Ask The Guide

It’s nice to see somebody taking the long view when it comes to vehicle ownership. Cars have become an increasingly throw-away commodity, and it seems a shame that all that engineering and development doesn’t get a longer lifespan.

The BT-50 and Ranger you’ve nominated are, fundamentally, the same vehicles under the skin, so the choice will come down to the options fitted and the trim level that combines the features you want in one package. As a rule of thumb, the five-cylinder engine option will do a better job of hauling a slide-on camper into a headwind and will always be worth more as a trade-in (although that’s clearly not a concern for you).

If you’re planning to keep the vehicle up to 300,000km, there’s a very good chance you’ll need to spend some money on the vehicle’s direct injection system at some point. A set of injectors and filters as well as an injector pump are all likely to need replacement over the distance you’ve nominated. That said, all modern common rail diesels seem to be in the same boat here, but if you’re prepared to service the vehicle religiously, then those expenses should be kept to a minimum. Take it as read, though, that a modern turbo-diesel will not appreciate neglect in this area.

The other thing to watch out for is a vehicle that has already had a hard working life, as these dual-cabs often have. The tray-back you want also means the vehicle is likely to have been a work truck rather than a lifestyle accessory, so have any prospect checked independently before handing over the money.

Toyota’s approach to this matter is interesting. When it comes to the hybrid versions of the new Corolla, the SX variant gets a space-saver spare while the ZR hybrid gets a repair kit. But some of the other petrol-only and entry-level models get a space-saver and a repair kit.

The repair kit will work provided you’re familiar with how to use it and the leak in the tyre isn’t a huge, gaping gash in the sidewall. If that’s the case, you’re snookered. But if it’s just a nail you’ve run over that’s causing the leak, the repair kit will work. Even so, your next destination should be a tyre shop to have the puncture repaired properly.

Space-saver spares are another matter. While they’ll get you going again after a flat tyre, they can make a vehicle very unstable to drive at any speed and over any distance. That’s why they have an 80km-at-80km/h limit applied to them. But as an alternative to walking home, they’re better than nothing. But since some Corollas come with both a space-saver spare and a repair kit, why not lean on the salesperson when doing the deal and asking them to include one of each? Make it a condition of the sale and I bet you’ll get what you want.

The other thing to think about is what you’re likely to do if you get a flat tyre. Are you the sort of person who’s going to change a flat tyre themselves and continue on, or are you the urban-dwelling, roadside-assistance type who will call for back-up? If you’re the latter – and there’s no shame in that - then none of this stuff matters in the first place.

Refuelling is actually a pretty dangerous practise, even though it’s one that most of us do on a weekly basis. So the first thing to know is that you need to stick to all the safety requirements issued by both the car-maker and the service station you’re using, including not using mobile phones while you refuel and making sure that even a few drops of spilled fuel is washed off the car and diluted with water on the ground.

Beyond that, the Mazda 323 should have a fuel-flap release lever on the floor, down beside the front-right hand corner of the driver’s seat. If the seat is positioned for a shorter driver, you may need to slide the seat back to reveal the release lever. Then, once the lever has been pulled upwards to release the external flap, you should be able to turn the actual fuel cap anti-clockwise to remove it. But take it slowly and don’t be surprised if there’s a hissing noise as some air is sucked into the tank as you break the cap’s seal. Once you’ve refuelled, replace the cap and turn it clockwise until it clicks once and spins freely, close the fuel-flap and you’re all done. It’s also a nice idea now to zero your trip-meter so you can calculate your fuel consumption next time you fuel up (not all cars back in 2001 had trip computers).

In WA, it’s okay for you to fit your own child restraint to a vehicle. The catch is that the legislation requires the child to be caried in “a correctly installed restraint” so you need to instal it absolutely by the book. I contacted the relevant authorities in WA who told me that the biggest problem they see with this is that some people try to mount the restraint on a luggage hook or some other non-approved mounting point for a restraint. But if you follow the instructions that come with the restraint in combination with the car’s owner’s manual, most people manage.

That said, it’s not something to gamble with, so if you have any doubts about this, there’s a list of fitting stations across WA that are set up to guide you through the process in person. You’ll find the list of fitting stations and a lot of other information at https://www.transport.wa.gov.au/licensing/seats-and-seat-belts.asp

The turbocharged petrol-engined Cruze was the pick of the bunch; smoother and sweeter than the turbo-diesel and packing a lot more punch than the non-turbo petrol version. But they’re not without their potential traps.

The good news is that the car you’re considering is a 2015 model, so it got the bigger 1.6-litre turbocharged engine and a build date that should have put it beyond the earlier transmission failures of some Cruzes. The earlier, 1.4-litre engine was known for coolant leaks from the water pump, although the later 1.6-litre also seems susceptible to overheating. Some Cruzes with this engine required new thermostat housings to be fitted to correct this, so make sure this has been done by a previous owner.

The 1.6 turbo also showed problems with the cooling system for the turbocharger unit (as distinct from the above cooling problems). It seems as though the coolant hoses for the turbocharger were underdone when it came to Australian underbonnet heat levels, and a leak could ensue.

To be completely honest, these cars were a Daewoo design (even though they were built by Holden in Adelaide after 2011) and they seemed a bit short on engineering in some areas. They’re also a car that will become more problematic – relative to some of the competition - as they age. It wouldn’t be my pick for a long-term purchase.
 

