Ask The Guide

Buying the dealership’s paint protection certainly won’t do any harm, Sue, but it can be expensive as mark-ups are often huge for these products. You might do better with an aftermarket paint protection product from an independent specialist. But here’s the proposition I’d be putting to the dealer selling the car: If you can’t, in 2020, sell me a car that won’t fade or have its paint peel off, I fear we are wasting each other’s time. In fact, you could make the same argument for all those dealership add-ons, the upholstery protection, window tint and extended warranties.

Here’s another fact to consider: Regardless of whether you do or don’t buy the paint protection, the car’s finish is protected by the factory warranty just as the rest of the car is protected against faulty parts of poor assembly. Toyota even spells it out, saying that the factory warranty covers every part, panel or factory accessory. So you’ll only ever need the optional paint protection after the factory warranty has run out. Will a paint protection applied now be of any use five years – and a couple of hundred car-washes – down the track? That’s up to you.

It certainly would have had a service schedule book in the glove-box when it was delivered new, Denis. These books are important pieces of a car’s history as they show (or don’t show) that the car has been serviced correctly throughout its life. It’s one of the first things switched-on buyers look for in a second-hand car.

Unfortunately, because it’s a paper book and not a plastic or metal piece of the car, these books tend to go missing pretty often. Usually it’s just a simple case of somebody cleaning out the glove-box and throwing the book away or – more commonly – storing it somewhere safe where it will never be found again. If you want to take the more cynical view, `losing’ the service log-book is a great way of getting rid of evidence of shoddy servicing over the years.

You can approach a Subaru dealer to see if you can get a new log book, but even then it won’t show the car’s service history, only what’s been done since you obtained the new book. Even then, I’d grab a normal softcover exercise book that fits in the glove-box and use that to record each service or repair as time goes by. That will certainly be better than nothing to the person who eventually buys the car from you.

The model Kluger you are referring to uses an engine with the code-name 3MZ-FE. It uses a timing belt rather than a timing chain, so it requires periodic belt changes. This is especially important as the version of the engine fitted to your car is an interference type. That means that the pistons cannot move freely up and down if the camshafts aren’t also turning and, if the belt breaks while the engine is running, the ensuing collision between pistons and valves will probably destroy the engine.

Toyota recommends a timing-belt change every 150,000km which is actually pretty good compared with many other engines which require a new belt closer to every 100,000km or even less. The other piece of advice is to replace the belt tensioners and water pump while the engine is apart for the timing-belt replacement. It’s a lot cheaper to replace those items at that point, rather than having to open the engine up again down the track.

Even though the Journey was not a particularly popular model in Australia, I’m still a bit surprised that we don’t get this question a bit more often. Because the answer is a real doozie. While a lot of car-makers find that underbonnet space is too limited to place a battery, some resort to locating the battery either under a seat inside the car or in the boot. But not Dodge in the case of the Journey.

To access the battery in that case, you need to jack up the car, remove the front passenger’s wheel, peel back the plastic inner-guard and there, behind the corner of the front bumper, you will find the battery. For jump starting a car with a flat battery, Dodge placed a positive and negative terminal in the engine bay near the front-left suspension tower, and you’ll identify the positive by a small, red plastic cap with a `+’ moulded into it.

The HSVi plate on your car suggests it was ordered with some off-line upgrades when it was bought new. This was pretty common among those buying brand-new Holdens but for budget or company-policy reasons, couldn’t stretch to an actual HSV. The modifications were done by a sister company to HSV, called HSVindividual but the modifications themselves weren’t necessarily that same ones found on a HSV vehicle. In fact, many of the mods were pretty pedestrian, including cargo-liners for utes and even roo-bars for Holden models.

Other common modifications included sunroofs and bigger wheels and tyres and although nobody seems to have a list of what codes meant what modifications, any code that starts with `EW’ seems to relates to alloy wheels. So I’d imagine the EWT relates to that. As for FAT, I can’t find any reference to it on any information source; perhaps it has something to do with the Automatic Transmission?

US-based Bose is certainly working on a system that will cancel out noise in cars. At the moment, though, it’s not available and will probably only be fitted to brand-new cars as standard equipment. At first anyway, because tech like this has a habit of tricking down to the aftermarket. However, that’s not much help to you right now.

Wearing noise-cancelling headphones is not practical (or sensible, or legal) so you need to look at an old-school solution such as the tyres you mentioned or stripping the car’s interior and fitting a noise-suppressing matting under the carpet and inside the doors. If it’s any consolation, it’s not your imagination; Mazdas for the last 20 years have been harshly criticised for their interior noise levels when the competition seems to do it better.

Ironically, active noise cancellation technology as proposed by Bose is not to tame mechanically noisy cars, but to remove wind and road noise from electric cars which are otherwise so quiet, these secondary noises become a big nuisance.

Changing a clutch in any car is a big job and can easily cost the sort of money you’ve been quoted. And when that car is a front-wheel-drive vehicle, there are a lot of things to remove (like the driveshafts) before the gearbox can be removed and the new clutch fitted.

While I agree that the symptoms you’re reporting do sound like a worn out clutch, I’d like to know what else the mechanic thinks will be wrong. He or she may, for example, be budgeting for the removal and machining of the flywheel as part of the clutch replacement, That can easily add a couple of hundred to the bill. Also, where is the mechanic sourcing the new clutch? You may have found a replacement kit online for the $500 you’re quoting, but is it a quality part from a reputable brand or a no-name piece of rubbish from an internet clearing house?

Land Rovers of this era seem to have a few more reliability problems than other off-road vehicles from other makers. That said, they’re more complicated to start with, so that explains some of that phenomenon.

As you’ve correctly identified, Karen, a vehicle’s ability to keep on keeping on is down to far more factors than simply the age of the engine. These are big, heavy, complex machines and they suffer wear in many areas including the driveline, suspension, brakes and general body condition.

Parts for things like air suspension can be expensive, but it’s worth keeping in mind that no off-road four-wheel-drive is cheap to maintain. It comes down to how much you like the car and whether you can justify the on-costs. If you do decide to keep the old girl, finding a specialist Land Rover workshop can often save you money as these businesses specialise in the brand and know all the common problems and the servicing tricks to keep your spend down.

While the vehicle’s VIN will identify the make and model, it won’t necessarily spell out the trim level. That information is usually incorporated on to a build plate attached to the firewall or inner fender.

From June 2019, Hyundai changed the name of its entry-level `Go’ model to `Active’ so effectively, you’ve bought the base-model car anyway. If you have been sold anything other than an Active model, you’ve received a higher specification model, so I wouldn’t be complaining back at the dealership.

The six-speed automatic transmission in the Cruze built between 2011 and 2013 was, indeed, a bit suspect in some cases. Unfortunately, that puts the vehicle in question right in the middle of things. Holden instigated a fix which was applied when a car with gearbox dramas was brought in for repairs. Sometimes individual parts of the transmission could be replaced, at other times the transmission was replaced as a whole unit.

Any Cruze with a gearbox that flares during shifts, shudders, refuses to select a particular gear (including reverse) or loss of drive was covered by this special service directive. When fixed, Holden was extending the warranty of the transmission to five years or 150,000km. That won’t help you now, but it would pay to check whether the car you’re looking at has, in fact, had this work carried out. A car with these repairs carried out would be a better choice than one that hasn’t.