Mazda Problems

Are you having problems with your Mazda? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Mazda issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Mazda in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.

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Used Mazda RX-8 review: 2003-2011
By David Morley · 12 Sep 2026
Everybody remembers the Mazda RX-7. With its sexy looks and turbine-smooth rotary engine, it (and the rotary Mazdas that went before it) has a cult following. But what about the RX-8? With its somewhat odd looks and layout (including small, reverse-opening rear doors) even a newer version of the rotary engine couldn’t really save it from obscurity. Relative to the RX-7, anyway. It’s hard to know, therefore, whether to categorise the RX-8 as a two or four-door and that’s a pretty good metaphor for the whole thing; people didn’t understand it then and have largely forgotten about it now. As a used-car, what the RX-8 mostly has to offer is a point of difference. That little rotary engine will spin happily from one end of the tachometer to the other and it’s an engaging car to drive provided you can live with a manual gearbox. In automatic form, the car lost power and was overall a bit dull. Beyond that, it’s another Japanese coupe that is now definitely middle-aged and potentially well past its best. Which means the purchase of a used one requires much skill and judgment. The RX-8 is known internally as the FE model. The RX-8’s biggest selling point (then and now) is its rotary engine. Unlike conventional engines with pistons moving up and down, the rotary uses rotating segments that make for supremely smooth operation and brilliant power relative to its capacity. If that floats your boat, the Mazda will appeal. But if you’re looking for the sort of style for which Japanese coupes are famous, then the odd looks of the RX-8 might be a disappointment. And even though the turbocharged rotary engine has earned a reputation as a giant-killer in performance terms, in the heavier RX-8 with its non-turbocharged engine, it’s not a remarkable performer at all. Entertaining, sure, but fast? No. Like all rotary-powered Mazdas, there’s a huge question mark over the long-term reliability, particularly under the bonnet. The rest of the package is less problematic, but a trashed engine in an RX-8 could easily cost more than the car is actually worth. While technically interesting and great fun to thrash along, the Mazda’s rotary engine can be a bit fragile. It requires very specific oil (some of which will be consumed in normal operation) and can wear very quickly, especially if it’s been driven hard or suffered maintenance neglect. Wear will show up as a loss of engine compression, so a compression test should be part of any pre-purchase inspection. Internal seals can wear and fail at which point the engine can be very difficult to start. Owners have also found out the hard way that the rotary engine (even in good condition) doesn’t like to be switched off until it has warmed up. If it has been switched off before attaining operating temperature, raw fuel can flood the engine, breaking the seal between the metal parts and causing a loss of compression and hard starting. It’s important to determine what’s causing any loss of compression, but in reality, every RX-8 engine needs to be approached with caution. The RX-8 also attracted a type of buyer who was keen to extract every ounce of performance out of the car. As such, crash damage is a real possibility. Check for any mis-match between panel colours and make sure all the panel gaps are straight and uniform. Take a close look underneath for evidence of damage and be very wary of any modified example. Many owners extracted huge power by modifying these engines, but the end result was often a hand grenade missing its pin. The RX-8 can also be hard on clutches, so make sure there’s no shuddering or slipping from the clutch when taking off. A full and up to date service record is an absolute must with a Mazda RX-8 and any modifications to the driveline must be checked closely. Beyond that, be sure to check that all the electrical gear works properly, including the air-conditioning as these units were a bit problematic back in the day and won’t be any better two decades on. Early build (2003 to 2005) RX-8s were recalled to check for a flawed front control arm that could crack, leading to a loss of steering and control. Apparently, a manufacturing flaw was to blame, but it definitely needs to have been examined back in the day. A Mazda dealer should be able to identify affected cars and whether they’ve been checked. Other recalls included potential fuel leaks, electrical problems, and, of course, the dreaded Takata airbag fiasco which saw the RX-8 recalled no less than three times. For more details on these recalls, you can check out: https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/. The RX-8 to avoid is not determined by a production date, but rather by the transmission fitted. To make the revvy rotary engine work with an automatic transmission, Mazda detuned the engine for that version to make slightly more torque but a lot less horsepower. So, instead of 177kW, the automatic RX-8 delivered just 141kW, and the transmission itself is an old-fashioned four-speed unit. Aside from anything else, the idea of an automatic transmission behind such a rorty, zingy little engine is missing the point entirely. This is a real crap-shoot because, depending on how a particular car has been serviced and driven, the rotary engine can last 200,000km, or it could be dead inside 80,000km. The problem there is that you can’t always be sure of a car’s history when it’s a 20-year-old used car. Many RX-8s still getting around are on their second or even third engine, so a car’s history is absolutely vital in this case. You can safely ignore trim levels, because with this car, it all comes down to performance levels. If you’re buying a manual RX-8, then the first generation cars between 2003 and 2008 are the ones to look for. That’s because the facelift in 2008 brought with it a reduction in performance to 170kW in the six-speed manual variant. But, if it’s an automatic you need, then the post-facelift car is the way to go. That replaced the original RX-8’s 141kW with 158kW and the tired old four-speed auto with a much more suitable six-speed unit. We’d still always buy the manual RX-8, however. Prices for relatively high-mileage RX-8s start in the very low teens or even a bit less. The best standard cars can cost closer to $30,000 or even $40,000 depending on mileage and condition. It’s worth noting that, unlike most cars, a modified RX-8 is not always a cheaper alternative to a stock standard example. But be aware that engine mods are fraught with danger and will only be as good as the mechanic who did them. Although the rotary engine in the RX-8 was not identical to rotaries that went before it, it still falls within the scope of the enormous aftermarket this engine has spawned. There’s a universe of replacement and go-fast bits and pieces for the Mazda rotary. On the other hand, the RX-8’s body panels were unique to what was effectively a pretty niche model. So, some trim items and body panels might be getting a bit harder to find. A local race series for the RX-8 probably consumed its share of spare body panels, too. Mazda Australia sold about 6500 RX-8s across the model’s lifespan here. That means there aren’t exactly hundreds of them for sale at any given time and you may have to be patient to find the right one. Again, that local race series for RX-8 will have thinned the ranks of survivors.
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My 2014 Mazda BT-50 won't select gears
Answered by David Morley · 24 Jul 2026

