Ask The Guide

This is a really common concern, Raj, especially among people like you who are considering their first diesel-powered vehicle. Modern diesels are very efficient and powerful (compared with old-school diesel engines) but those benefits come with some compromises including higher maintenance costs and potential glitches such as the DPF problems you’ve noted.

DPF problems are usually the result of the filter becoming clogged with the soot from the diesel’s exhaust. There’s not much you can do about a diesel engine producing soot (apart from making sure it’s tuned properly to minimise the soot) so the filter is designed to regenerate when it starts to get full. That process requires heat and that’s where the problems start. A vehicle that is only driven around the suburbs often won’t create enough heat in the exhaust system to allow this regeneration to take place. At that point, the filter becomes clogged and requires either manually cleaning or, in some cases, replacing. Neither is a cheap process.

So, what you need to do is to take the vehicle for a drive at highway speeds to allow things to get hot enough for DPF regeneration to take place. This drive needs to be at least about 20 minutes and it needs to happen at least once a month. So the answer to your question is not really how many kilometres you need to drive, but what sort of kilometres. Even if your four-times-a-week trip to work is, indeed, 50km, if it’s all done in stop-start, low-speed traffic, then it won’t be enough.

The bottom line is that a turbo-diesel isn’t really the right vehicle for a lot of urban-based people. The catch there, is that a lot of vehicles that were once available with a choice of petrol or diesel power are now diesel-only propositions. That includes the Pajero Sport, of course.

Many owners of Suzukis of this era are shifting from the original green-coloured coolant to the long-life blue type (believe it or not, engine coolants are broadly identifiable by colour these days). Make sure that whatever brand you buy is borate and silicate-free, as this is important for Japanese engines (European engines, in comparison, need Phosphate-free coolant).

If you’re still unsure, you can buy coolant form a Suzuki dealership spare parts department and know that you’re getting the right product. One other tip; don’t mix coolants. Like oils, coolants are a sophisticated blend of base-product and additives and these formulations, when mixed, can cancel out some of the protection you’re paying for.

The real wild card you’ve thrown at me here is the must-have manual transmission caveat. Not all manufacturers still offer a manual gearbox option, and if they do, it’s nearly always on the very base model which will often be two-wheel-drive when the all-wheel-drive models are better for towing. The Toyota RAV4, generally thought to be the pick of the current mid-sized SUVs, is a great example. While there is a six-speed manual option, it’s only available on the entry level car which is also front-drive and has a towing limit of 800kg. Move up to the bigger Toyota Kluger SUV and you can suddenly tow 2000kg, but there’s no manual-gearbox option.

Speaking of which, it’s generally agreed that an automatic transmission is better for towing these days anyway. The way the automatic delivers its power and torque more smoothly, makes for better towing and less mechanical stress on the whole car.

Mitsubishi’s base-model Outlander ES is available with a manual and can tow 1600kg. Mazda’s CX-5 Maxx front-drive can also be had with a manual (six gears versus the Outlander’s five) and can tow 1800kg. Either of those should do the job, but insisting on a manual transmission will be the thing that really limits your choices.

If you’re happy with the Kia, Marissa, then I’d say you might be wise to stick with the brand you know. As you would know, your 2017 model Cerato still has at least three or maybe even four years of factory warranty to run. That’s great peace of mind and one of the reasons people keep buying Kias. You’re also a chance to do a better deal as a repeat buyer at your local dealership.

While not wishing to suggest that being 60 years of age makes somebody an `older person’ these days, the one design feature you might want to consider going forward is the option of a vehicle with a slightly higher ride height. That makes getting in and out of the car easier and the whole day-to-day experience just that little bit nicer. With that in mind, take a look at the

. It’s not the newest of designs, but it does represent a solid, reliable platform. On the bass that your mother does mainly suburban driving, the pick would be the Si front-wheel-drive version with the petrol engine and six-speed automatic transmission.

There’s no difference between the petrol engines in the 2011 Fiesta compared with the 2012 model. So, yes, they both require the same timing-belt changes. And yes, the interval is determined by which comes first, the 160,000km or the eight years.

