Are you having problems with your 2010 Volkswagen Golf? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest 2010 Volkswagen Golf issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the 2010 Volkswagen Golf in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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It’s clearly frustrating, but it’s a long way from being a “lemon”. VW found and fixed the problem with the brakes, so that’s done and dusted. The warning light issue is another issue and one that VW needs to fix. I would be firm towards the dealer and tell them to keep the car until they can guarantee the problem has been fixed. Leave it with them, don’t simply drive away in it and hope they have fixed it. Ask questions until you are satisfied they have found the fault and fixed it.
Under the Australian Consumer Law introduced in January 2011, a consumer can request a refund or a replacement for persistent problems if the car doesn’t do the job it’s supposed to do.
Lodging your complaints with the dealer and with VW is the logical starting point. While you are driving the car keep a comprehensive log of any incident that happens, recording date, place, time, what happened, odometer reading etc. That way you would have something to discuss with the dealer and the carmaker when trying to negotiate a way out of the car. VW has a responsibility under its statutory warranty laws to sell you a car that is fit for purpose, and your car might not be. It would be worth consulting an expert in consumer law.
I would be very cautious with any Golf right now, VW has owned up to problems with the 118TSi engine that result in blown pistons due to pre-ignition. While I’m guessing your car doesn’t have a 118TSi I wouldn’t be experimenting with lower grades of fuel in any VW engine until the full extent of the issue is known. Use a 98 octane fuel.
When your car is doing a real 110 km/h the speedo could read up to 125 km/h and be legal, but the odometer must be within two percent of the real distance travelled. On that basis when your odometer shows 100,000 the real distance could be as low as 98,040 real kilometres, but then, does the company warrant the vehicle for 100,00 'real' kilometres or 100,000 'indicated' kilometres? Perhaps you should go back and read your warranty document and find out.
It's not possible to explain without seeing the invoices, but I would guess that VW dealer is charging more for the parts and is almost certainly charging more for the labour. I have seen dealers, not necessarily VW dealers, charging $140 and more per hour for labour. It's outrageous and should encourage owners to take their business elsewhere.
WE DON'T have ``lemon'' laws in this country, so there's no real definition of what makes a ``lemon''. Generally, if a car is returned to a dealer three or more times with the same problem it can be called a ``lemon''. Because we don't have any such law here you have to battle the dealer and the carmaker, and if that fails, take legal action. Though we don't have ``lemon'' laws, there are laws that protect consumers when a product is clearly unfit for the purpose for which it is sold.
Under the Australian Consumer Law introduced in January 2011, a consumer can request a refund or a replacement for persistent problems if the car doesn’t do the job it’s supposed to do.
Both will give you good fuel savings in the sort of driving you're doing. The hybrid would likely be better in stop-start driving, the diesel better for open-road motoring. The diesel would be cheaper to buy and have a better resale value in the medium term. People are still sceptical about the life of the batteries in the hybrid -- though there is no evidence to suggest they are a problem -- but it has a negative effect on used values. You would also be tied to a Toyota dealer for servicing. The broader trade has yet to develop the expertise to look after the complex electrics of the hybrid.