Ford Problems

It all depends on how you define long and bulky. But no seven-seater is going to be exactly small, is it? That’s because, to accommodate the third row of seats necessary to seat seven a vehicle physically has to be a certain length and there’s just no getting around that.

But I take your point; a lot of the seven-seat SUVs out there do seem pretty big. Again, however, that’s not a bad thing if you plan to fill all three rows of seats and still have some room left for luggage. The smaller seven-seaters aren’t all that good at this as the third row gobbles up the luggage space, making these cars best for those who only need seven seats on an occasional basis. If that’s your situation there are lots of mid-sized seven seaters around, but they’re pretty much all SUVs.

And while it goes against your preference for a smaller vehicle, the very best seven-seaters aren’t SUVs. They’re usually people-mover vans such as the Ford Tourneo, Kia Carnival and VW ID. Buzz. In fact, some of these even seat eight. They’re also a lot better for accessing the rearmost row of seats and they’ll still have lots of luggage space even with all seats occupied. And, yes, they look big, but that’s physics for you.

In the meantime, you could look at slightly less bulky options including the Hyundai Santa Fe, Kia Sorento, Mazda CX-80 and Toyota Kluger. There’s also been speculation recently that Subaru’s seven-seat Tribeca might make a return to the Australian market.

The most common cause of this behaviour is a build-up of air inside the braking system. When you push the brake pedal, the fluid is forced to push on the parts of the braking system that clamps the brake pads to the brake rotors. That creates friction, and that causes the car to slow.

But the whole system relies on that pressure and it works because the brake fluid (as a liquid) can not be compressed. But air can. So, if there’s any air that has managed to enter the braking system, it will compress when you push the pedal, and the clamping force at the rotor will not be as great.

The fix is to what’s called 'bleed' the brakes. This process removes the air and should restore braking performance. In the meantime, the absolute best advice is to not drive the car anywhere while the brakes are not in top shape. The consequences are not worth thinking about.

Have the car towed to a workshop and while it’s there, think about having the brake fluid replaced as well as having the brakes bled. Fluid should be changed every couple of years but this is a somewhat ignored procedure among many car owners.

The Territory is pretty well known in the fixit trade for having various transmission problems. Perhaps the most common was a failure of the entire transmission due to coolant from the transmission cooler mixing with the transmission fluid inside the gearbox. When that happened, the destruction was fairly complete with ruined electronics and internal hardware as the contaminated fluid could no longer satisfactorily lubricate the gearbox’s many moving parts. A whole new transmission was the usual outcome.

The first sign of this was usually milky transmission fluid (caused by the water mixing with the oil) but by then, the damage was often already done. This was more of a problem with the later model Territories with the six-speed ZF automatic transmission.

The problem could be to do with the ignition barrel, or it could be a hundred other things including a poor earth somewhere on the car. But my experience with Fords of this vintage suggests the first place I’d look would be what’s called the inhibitor switch.

This is a small switch that tells the car whether the transmission is in Park or Neutral before allowing the engine to turn over or start. If this switch isn’t relaying that information, the engine won’t so much as budge. And the fault is often intermittent.

So, try this. Instead of trying to start the car in Park, move the selector to Neutral and hit the key again. Often the inhibitor switch that isn’t recognising Park will still detect Neutral and you’ll be on your way.

On this model, the sensor in question is located on the crankcase (not the cylinder head as many are). You’ll find it on the driver’s side of the crankcase, below the intake manifold. Replacing it involves removing the old one by screwing it out, and screwing the new one in. But there’s a bit of a process for this, and if you’re not familiar with this type of job, it’s probably one for the experts.

The sensor is located between cylinders three and four and it’s located pretty close to the manifold. The good news is that you don’t need to remove the manifold to access the sensor; you can get to it by going into the engine bay through the wheel-well.

Don’t forget that you’ll lose some coolant in the process, so that will need to be topped up with the correct type afterwards. Remember, too, that the new sensor won’t work unless you correctly reattach the wiring plug that connects the sensor to the rest of the car. This area can be pretty grimy and muddy in a vehicle like this, so cleaning everything off first is a good idea.

Your mechanic is spot on. As far as the warranty laws in this country are concerned, there’s no difference in having the vehicle serviced by a Ford dealer or by a qualified independent mechanic. If there’s a problem down the track, it won’t matter who serviced the vehicle; a warranty claim is a warranty claim. Your peace of mind should be no different either way.

The only difference might be if Ford looks more favourably upon your case considering you’ve been a loyal customer and had the servicing done by your dealer. But don’t go to the bank on that, as it’s by no means a legal requirement, nor a widespread occurrence.

The first thing to do is get your mechanic to drive the vehicle when it’s hot. Arrange a time and then deliver the car at that time with everything up to full operating temperature. Otherwise, the problem isn’t going to show up when it needs to.

While there are lots and lots of things that can cause this sort of behaviour, it does sound like something in the actual powertrain is the problem. That’s because the shuddering goes away when you drop the transmission into neutral and let the vehicle coast to a stop. If the problem was a wheel, a wheel bearing, axle, brake problem or an out-of-balance driveshaft, the problem would continue even though you were coasting.

You may have a problem with something inside the transmission itself, way too much backlash somewhere in the driveline or a problem with the torque converter. Either way, you need to have your mechanic experience the problem or everybody is simply guessing.

You’ve probably already figured out that the two codes mean you potentially have two separate problems, but either one of them could cause your car to switch to limp home mode. In any case, they both need to be fixed.

So, let’s start with the PO118 code. This suggests you have a faulty engine coolant temperature sensor. When this fails, the computer isn’t getting the information it needs to know whether the engine is cold or warmed up. As a result, the fuel-air mixture will be all over the place and the vehicle will possibly use more fuel and run poorly as well as being hard to start in the morning.

The other fault code you’re seeing, PO489, is to do with the engine’s exhaust gas recirculation valve. This valve channels some of the engine’s exhaust back through the combustion chambers to reduce tailpipe emissions by burning the same gasses twice. Your car’s computer will be constantly opening and closing this valve, but it’s an electrical signal (from a sensor) that tells it when to do so. If this sensor has failed, that information won’t be getting sent to the computer and the check-engine light will come on.

Both of these faults will probably be fixed by replacing the sensors in question, but until they are replaced, the car will continue to throw fault codes and switch to limp home mode.

Since you’ve replaced the turbocharger and the boost controller, we can rule those out. But could the problem be something much simpler?

It’s possible that the plastic trunking that takes the compressed air from the turbocharger to the engine’s intake has split. When that happens, boost pressure is lost, the boost sensor detects the low boost and winds up the turbocharger to compensate and you have an on-paper overboost situation.

Then, once you’re beyond idle, the leak becomes even worse and the computer simply runs out of turbocharger capacity, at which point boost drops away. That’s preventing the engine revving properly and since there’s no sensor to tell the computer that the trunking is split and leaking, there might not be a fault code issued. Lots of black smoke from the exhaust is often (but not always) another clue that this is what’s happening.