Toyota Problems

If you find a good Datsun 720 ute, then go for it. Like most vehicles from the late '70s and '80s, they rust away.

Is it better than the contemporary HiLux? Probably not, judging from what Wheels magazine had to say in its August 1981 4x2 single-cab diesel comparison by esteemed road tester, Brian Woodward, featuring the HiLux against the Datsun 720, Ford Courier and Holden Rodeo:

"Datsun has radial tyres as standard but they don't do handling much good; ride is choppiest of the four. Bench seat makes best use of space but cabin is claustrophobic. Engine gives most power but is truck-like with plenty of diesel clatter. Column shift works well. Load space and access is good."

Of the HiLux: "Toyota feels most car-like, is quietest of four and has most practical gear ratios. But it doesn't set standards for suspension control. Cabin is light and airy. Engine gives HiLux best performance and economy. Dash controls are easy to use. Deck is as for others."

"None of the four is a worthwhile alternative to a car or a serious rival for the good old Aussie ute, but the Toyota comes close. It is the one we would choose..."

Wheels then went on to compare the same new 1981 HiLux against the Holden WB Kingswood 3300 ute, with the following conclusion:

"The Toyota has plenty of ground clearance, useful low gearing and fine economy – a very different picture to that of the Holden and one which gives the Japanese a clear advantage as a practical workhorse. But utes are not only workhorses – they may have to carry pigs in the back on Friday but on Saturday they are expected to be able to take the missus to the shops (this was 1981, remember, Ed.). And it's here that the Toyota falls down. It's too commercial."

That all said, we'd buy on condition. If you find a HiLux that's in better shape than the 720, we'd go for that. But as you said, the Datsun is a rarer thing, and a delightfully period piece of engineering in its own right.

We hope this contemporary perspective of the Datsun 720 and Toyota HiLux helps.

The stop-start function on modern cars works according to a variety of protocols. Fundamentally, if the car’s battery can cope with not having the engine running, then it will trigger the fuel-saving measure when the car is stationary. But, if the battery is low (you’ve recently been running in electric-only mode, for instance) or you have the car’s lights or air-conditioning switched on and the stereo blaring, then the car may decide that it needs to keep the engine running to keep those systems running. If that’s the case, the stop-start function will be over-ruled.

You’re probably looking at two different, distinct problems here. It’s pretty unlikely that the car’s horn has anything to do with the reverse camera and vice-versa. The fact that the horn sometimes works and sometimes doesn’t suggests a wiring problem rather than anything wrong with the actual horn unit. You need to check the contacts along the entire horn circuit including the contacts on the horn itself as well as the contacts within the steering wheel that trigger the horn. In modern cars with air-bags, however, this is not a job for the casual tinkerer. Don’t forget the fuse-box, as the horn circuit will have a fuse and this could have shaken loose over time leading to the on-off problem.

The reverse camera problem could be down to the screen or the camera unit itself. Again, you need to check all the connections to make sure that everything is connected tightly and that no moisture has managed to get into the circuit (which is entirely possible as the tiny camera unit is mounted on the outside of the vehicle). And while it might sound silly, check that the lens of the camera isn’t covered in dirt or grease which could also leave you with no image on the screen. Clearly, when you select reverse and the screen goes blank, the camera system is trying to show you what’s behind you, so power is getting to part of the circuit. But either the camera isn’t picking up an image, or the screen is refusing to display it. An auto electrician sounds like a good one-stop shop for both your problems.

The problem you have is that the car was already nine months out of warranty when the problem was first noticed. Even though the pump did not require replacement right there and then, if a leak has started, then the pump is damaged or worn and will eventually need replacement. There’s also a distinct probability that the leak had started weeks before it was spotted by your service workshop, so it may have been even closer to the warranty period when the problem first occurred.

I’m with you on this one; 39,000km is not good enough for a modern car to begin to require major replacement parts like a water pump. Rather than go through your dealership, consider contacting Toyota Australia’s customer service division directly and stating your case. Interestingly, since 2019, Toyota has offered a five-year warranty on its new cars and perhaps, if you’ve been a repeat customer or always had your Kluger serviced at a Toyota dealership, then you might find Toyota will help out even to the extent of providing the pump for you to have installed at your expense. If you don’t ask, you won’t get.

In Australia, this model Prado was available in GX, GXL, VX and Grande trim levels. There was a TX model for some markets globally, but if your car is a private import from elsewhere, then it’s an absolute crap-shoot trying to decipher its options and standard fitments.

