Holden Rodeo Problems

This is very possibly a fault with the power supply to the fuel pump rather than the pump itself. The clue is that the fuel gauge started playing games just before the engine shut down. The fuel gauge is controlled by the sender which is usually in the tank with the pump. They’re often supplied power by the same wiring. So any problem with the power to the fuel pump would also possibly show up as a fuel gauge that’s making strange movements.

Start by checking the power supply to the pump, but don’t rule out a poor earth somewhere in there as well. Even though the fuse is okay, if the power wire or earth wire is loose/corroded/faulty/dirty/short-circuiting, then you may have found the problem.

Any time a vehicle with the DOHC Holden V6 is mentioned as having a starting problem or check-engine light illuminated, mechanics will often go straight to the engine’s timing chain to check its wear. That’s because this engine is notorious for such antics and, when they occur, it can often mean poor starting and the dreaded check-engine light.

However, in this case, the engine in question was an Isuzu-designed unit that doesn’t seem to have the same rash of timing chain problems. Which means you need to go back to basics and have the vehicle scanned to see if the onboard computer has logged the root cause of any problems.

The fact that the check engine light is flickering and the starting problem is an intermittent one could mean anything, but a good place to start checking would be the various earthing points around the vehicle. Bad earths are a common cause for this sort of problem.

The condition of the car’s battery is also a smart place to begin investigations. A lack of power in the battery is enough to make a lot of electronically fuel-injected vehicles throw in the towel on a random basis.

When an engine (petrol or diesel) inhales water through its air-intake system, it's never usually a good outcome. Because water is – as is any liquid – non-compressible, the engine's pistons will try to achieve that but, in the process, the engine will lock up and all sorts of internal carnage can ensue.

If you're lucky, the damage will be fixable but can still involve bent con-rods, broken pistons and bent valves. If the lock up was more severe, there's a chance that the engine block could be cracked or a con-rod has broken and punched a hole through the crankcase. Sometimes the force of the lock up is sufficient to smash the main bearing caps and throw the crankshaft out of place. In any of those latter cases, the whole engine would be considered a total loss.

But even if you've gotten away with a bent con-rod or two, you'd still need to rebuild the entire engine and, in the context of a 2004 Rodeo ute, you might find you're spending more money than the vehicle is actually worth.

A potentially better idea would be to find a good, tested second-hand engine from a wrecking yard or any other sort of damaged Rodeo and do a relatively simple heart transplant.

There was a mid-model update released on the Rodeo late in 2005. It’s probably relating to that.

The Brumby would have been a good choice 10 years ago, but finding one now that hasn’t been driven into the ground, beaten to death, or rusted away is nigh on impossible. Instead of buying a dodgy old your son a favour and buy him a decent car, one that doesn’t belong in a scrap yard, and will serve him well for some time into the future. I would go for a Hilux, Triton, or Bravo 2600.

Seeking the help of a diesel engine mechanic is a good idea, they often have greater expertise on diesel engines than mainstream dealers and can make repairs at a lower cost to you.

I wouldn't think so. The fact that all four doors are affected suggests it hasn’t been in a crash. If it were one or two doors, then you might be more suspicious. If you’re concerned about it having been in a crash look for overspray in the surrounding areas, on the seals, in the door openings etc. A check of the write-off register at your registration authority would tell you if it has been written-off.

Without knowing anything about its condition it’s hard to give an accurate value, but the private price guide is $5000 to $65000 and the trade-in price guide is $2500 to $4500. On that basis the asking price seems reasonable, but try offering them $2500.

If the engine were reconditioned by a reputable engine reconditioning company and they gave you a guarantee with it you can be confident that it will last a long time. How long is impossible to say. There would be little difference between the exchange reconditioned engine and the one done by your mechanic. Either way you should check on what they are going to do the engine in the reconditioning process, so you can be confident that it is done professionally and properly.

Our LPG experts tell us there are a couple of issues that could create such a problem, but the most likely is that one of the control modules in the gas system has been damaged by water intrusion. Take it to an installer experienced with your brand of system.