Are you having problems with your Mazda? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Mazda issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Mazda in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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Assuming your car is fitted with a manual transmission, this could be as simple as a gearshift linkage that has jumped ship, or a selector cable that has stretched or snapped. If that’s the case, you should be able to look from underneath the car to see what’s hanging off or missing and not connecting the shifter to the actual gearbox. If the shifter moves freely inside the cabin, but doesn’t sound or feel like it’s connected to anything, that’s probably the case.
If you’re unlucky, you may find that there’s something inside the transmission (probably to do with the selector mechanism) that has broken, worn out or failed. In that case, you need to go inside the transmission to see what’s what, and that’s a much more complex task that involves removing the transmission from the car and lots of labour.
The automatic transmission is a mysterious, marvellous piece of equipment that manages to work almost in spite of its complexity. Guessing at a problem like this is fraught with danger, so the best advice is to get the vehicle to a transmission specialist, download the fault codes and see if they give the technician any hints as to what’s up.
Transmission problems with this make and model are hardly unknown, so avoid driving the vehicle any farther until it’s been looked at. You may end up doing more damage by continuing to drive it.
The actual problem could be anything from a transmission that is about to catastrophically fail, to one that has simply lost its 'memory' or programming and can be rebooted fairly easily and quickly.
For a start, this model Mazda BT-50 did have a recall to check the transmission’s output shaft speed sensor. If this failed, the transmission could suddenly shift back to first gear which, if it did so at highway speeds, would have been potentially disastrous. But it’s also possible that this sensor could fail and not allow the transmission to shift beyond first gear, so that would be worth a check. A transmission specialist is your best bet here.
Beyond that, simply servicing a component won’t generally fix a fundamental problem. It would be the same with a worn out or internally damaged engine; servicing that engine with fresh oil and spark plugs will not fix the underlying condition.
The problem of a clutch pedal hitting the floor without actually disengaging the clutch is usually caused by either a faulty clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder or a loss of clutch fluid from the system.
These are not expensive or complex things to fix and new master cylinders and slave cylinder are readily available from parts stores and online sellers. However, if the problem is a lack of hydraulic fluid, you also need to figure out where the old fluid went. There must be a leak somewhere and until that’s fixed, topping up the fluid will only be a temporary fix.
If you’re really unlucky, you might find the clutch has collapsed internally, at which point a whole new clutch will be needed. This vehicle also used a dual-mass flywheel, so you’ll often need to replace that as well to do the job properly.
The overheating is far from a mystery: Any time the coolant level in the radiator and cooling system drops below a critical point, there’s simply not enough coolant remaining to effectively cool the engine. So it gets hotter and hotter until it overheats.
The bigger question is why the coolant is leaving the radiator via the coolant recovery tank. In many cases, this is because of pressure from the combustion process finding its way into the cooling system. In turn, that’s very often caused by a failed head gasket which is allowing the combustion pressure into the coolant passages inside the cylinder head and crankcase.
The head gasket not only keeps combustion pressure (the result of the air and fuel being burnt in each cylinder) inside the engine, but also separate from the cooling system. But a failed gasket will often allow the pressure and the coolant to mix, at which point the pressure overcomes the pressure inside the cooling system and the coolant has to go somewhere. Generally, that somewhere will be the recovery tank as this is where the coolant goes in the normal course of its expanding as the engine heats up.
There’s a quick, simple chemical test that a mechanic can carry out to confirm whether the head gasket has failed, and this would probably be your first step. And don’t be tempted to continue driving the car and simply topping up the coolant. This type of leak can get a lot worse very quickly, and overheating can destroy an engine while you watch.
Conventional wisdom says the first place to start looking is the turbocharger and its plumbing. A turbocharger operates at very high speeds and a whistling noise is quite common. What you shouldn’t have, however, is a loud version of that noise, or a whistle that is suddenly louder than ever before.
Cracked or leaking turbo-plumbing can allow the noise to escape, but a turbocharger with a worn bearing can also suddenly become louder in its operation. So that’s where to start looking.
Why does the noise drop in the higher gears? Perhaps because you’re cruising in those gears and not accelerating hard as you do in the lower gears. Less throttle input means a slower turbocharger speed and a drop in turbo volume and pitch.
There’s been no recall for this model regarding oil consumption. And although there have been a handful of recalls for the CX-5, your car is not within the build-date parameters to be one of the affected ones.
It’s important to remember that often, a problem with a car sold in another market, won’t affect the same make and model in another part of the world. This can be because of vastly different operating conditions, different driving and usage habits and even the two apparently identical vehicles being built in different factories with different suppliers producing the parts.
Don’t forget, either, that all engines consume some oil. A turbocharged engine with its higher combustion chamber pressures will often sip a little more, but some oil consumption is part of the normal process of engine operation. That’s particularly true of modern cars which often use low-tension piston rings to reduce internal friction and, therefore, fuel consumption, at the cost of a little more oil consumption.
No, the Mazda RX-8 sold in Australia only came with an updated version of the 13B rotary engine.
From what I can gather, the only production car to use the three-rotor 20B rotary engine was the Mazda Eunos Cosmo, built between 1990 and 1995 and sold exclusively in Japan. But many race cars have used 20B or triple-rotor engines, and they remain a bit of a holy grail engine for Mazda rotary enthusiasts.
For the record, the first Japanese car to win the Le Mans 24-Hour race was a Mazda 787B in 1991, using a four-rotor rotary engine of 2.6 litres. It was also the first (and only) time a vehicle without a reciprocating piston engine had won Le Mans.
Sometimes head units need a reboot or a return-to-factory-settings button to be pressed. Often, there will be a tiny hole somewhere on the face of the head unit. Into this, you insert a thin piece of wire or a toothpick (or similar) and press just hard enough for the screen to go blank and the unit to reboot. It sounds like you’re using the factory Mazda reversing camera with an aftermarket head unit, so you may need to visit a car audio specialist to get it all working together.
Changing a car’s battery can often be enough to scramble the settings on things like cameras and stereos. You may need to find the security code for the head unit to make it all work properly, too.