lots of torque. Both FWD and AWD versions used the same eight-speed conventional automatic transmission.The PHEV was the odd-one-out, with its normally aspirated 2.5-litre four-cylinder engine and electric motor accounting for 167kW and driving through a continuously variable transmission (CVT).Far and away the biggest compliment the Escape gets is for its performance. That torquey turbo motor puts out plenty of power, meaning performance is pretty impressive as a result. So, if a mid-sized SUV with five seats and some decent straight-line stomp is what you’re after, then the Escape is indeed very possibly what you’re looking for.Beyond that, however, the Escape is a bit me-too and kind of disappeared into a sea of similarly sized, similarly priced SUVs from literally dozens of carmakers.The Escape doesn’t have a perfect reliability record, but it is better than the model it replaced. It’s still a pretty complex piece of machinery, though, so there are a few things to check before buying. A complete service record is also crucial to long-term reliability, as it is with any make or model.The news here is better than for previous Escapes, but still not perfect. That’s mainly because the old EcoBoost 2.0-litre engine was known for catastrophic failures and engine fires due to a flawed basic design. That engine had too little sealing surface area on the head gasket which meant that coolant could leak into the cylinders. When that happened, the engine could overheat to the point of causing a fire, or simply destroy itself in the process.But post-2020 versions of the engine used a more robust crankcase design that eliminated that problem.But the hybrid Escape wasn’t so lucky and has experienced problems with its high-voltage battery which could present a fire risk if it was one of the ones that had an inbuilt flaw in its construction. If you were unlucky enough to buy one of those (and there was no way to tell in the showroom) the flaw could have produced an internal short-circuit that may have caused a fire or complete battery failure down the track. The advice from Ford to owners of these cars was to not charge the battery beyond 80 per cent and to only drive in EV Auto mode until the car could be checked (see recalls section).Aside from that, the Escape has also been known to suffer cracked exhaust manifolds (which mounts the turbocharger) and premature fuel pump failures. Some owners have also experienced carbon build up in the engine’s valves. The Escape’s engine uses direct-injection so the valves are not `rinsed’ off by the fuel as it’s injected into the engine. A build up of carbon is often the result, but to be fair, this is not a Ford-specific thing and many other makes and models are similarly affected.Like a lot of complex vehicles, the Escape has had its share of safety recalls for owners to deal with. For the full story, you can check out https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/ and search for this model, but in the meantime, here’s a thumbnail look at those recalls.The first was for early examples which may have had a fault in the engine-bay airflow management system. Shutters under the nose of the car that were designed to open and close as necessary may not have opened when they should have, and that posed a fire risk if there had been a fuel or oil spill at the same time.A batch of 2021-built cars were recalled to check the bonding of the glass panel of the panoramic sunroof which could detach at speed.PHEV Escapes built until 2024 were recalled to check for a manufacturing fault that could have led to a fire if the engine suddenly blew up (literally). Equally seriously, a batch of 2021 cars were recalled to check for excess play in the steering which could have led to steering failure if unchecked. The Escape was also recalled to check the reversing camera system which could glitch out and leave the screen blank when drivers most needed the system.Then there was the high-voltage battery problem we’ve already touched on. Apparently, a manufacturing flaw in the battery itself could lead to thermal runaway and an intense fire. It’s hard to imagine any Escape PHEV not having been checked for this problem by now, but it’s still worth making sure. You can do that at a Ford dealership.Like a lot of cars, Ford gradually worked the bugs out of the Escape, so the best one now (and the one least affected by recall notices) is a late-model example. The later the build date, the better, more bug-free the car is likely to be.You’ll see the odd Escape for sale with more than 160,000km, but that will definitely be in the minority. Most for sale now have travelled closer to 100,000km or even less, suggesting there’s plenty of life left in them. There are even a few for sale online that are showing super-low mileage, suggesting they may actually be leftover demonstrator models, even though the Escape officially left showrooms back at the end of 2024.As a car ages, the difference between the cheapest and most expensive variants when brand new starts to shrink dramatically. With that in mind, the Vignale is the one to look for now. Do you really need an all-wheel-drive Escape when a front drive will do the job? Not really, but the all-wheel-drive option helps tame that feisty little engine’s power delivery and gives a safety margin on most road surfaces, wet or dry.The one we’d avoid would be the PHEV. Aside from the longer list of potential faults, it just never seemed as resolved or sorted as a modern PHEV should have been. And you’ll be missing out on that ripper little turbo motor which is clearly the highlight of the entire car.Prices start at about $15,000 for cars in good condition and with relatively low kilometres showing. You’ll be buying a front-drive car for that sort of money, although you might get lucky and spot an all-wheel-drive version for under $20,000.A high-spec all-wheel-drive, late-model Escape is yours for about $30,000 or more, and should have fewer than 50,000km on its odometer. The best value is probably somewhere between those two extremes, and look for a car with some factory warranty remaining. That’s great peace of mind.Ford has one of the biggest dealer networks in Australia and, thanks to the long history of Ford vehicles in this country, many of those are situated in regional areas. As such, repair and service parts should never really be a problem, even though the Escape is something of an orphan in this market.Parts are readily available through traditional retailers and there’s good online support, too. Servicing can also be handled by any decent independent workshop which should also be able to stamp the service handbook to protect any remaining new-car warranty.The Escape was largely overlooked by buyers, mainly because the mid-sized SUV market was, and is, such a crowded space. Plenty of competition from other established badges such as Mazda, Toyota and Nissan, as well as the march of the Chinese brands, meant that the Escape was ignored by many.The result was that, even in its best year (2020) Ford sold just over 2000 Escapes; a long way short of the 35,000 sales recorded by the Toyota RAV 4 the same year. And that’s why even the big online sales sites now have less than 100 ZH Escapes for sale right now.
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My 2005 Ford Territory won't start
Answered by David Morley · 19 Jun 2026