With that in mind, if it is either a GX, GXL or VX, then it won’t have a button to control the rear ride height, because the only Australian-delivered 120-Series Prado to have this feature was the Grande. The reason your vehicle sits too high probably has more to do with a previous owner fitting heavier rear springs to account for fully-loaded touring or towing a decent sized trailer.

The cars that are going up in price at a, frankly, frightening rate are cars that appeal to enthusiast drivers out there. Older Holdens and Fords and anything with a performance bent to it seem to be falling into this category. But since you don’t seem too fussed about what you buy, you can still find really good cars for under $5000. I’d start by looking at things like Toyota Camrys from the 1990s. These are good, solid, dependable cars and can be had comfortably within your budget. They’re not the most exciting cars to drive, but provided you find one that hasn’t already been worked to death, it should go for years.

Only two six-cylinder diesel options were available in the LandCruiser from 2000 onwards. The 100 Series used a 4.2-litre turbo-diesel six-cylinder (dubbed the 1HD-FTE) which has lots of performance and a great reputation for reliability and durability. The base-model version of the 100 Series (officially known as the 105 Series) used the non-turbocharged 4.2-litre six-cylinder diesel (the 1HZ) which is even more long-lived with many owners recording more that half-a-million kilometres without major issues. The catch is that the 1HZ with just 96kW of power and 285Nm of torque felt pretty underwhelming in the relatively heavy LandCruiser. The turbocharged 1HD-FTE, meanwhile, could muster up a more meaningful 151kW and 430Nm. Both those engine options ran until the end of the 100 Series which was eventually replaced by the 200 Series in 2007. At that point, the only diesel engine offered was the twin-turbo V8 diesel. Early examples of this engine gave some problems, but Toyota made running changes to improve that and the V8 Diesel is now also highly regarded.

It’s definitely true that the march of new-car technology is making big changes to the cars we’re being offered almost on a monthly basis. So, if your current car is just three years old, it might be worth holding on to it and waiting for the next big thing to arrive in showrooms. Certainly, by trading-in at just three years, you’ll pretty much max out the depreciation you’ll suffer in financial terms.

But by waiting, you might find that you can buy an electric vehicle and be able to tap into newer and better infrastructure that will be in place in another few years, rather than put up with the relatively sparse charging-station network currently in this country.

At the moment, a hybrid or plug-in hybrid is a pretty good way to go, provided you use the vehicle mostly in an urban setting, rather than long-distance freeway journeys where the hybrid tech is less advantageous. A hybrid is not exactly future-proof, but it’s a good next step for a lot of Australian car-owners.

As for what brand is best, the tech is getting better and better as time goes by, so it’s likely to be build date rather than brand that will determine the efficiency of the vehicle in question. That said, car owners can’t hold off forever when it comes to upgrading, so for the moment, a hybrid or plug-in hybrid is a logical next car. We’re particularly impressed by the current-model Toyota Camry which is good value to buy, a classy driving experience and offers hybrid fuel efficiency in the right environment. Such cars will be a lot of Australian families’ first hybrid, and rightly so.

You really have two ways to go here. The fact that you want to go off-road in the best/worst conditions this country has to offer means an SUV or cross-over just isn’t going to cut it. With that in mind, you’re looking at either a dual-cab ute or a conventional four-wheel-drive wagon.

In the ute world, there’s plenty of choice within your budget, but you need to be careful that the vehicle in question hasn’t been worked to death by a tradie towing a bobcat Monday to Friday. The popularity of these vehicles, meanwhile, means that there’s lots of choice when it comes to aftermarket bits and pieces to complete your dream vehicle.

The other route – a conventional wagon-style 4X4 – also places a lot of choice within your budget. The Toyota LandCruiser Prado would be a good choice, as would something like a Mitsubishi Pajero which has always represented good value for money both brand-new and second-hand. You could also look at Nissan Patrols which also give you plenty of car for the money and, if you shop carefully, you could find a really nice LandCruiser 80 Series, reckoned by some to be the absolute pinnacle of off-road wagons, even though they’re getting on a bit now. There’s great aftermarket and service support for all these options, so it will come down to your personal preferences.

If you liked the RAV4, then a newer, more modern RAV 4 should be on your shopping list. Your budget gets you into a RAV 4 from, say 2012 or 2013, and these were, in fact, available in two-wheel-drive (since you no longer need all-wheel-drive).

The march of technology means that the RAV 4 used less fuel with every generation, so it’s worth comparing your car’s fuel economy with the later version. While early versions of the RAV 4 (like the own you once owned) would have trouble beating 10 litres per 100km, the more modern RAV 4 from 2013 will easily consume less than eight litres per 100km over the same distance. If you drive carefully, that difference could be even greater. Don’t confuse the continuation of a badge with the stagnation of technology.