Assuming your car is fitted with a manual transmission, this could be as simple as a gearshift linkage that has jumped ship, or a selector cable that has stretched or snapped. If that’s the case, you should be able to look from underneath the car to see what’s hanging off or missing and not connecting the shifter to the actual gearbox. If the shifter moves freely inside the cabin, but doesn’t sound or feel like it’s connected to anything, that’s probably the case.

If you’re unlucky, you may find that there’s something inside the transmission (probably to do with the selector mechanism) that has broken, worn out or failed. In that case, you need to go inside the transmission to see what’s what, and that’s a much more complex task that involves removing the transmission from the car and lots of labour.

The automatic transmission is a mysterious, marvellous piece of equipment that manages to work almost in spite of its complexity. Guessing at a problem like this is fraught with danger, so the best advice is to get the vehicle to a transmission specialist, download the fault codes and see if they give the technician any hints as to what’s up.

Transmission problems with this make and model are hardly unknown, so avoid driving the vehicle any farther until it’s been looked at. You may end up doing more damage by continuing to drive it.

The actual problem could be anything from a transmission that is about to catastrophically fail, to one that has simply lost its 'memory' or programming and can be rebooted fairly easily and quickly.

My 2016 Mazda BT-50 4WD sometimes gets stuck in first gear
Answered by David Morley · 09 Oct 2026

For a start, this model Mazda BT-50 did have a recall to check the transmission’s output shaft speed sensor. If this failed, the transmission could suddenly shift back to first gear which, if it did so at highway speeds, would have been potentially disastrous. But it’s also possible that this sensor could fail and not allow the transmission to shift beyond first gear, so that would be worth a check. A transmission specialist is your best bet here.

Beyond that, simply servicing a component won’t generally fix a fundamental problem. It would be the same with a worn out or internally damaged engine; servicing that engine with fresh oil and spark plugs will not fix the underlying condition.

The clutch pedal in my 2017 Mazda BT-50 drops to the floor
Answered by David Morley · 02 Oct 2026

The problem of a clutch pedal hitting the floor without actually disengaging the clutch is usually caused by either a faulty clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder or a loss of clutch fluid from the system.

These are not expensive or complex things to fix and new master cylinders and slave cylinder are readily available from parts stores and online sellers. However, if the problem is a lack of hydraulic fluid, you also need to figure out where the old fluid went. There must be a leak somewhere and until that’s fixed, topping up the fluid will only be a temporary fix.

