Ask The Guide

Transmission faults in this model and variant of the Captiva are common. Holden actually issued a service bulletin for affected cars to check and replace components including the torque converter, electro-hydraulic control components and speed sensors. Symptoms included a loss of drive, flaring or slipping between gears and gear selection problems. I’d say your problems fall within those boundaries. Have the vehicle scanned and if error code P0776 pops up, you have the same conditions that caused Holden to issue the service bulletin back in 2016. From there, talk to a Holden dealer as to what can be done about it.

Hot engine oil is a normal part of a car’s operation. If there’s a little smoke from the oil when you open the oil-cap on top of the engine, that’s actually reasonably normal, provided it’s only a few fumes and not huge clouds of smoke.

The car telling you to stop could be due to any number of faults or conditions within the car, so the wise thing to do is have it scanned at a Peugeot specialist who will be able to interpret the coded messages the car spits out. The turbocharger could be the component at fault here, but without an electronic scan, you’d only be guessing at the real cause.

The whistling sound could be coming from some weird combination of acoustics within the muffler as it rots from within and begins to change shape internally. But more likely, what you’re hearing is the sound of a dying turbocharger bearing. Generally, these should be almost silent, but as they wear, they get louder and louder. The turbocharger sits inside the exhaust system, which is why you can hear it through the tailpipe.

Left to its own devices the bearing will eventually collapse, taking the turbocharger impeller/turbine with it. The bigger danger is that some of the small fragments of metal from the bearing will be free to enter the intake side of the turbocharger where they will be travel through the engine causing all kinds of destruction. That’s possibly what will happen if you ignore it.

Believe it or not, Matthew, a check-engine light illuminated on the dashboard is actually a roadworthy item. Did you buy the car through a used-car dealer? If so, it would have come with a roadworthy certificate, but I fear the car yard has simply cancelled the engine-light warning without actually fixing the cause in order to get the RWC and sell you the car. And some time down the track, the car has detected the same fault and switched on the light again.

That said, a change of alternator can also sometimes throw up a fault code (which would illuminate the engine light) but a proper auto electrician should know how to either avoid this, or cancel the light if it did occur. There are many reasons for a check-engine light to appear including a problem with the car’s emission controls or various things to do with its electronic functions. However, the Captiva model you have was especially prone to a stretched timing chain in the engine. When the chain had stretched far enough, the on-board sensor that detects the camshaft position got so confused, it told the computer that something was wrong and the check-engine light would appear.

With the mileage your car has covered, I reckon that a stretched timing chain is a distinct possibility. That would also explain why the car feels like it’s not making enough power and why it runs roughly. Have the car scanned and if either codes P0008, P0009, P0016, P0017, P0018 or P0019 show up, then you do, indeed, have a stretched timing chain.

You’ll often find a bit of lash (movement) in the driveline of a car, and it’s hard to tell from where it’s originating. What feels like a bit of play in the universal joint can actually be lash in the differential. Ideally, there should be no discernible play in the joint itself.

If in doubt, have it checked out by a professional who will also look for signs of the universal joint deteriorating and give the whole driveline a once-over. It’s not a huge job, and shouldn’t cost too much, but it’s a vital piece of the driveline and a safety issue so don’t neglect it if you think there’s some wear starting to show.

The lifespan of a universal joint is usually directly related to how the vehicle gets used. If you go off-road and really stretch the driveline in terms of axle articulation, or you tow a big load or regularly launch a boat and dunk the rear of your vehicle into salt water, then the lifespan of components like universal joints will be drastically shortened.

I never cease to be amazed at the rubbish some car dealers resort to dipstick explain faults with their products. As far as I know, there is no allowable `tolerance’ for a brand-new aluminium tray to be out of whack. Nor should there be one; if a manufacturer can’t build a tray that is square and true in 2020, it really should be in another industry.

