Hyundai Problems

Are you having problems with your Hyundai? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Hyundai issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Hyundai in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.

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Used Hyundai iX35 review: 2010-2015
By David Morley · 14 Sep 2026
We’re not sure exactly what was going on in Hyundai’s marketing department at the end of the first decade of this century, but somebody was definitely having two bob each way. Up until 2010, the Tucson had been Hyundai’s mid-sized SUV entrant, but that badge disappeared the same year as the ix35 hit showrooms as the Tucson’s replacement. But after just five years on sale, the ix35 was itself replaced by none other than the Tucson. Confused? Us too, but to keep it simple, if you’re shopping for a Hyundai-made mid-sized SUV built between 2010 and 2015, the ix35 is the badge you need to look for. Meantime, leaving nomenclature out of it, the LM (as it was known internally) ix35 was a bread-and-butter kind of family SUV with familiar overall proportions and nothing too confronting mechanically. It could be had in three trim levels (Active, Elite and Highlander, in that order) and with a range of driveline options. There was a 2.0-litre petrol engine with 122kW, a 2.4-litre petrol with 130kW and a 2.0-litre turbo-diesel with 135kW and lots more torque than the petrol variants. The 2.0 petrol was available with either a five-speed manual or six-speed automatic transmission and was front-drive only. The 2.4 petrol and the turbo-diesel were fitted exclusively with the six-speed automatic and were all-wheel drive, although they used on-demand AWD, and operated as front-drivers in most conditions. Conventional wisdom says late-model Hyundais are pretty stout things, even if they don’t offer much in the way of driving excitement. The ix35 makes sense if all you want is a roomy (for its size) box with which to move people and their belongings. But even then, there are some reliability problems to note, and driveability was never anything better than average. Overall, there are better, more entertaining choices in a second-hand SUV of this type. Again, it goes against the mood for this brand, but the ix35 did have some serious reliability issues that, even though they didn’t affect every example, should make you weigh things up carefully before making a purchasing decision. Something very wrong was going on in Hyundai’s engine department at this point in history. All three of the ix35’s engines suffered (to some extent) with some serious issues that saw Hyundai replacing entire engines under warranty in an attempt to stay in favour with its customers. The problems mainly centred around engines that consumed excess oil (to the point where some owners were caught out with empty sumps between services) and rattling engines that were signalling their death knock. The consensus is these problems were caused by poor manufacturing accuracy, leading to cylinder scoring, at which point the engines became noisy (particularly when cold) and started to burn oil. The fix was to either rebuild the engine with a new crankcase or, more commonly, replace the whole engine. Other issues reported over the years have been interior trim peeling (most notably steering wheel covers) and flaking paint caused by a bad batch of paint that affected other carmakers (including Toyota) and was traced to the top coat not adhering properly to the undercoat at the factory. This model Hyundai has had its share of recall notices over the years, some of them more serious than others, but a couple posing a definite safety risk. They include a recall to check the seat belt tensioning system, and a driver’s airbag that could have been assembled incorrectly and not deploy as it was designed to. Leaks were another ix35 recall theme, with oil leaks from the sump, fuel leaks and transmission fluid leaks all creating recall notices. There was also a recall to check some cars for a brake system that could allow brake fluid to contaminate the ABS module, leading to braking problems. You can check out the full details including what batches of cars were affected at: https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/ If you’re buying a petrol ix35, the ones to avoid on the basis