Warranty

I recently bought a used 2010 Polo from a Volkswagen dealership and they assured me that it had not been in any incident and it didn’t have big issues. Today, about two weeks after buying, I had my mechanic check the car just in case there were minor things to fix (as you would expect with a used car). The report from the mechanic is that the car has indeed had large repairs, that the positive cabling to fuse box on battery is getting hot and the insulation had melted, there are oil leaks on the underside of the vehicle, the mechatronics unit is leaking and that the engine bay had been steam-cleaned to hide the oil leaks. The dealership even serviced the car before handing it over. I went straight to them and talked with a manager. He said they will check the car and they will call me. I’d like them to buy the car back as this is not what I thought I was buying. What should I do?

Hi, I'd like to get some advice please. I'm looking to buy a 2013 Audi A5, 2.0-litre Quattro convertible. The car has travelled 40,500km. My concern is the automatic transmission on the car, which is the Audi seven-speed S-Tronic. As with the VW DSG transmission, I know there were a lot of issues with these transmissions. This is my concern with buying the car. Should I buy an extended warranty on the car?

I brought a 2007 Mazda 6 the other day and now my transfer case is stuffed. What can I do about this problem?

I've already changed the clutch lining on my 2017 MU-X as I assumed it had a slipping clutch. The power to accelerate up hills improved, but it feels like the engine is having difficulty making more power at high speed and I can hear some unusual sounds from the engine bay whenever I step harder on the throttle. I had my oil changed, and the oil and air filters were also changed. Now I think I spent money for nothing. There is something wrong in the engine I can't figure out. I’d appreciate your input.

I just took delivery of a 2020 Kona hybrid and five days later the car will not open from the remote and I have to use the skeleton key. Upon entry, the car will not start and I have to push the reset battery button on the side for it to start. This has happened twice in the 10 days since I picked it up. Anyone else with this problem?

I bought a 2013 Holden Captiva brand-new. The diesel-particulate warning light and beeps came on and made the car sluggish. It was sent back to the dealer but they could not recreate the problem in eight weeks. Then, it started blowing black smoke and required $5000 worth of fuel-injectors one month after warranty. Two starter motors later and limp-home mode has always been intermittent.

Now the particulate filter won't regenerate anymore, so we’re doing forced regeneration regularly. I went to new Holden dealer who said it could be easily fix, but they only ended up doing a forced regeneration. The vehicle is now due for service but no one wants to service it.

I was told to go to an auto electrician. The first week the codes cleared and the car drove well. Next forced regeneration and other codes came up. I’ve even fitted an exhaust temp sensor. The car has done 222,280 kms. Please help.

I have just recently purchased a 2020 Freestyle cab-chassis Mazda BT-50 fitted with an aluminium tray through the dealer. The right-hand side of the tray was 35mm higher than the left when looking from the rear. It was returned to the dealer to rectify and was then returned approximately 15mm higher. The dealer said this is normal and inside the tolerances, which apparently allow up to 20mm difference.

The dealer even suggesting that the fuel tank being on the left-hand side would contribute to the problem. However, an empty or full tank seems to make no difference. Since the rectification, the tray is now returning to the 35mm difference as before. Is this something that is normally seen? Or should this be more level then it is? I have had three other trade utes and have never seen this issue before.

My new M-UX has an error code "check system" when putting it in Park. It also loses the display letters (D, R, P etc) and when this happens and it blows a 15-amp fuse.

My Ford Territory, when cold, will not go into reverse. It will when the car is warmed up and will engage after a small delay after a couple of seconds. We bought the car new and had a full replacement gearbox under warranty after only 25,000km. The car has now done 101,000 kms.

I recently had my car serviced by a VW specialist and the person that serviced it advised me that the water pump had some sweating. I subsequently took it to a dealer for a second opinion. They advised me that there wasn't a problem with it. I have been monitoring the coolant levels and haven't noticed any movement. I know these cars can have problems with water pumps but the vehicle I have has only travelled 14,008 kms and is serviced religiously. My question is do I get a third opinion?