This is a pretty common fault on modern cars and it will usually lead a mechanic to one line of enquiry. And that is a check of the fuel pump.

Electric fuel pumps have a finite lifespan and when their time is up, they just stop. So the next time you try to start the car, it will turn over normally, but there’s just no fuel getting to the engine.

So try this: turn the ignition key until you get dashboard lights and then listen carefully. You should be able to hear a faint buzz or thrum that is the sound of the fuel pump whirring away. If you can’t hear it, that’s a strong suggestion that it has died. The other thing to try – if you’re a bit more mechanically minded – is to disconnect the engine’s intake trunking and spray some starter fluid down the engine’s throat. If it fires and then dies straight away (once the starter fluid has been consumed) you’re definitely looking like a new fuel pump is in your future.

This problem could also be about a hundred other things, of course, but eventual fuel pump failures on cars like yours are about as certain as death and taxes.

I want a sleek seven-seater.
Answered by David Morley · 15 Apr 2026

It all depends on how you define long and bulky. But no seven-seater is going to be exactly small, is it? That’s because, to accommodate the third row of seats necessary to seat seven a vehicle physically has to be a certain length and there’s just no getting around that.

But I take your point; a lot of the seven-seat SUVs out there do seem pretty big. Again, however, that’s not a bad thing if you plan to fill all three rows of seats and still have some room left for luggage. The smaller seven-seaters aren’t all that good at this as the third row gobbles up the luggage space, making these cars best for those who only need seven seats on an occasional basis. If that’s your situation there are lots of mid-sized seven seaters around, but they’re pretty much all SUVs.

And while it goes against your preference for a smaller vehicle, the very best seven-seaters aren’t SUVs. They’re usually people-mover vans such as the Ford Tourneo, Kia Carnival and VW ID. Buzz. In fact, some of these even seat eight. They’re also a lot better for accessing the rearmost row of seats and they’ll still have lots of luggage space even with all seats occupied. And, yes, they look big, but that’s physics for you.

In the meantime, you could look at slightly less bulky options including the Hyundai Santa Fe, Kia Sorento, Mazda CX-80 and Toyota Kluger. There’s also been speculation recently that Subaru’s seven-seat Tribeca might make a return to the Australian market.

My 1995 Ford Fairmont Ghia won't start... sometimes.
Answered by David Morley · 13 May 2026

The problem could be to do with the ignition barrel, or it could be a hundred other things including a poor earth somewhere on the car. But my experience with Fords of this vintage suggests the first place I’d look would be what’s called the inhibitor switch.

This is a small switch that tells the car whether the transmission is in Park or Neutral before allowing the engine to turn over or start. If this switch isn’t relaying that information, the engine won’t so much as budge. And the fault is often intermittent.