of the engine problems and oil burning were the ones from the first generation built between 2010 and 2013. If, however, you’re after a diesel version, the post-facelift cars (2013 to 2015) seem to be the problematic ones. Either way, you’d want to know the service history of any second-hand ix35 and be prepared to shell out for a pre-purchase inspection which would include a compression test and perhaps even a bore-scope examination of the engine. The number of ix35s still floating around with 250,000km on board, or even more, suggests the engine problems were a bit random and clearly didn’t affect every car. We’d still be a lot happier, though, with an example with less than 160,000km on its odometer, along with an up-to-date and complete service history as some proof of it having a chance at going the distance. A car with a factory replacement engine (and documentation to support this) would also be preferable to one with no history. The turbo-diesel ix35 was always the better one to actually drive thanks to its beefier power and torque delivery. The added safety of all-wheel drive only reinforces this view. The petrol versions do the job, but they can feel breathless and stretched a bit tight at freeway speeds when fully loaded. Right now, you’ll find sellers with early-built, high-mileage examples of the ix35 with an asking price of about $5000 or even less. But these are best left to speculators. Better value is to be found in the $8000 to $10,000 price range where you start to find diesel examples with much more moderate mileage showing. Don’t forget that service history. Hyundai is a big brand not just in Australia, but globally. So, spare parts are not hard to find. Neither is a workshop that can navigate what is, fundamentally, a pretty straightforward vehicle. There’s a huge online market for parts to suit cars like this one, but be wary of online sellers you haven’t used before. Don’t rule out parts recycling yards for spares like body panels and some mechanical parts. Despite the problems some owners experienced with this car, Hyundai managed to sell plenty of them here, with sales peaking at about 18,000 per year at one point. That gave it a huge chunk of the market in its segment, but those mechanical problems took their toll, leading to the badge being replaced by the revived Tucson model in 2015. Some owners were forced to walk away from their ix35s when the cost of repairs became more than the value of the car itself. But the sheer sales figures when things were looking good mean there are at least a couple of hundred ix35s for sale on the bigger online sites.
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2026 Hyundai Ioniq 9 electric three-row large SUV may be recalled in Australia due to second-row folding fault for Kia EV9 and Volvo EX90 rival
By Tim Gibson · 23 Sep 2026
Hyundai's flagship family electric SUV is under investigation for a safety concern in Australia, following similar reports overseas.  The South Korean brand is looking into an issue on its Ioniq 9 in Australia over a potentially dangerous problem with the second-row power-folding seats. It relates to the seat assemblies failing to detect passengers or objects on the seats and continuing to close even when using excessive force. This can lead to the seats squashing occupants and cause serious injury or worse. The Ioniq 9 is Hyundai’s most expensive car on sale, and is its biggest electric SUV offering Down Under. Virtually every Ioniq 9 sold in Australia could be affected by the issue, with more than 100 vehicles being looked into. The issue is expected to be able to be fixed with an over-the-air software update like in other markets, or owners can option to have it resolved at a Hyundai dealer. Owners should take extra care during the folding of seats in the meantime, according to the brand.  In the United States, 5360 Ioniq 9 examples have been recalled, according to reports. The brand said all vehicles recalled have the fault.  It’s not just the Ioniq 9 impacted in the United States, with it also linked to power-folding seats in the Palisade and the Telluride SUVs.  At this stage, only the Ioniq 9 is under investigation in Australia.
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Will a 2022/23 Hyundai Santa Fe tow my 1500kg caravan well?
Answered by David Morley · 18 Sep 2026

