Toyota Problems

Toyota’s approach to this matter is interesting. When it comes to the hybrid versions of the new Corolla, the SX variant gets a space-saver spare while the ZR hybrid gets a repair kit. But some of the other petrol-only and entry-level models get a space-saver and a repair kit.

The repair kit will work provided you’re familiar with how to use it and the leak in the tyre isn’t a huge, gaping gash in the sidewall. If that’s the case, you’re snookered. But if it’s just a nail you’ve run over that’s causing the leak, the repair kit will work. Even so, your next destination should be a tyre shop to have the puncture repaired properly.

Space-saver spares are another matter. While they’ll get you going again after a flat tyre, they can make a vehicle very unstable to drive at any speed and over any distance. That’s why they have an 80km-at-80km/h limit applied to them. But as an alternative to walking home, they’re better than nothing. But since some Corollas come with both a space-saver spare and a repair kit, why not lean on the salesperson when doing the deal and asking them to include one of each? Make it a condition of the sale and I bet you’ll get what you want.

The other thing to think about is what you’re likely to do if you get a flat tyre. Are you the sort of person who’s going to change a flat tyre themselves and continue on, or are you the urban-dwelling, roadside-assistance type who will call for back-up? If you’re the latter – and there’s no shame in that - then none of this stuff matters in the first place.

The answer will depend on what brand and type of roof rack you use. Different brands of racks have different ratings, but most seem to be able to cope with between 60 and 75kg.

That then switches the question to what size kayaks you have. A small, single kayak is likely to be around the 15kg mark, while a large, double kayak can weigh anything up to 45kg. You need to weigh your kayaks together and then work out if they’re suitable for roof-rack transport. Either way, a quality rack will always be a safer bet than a cheap one. Make sure, too, that the rack you choose has fixing points appropriate for the load being carried.
 

You’re probably looking at two different, distinct problems here. It’s pretty unlikely that the car’s horn has anything to do with the reverse camera and vice-versa. The fact that the horn sometimes works and sometimes doesn’t suggests a wiring problem rather than anything wrong with the actual horn unit. You need to check the contacts along the entire horn circuit including the contacts on the horn itself as well as the contacts within the steering wheel that trigger the horn. In modern cars with air-bags, however, this is not a job for the casual tinkerer. Don’t forget the fuse-box, as the horn circuit will have a fuse and this could have shaken loose over time leading to the on-off problem.

The reverse camera problem could be down to the screen or the camera unit itself. Again, you need to check all the connections to make sure that everything is connected tightly and that no moisture has managed to get into the circuit (which is entirely possible as the tiny camera unit is mounted on the outside of the vehicle). And while it might sound silly, check that the lens of the camera isn’t covered in dirt or grease which could also leave you with no image on the screen. Clearly, when you select reverse and the screen goes blank, the camera system is trying to show you what’s behind you, so power is getting to part of the circuit. But either the camera isn’t picking up an image, or the screen is refusing to display it. An auto electrician sounds like a good one-stop shop for both your problems.

We haven’t heard of the Kluger jumping out of gear as a common problem, but it’s definitely one you need a mechanic to look at as there’s an obvious safety implication if you lose drive at a critical moment. The 'flaring' could simply be the behaviour that’s been programmed into the vehicle at the factory. The idea is that when you start to use large throttle inputs (say, when overtaking) the vehicle interprets that as you driving on a winding, uphill road. So, to keep the engine making lots of power, it holds on to a lower gear than seems normal. And that’s what you’re feeling when the revs stay high beyond your overtaking move. Try adjusting the car’s mode from Sport to Normal or even Economy, at which point the transmission should become a little less frenetic.

The good news is that, if there’s something wrong, your car should still be covered by Toyota’s factory warranty (which was three-years/100,000km when your car was bought new) so make it Toyota’s problem. If you’re not happy with your dealer, talk to Toyota Australia’s customer service department.

