Holden Commodore Problems

The fact that it’s running roughly once it’s warmed up suggests you have a problem with either the head gasket or the head, even though there’s apparently no oil in the coolant. Try and identify which cylinder, or cylinders, are misfiring and remove that head to check it.

Ignition coil failures have been an often reported failure on Commodores going back a number of models; it's not necessarily something new. I couldn't say the others will fail any time soon, after all the two failed coils did 184,000 km before giving up.

Consulting a brake specialist, like Howard Reynolds at Race Brakes, is always worth doing. Car makers fit components to meet certain performance criteria, like stopping distance, fade resistance, and longevity, and it's possible to improve on some aspects by going to other, or better discs and pads.

You could, but I wouldn’t as I think it would be a waste of time. Even though you have done only a few kays, the car is six years old.

You could use E10 ethanol blend fuel in both of your cars; you could also use regular 91 in them if you wanted.

Good to know that the problem can be fixed, but I would think such a rework is beyond all but the most enthusiastic owners.

It’s a bit like comparing a carburetor with fuel-injection. A carburetor is really a compromise and is very difficult to tune perfectly for all running conditions, so there is often a problem where the engine coughs, splutters, misfires, stalls or surges. Electronically-controlled fuel-injection can be more precisely tuned to all running conditions, whether it’s hot, cold, wet, windy, high speed, low speed, whatever. The end result is that the car performs better and gives better economy. It’s the same with the vapour-injection system; your car will run better, it won’t stall, stumble, surge, and the performance will be the same as it would be on petrol. Whether that makes it worth the extra $1900 or so it would cost is only a question you could answer. For me it is, I wouldn’t be bothered with an old air-valves system, which is the cheaper system you would be getting.

That's a brave move after all those years driving the HG, but you've chosen a car that should give you good service. It's not possible to say it won't breakdown at any time, and if it does you won't be able to fix it yourself as you would have done with the HG. The brakes won't wear out as fast as they might on other brands, the current car doesn't appear to have the issues with ignition coils that earlier models did, and I haven't heard of reports of brake hose failures on the VE. Overall it is generally reliable and shouldn't give you too many nightmares.

Using power steering fluid instead of brake fluid is probably the reason the brake pedal went to the floor and you lost all braking. You need to have the brake system flushed and filled with new brake fluid. It also sounds like you should have the car checked to investigate why the ABS light is coming on.

No, I wouldn't waste my money on doing it, it would handle one tonne without a problem. Sure, the weight of the trailer will mean the rear suspension will ride lower and that will increase the tyre wear a little, but I don't believe that's enough to justify the expense of upgrading your suspension.