Are you having problems with your Hyundai? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Hyundai issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Hyundai in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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The short answer is yes, provided you have the 'right' Sante Fe. In a nutshell, while all Sante Fes of this vintage were rated to tow at least 1650kg, the reality is that one does it better than the others.
You can forget the hybrid version which, although capable of towing, is not the best variant for that task. The same goes for the 3.5-litre V6 Santa Fe which had plenty of power but was front-drive only. Which leaves the turbo-diesel version with its 440Nm of torque, 2500kg towing capacity and all-wheel-drive grip as the one to go for.
The turbo-diesel engine piles on the grunt better than the petrol engines, will be more frugal with a caravan hitched up, and the grip from the AWD set-up means it’ll be a safer, more capable tow rig.
A visit to an auto electrician is the best bet, rather than replacing things like remote units that may not be the root cause of the problem. Often, strange, intermittent problems like yours are caused by a failing or faulty body computer. This is the electronic control unit that take scare of a huge range of a car’s functions, including entertainment, climate control, wipers, lights, power mirrors and, of course, central locking.
This computer also acts as the electronic bridge between the remote fob and the car’s starter motor, telling the car that the remote is the correct one and that it’s safe to start the engine. That is, that the car is not being stolen.
This could be something really simple such as low transmission fluid level, or it could suggest a major internal failure of the transmission. In between those extremes are things like a problem with the transmission’s valve body, or even something mechanically wrong with the shifter mechanism that pokes through the floor into the cabin.
A transmission specialist is your best bet, as chances are they’ve seen this exact problem on the same make and model many times over, and will be able to pinpoint the problem quickly.
This is the vehicle thinking that it’s being taken without the ignition key. In other words, stolen. The solution is to connect the negative terminal, then quickly put the key in the ignition and turn it on. This will let the car know that the key is present and there’s no threat of it being stolen.
Don’t be tempted to insert and turn the key to the on position and then connect the battery, as this could cause the battery terminal to throw a spark which is dangerous and could even send an electrical spike through the car’s computer.
You may also find that locking and unlocking with the key fob will also silence the alarm, but using the ignition key will be the quickest way to do this and minimise your neighbours’ wrath.
This is an increasingly common question as car makers take the decision to delete the conventional transmission dipstick from their cars. It’s probably down to the fact that modern transmissions claim to be sealed for life (many mechanics disagree with this) but the move probably also has something to do with preventing owner tinkering as well as the cost saving in not including a dipstick.
But for car owners like yourself who like to keep an eye on what’s happening under the bonnet, the way to check the transmission fluid all takes place underneath the car. Once you have access to the car’s nether regions, you’ll find an inspection plug on the transmission. If you remove this plug, you should find the level of the transmission just touching the lip of the plug-hole. If any drains out, the transmission is too full. If the level is too low (below the lip) you can add flid through this inspection hole.
The catch is that sometimes (follow the instructions in the owner’s manual for the detailed method) you need to have the car running and the transmission at normal operating temperature. Obviously, there are safety implications involved here, especially if you don’t have access to a workshop with a hoist.
With all that said, some Hyundais are, in fact, fitted with a conventional dipstick, making this check much easier. Again, your owner’s manual should reveal all.
Because you’ve already logged the problem with your dealer, it should be on file as a pre-existing condition. Now that it has become worse, you need to take it back to the dealer and have it checked again. If the dealer won’t look at it for you, you need to do two things. First, have the vehicle independently assessed by a transmission specialist. Secondly, you should take the matter to Hyundai’s Australian customer service division.
The symptoms you’ve described are consistent with problems far too commonly found in dual-clutch transmissions. Shuddering and slow gear selection are far from unknown in this make and model, and Hyundai even had a software update to try to alleviate these problems. At the very least, the dealer could try the new software, but if left unchecked you could end up with a dead transmission that could cost many thousands to replace. So it’s crucial to keep the dealer and Hyundai Australia in the loop to maintain your warranty cover.
What you need to do is work backwards and check every connection and wiring plug that is anywhere near where you were working. A single unplugged (or even loose) sensor, connection or fitting can absolutely sideline a modern, electronically controlled engine.
You may also find you’ve damaged a sensor in the process of cleaning it (they’re pretty sensitive things) so a scan of the car may reveal that.
Also, was the cleaning process initiated by an existing problem that made you think the sensors needed cleaning? Cleaning an already dud sensor rarely brings it back to life.
My information suggests the crank-angle sensor for this engine is located on the rear of the cylinder block (near where the engine joins the transmission) near the oil filter housing. It’s usually hidden by a small heat shield and requires that and a 10mm bolt to be removed to remove the sensor.
Access to the wiring harness is usually from above, but the sensor itself is most easily removed from underneath the car after removing any relevant plastic shielding.