Ford has maintained a high-profile presence in the global automotive business since the early years of the 20th century, with an Australian subsidiary established in 1925. Initially assembling Model Ts, then Model As, and later a range of British models, Ford Australia produced cars and engines in earnest at two main plants in Victoria from the early 1960s, until local production ceased in 2016. Operating as a pure importer, the ‘Blue Oval’ now focuses mainly on its top-selling Ranger ute, Everest large SUV and Mustang muscle car. Fun fact: Ford Australia has sponsored the Geelong 'Cats' Australian Football League team since 1925, which is claimed to be the longest running sporting sponsorship in the world.
The problem could be to do with the ignition barrel, or it could be a hundred other things including a poor earth somewhere on the car. But my experience with Fords of this vintage suggests the first place I’d look would be what’s called the inhibitor switch.
This is a small switch that tells the car whether the transmission is in Park or Neutral before allowing the engine to turn over or start. If this switch isn’t relaying that information, the engine won’t so much as budge. And the fault is often intermittent.
So, try this. Instead of trying to start the car in Park, move the selector to Neutral and hit the key again. Often the inhibitor switch that isn’t recognising Park will still detect Neutral and you’ll be on your way.
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Since you’ve replaced the turbocharger and the boost controller, we can rule those out. But could the problem be something much simpler?
It’s possible that the plastic trunking that takes the compressed air from the turbocharger to the engine’s intake has split. When that happens, boost pressure is lost, the boost sensor detects the low boost and winds up the turbocharger to compensate and you have an on-paper overboost situation.
Then, once you’re beyond idle, the leak becomes even worse and the computer simply runs out of turbocharger capacity, at which point boost drops away. That’s preventing the engine revving properly and since there’s no sensor to tell the computer that the trunking is split and leaking, there might not be a fault code issued. Lots of black smoke from the exhaust is often (but not always) another clue that this is what’s happening.
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It all depends on how you define long and bulky. But no seven-seater is going to be exactly small, is it? That’s because, to accommodate the third row of seats necessary to seat seven a vehicle physically has to be a certain length and there’s just no getting around that.
But I take your point; a lot of the seven-seat SUVs out there do seem pretty big. Again, however, that’s not a bad thing if you plan to fill all three rows of seats and still have some room left for luggage. The smaller seven-seaters aren’t all that good at this as the third row gobbles up the luggage space, making these cars best for those who only need seven seats on an occasional basis. If that’s your situation there are lots of mid-sized seven seaters around, but they’re pretty much all SUVs.
And while it goes against your preference for a smaller vehicle, the very best seven-seaters aren’t SUVs. They’re usually people-mover vans such as the Ford Tourneo, Kia Carnival and VW ID. Buzz. In fact, some of these even seat eight. They’re also a lot better for accessing the rearmost row of seats and they’ll still have lots of luggage space even with all seats occupied. And, yes, they look big, but that’s physics for you.
In the meantime, you could look at slightly less bulky options including the Hyundai Santa Fe, Kia Sorento, Mazda CX-80 and Toyota Kluger. There’s also been speculation recently that Subaru’s seven-seat Tribeca might make a return to the Australian market.
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