The recommended tyre pressures for that vehicle should be on a placard somewhere on the vehicle. Try inside the door jambs or the inside of the fuel-filler flap. However, that tyre size you’ve quoted suggests the vehicle could be on slightly wider wheels and tyres, at which point the placard’s recommendations go out the window somewhat.

So, using the rule of thumb for that size tyre on a vehicle like a Transporter, I’d start with 34 psi in the front tyres and 36 psi in the rear. For the metrically inclined, that’s 234 kPa in the front and 248 kPa in the rear. You could go up a few psi from there depending on the load you’re carrying, but that would be a pretty good starting point.

My friend, if I could find somebody to give me $5000 for a 2009 Captiva with a dodgy turbocharger, I’d be taking that deal in a heartbeat. The reality is that your car is worth about $5000 in decent working order, and nowhere near the $8000 you’ve calculated. That’s because you never really get back the money you spend in repairs; even if you spend $3000 on fixing a $5000 car, it will still only be worth about $5000. That’s the cruel reality of the used-car industry.

A cheaper, second-hand turbocharger is one way to go, but then you open yourself up to the risk of having bought, and paid to have installed, a turbo that is almost as worn out as the one that has failed on you. There’s no nice way to put this, but I’d be getting rid of that Captiva for the best price I could and not looking back.

The bad news, Andrea, is that your car is probably worth between $8000 and $11,000 and maybe even less as a trade-in. Certainly that figure will be less if you don’t fix the engine problem, so that’s your starting point for working out the mathematics of your situation.

The one thing you haven’t told me is whether the car is a V8 or a six-cylinder car. If it’s a V8, I reckon you’d be spot on the money with a lifter, rocker or valve-spring problem as these engines were notorious for these components wearing out in roughly the mileage you’ve noted (sometimes less). The good news is that it’s not a terribly involved or costly (relatively) fix.

If, however, the car is a V6, then you might be in a bit deeper. These engines were even more notorious for stretching their timing chains and that can lead to all sorts of engine noises as well as a check-engine light illuminating on the dashboard. This is a bigger, more expensive fix, too, and since a V6 Calais will be worth less in the first place, it might be better to simply replace the whole engine. There’s also the very strong possibility that the cost of repairs will simply not stack up against the value of the car.

All the cars you’ve nominated would be good choices and will give you some peace of mind because they all use conventional technology. That is to say, none of them in their most affordable, basic forms uses a turbocharger and none of them have a complex, dual-clutch transmission that has been so troublesome for Volkswagen and plenty of other manufacturers, too. At least, that’s if you stay clear of the Cerato GT and the i30 diesel and N-Line, because those variants do have a dual-clutch transmission. The Corolla? A CVT transmission, no matter what variant you buy, but it’s one of the better ones out there.

Yours is not the only voice calling out for a simpler, more reliable motoring experience, Ian. But any of the three makes and models you’ve named should do the job for you with minimal hassle. Neither of them offers up too much in the way of excitement, but as solid, dependable designs, they take some beating.

On the surface, it sounds like you have a hydraulic issue, either with the clutch’s master or slave cylinder. Bleeding the hydraulics for the clutch and removing any air from the system would be the first step in diagnosing this problem and may fix it. Often, though, a problem like this is a constant one, not one that crops up 30 minutes into a drive. Is the clutch pedal returning to its proper position after you’ve taken your foot off it? Is there any evidence of a leak around the clutch’s hydraulic plumbing?

Perhaps it’s the clutch itself - X-Trails are known to be a bit flimsy in this department - and a worn clutch could conceivably work fine when it’s cold and not so well when it’s hot. Perhaps it’s the throw-out bearing that’s jamming and needs greasing. Does the pedal go hard and require more pressure when the problem starts?

By the way, many owners remove the standard dual-mass flywheel and fit a more durable and reliable single-mass flywheel when they replace the clutch. It seems to be a more robust set-up than the stock Nissan system.