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Are you having problems with your Ford? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Ford issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Ford in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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It might be a case of super-fast overheating, but one would expect the temperature needle to take more than 15 seconds to go from normal to dangerously hot. You could have a broken or faulty gauge, a short-circuiting wire somewhere in the gauge’s wiring or even a temperature sender unit that is giving false readings to the gauge once it gets to a certain temperature.
The first thing to do is work out just how hot the engine really is getting. You can do this with an external temperature gauge or an infra-red thermometer that can be bought for a few dollars. Aim the infra-red beam at the top tank of the radiator, or the top radiator hose and see what reading you get. You should see a value of between 85 and 95 degrees Celsius. At which point, the engine wouldn’t appear to be overheating (provided your new thermostat is working properly).
By the way, the coolant being under pressure when the engine is at operating temperature is perfectly normal. It’s why you shouldn’t remove the cap on the expansion tank when the engine is hot as you can easily get burnt by the escaping coolant. Modern engines pressurise their cooling systems to actually raise the boiling point of the coolant and make their cooling systems more efficient.
There are lots of potential causes for this sort of behaviour, starting with an alternator that is not working properly or even a body computer that is on the way out. But these symptoms are also a classic indication of a very simple problem; a poor earth somewhere on the car. A modern car has multiple earthing points, and if one is a bit sketchy, it can throw the whole car into chaos. Flickering lights and gauges and warning lights on the dashboard are classic indicators of a bad earth. If that’s the case here, an auto electrician should be able to chase down the fault and fix it permanently.
It’s very unlikely a workshop would replace a component it fitted two years and 25,000km ago for free. Spare parts and repairs come with warranties, but generally not over that period of time or mileage. In any case, it sounds more like the clutch or flywheel has failed, rather than the master or slave clutch cylinders.
This model Ranger had a dual-mass flywheel designed to make for smoother operation, but the design cold also lead to premature clutch wear. When that happened, difficulty in selecting gears was one of the symptoms. Some owners when faced with this problem, converted their vehicles to a conventional single-mass flywheel to get around the problem in the future.
This generation Ford Focus was the first to use electro-hydraulic power-steering. As such, you can’t transpose the rack and pinion hardware from any other model; it would need to be this exact version of the Focus for everything to be compatible.
Once you’ve swapped the hardware, the electronics would also need to be coded and matched to the car’s body computer, as this is what controls the speed-sensitive variations in the steering assistance as well as functions such as the self-parking facility.
The Ecoboost petrol engine fitted to these cars has been known to give problems, usually in the form of cylinder head faults and oil leaks as a result. The open-deck cylinder block design is often quoted as the cause of these failures, and it’s not inconceivable that such a failure could cause problems with the cylinders or pistons over time.
However, no modern car can be considered acceptable if the engine fails at such a low mileage. Ford is unlikely to consider this a warranty job given the age of the vehicle, but it would be worth talking to Ford’s customer service division to see if there’s any help on offer.
For the record, the cars most affected by the cylinder head failure problem were built between 2012 and 2014, but even if you bought your car in 2015, it could have been made in 2014 and might be one of the affected ones.
There’s a fair bit going on in a Ranger’s all-wheel-drive driveline, so you can expect a bit more noise than that generated by a conventional car. It’s not uncommon, either, for one example of a car to be a bit noisier than another of the same make and model and this is all down to what’s called production tolerances where there might be slight differences in two otherwise identical components.
In the case of driveline noises, it’s often said that a noise is more of a concern when it’s heard all the time, not just at a particular speed or frequency. If the noise goes away below 80km/h and is gone by 90km/h, then it could easily be one of these transient noises that doesn’t signify much to worry about. Concern should set it, however, if these noises, their volume and/or their duration start to change or become more frequent. At that point, you can be pretty sure things are changing inside the driveline and that’s usually an early sign of components starting to wear. Keep and ear on things and if the noises change, have them checked out. If you’re still concerned, have a mechanic who knows these vehicles well take a ride in it at the problem speed and have them compare it with other Rangers.
You could scour wrecking yards (as they used to be known) for the bits and pieces you need to replace, but you would potentially be buying parts with the same – or more – wear than the ones you already have. Some things, like rubber belts, globes, tyres and filters, you just can’t trust unless they’re brand new.
Pulleys and their bearings are considered service items meaning they will eventually need to be replaced. When that time comes, the best advice is to replace them with good quality replacement parts, as that’s the only way to make sure the same problem won’t reoccur in a short space of time.
Be wary, too, of really cheap replacement parts you can order online from no-name suppliers. That’s not to say cheap parts can’t be good parts, but quality is sometimes pretty sub-standard and you won’t know that until you’ve paid for them to be fitted and they’ve subsequently failed. And getting your money back from an online seller can be next to impossible in many cases.
The Territory has a yellow check-engine light just on the outside of the tachometer’s face, around the 2000rpm mark. Perhaps that’s what you saw flickering on. This is probably nothing to worry about as the light immediately switched itself off, suggesting that whatever the problem was, it was a fleeting one.
This light is linked to the car’s onboard diagnostic system which monitors the entire car for faults and then logs them for future problem-shooting. If a problem occurs twice within a certain time-frame, then the check-engine light must illuminate to warn the driver to have the car checked and the problem fixed.
If the light reappears and stay lit up, then you need to act to have the problem found and fixed before it has the chance to do any permanent damage to the car’s driveline. As a side-note, a car with an illuminated check-engine light is technically unroadworthy.
In 1997, the Ford Transit was offered with a pair of diesel engines and a petrol engine. But the most powerful of them (the petrol) could muster up just 83kW, which, combined with the weight of the vehicle (around 1600kg) plus the weight of the camper conversion (maybe another tonne with full water tanks etc), equals paltry performance and acceleration.
The simplest thing to do is make sure the engine is tuned to its absolute best. But even then, you’re fighting an uphill (literally) battle thanks to all that mass, not to mention the appalling aerodynamics of a campervan. If you don’t mind spending a lot more money, you could upgrade the engine and transmission to a more modern one but, at that point, you’re probably better off buying a newer van altogether.
Maybe in 1997 life was quite a bit slower and your vehicle wasn’t such a mobile roadblock. That said, plenty of modern day caravaners are happy to sit at 80 or 90km/h, so maybe you just need to find the right mindset and become a bit more Zen with your camper. Of course, even if you do manage that, some driving tasks such as overtaking and merging into traffic will require plenty of forward planning and understanding from other motorists.
This sounds like a body computer problem. The body computer is the brains that controls a huge range of features but, tellingly, also the climate control and entertainment systems, as well as functions such as the wipers, central locking and much more. These computers can sometimes fail and require replacement, but sometimes they can be rebooted or 'returned to factory settings’ to use an IT term.
The easiest way to do this – not to mention the cheapest – is to disconnect the car’s battery and leave it overnight. It sounds odd, but this will sometimes force the reboot it needs to begin operating properly again. It doesn’t always works and even if it does, the effects may not be permanent. But it’s well worth a try before you take it to an auto electrician or specialist.