Holden Problems

Short of an utter mechanical failure such as a broken driveshaft or snapped gearbox input shaft, I’d say your automatic transmission is at fault. If you can feel the gears being selected (which you say you can) that’s a good start, but if there’s no movement form the car when you apply the throttle, then you could be dealing with anything from a broken gearbox or differential to a simple case of low transmission-fluid level.

Check the owner’s manual for the correct procedure for checking the fluid level and give it a try. If the level’s low, drive can certainly be affected and a top-up might put things right. Beyond that, you need to let a mechanic look at the car.

These cars used a fairly simply check-valve on the fuel pump to prevent fuel draining back into the tank when the car was parked. As the car ages, this valve wears to the point where it won’t maintain fuel in the lines going to the engine. If that happens, it will take some time and cranking to get fuel from the tank to the engine. This is the delay you’re experiencing.

The worn valve is only allowing a small amount of fuel to drain back which is why you need to wait six hours or so for the problem to show up. A new fuel pump will fix it.

Seems like you might have two problems here. The first is that I suspect you’ve may have fried the computer in the Holden in the process of jump-starting your other car. Jump-starting a modern car with on-board computers is something that should only be attempted by somebody who is a specialist. There’s a specific technique that goes beyond simply hooking up the jump-cables and hoping for the best. It’s all too easy to send a voltage spike through the car and send the computers into melt-down. That would explain why the car will not restart.

As for the milky oil and the sludge under the oil-filler capo, that sounds unrelated but still serious. A blown head gasket can lead to this exact set of symptoms and it occurs when the engine’s coolant is allowed to mix with the oil (and vice-versa). Sometimes in these colder months (particularly in Tassie) it’s not uncommon to get a small amount of frothy, grey muck under the oil-filler cap, but not a huge amount. And if the oil on the dispstick is also covered in oil contaminated with coolant, then you’re looking at a new head gasket at a minimum.

I’m not sure I agree that all modern Holdens were problematic, but the Epica, which was really a Daewoo (it was built in South Korea) with Holden badges, is definitely on the suspect-reliability list.

Transmission faults in this model and variant of the Captiva are common. Holden actually issued a service bulletin for affected cars to check and replace components including the torque converter, electro-hydraulic control components and speed sensors. Symptoms included a loss of drive, flaring or slipping between gears and gear selection problems. I’d say your problems fall within those boundaries. Have the vehicle scanned and if error code P0776 pops up, you have the same conditions that caused Holden to issue the service bulletin back in 2016. From there, talk to a Holden dealer as to what can be done about it.

Noises and vibrations are sometimes very hard to diagnose, particularly by remote control. A metallic noise from underneath the car is often a heat shield rattling against another component and this will can vary according to the load the engine is under at the time. Another common source of rattles is a collapsed catalytic-converter in the exhaust system which can sound like a tin can full or nuts and bolts when you rev the engine or place it under load.

Also, you might find that the vibration and the noise you’re feeling and hearing are from the same source. But you really need to have the car inspected to find out the source of the white noise.

The six-speed automatic in your car has experienced a lot of serious problems, Linda. Various components have been blamed, but the symptoms include failure to select Reverse which sounds like the problem you’re having. Other symptoms include flaring between gears, loss of drive, inability to select forward gears and a warning light showing up on the dashboard.

You might be lucky and simply need a top up of transmission fluid, but going by the history of this gearbox, you need to have the car electronically scanned to know what’s really going on.

It sounds like you’ve had a rough trot with your Captiva, Danielle. Let me ask you this: When did the problems first occur and were discussed with the dealer? If you’ve been putting up with this stuff over a period of years, there’s a chance these dramas first cropped up while the vehicle was under warranty. If that’s the case, you’re dealing with what’s called a pre-existing condition and, if the dealer was made aware of the situation before the warranty had expired, then Holden is still duty-bound to fix the faults even if the car itself is now out of warranty. I’m asking because you said the problems go back at least as far as one month out from the warranty expiring, which is when you had new fuel-injectors fitted.

Starter-motor problems are not unknown with the Captiva and DPF problems are likewise a well-documented source of grief with these cars. Sometimes, the only fix for the DPF is a full replacement but that’s not cheap. Not to mention the new filter will possibly become blocked sometime down the track. The only way to keep a modern turbo-diesel happy is to drive it for about half an hour at freeway speeds every three or four weeks. That will regenerate the DPF and help prevent these problems. Then again, in the case of a Holden Captiva, I wouldn’t be too certain of that.

Believe it or not, Matthew, a check-engine light illuminated on the dashboard is actually a roadworthy item. Did you buy the car through a used-car dealer? If so, it would have come with a roadworthy certificate, but I fear the car yard has simply cancelled the engine-light warning without actually fixing the cause in order to get the RWC and sell you the car. And some time down the track, the car has detected the same fault and switched on the light again.

That said, a change of alternator can also sometimes throw up a fault code (which would illuminate the engine light) but a proper auto electrician should know how to either avoid this, or cancel the light if it did occur. There are many reasons for a check-engine light to appear including a problem with the car’s emission controls or various things to do with its electronic functions. However, the Captiva model you have was especially prone to a stretched timing chain in the engine. When the chain had stretched far enough, the on-board sensor that detects the camshaft position got so confused, it told the computer that something was wrong and the check-engine light would appear.

With the mileage your car has covered, I reckon that a stretched timing chain is a distinct possibility. That would also explain why the car feels like it’s not making enough power and why it runs roughly. Have the car scanned and if either codes P0008, P0009, P0016, P0017, P0018 or P0019 show up, then you do, indeed, have a stretched timing chain.

The symptoms you have certainly suggest an engine with far too much blow-by (combustion pressure escaping past the piston rings and into the crankcase). Sometimes, the same symptoms can be caused by a crankcase ventilation system that isn’t working properly, but it’s often blow-by that’s the cause. That’s usually the result of internal engine wear which, at 290,000km and counting, is hardly out of the question.

Basically, the observations you’ve made regarding crankcase fumes are about as far as you can go without actually performing a compression and cylinder leak-down test. The good news is that these tests aren’t overly complicated and don’t take long, but they will give you a vastly more accurate idea of what’s going on inside the engine. Oil in the intercooler can also be a sign of this sort of wear, but, as you’ve been told, can also be the fault of blown turbocharger seals. Either way, it sounds like your engine is due for a freshen up in the name of reliability and clean running.

The standard differential on this vehicle was a non-LSD (non-limited-slip) unit with a final-drive ratio of 3.08:1. Some owners changed the gears in the diff for more acceleration, although this was more commonly done in V8 models where owners were chasing performance at the expense of a little fuel economy.

If you’re in doubt, you can put the car on a hoist, mark a spot on the driveshaft and then turn the rear wheel a full revolution. By counting the number of times the driveshaft rotates during that process, you’ll know the ratio. In this case, one full rotation of the rear wheel should equal 3.08 rotations of the driveshaft.