Boy, the world is your oyster, Elizabeth. There are literally dozens of options when it comes to a compact SUV. If you’re otherwise happy with the Hyundai, then maybe look at the Hyundai Kona. It’s available as a turbo all-wheel-drive or as a non-turbo front-drive car (not to mention the Kona Electric, an all-electric version) and will come with Hyundai’s great factory warranty and reliability that you’ve already experienced with the Tucson. The other option would the equivalent from Hyundai’s sister company, Kia. The Kia Sportage an also be had as a turbo-diesel, although for normal suburban driving, a petrol is probably your best bet.

Then, you have all the various offerings from the Japanese makers as well as left-field entrants from MG, Fiat, Mini and more. But you need to be careful, because there isn’t always a whole lot of difference between the width of a compact SUV and a mid-sizer. Sure, there’s generally more space inside the bigger car, but it’s often the result of extra length and height rather than width. For instance, your Tucson (assuming it’s the current model) has a width of 1850mm while the Kona is just 50mm (about two inches) narrower. That may not be enough of a difference and you may need to go down two sizes to, say, a Hyundai Venue which is smaller and narrower again with a width of 1770mm.

The ZD30 will probably not be remembered as one of Nissan’s greatest engines. In good condition and running properly, they’re not a bad unit, but they have managed to develop a reputation for – as you’ve identified – giving problems long before they should.

Any off-roader’s engine is liable to overheat, especially when you’re working it hard in the bush with minimal air-flow through the radiator. Many Patrol owners have identified this and fitted larger, aftermarket radiators to fix the issue. A bigger worry is the engine’s propensity to explode – usually – number three of four piston with catastrophic results.

The trade has a few theories including a build-up of oil and soot (which forms black gunk) that partially blocks the inlet tract that causes uneven mixtures across all four cylinders. At that point, you could have hot-spots occurring that can potentially melt pistons. Another theory holds that the same black gunk was messing with the engine’s sensors and allowing them to send false information back to the computer, again leading to incorrect air-fuel mixtures.

Boost spikes were another problem, apparently caused by the engine’s slow response to commands from the computer. In extreme cases, turbo-boost could increase violently and damage pistons. Even then, it wasn’t that simple, because Nissan itself seems to have misunderstood the engine, originally specifying an oil capacity of too little, leading to oil starvation and engine damage. The company quickly added a couple of litres to the specification (for a total of 8.3 litres) and instructed its dealers to shorten and recalibrate dipsticks when the cars came in for servicing.

For all that, the ZD30 has gathered its admirers who value its performance and reduced fuel consumption over some other turbo-diesel Patrol engines. For our money though, if you can afford it, the bigger, less stressed TD42 turbo-diesel is the pick of the Patrol engines from this era. The catch there is that the TD42 was only available with a five-speed manual while the ZD30 could be had with an optional four-speed automatic.

I’ll take a stab in the dark here and suggest that your van is a turbo-diesel (there was a petrol version offered as well, but the diesel was much more popular). If that’s the case, you could be dealing with a turbocharger that’s showing wear. Specifically, this is likely to be in the turbo’s bearing which will become noisy (and potentially emit a whistling noise) as the bearing starts to degrade. Turbochargers often spin at speeds of up to 250,000rpm, so the bearing really has its work cut out.

The clue to all this is that the vehicle starts whistling when you press the throttle; that is, when you place a load on the engine and ask the turbocharger to start providing boost. That’s when the worn bearing becomes loaded (and noisy). But you could also be looking at something much simpler such as an exhaust that has collapsed internally and is offering a whistling soundtrack, or even a loose piece of intake plumbing that is also allowing the air passing over it to whistle. Perhaps there’s something in the gearbox that is making a high-pitched noise as well. You really need to have the vehicle looked at by somebody who knows their HiAces and take it from there.
 

Let’s start with the basics here, Bryan, before lashing out on mechanics. Are the tyre pressures where they should be? A tyre can be pretty under-inflated before that’s actually obvious to the eye, but a tyre with an incorrect pressure can be harder to turn. Next, what about the wheel alignment settings? Has the car bounced off a kerb lately? Has there been any incident that could have wrenched the front end out of alignment? When was the last time the wheel alignment was checked?

For all of that, however, I’m tempted to suspect that there’s something wrong with the valving in the power-steering rack. I’d be having the rack checked for any foreign matter inside that could be blocking the valves or in some other way preventing the rack from guiding the wheels smoothly in both directions. A dodgy steering system is an obvious safety issue, so don’t mess about having it checked.

The problem you refer to affected the very first Jazz models sold here up to 2008. Any car made after that date should not exhibit the same problem as Honda made running changes to fix it back in the day.

The problem was actually traced back to the wrong transmission fluid being used in the CVT unit. These modern transmission are very particular about what fluid they use, especially with regard to the complex brew of additives that make up the fluid.

Over time, the fluid in the affected Jazzes would start to break down as the additives became depleted, at which point, it wasn’t doing the complete job necessary. Specifically, the depleted additive package suddenly allowed the starter-motor clutch to remain engaged. Essentially, you had the transmission trying to drive the car and the starter clutch dragging at it, effectively trying to slow it down. Which is when the car would start to shudder.

The solution was to switch to a new, reformulated transmission fluid which was added to the drained CVT, the car driven for a certain distance, the new fluid dumped and refilled and then the ECU reset to recalibrate the transmission. Problem sorted.