Ask The Guide

US-based Bose is certainly working on a system that will cancel out noise in cars. At the moment, though, it’s not available and will probably only be fitted to brand-new cars as standard equipment. At first anyway, because tech like this has a habit of tricking down to the aftermarket. However, that’s not much help to you right now.

Wearing noise-cancelling headphones is not practical (or sensible, or legal) so you need to look at an old-school solution such as the tyres you mentioned or stripping the car’s interior and fitting a noise-suppressing matting under the carpet and inside the doors. If it’s any consolation, it’s not your imagination; Mazdas for the last 20 years have been harshly criticised for their interior noise levels when the competition seems to do it better.

Ironically, active noise cancellation technology as proposed by Bose is not to tame mechanically noisy cars, but to remove wind and road noise from electric cars which are otherwise so quiet, these secondary noises become a big nuisance.

Changing a clutch in any car is a big job and can easily cost the sort of money you’ve been quoted. And when that car is a front-wheel-drive vehicle, there are a lot of things to remove (like the driveshafts) before the gearbox can be removed and the new clutch fitted.

While I agree that the symptoms you’re reporting do sound like a worn out clutch, I’d like to know what else the mechanic thinks will be wrong. He or she may, for example, be budgeting for the removal and machining of the flywheel as part of the clutch replacement, That can easily add a couple of hundred to the bill. Also, where is the mechanic sourcing the new clutch? You may have found a replacement kit online for the $500 you’re quoting, but is it a quality part from a reputable brand or a no-name piece of rubbish from an internet clearing house?

Land Rovers of this era seem to have a few more reliability problems than other off-road vehicles from other makers. That said, they’re more complicated to start with, so that explains some of that phenomenon.

As you’ve correctly identified, Karen, a vehicle’s ability to keep on keeping on is down to far more factors than simply the age of the engine. These are big, heavy, complex machines and they suffer wear in many areas including the driveline, suspension, brakes and general body condition.

Parts for things like air suspension can be expensive, but it’s worth keeping in mind that no off-road four-wheel-drive is cheap to maintain. It comes down to how much you like the car and whether you can justify the on-costs. If you do decide to keep the old girl, finding a specialist Land Rover workshop can often save you money as these businesses specialise in the brand and know all the common problems and the servicing tricks to keep your spend down.

While the vehicle’s VIN will identify the make and model, it won’t necessarily spell out the trim level. That information is usually incorporated on to a build plate attached to the firewall or inner fender.

From June 2019, Hyundai changed the name of its entry-level `Go’ model to `Active’ so effectively, you’ve bought the base-model car anyway. If you have been sold anything other than an Active model, you’ve received a higher specification model, so I wouldn’t be complaining back at the dealership.

The six-speed automatic transmission in the Cruze built between 2011 and 2013 was, indeed, a bit suspect in some cases. Unfortunately, that puts the vehicle in question right in the middle of things. Holden instigated a fix which was applied when a car with gearbox dramas was brought in for repairs. Sometimes individual parts of the transmission could be replaced, at other times the transmission was replaced as a whole unit.

Any Cruze with a gearbox that flares during shifts, shudders, refuses to select a particular gear (including reverse) or loss of drive was covered by this special service directive. When fixed, Holden was extending the warranty of the transmission to five years or 150,000km. That won’t help you now, but it would pay to check whether the car you’re looking at has, in fact, had this work carried out. A car with these repairs carried out would be a better choice than one that hasn’t.

My initial thought is that 11 or 12 litres per 100km for an overall average is about what I would have expected. These are not small cars, they’re not light and they have fairly ordinary aerodynamics.

What you need to keep in mind is that the official fuel consumption figure is a number achieved on a very specific test cycle that in no way approximates a real-world experience. Car makers go to great lengths to nail a good number on these tests (for marketing purposes) often at the expense of real-world fuel economy. Yes, it does seem crazy, doesn’t it?

You also mentioned you use your car mostly for high-speed driving. What’s your definition of high speed? Thanks to the aerodynamics of vehicles like the MU-X an extra 10km/h at freeway speeds can have a huge effect on economy. Even removing a roof-rack when you’re not using it can save a litre per 100km.

A car with a little extra ground clearance is great for camping as it often allows you to get a little farther away from the masses in their caravans who tend to huddle around the shower block at bush campsites.

The Subaru Outback is a good, solid choice and if you can find an independent workshop to service it, you’ll avoid the cost of dealership prices. And you’re right, the all-wheel-drive would be great for gravel roads. Another vehicle to look at would be a late-model Ford territory diesel which is big and clever inside and has the option of all-wheel-drive. The diesel engine is a plus on the bush where that fuel is more readily available (in really remote areas) and gives you more range for big holidays in the mulga.

Don’t rule out things like the Mitsubishi Pajero, either, which won’t be as around-town friendly, but is a proven quantity and is absolutely tremendous off-road. The same goes for a Toyota Prado or Nissan Pathfinder prior to the current model (which is a bit less hard-core adventure).

You raise an interesting point, Phil. A lot of people don’t understand that as you approach the towing limit of some vehicles, you also get very close to the legal Gross Combination Mass (GCM) which means you have virtually no payload left.

As for the torque of the 6.2-litre V8 engine, while it may not have quite the low-speed punch of a modern turbo-diesel, with 624Nm of torque, the engine is no lightweight, either. Frankly, it should do the job about as well as anything else out there. I’m not aware of a factory retune for the Silverado, but the engine is shared with plenty of GM and Holden product and there’s a whole industry in hotting those up. Surely somebody can offer you the tune-up you’re looking for. By the way, success on a boat ramp tends to be more about grip than torque.

Your electrician has done the right things so far, Ken, starting with making sure that the battery is charged and being charged by the alternator and that the car is earthed (grounded) properly. Those are traditionally major causes of this type of problem, but unfortunately there are many more possibilities in a modern car with its electronics. My first thought is that the functions you’re having trouble with are all controlled by the car’s body computer. So I think that’s where your electrician should start looking next. These computers can develop software and hardware faults that allow for these random and intermittent problems. So maybe borrowing a body computer from the same make and model and seeing if that fixes your problems (and at least ruling out the computer) is a cost-effective way forward.

I’d also be having a chat to the workshop that replaced the steering rack to see if there’s any way that a connection or sensor related to the on-board computer could have been bumped or damaged during the rack-replacement process. It would certainly be a coincidence (and it’s possible that this is exactly what this is) if these problems started straight after the repairs, no?

Surprisingly, your car would probably run on E85, but it wouldn’t run properly. E85 is 85 per cent ethanol (and 15 per cent petrol) which has a lower energy content than straight petrol. As a result, a car running on E85 will need to use up to 30 per cent more fuel by volume to work properly. As your car is not tuned for this, it would probably run but would be down on power and may not idle or accelerate smoothly.

The bigger issue is that the high ethanol content fuel can be corrosive to fuel system parts (pumps and lines) not designed for it. While many Subaru models are, in fact, compatible with and suitable for E10 fuel (10 per cent ethanol and 90 per cent petrol) E10 has an octane rating of 94 while your car requires a minimum of 95-octane fuel. So even E10 would be a no-no.

With all that in mind, I think the best advice would be to drain the tank of the E85 as soon as possible. Refill it with 98-octane petrol and go for a drive to purge any residual E85 form the lines. Your workshop may even suggest a new fuel filter. If they don’t, ask about it yourself. The good news is that it’s very unlikely you’ve done any damage beyond the dent you’ve just put in your wallet.