So, try this. Instead of trying to start the car in Park, move the selector to Neutral and hit the key again. Often the inhibitor switch that isn’t recognising Park will still detect Neutral and you’ll be on your way.

On this model, the sensor in question is located on the crankcase (not the cylinder head as many are). You’ll find it on the driver’s side of the crankcase, below the intake manifold. Replacing it involves removing the old one by screwing it out, and screwing the new one in. But there’s a bit of a process for this, and if you’re not familiar with this type of job, it’s probably one for the experts.

The sensor is located between cylinders three and four and it’s located pretty close to the manifold. The good news is that you don’t need to remove the manifold to access the sensor; you can get to it by going into the engine bay through the wheel-well.

Don’t forget that you’ll lose some coolant in the process, so that will need to be topped up with the correct type afterwards. Remember, too, that the new sensor won’t work unless you correctly reattach the wiring plug that connects the sensor to the rest of the car. This area can be pretty grimy and muddy in a vehicle like this, so cleaning everything off first is a good idea.

How do I clean the sunroof drain tubes on my 2015 Ford Kuga?
Answered by David Morley · 10 Jul 2026

This is actually a job you can tackle yourself. The holes should become visible when you open the sunroof and look at the mechanism from outside the car. Usually, there’s a drainage hole at each corner of the opening in the roof, within the tracks or slide mechanism. With a length of malleable wire, you can simple poke that down into each hole and unclog the drainage holes in just a few minutes.

You can then check your work by pouring a small amount of water (using a small funnel is best) into each hole and making sure that water comes out underneath the car, and not into the sunroof opening. This is a surprisingly common complaint, and you could also take the car to a workshop for the same fix if you’re not confident yourself. The workshop may use compressed air to achieve the same result, but the science is the same.

My 2007 Ford Territory SR has a problem with its door locks
Answered by David Morley · 30 Jul 2026

Any time an Australian-made Ford of this vintage has a problem with its door locks, suspicions will turn to the car’s body computer. This is a known fault in these vehicles and will probably require a new body computer as well as somebody who knows what they’re doing to fit it.

The body computer controls all sorts of functions including the wipers, light, security system, climate control, entertainment system, and the central locking.

But before you book the car in to the auto electrician, try this: Disconnect the battery and leave it overnight. Next morning, reconnect the battery and see if that has sorted the problem. In some cases, this will reset the computer (kind of like a return to factory settings function) and the car will work properly again. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t and the results aren’t always permanent. But it’s free and definitely worth a try.

You’ve probably already figured out that the two codes mean you potentially have two separate problems, but either one of them could cause your car to switch to limp home mode. In any case, they both need to be fixed.

So, let’s start with the PO118 code. This suggests you have a faulty engine coolant temperature sensor. When this fails, the computer isn’t getting the information it needs to know whether the engine is cold or warmed up. As a result, the fuel-air mixture will be all over the place and the vehicle will possibly use more fuel and run poorly as well as being hard to start in the morning.

The other fault code you’re seeing, PO489, is to do with the engine’s exhaust gas recirculation valve. This valve channels some of the engine’s exhaust back through the combustion chambers to reduce tailpipe emissions by burning the same gasses twice. Your car’s computer will be constantly opening and closing this valve, but it’s an electrical signal (from a sensor) that tells it when to do so. If this sensor has failed, that information won’t be getting sent to the computer and the check-engine light will come on.

Both of these faults will probably be fixed by replacing the sensors in question, but until they are replaced, the car will continue to throw fault codes and switch to limp home mode.

Since you’ve replaced the turbocharger and the boost controller, we can rule those out. But could the problem be something much simpler?

It’s possible that the plastic trunking that takes the compressed air from the turbocharger to the engine’s intake has split. When that happens, boost pressure is lost, the boost sensor detects the low boost and winds up the turbocharger to compensate and you have an on-paper overboost situation.

Then, once you’re beyond idle, the leak becomes even worse and the computer simply runs out of turbocharger capacity, at which point boost drops away. That’s preventing the engine revving properly and since there’s no sensor to tell the computer that the trunking is split and leaking, there might not be a fault code issued. Lots of black smoke from the exhaust is often (but not always) another clue that this is what’s happening.

Disclaimer: You acknowledge and agree that all answers are provided as a general guide only and should not be relied upon as bespoke advice. Carsguide is not liable for the accuracy of any information provided in the answers.
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