If you’re really unlucky, you might find the clutch has collapsed internally, at which point a whole new clutch will be needed. This vehicle also used a dual-mass flywheel, so you’ll often need to replace that as well to do the job properly.

The overheating is far from a mystery: Any time the coolant level in the radiator and cooling system drops below a critical point, there’s simply not enough coolant remaining to effectively cool the engine. So it gets hotter and hotter until it overheats.

The bigger question is why the coolant is leaving the radiator via the coolant recovery tank. In many cases, this is because of pressure from the combustion process finding its way into the cooling system. In turn, that’s very often caused by a failed head gasket which is allowing the combustion pressure into the coolant passages inside the cylinder head and crankcase.

The head gasket not only keeps combustion pressure (the result of the air and fuel being burnt in each cylinder) inside the engine, but also separate from the cooling system. But a failed gasket will often allow the pressure and the coolant to mix, at which point the pressure overcomes the pressure inside the cooling system and the coolant has to go somewhere. Generally, that somewhere will be the recovery tank as this is where the coolant goes in the normal course of its expanding as the engine heats up.

There’s a quick, simple chemical test that a mechanic can carry out to confirm whether the head gasket has failed, and this would probably be your first step. And don’t be tempted to continue driving the car and simply topping up the coolant. This type of leak can get a lot worse very quickly, and overheating can destroy an engine while you watch.

MY Mazda BT-50's turbo is whistling in lower gears.
Answered by David Morley · 15 Apr 2026

Conventional wisdom says the first place to start looking is the turbocharger and its plumbing. A turbocharger operates at very high speeds and a whistling noise is quite common. What you shouldn’t have, however, is a loud version of that noise, or a whistle that is suddenly louder than ever before.

Cracked or leaking turbo-plumbing can allow the noise to escape, but a turbocharger with a worn bearing can also suddenly become louder in its operation. So that’s where to start looking.

Why does the noise drop in the higher gears? Perhaps because you’re cruising in those gears and not accelerating hard as you do in the lower gears. Less throttle input means a slower turbocharger speed and a drop in turbo volume and pitch.

There’s been no recall for this model regarding oil consumption. And although there have been a handful of recalls for the CX-5, your car is not within the build-date parameters to be one of the affected ones.

It’s important to remember that often, a problem with a car sold in another market, won’t affect the same make and model in another part of the world. This can be because of vastly different operating conditions, different driving and usage habits and even the two apparently identical vehicles being built in different factories with different suppliers producing the parts.

Don’t forget, either, that all engines consume some oil. A turbocharged engine with its higher combustion chamber pressures will often sip a little more, but some oil consumption is part of the normal process of engine operation. That’s particularly true of modern cars which often use low-tension piston rings to reduce internal friction and, therefore, fuel consumption, at the cost of a little more oil consumption.

Does the 2006 Mazda RX8 come with 20B?
Answered by David Morley · 14 Sep 2026

No, the Mazda RX-8 sold in Australia only came with an updated version of the 13B rotary engine.

From what I can gather, the only production car to use the three-rotor 20B rotary engine was the Mazda Eunos Cosmo, built between 1990 and 1995 and sold exclusively in Japan. But many race cars have used 20B or triple-rotor engines, and they remain a bit of a holy grail engine for Mazda rotary enthusiasts.

For the record, the first Japanese car to win the Le Mans 24-Hour race was a Mazda 787B in 1991, using a four-rotor rotary engine of 2.6 litres. It was also the first (and only) time a vehicle without a reciprocating piston engine had won Le Mans.

Sometimes head units need a reboot or a return-to-factory-settings button to be pressed. Often, there will be a tiny hole somewhere on the face of the head unit. Into this, you insert a thin piece of wire or a toothpick (or similar) and press just hard enough for the screen to go blank and the unit to reboot. It sounds like you’re using the factory Mazda reversing camera with an aftermarket head unit, so you may need to visit a car audio specialist to get it all working together.

Changing a car’s battery can often be enough to scramble the settings on things like cameras and stereos. You may need to find the security code for the head unit to make it all work properly, too.

Disclaimer: You acknowledge and agree that all answers are provided as a general guide only and should not be relied upon as bespoke advice. Carsguide is not liable for the accuracy of any information provided in the answers.
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