Holden Problems

The black panels you refer to are nothing more than a styling touch. The idea is to make the panels black so they look like they’re part of the rear window, therefore appearing to make the window wider and the whole car wider and lower. Does it work on a Captiva? Not really.

A manual car that jumps out of gear is usually a case of a worn gearbox. As the internals and gear selectors wear over time, they become loose, allowing the vehicle to jump into neutral.

The first check would be to see that the external linkage to the gearbox (a cable in the Barina’s case) is correctly adjusted and not about to fall apart. If that’s the case, you might find that the selector is not fully engaging each gear, and that’s why it’s jumping out of that gear. But beyond that, the problem is likely to be caused by wear inside the mechanical bits of the transmission.

You really can’t afford to take any chances with a car’s steering system. The thought of this crucial system failing even at low speeds doesn’t bear thinking about, so if there’s any play or looseness in the system, it needs to be diagnosed and fixed properly with new parts if necessary.

Meantime, Loctite and other thread-locking products are designed to stop fasteners coming loose. These products are not designed to take up slack in worn parts and shouldn’t be used that way. Even if the thread-locker stops the fastening nut coming loose, it won’t do anything about the slack in the joint you’ve already noted.

I think you’re on the right track by concentrating on the information being conveyed by the crank-angle sensor. But the problem is more likely to be a stretched timing chain rather than a dud sensor. The V6 engine in your Colorado is notorious for this problem and, when it happens, it throws the camshafts out of synch with the crankshaft. When the crank-angle sensor and the camshaft-angle sensor can’t agree that the positions of the crankshaft and camshafts relative to each other are correct, the problems start.

This lack of synchronisation is one of the things the crank-angle sensor is paid to look for and why it’s limiting engine speed or not allowing the engine to start at all. By clearing the fault code and disconnecting the crank-angle sensor, you’re stopping the error information being sent to the ECU and the ute starts first time (it’s probably taking a camshaft-angle reference when it can’t find the crank-angle information).

The old M20 four-speed transmission wasn’t exactly a sophisticated piece of equipment, but it was a pretty tough thing. In any case, this sounds more like a clutch problem. Wear or damage in the clutch can cause all sorts of difficult shifting, and the big clue here is that it will do so only when the engine is running, not when it’s switched off.

You may find it’s a case of poorly adjusted shift linkages or a damaged shifter, but all the signs point to a broken clutch.

This is one of those 'how long is a piece of string' questions. It all depends on where the oil leak is coming from and what is involved in fixing it. If it’s a simple loose fitting that can be tightened in a minute or two, then it won’t cost much. But if the leak is coming from a gasket that requires the entire engine to be removed and disassembled to replace, then the cost will be much, much more.

Oil and coolant leaks can emanate from a huge number of locations on a modern engine, Sometimes just finding the source can take longer than actually fixing it. The best approach is to thoroughly clean the engine of all oil and gunk, and then drive it and keep checking until the oil reappears and track it back to the source.

There are literally hundreds of things that can cause a check-engine light in a modern, computer-controlled car. A problem with the ignition, fuel system, emissions-control system, air-intake, lubrication, cooling and much, much more can cause this light to illuminate.

The best way to proceed is to have the vehicle electronically scanned. That way, the computer can tell the mechanic where the problem is and, hopefully, precisely what’s causing the check-engine light to flicker on.

For the record, however, a common fault with the V6 engine in this series of Commodores is a stretched timing chain that the computer interprets as incorrect valve timing (which it is). Plenty of owners of this model have discovered this as the cause of their check-engine light.

The first conclusion many mechanics will arrive at is that the engine’s head gasket has blown, allowing the oil and coolant to mix. Have a look at the dipstick. If the engine oil is milky, then this is a very real possibility. Perhaps when the cylinder head was replaced, the gasket has not sealed properly.

But if the oil cooler was replaced because it was leaking into the radiator (which is pretty common) then you might find that the oil you’re still seeing is just residual oil from the previous failure, and not a problem at all. Even so, it would be wise to replace the coolant and flush the system to try to eradicate all traces of the old oil.

A workshop can perform a chemical-based test to see if the head gasket is leaking. It’s worth the relatively small cost to rule this out and begin to look elsewhere.