There are still plenty of great small cars around within your budget, Agnes, and they all have good safety packages (or we wouldn’t recommend them). Look at offerings such as the Suzuki Swift Navigator (with the optional autonomous emergency braking) for around $17,000 (plus on-road costs) or the Kia Rio S at around $19,000 or Kia Picanto S (one size smaller than the Rio) at closer to $16,000. Both the Kias also feature the brand’s excellent seven-year warranty, capped-price servicing and free roadside assistance which is great peace of mind.

The Volkswagen Polo is a classy drive but a little more expensive at closer to $21,000 for the 85TSi Comfortline. Actually, to be honest, you’ve missed the boat on bargain small cars by a couple of years. Firm favourites such as the Toyota Yaris and Mazda 2 have both been updated relatively recently and have recorded big price jumps in the process. The cheapest Yaris with an automatic transmission is now around $23,000 (it was less than $17,000 back in 2018) while the Mazda 2 Maxx went from being a sub-$17,000 proposition in 2018 to a $23,000 car by the time you add an automatic transmission in 2020.

I’ll take a stab in the dark here and suggest that your van is a turbo-diesel (there was a petrol version offered as well, but the diesel was much more popular). If that’s the case, you could be dealing with a turbocharger that’s showing wear. Specifically, this is likely to be in the turbo’s bearing which will become noisy (and potentially emit a whistling noise) as the bearing starts to degrade. Turbochargers often spin at speeds of up to 250,000rpm, so the bearing really has its work cut out.

The clue to all this is that the vehicle starts whistling when you press the throttle; that is, when you place a load on the engine and ask the turbocharger to start providing boost. That’s when the worn bearing becomes loaded (and noisy). But you could also be looking at something much simpler such as an exhaust that has collapsed internally and is offering a whistling soundtrack, or even a loose piece of intake plumbing that is also allowing the air passing over it to whistle. Perhaps there’s something in the gearbox that is making a high-pitched noise as well. You really need to have the vehicle looked at by somebody who knows their HiAces and take it from there.
 

The Kluger released in 2014 was initially only fitted with navigation in the flagship Grande model. But the facelift of the model in 2017 saw navigation become standard on the mid-spec GXL model, so that model now looks like the most cost-effective way into a Kluger with factory-fitted navigation.

I haven’t heard of a local class action against Toyota for this problem. It’s a mistake to assume that Australian and USA consumer laws have too much in common, so what happens in North America regarding recalls and fixes isn’t always mirrored here. But it is a fact that Toyota in the USA and Canada has agreed to repaint some of its models that were originally painted in either of two shades of white. In those cases, the paint delaminated from the undercoat and literally fell off the car.

What’s much more common in Australia is that the clear-coat (the outer layer of clear paint that gives the finished car its gloss) fails and starts to peel or flake off. By the time that’s happened, the actual colour-coat is usually compromised, too, and repainting the vehicle is the best bet. Metallic colours are notorious for this happening (they are the most likely to use a clear-over-base paint finish) and it’s by no means a Toyota-specific problem.

It happens because the paint used can’t handle Australian levels of heat and UV radiation and it simply fails chemically. Cars from the 1980s and 90s were probably the worst offenders, but some newer cars also suffer the same problem, usually when they’re out of warranty, of course. And just as it isn’t limited to Toyotas, nor is the problem specific to imported cars; plenty of Aussie made Fords and Holdens suffered the same paint deterioration.

The Yaris Cross will be more than capable of maintaining a speed of 110km/h on the freeway, Fred. The hybrid driveline, however, is all about saving fuel, not making it the performance leader of the Yaris Cross family. Bear in mind, you have two options with a Yaris Cross Hybrid; two or four-wheel-drive, and the latter is going to be a bit slower to reach cruising speed thanks to the extra mass of that driveline in what is already a relatively hefty (hybrid) hatchback.

Given you’ve nominated some gravel-road use (not to mention shallow water crossings) I reckon the all-wheel-drive Hybrid might just be the one for you (and your wife). The extra grip of all-wheel-drive when it could be of most benefit (which will be relatively often on loose gravel surfaces) buys you an extra safety margin. As for water crossings, even though it has lots of batteries, controllers and an electric motor on board, Toyota tells me that the Hybrid version of the Yaris Cross has been tested to the same standards as any other Yaris Cross version.