Hyundai Problems

It really doesn’t matter how fast you’re driving when a timing chain or timing belt breaks. If the engine is an interference design, then this failure has possibly turned the rest of the engine to junk. That’s because the valves and pistons have tried to occupy the same space at the same time, and widespread internal damage is the usually outcome.

From what I can gather, the V6 engine in your car is indeed an interference design, so the damage is possibly terminal. You could remove the cylinder head(s) to check, but if the engine has locked up, there’s a fair chance you’ll need to either rebuild the engine or replace it with a different one. You may also find that the cost of these repairs will be greater than the market value of the vehicle itself. At that point, you need to decide whether to repair it or start again with a new vehicle.

It’s possible – although pretty unlikely - that a modern car still uses bronze bushings somewhere in the differential or drive-axle assembly. The material is likely to be bronze or phosphor-bronze.

I’m tipping you’ve performed a differential-oil drain and found a few metallic-looking bits in the bottom of the rain pan. This is never a good thing to find, as it suggests that something is wearing inside the diff and shedding these filings. It’s actually not abnormal for a few tiny fragments to appear in the oil, but if the bottom of the drain pan glitters like you’re panning for gold, then you have a potential problem.

Even though the fragments might look yellowish, they could have started out silver (like normal bearing material) but have become discoloured due to time and heat in the environment in which they operate. So, just because they look like bronze or brass, they could be made from any type of bearing material. At which point you need to investigate further.

It sounds like the transmission has broken something internally. It could be that the clutch assembly is smashed, or the input or output shafts have snapped. It could even be the actual gearsets that have failed, leaving you with no mechanical connection between the engine and the gearbox.

Either way, it sounds like it needs a new clutch and/or gearbox which may be more than the market value of the car. That said, wrecking yards are full of Hyundai Getzes, so a second-hand, tested transmission might save the day.

The first thing to check here is what’s called the clock spring. This is an electrical connector inside the steering wheel that allows the wheel to be turned to full lock and back while still allowing for electrical contact between the airbag and the rest of the car.

If this spring fails, the connection between the airbag and the systems that would trigger it in a crash are lost. Which means that in a big enough collision, the airbag would not fire and protect the driver.

Clock spring replacement is relatively simple but it’s still a job best left to the pros, as any time you’re messing with an airbag, you’re playing with a fairly violent explosive component. Get it wrong and accidentally fire the airbag, and you could be seriously injured.

A poor earth is often the cause of this sort of misbehaviour and it’s a good place to start looking. Check the earthing points in the engine bay and around the area where the tail-lights are earthed in the cargo area.

You might need to lift some carpet or trim pieces, but when you find the earth points, make sure they’re tight and clean and not covered in corrosion. Don’t forget to check the tightness and cleanliness of the battery terminals, too.

Beyond that, these symptoms point to a problem with the car’s body computer which controls all these functions and many more.

When this computer starts to die, all sorts of weird and random flaws can occur. But try this first: Disconnect the battery of the car and let it sit overnight. Reconnect it next morning and keep a close eye on what happens. Sometimes this simple trick will reboot the body computer and normal service will be resumed. Best of all it’s free.

Your budget puts you into some good EVs with decent range including the BYD Seal, Cupra Born, Hyundai Ioniq 5, Polestar 2 (just outside your budget), Tesla Model 3 and others.

Resale value is the big unknown at the moment with many used-car buyers wary of the potential costs of replacing the EV battery sometime in the future.

The future-proofing thing is debatable, too, and experts reckon EV technology is still in its infancy and has a long way to go. If that’s the case, then today’s EVs might seem like Model T Fords in the near future. It all remains to be seen and rests partly on the willingness of the Australian government to get serious about the EV infrastructure necessary for the tech to become viable for more people.

I’m not sure that this is a common fault, but it’s certainly not unheard of. The stereo in a modern car is like any other electrical appliance; it has the potential to just up and die for no good reason.

But rather than simply replace the unit you have, why not shop around for an improvement. There are many, many, aftermarket stereo systems that will fit your car and will have superior Bluetooth functionality and more features than the stock head unit from 2015. You might find they’re cheaper, too.

This is not an unknown problem with this make and model. Sometimes the stereo system will start by losing sound on the FM radio, then progress through to the CD player and even the Bluetooth system. Eventually, you won’t be able to get any noise out of the unit at all. Apparently, it’s a glitch in the unit’s electronics and cant’ be fixed via a reset.

The advice is not to buy a second-hand unit from a wrecked car, as the same problem is likely to occur down the track. The good news is that there are companies in Australia that have developed a fix for this and can return your stereo to full working order. You can find them online.

The other solution would be to ditch the original stereo and fit something new with better quality sound and maybe even features like an integrated reversing camera.

This is not an uncommon thing with some Hyundai models of this vintage. Because of either poor design or materials, some Hyundai engines wear faster than they should. The first signs are rough running, noisy operation and oil consumption. On that basis, I reckon you may have one of those affected engines. That’s supported by the borescope examination that showed wear and the fact that the engine needed two litres of oil to bring it back to a normal level.

It's a fair bet the 1000km monitoring will show the engine has a thirst for oil, at which point it probably needs to be either replaced or rebuilt. My experience suggests that Hyundai is taking this seriously and is replacing engines under warranty with an improved unit that should last much better.

Give the dealership every chance to figure out what’s actually happening under the bonnet and then the time to make it right. You now have what’s called a pre-existing issue, so even if the warranty runs out, Hyundai knows the problem occurred while still within the warranty period. If your case is denied, then it’s time to contact Hyundai Australia’s customer service department and then, if you still don’t have any luck the ACCC which administers Australian Consumer Law and will be well versed with this issue.

There’s every chance this is caused by a small amount of wear and slack in one of the joints in the driveline. If that’s the case, those joints and couplings need to be checked and the worn one(s) replaced, as continuing to drive as it is could see the driveline fail spectacularly at speed.

The reason you feel the jolt on the flat and not when you’re parked on a hill is that the driveline is relaxed on the flat, leaving a little slack for the thump to occur. When parked downhill, gravity has caused the driveline to take up that slack (plus your foot is probably on the brake, preventing the car rocking or moving at all) so the thump can’t occur and, therefore, isn’t felt.