The short answer is yes, provided you have the 'right' Sante Fe. In a nutshell, while all Sante Fes of this vintage were rated to tow at least 1650kg, the reality is that one does it better than the others.

You can forget the hybrid version which, although capable of towing, is not the best variant for that task. The same goes for the 3.5-litre V6 Santa Fe which had plenty of power but was front-drive only. Which leaves the turbo-diesel version with its 440Nm of torque, 2500kg towing capacity and all-wheel-drive grip as the one to go for.

The turbo-diesel engine piles on the grunt better than the petrol engines, will be more frugal with a caravan hitched up, and the grip from the AWD set-up means it’ll be a safer, more capable tow rig.

The remote on my 2011 Hyundai only works sometimes
Answered by David Morley · 16 Oct 2026

A visit to an auto electrician is the best bet, rather than replacing things like remote units that may not be the root cause of the problem. Often, strange, intermittent problems like yours are caused by a failing or faulty body computer. This is the electronic control unit that take scare of a huge range of a car’s functions, including entertainment, climate control, wipers, lights, power mirrors and, of course, central locking.

This computer also acts as the electronic bridge between the remote fob and the car’s starter motor, telling the car that the remote is the correct one and that it’s safe to start the engine. That is, that the car is not being stolen.

This could be something really simple such as low transmission fluid level, or it could suggest a major internal failure of the transmission. In between those extremes are things like a problem with the transmission’s valve body, or even something mechanically wrong with the shifter mechanism that pokes through the floor into the cabin.

A transmission specialist is your best bet, as chances are they’ve seen this exact problem on the same make and model many times over, and will be able to pinpoint the problem quickly.

This is the vehicle thinking that it’s being taken without the ignition key. In other words, stolen. The solution is to connect the negative terminal, then quickly put the key in the ignition and turn it on. This will let the car know that the key is present and there’s no threat of it being stolen.

Don’t be tempted to insert and turn the key to the on position and then connect the battery, as this could cause the battery terminal to throw a spark which is dangerous and could even send an electrical spike through the car’s computer.

You may also find that locking and unlocking with the key fob will also silence the alarm, but using the ignition key will be the quickest way to do this and minimise your neighbours’ wrath.

This is an increasingly common question as car makers take the decision to delete the conventional transmission dipstick from their cars. It’s probably down to the fact that modern transmissions claim to be sealed for life (many mechanics disagree with this) but the move probably also has something to do with preventing owner tinkering as well as the cost saving in not including a dipstick.

But for car owners like yourself who like to keep an eye on what’s happening under the bonnet, the way to check the transmission fluid all takes place underneath the car. Once you have access to the car’s nether regions, you’ll find an inspection plug on the transmission. If you remove this plug, you should find the level of the transmission just touching the lip of the plug-hole. If any drains out, the transmission is too full. If the level is too low (below the lip) you can add flid through this inspection hole.

The catch is that sometimes (follow the instructions in the owner’s manual for the detailed method) you need to have the car running and the transmission at normal operating temperature. Obviously, there are safety implications involved here, especially if you don’t have access to a workshop with a hoist.

With all that said, some Hyundais are, in fact, fitted with a conventional dipstick, making this check much easier. Again, your owner’s manual should reveal all.

Because you’ve already logged the problem with your dealer, it should be on file as a pre-existing condition. Now that it has become worse, you need to take it back to the dealer and have it checked again. If the dealer won’t look at it for you, you need to do two things. First, have the vehicle independently assessed by a transmission specialist. Secondly, you should take the matter to Hyundai’s Australian customer service division.

The symptoms you’ve described are consistent with problems far too commonly found in dual-clutch transmissions. Shuddering and slow gear selection are far from unknown in this make and model, and Hyundai even had a software update to try to alleviate these problems. At the very least, the dealer could try the new software, but if left unchecked you could end up with a dead transmission that could cost many thousands to replace. So it’s crucial to keep the dealer and Hyundai Australia in the loop to maintain your warranty cover.

My 2012 Hyundai ix35 won't start
Answered by David Morley · 07 Aug 2026

What you need to do is work backwards and check every connection and wiring plug that is anywhere near where you were working. A single unplugged (or even loose) sensor, connection or fitting can absolutely sideline a modern, electronically controlled engine.

You may also find you’ve damaged a sensor in the process of cleaning it (they’re pretty sensitive things) so a scan of the car may reveal that.

Also, was the cleaning process initiated by an existing problem that made you think the sensors needed cleaning? Cleaning an already dud sensor rarely brings it back to life.

My information suggests the crank-angle sensor for this engine is located on the rear of the cylinder block (near where the engine joins the transmission) near the oil filter housing. It’s usually hidden by a small heat shield and requires that and a 10mm bolt to be removed to remove the sensor.

Access to the wiring harness is usually from above, but the sensor itself is most easily removed from underneath the car after removing any relevant plastic shielding.

Disclaimer: You acknowledge and agree that all answers are provided as a general guide only and should not be relied upon as bespoke advice. Carsguide is not liable for the accuracy of any information provided in the answers.
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