Holden Problems

Not every Colorado suffers this problem, but there are certainly a percentage that do. It’s a relatively common thing with this model and the first sign is a stain that develops on the roof lining in the rear seat just above the rear window. It’s caused by water entering the cabin through the high-mount brake light assembly.

The problem is caused by the light’s seals that fail over time, and the fix is to remove the light, clean the area around it and then seal it with panel sealer (or something similar) from the outside. If you’re fussy, you can replace the whole light assembly, but that won’t fix the failed seal, so you’ll still need to reseal the area where the light mounts.

The first thing to do is check the fluid level in the transmission. Problems like this are often caused by a low fluid level, so that’s where to start. The problem then is that the Captiva’s transmission doesn’t have a conventional dipstick, so the level is checked by getting the vehicle up to operating temperature and then removing the fill bung (on the transmission next to the left-hand driveshaft. Obviously, you need to car off the ground to do this.

If a little fluid drips out of the fill bung when you remove it, the fluid level is correct. If not, you need to add fluid until it does start to drip back out. If the transmission is low on fluid, you’re also dealing with a leak, because this is a sealed system and should not require top-ups.

Don’t be tempted to continue driving the vehicle as it is, as the fluid not only provides the drive for the transmission, it also lubricates the moving parts. So operating it with a low fluid level can cause permanent damage to the unit.

This is very possibly a fault with the power supply to the fuel pump rather than the pump itself. The clue is that the fuel gauge started playing games just before the engine shut down. The fuel gauge is controlled by the sender which is usually in the tank with the pump. They’re often supplied power by the same wiring. So any problem with the power to the fuel pump would also possibly show up as a fuel gauge that’s making strange movements.

Start by checking the power supply to the pump, but don’t rule out a poor earth somewhere in there as well. Even though the fuse is okay, if the power wire or earth wire is loose/corroded/faulty/dirty/short-circuiting, then you may have found the problem.

Any remedy can only be suggested once you know what’s causing the problem. The first step, then, is to have the car scanned to see if there’s a problem the on-board computer has identified and logged. Once you have that information, you are a lot closer to knowing what to replace.

Logic suggests that an engine that runs roughly when it’s cold might be running lean. If that’s the case, it could be caused by many things including worn injectors, a lazy fuel pump or even a temperature sensor that is not telling the computer that controls these things that the coolant temperature is low and the engine needs more fuel to compensate. Then, once the engine has warmed up, the fuel-air mixture is correct and the engine settles down and runs properly. That said, 30km is a long time for the engine to take to warm up.

You could spend lots of time and money replacing the wrong bits here, so a scan is definitely the way to proceed.

First thoughts would be that you have a fuel injector that is not spraying either the correct amount of fuel and/or in the correct pattern for proper combustion. This will certainly bring on the symptoms you’re seeing, as well as ruining fuel economy. It’s also most likely to show up if the engine has been sitting for a while.

But the reality is that a modern engine like this one has literally hundreds of electronic sensors and systems that can all add up to poor running and economy. The best bet is to have the car scanned to see if the on-board computer has logged any faults. Without this intelligence, you’re flying blind, replacing parts that may or may not fix the problem.

These little LED info-screens have been part of dashboards for years now, and they’re a known problem in many makes and models. There are specialist repairers who can either fix the screen you have or remove the dud one and fit a new one. Making sure the odometer still reads to car’s correct mileage is the trick.

Actually, that’s an important point, because a correctly working odometer is a roadworthy item. And one that flashes on and off randomly is definitely not working properly and is, therefore, making the car technically unroadworthy.

Any time a vehicle with the DOHC Holden V6 is mentioned as having a starting problem or check-engine light illuminated, mechanics will often go straight to the engine’s timing chain to check its wear. That’s because this engine is notorious for such antics and, when they occur, it can often mean poor starting and the dreaded check-engine light.

However, in this case, the engine in question was an Isuzu-designed unit that doesn’t seem to have the same rash of timing chain problems. Which means you need to go back to basics and have the vehicle scanned to see if the onboard computer has logged the root cause of any problems.

The fact that the check engine light is flickering and the starting problem is an intermittent one could mean anything, but a good place to start checking would be the various earthing points around the vehicle. Bad earths are a common cause for this sort of problem.

The condition of the car’s battery is also a smart place to begin investigations. A lack of power in the battery is enough to make a lot of electronically fuel-injected vehicles throw in the towel on a random basis.

The alarm you’re seeing is the car’s way of telling you that it’s been working hard and needs attention sooner rather than later. The on-board computer will be monitoring all sorts of parameters including the engine oil level and condition and the state of the air-filter element. Either of those things (and a large number of others) could be the trigger for the alarm you’re seeing. But it could also be due to the transmission being heated to a point where the computer says enough, or even an actual problem somewhere in the driveline such as a low coolant level.

The best thing to do is have the vehicle serviced as per its own request. The workshop might be able to tell you the cause of the alarm, but either way, maintenance is due. Towing a caravan places a lot of extra stress on the engine and transmission, while hot and dusty conditions also take their mechanical toll.

The black panels you refer to are nothing more than a styling touch. The idea is to make the panels black so they look like they’re part of the rear window, therefore appearing to make the window wider and the whole car wider and lower. Does it work on a Captiva? Not really.

A manual car that jumps out of gear is usually a case of a worn gearbox. As the internals and gear selectors wear over time, they become loose, allowing the vehicle to jump into neutral.

The first check would be to see that the external linkage to the gearbox (a cable in the Barina’s case) is correctly adjusted and not about to fall apart. If that’s the case, you might find that the selector is not fully engaging each gear, and that’s why it’s jumping out of that gear. But beyond that, the problem is likely to be caused by wear inside the mechanical bits of the transmission.