The other puzzling thing is that the tray on your car was re-set to 15mm out of whack and seems to be gradually returning to its original 35mm discrepancy. There are a few possible causes here. One would be that the tray itself is twisted and doesn’t sit square on the vehicle. The second is that the vehicle is somehow bent and won’t line up with the tray and its mounting points. Perhaps there’s a problem with the vehicle’s suspension that is sitting one side of the ute higher than the other. That could be a broken or faulty spring, a damaged shock absorber, a worn suspension bush or maybe a tyre that is a different size to the other three. But those are all pretty crazy suggestions in the context of a brand-new vehicle.

I actually contacted an aluminium-tray manufacturer to be told that in some cases, the vehicle’s cabin and chassis will not be aligned precisely from the factory. In that case, the tray would be fitted to visually line-up with the cabin so that the truck looks `right’ to the eye. Even then, this condition is very uncommon and, either way, 35mm is too far out to be considered anything like acceptable. The specialist I spoke with was confident that, in your case, Jason, the tray is simply incorrectly fitted and needs to be removed and fitted properly. Make it the dealer’s problem. One other thing is for sure, too; it’s not the location of the fuel tank that is causing this problem.

Further to that, Mazda Australia has weighed in and confirmed that there’s no tolerance involved but that the problem would be an easy fix at a Mazda dealership. Your best bet is to contact Mazda’s customer service hotline on 1800 034411.

Seems like you might have two problems here. The first is that I suspect you’ve may have fried the computer in the Holden in the process of jump-starting your other car. Jump-starting a modern car with on-board computers is something that should only be attempted by somebody who is a specialist. There’s a specific technique that goes beyond simply hooking up the jump-cables and hoping for the best. It’s all too easy to send a voltage spike through the car and send the computers into melt-down. That would explain why the car will not restart.

As for the milky oil and the sludge under the oil-filler capo, that sounds unrelated but still serious. A blown head gasket can lead to this exact set of symptoms and it occurs when the engine’s coolant is allowed to mix with the oil (and vice-versa). Sometimes in these colder months (particularly in Tassie) it’s not uncommon to get a small amount of frothy, grey muck under the oil-filler cap, but not a huge amount. And if the oil on the dispstick is also covered in oil contaminated with coolant, then you’re looking at a new head gasket at a minimum.

I’m not sure I agree that all modern Holdens were problematic, but the Epica, which was really a Daewoo (it was built in South Korea) with Holden badges, is definitely on the suspect-reliability list.

There are literally hundreds of things that could have caused the engine to suddenly stop. It could be anything from an electrical failure to a broken crankshaft to a seized torque-converter to an empty fuel tank. And practically anything in between. The dash lights illuminating when the engine stopped is actually quite normal, as the lights are trying to warn you that something’s wrong (in case you hadn’t noticed).

The fact that it won’t restart is no real clue, either, as you haven’t told me whether the engine turns over and won’t fire, or won’t turn over on the starter at all.

Any time you have a fuse blowing consistently, you have an electrical problem. Either the circuit involved in lighting the indicator letters and shifting the vehicle into Park (modern transmissions use electronic actuators extensively) is shorting out or being overloaded, and that’s causing the fuse to blow as an alternative to the wiring melting and setting fire to something.

If it’s a new vehicle, though, it’s covered under the factory warranty, so a trip to the dealership should put it right at no cost to you. It could be a pinched wire, a poor earth, or a fault in the electronic control system. Either way, it’s Isuzu’s problem.

This model Mazda BT-50 and its Ford Ranger counterpart (they’re the same vehicle under the skin) have had their share of automatic transmission problems over the years. There are known problems with the gears in the oil pump which are prone to wear, valve-body problems and a fault with the output shaft speed sensor which can also fail, forcing the gearbox back into first gear at relatively high speeds. All these problems could be contributing factors in the problems you’re seeing.

While EGR valves often need replacement (and I’m not disputing that yours did) I don’t imagine the EGR valve would have had anything to do with your gearbox problem. It’s not uncommon – nor unreasonable - for workshops to charge a diagnosis fee (it involves workshop time, after all) but servicing the transmission alone won’t fix it if it has any of the problems I’ve listed above.