Mazda Problems

First things first: are you sure the leak is coming from the gearbox and not the engine? It can be very hard to discern the difference in a manual car, although it’s easier in an automatic as the transmission fluid is usually a red colour.

Beyond that, oil can escape from a gearbox through a variety of places. The breather could be allowing fluid out, the pan seal could be leaking, the rear gearbox seal could be faulty or you could even have a cracked transmission casing. Don’t rule out a leaking drain plug, either, as this is a very common source of a leak. You might even find the leak is coming from somewhere within the transmission cooler and its plumbing.

Modern cars absolutely hate having low battery voltage. It throws everything into chaos and can easily produce the sort of problems you’re having as the major components of a car are, these days, all controlled by computers.

By turning the car off and on again, you’re effectively performing the old Alt-Ctrl-Del function to reboot a home computer or laptop. As such, and especially since the transmission works perfectly when you reset it, this is almost certainly an electrical problem. A more permanent reset might be needed, so try leaving the battery disconnected overnight and then reconnect it next morning. This will often return things to normal.

It mightn’t seem like the vehicle is struggling, but when you consider that a caravan of this size can easily weight the best part of three tonnes, you can see how it puts a strain on every component of the vehicle towing it. It sometimes only takes a small hill or a headwind to push a towing vehicle into its discomfort zone. Do that long enough and eventually something will get hot enough to trigger the limp-home response.

But don’t rule out a check-up at a BT-50 or Ford Ranger (they’re the same vehicle under the skin) specialist who should be able to pinpoint the weak link, as well as offer solutions to stop it happening again. You might find you need a bigger transmission or engine oil cooler, or even a retune of the engine to bring it back to tip-top shape.

Accessories you’ve added can also make a difference. Have you, for instance, fitted a roof rack or larger wheels and tyres? A roof rack can add a lot of aero drag that has to be overcome, while bigger tyres can mess up the vehicle’s gearing, causing it to work harder for the same road speed as before.

The problem of the sump filling with diesel was not unknown on early CX-5 diesels. A leaking injector is possible, but the main cause of this was believed to be the car’s DPF regeneration process dumping large amounts of fuel into the engine, some of which finds its way past the piston rings and into the sump. Either way, a new engine is a large expense.

There’s every chance that Mazda won’t offer any help given the age of the vehicle, nor is this type of engine damage usually a cause for an insurance claim. It would definitely be worth contacting Mazda Australia’s customer service division, but don’t hold your breath.

The first thing to do is drive the car yourself and see if there’s a pattern to what’s happening. Until then, you have even less idea of what’s going on and a diagnosis is all but impossible at that point. You might find that the car is cutting out after a period of driving (maybe caused by a dirty fuel filter) or when the engine reaches a certain temperature (possibly a sick crank angle sensor).

I’d also recommend an electronic scan to see if any fault codes show up. These codes can be very specific and will often lead you straight to the root of the problem.

This sounds more like a gearbox that isn’t selecting fifth gear properly, rather than one where it’s leaping out of fifth. For it to pop out of gear when cruising along suggests it’s not getting into gear fully in the first place. You might be able to adjust the shifter’s position and alignment and therefore get fifth gear to engage more fully.

There’s also a chance that this refusal to select fifth gear is the result of bent or worn selector forks within the transmission itself, and that’s a gearbox-out job unfortunately. So the first step is to get underneath with a torch while somebody inside attempts to select fifth gear. If the selector linkage runs out of range of motion, you might just have an adjustment problem which can be pretty easily sorted.

It’s a bit hard to know what’s going on here. If a tyre is scrubbing on its inside edge, it’s often a problem with the camber settings (the amount of lean on the tyre from top to bottom). If it was realigned incorrectly, it’s conceivable that too much camber was removed and now the opposite problem is occurring where the outside edge is wearing too quickly. That said, sometimes incorrect toe-in and toe-out settings can cause similarly odd tyre wear.

Either way, this sort of problem should not be beyond the skills of a wheel alignment specialist to rectify without any mechanical changes to the vehicle or its suspension. In extreme cases, adjustable suspension bushes or mounting points can be fitted in place of the standard items to provide a greater range of adjustment. You may find that rectification is warranty issue, but if the misalignment came about through wear and tear or hitting a pothole or big bump, then it may not be covered by the factory warranty. Previous crash damage that has not ben repaired properly is also another common cause of weird tyre wear due to poor wheel alignment.

On the surface, you’d probably start looking at the car’s fuel system. A diesel, even a modern one, is controlled largely by how much fuel is being pumped into it and at what pressure. If the fuel pump is slack or the injectors, filters or lines are faulty or leaking, you might find that there’s simply not enough fuel to keep it revving on beyond that 2200rpm.

But you could also be looking at an exhaust problem, a partially blocked intake system, dirty air filter, or even a worn out turbocharger. A mechanic who is familiar with this make and model is going to have the best chance of diagnosing what’s wrong. Chances are yours is not the first vehicle to do this, and a specialist mechanic has possibly seen it all before.

This is not as simple as perhaps it should be. Different carmakers use different methods to calculate cargo space, and Mazda uses the VDA method which uses 200mm X 100mm X 50mm blocks to determine the volume. In this case, the CX-5 has a volume of 438 litres with the rear seats up and 1340 litres with the seat folded down.

However, you need to know the dimensions in centimetres, so here’s how it pans out: The CX-5 has a luggage space length of 89.7cm with the rear seat in place, 171.5cm with the seat folded, a luggage space height of 82.7cm and a width of 105cm at its narrowest point.

Perhaps that helps, but the best way by far (if possible) is to visit a Mazda showroom with the wheelchair in question and physically see if it fits.

I’d start by talking to a transmission specialist. There’s a fair chance they will have seen these exact symptoms before in this make and model and will know what’s wrong without wasting any time or money on guesswork. It’s probably also worth going back to basics and checking the transmission fluid level, as low fluid can cause all sorts of drive problems. If, on the other hand, the gearbox is worn out internally, you’ll either need to rebuild or replace it, but don’t rule out something less expensive like an internal selector fault or even a torque converter problem.