Hyundai Problems

It all depends on how you define long and bulky. But no seven-seater is going to be exactly small, is it? That’s because, to accommodate the third row of seats necessary to seat seven a vehicle physically has to be a certain length and there’s just no getting around that.

But I take your point; a lot of the seven-seat SUVs out there do seem pretty big. Again, however, that’s not a bad thing if you plan to fill all three rows of seats and still have some room left for luggage. The smaller seven-seaters aren’t all that good at this as the third row gobbles up the luggage space, making these cars best for those who only need seven seats on an occasional basis. If that’s your situation there are lots of mid-sized seven seaters around, but they’re pretty much all SUVs.

And while it goes against your preference for a smaller vehicle, the very best seven-seaters aren’t SUVs. They’re usually people-mover vans such as the Ford Tourneo, Kia Carnival and VW ID. Buzz. In fact, some of these even seat eight. They’re also a lot better for accessing the rearmost row of seats and they’ll still have lots of luggage space even with all seats occupied. And, yes, they look big, but that’s physics for you.

In the meantime, you could look at slightly less bulky options including the Hyundai Santa Fe, Kia Sorento, Mazda CX-80 and Toyota Kluger. There’s also been speculation recently that Subaru’s seven-seat Tribeca might make a return to the Australian market.

This is probably a case of a bad brake light switch inside the car (usually attached to the brake pedal mechanism itself). These switches can fail in the on or off position, leaving you with either no brake lights at all, or the problem you now have.

The good news is that it’s not a tough thing to fix, nor should it be expensive. The average mechanical workshop should be able to do it, and the new switch should be readily available from auto parts stores and online.

This model Hyundai i40 had two different automatic transmissions depending on which engine was fitted. If you have the petrol engine, the transmission will be a conventional torque converter six-speed automatic. However, if your car has the turbo-diesel engine, the transmission will be a seven-speed dual-clutch unit. At which point things change.

These dual-clutch units (and not just Hyundai’s) have shown themselves to be a bit under-engineered in some respects. And when they start to develop wear in the clutch packs, they can definitely start to behave poorly including rough shifting, shuddering when moving off and other problems.

But either way, you are going to need the services of a transmission specialist to determine what’s wrong. Even if you have the conventional automatic version, you might still find it has serious internal wear or failures, but only a detailed diagnosis will tell you the whole story.

On the other hand, you might be lucky and simply have a transmission with low fluid level that will be restored to health by a top up of that fluid. You’ll still need to find from where it’s escaping, however, as this is a sealed system and should not lose fluid over time.

Just for starters, I really need to know what year the car is and what engine it has before even knowing where to start looking for the problem. But in most cases like yours, the solution will be to do with either the fuel or spark in the engine and/or the computer that controls these functions.

You could have something like a poor earth connection, which sounds simple but can be a real trial to locate. But equally, there could be a glitch in the fuel system such as a lazy pump with an intermittent fault, or something in the ignition that is momentarily dropping the ball. A faulty sensor can also throw up problems just like this one.

The best advice is to have the car scanned for fault codes as this will put you a long way towards homing in on the actual cause.

At more than 10 years old, your car is well and truly out of warranty, even though it hasn’t covered a huge distance. You could certainly contact Hyundai Australia’s customer service department and ask the question. In my experience, Hyundai has taken its customer complaints very seriously and has a good track record of putting things right.

Most of this series of Hyundai Accents had a conventional automatic transmission which seems pretty good on the reliability front. But if your car is a Series 2 Accent, then it might be fitted with the company’s CVT transmission. These have been known to give trouble due to input shaft failures, and this could certainly cause the death rattle you’re hearing. Again, though, you’re a long way out of the five-year warranty your car was sold new with.

Depending on the amount of fumes visible (it’s not actually steam) this could be a small or large problem. Here’s how that works: A small amount of white fumes from the oil filler cap is not so bad, but what you don’t want to see are gales of the stuff blowing out when you remove the cap.

These fumes are caused by pressure from the combustion process in the cylinders finding their way into the crankcase. As an engine wears, more and more pressure can find its way into the crankcase, increasing the fumes. When the fumes increase, this is a clue that your piston rings (among other things) are becoming worn over time and kilometres.

But you could also be looking at a car with a faulty PCV valve. This valve has the job of removing the fumes and sending them back through the engine to be burnt a second time. But if the valve is faulty, the engine won’t be vented sufficiently and the fumes suddenly become visible again. So, have the car checked out at a workshop who will be able to perform a compression test to tell whether the engine is in good internal condition or not, as well as check the PCV valve for correct operation, If the problem is the latter, it’s an easy, cheap fix.

If the engine is not getting hot and the temperature gauge is reading normal, it’s difficult to see how the coolant could be boiling. Perhaps what you’re seeing is the coolant in the overflow bottle bubbling, which can appear as though it’s boiling. But the reality might be that you have a leaking cylinder head gasket.

When that happens, gasses from the combustion process can escape into the engine’s coolant system and appear as bubbles in the overflow system. And to the observer, that can look very much like boiling coolant.

Either way, you need to find a good workshop that can check this stuff and figure out what’s really going on. Only then can you diagnose the root problem and tackle it.

You haven’t actually told me what the shock absorber issue is. Is it a vibration, a lack of damping, a clunk? Either way, if there’s an issue with the shock absorber, then it should definitely be replaced, whether it’s linked to the strut-top bearing problem or not.

Best practice is to always replace things like shock absorbers in pairs. The same goes for suspension bushes, ball-joints, brake components, tyres and more. If they work as a pair, they should be replaced together.