Mazda Problems

Some Mazda 3s built between 2007 and 2008 did, indeed, suffer from a loss of power-steering assistance and were fixed by Mazda as part of a nationwide program. Mazda pulled up short of recalling these vehicles, arguing that even if assistance was lost, the car would still have its steering.

In any case, your car was built after this troublesome batch of cars, but I’ve still heard of a few, later, Mazda 3s suffering the same problem. One suggestion I’ve heard is that the power-steering fluid becomes thick and can’t flow properly. From what I can gather, the only real fix is to replace the power-steering pump, hoses and fluid. That won’t be cheap, but suddenly having the steering lose assistance can’t be much fun. Or very safe.

Like you, Monty, I’ve also heard of power-steering problems caused by electrical faults (sometimes as simple as a lose battery terminal) but I think those apply to later cars with electric power-assistance. Electrically-assisted power-steering didn’t come to the Mazda 3 in Australia until 2014.

Designed to fill the gap between the Mazda CX-3 and CX-5, the CX-30 is closer to the smaller CX-3 in terms of interior space. So make sure it’s big enough for a pair of growing kids before committing.

The big problem as far as your preferences and the Evolve model go is that it’s not available in all-wheel-drive. I agree with you that AWD is definitely preferable in a car that will be used by younger drivers. So while the G25 Touring (the cheapest AWD model with the bigger engine) costs a cool $7000 more than the FWD Evolve, you are getting that bigger engine as well as a fair bit of equipment, not to mention the AWD platform.

The other option I’d be looking at for young drivers is Mazda’s Vision Technology package which (for an extra $1300 on the AWD Touring model) adds semi-autonomous cruise-control, front cross-traffic warning, 360-degree monitoring and driver-fatigue monitoring.

This is a classic case of the dealer quoting you the factory price for the factory part. Which means the part will be brand-new and identical to the one that’s broken. The problem with parts like these is that they don’t tend to break very often, so there are no cheaper brands of replacement parts available.

The first thing to do would be to try an independent workshop, maybe even a Mazda specialist, who is very likely to be able to carry out this job for considerably less money (and I agree; $2000-plus to replace a manual seat base in a five-year-old car is getting up there).

Your second option is to do what older-car owners having been doing for decades and hit the wrecking yards. You’re looking for a crashed CX-9 which an undamaged seat base. Which, if it’s the same model and trim level, should bolt right in with few hassles. Make sure the replacement base you’ve found hasn’t been bent, twisted or otherwise damaged in the crash that led the car to the wrecking yard in the first place. But all things being equal, it would be a simple job for a competent mechanic and could save you many hundreds of dollars.

To be honest, like you, I’m a bit surprised at the quoted price for a new seat base, given that the adjuster is a manual one and not electrically-powered, which should mean it’s a pretty simple device.

Transmission Control Module (TCM) faults are not unknown on these early Mazda 3s. Symptoms usually involve erratic shifting, a failure to select gear at all and having the car go into limp-home mode. The good news is that there are companies out there who can repair your existing TCM, which gets you around the need to buy an expensive replacement. By the way, from what I can gather, any replacement TCM should be plug-and-play with no need to have the new module coded to the car’s other systems.

It’s also worth noting that Mazda in the USA issued a Technical Service Bulletin (like a recall but not for a safety issue) for automatic 3s from this era fitted with the 2.3-litre engine. In some cases, the shift solenoid could lose fluid, leading to harsh shifts and shuddering when driving uphill. The fix was a revised solenoid design but the catch was that the unit lived inside the transmission, so to whole gearbox had to be removed and taken apart to replace the part in question.

I’ve hard of this before and it usually seems the cause has something to do with the wiring that controls these warning lights. It could either be a bad earth or a broken wire, but in most cases the symptoms are the same; a flashing 4WD indicator light when the vehicle is in two-wheel-drive. I’ve also heard of dud ABS sensors triggering the same, or similar, warning lights on the dashboard.

These vehicles use servos to engage four-wheel-drive (unlike older vehicles which used a manual lever pulled on by the driver) so there’s a level of electronics involved. And that always means potential problems as the cars age, particularly a vehicle that may have seen its share of rough stuff over the years.

The best advice is to have a Mazda specialist interrogate the on-board computer, at which point the car should give up all its dirty little secrets, including why it thinks it’s in four-wheel-drive when it’s not.

 Okay, Eric, here’s the rundown on your Mazda: The engine displaced 1272cc and made 44kW of power when it was new. It’s a single-overhead camshaft engine with a bore and stroke of 73mm and 76mm respectively. The 1300 two-door was 3855mm long, 1540mm wide and had a wheelbase of 2260mm. It weighed a claimed 800kg and would cover the standing 400m (the traditional benchmark for acceleration) in a claimed 18.1 seconds.

The RAV4 in its current guise is the best the model has ever been. Of course, that’s exactly how it should be, but some car-makers don’t always crack the newer-is-better code. You’re right about the new RAV4 Hybrid being the headline grabber, but that’s because it’s the big change in the RAV4 formula and the one that is likely to attract the most new customers to the franchise. There’s nothing wrong with the two-litre CVT RAV4 per se, but you might find the performance of the smaller petrol engine a bit on the weedy side, especially with a full load of bodies and luggage on board. And, as with any CVT car, the advice is to drive it before you decide, and make sure you don’t find the CVT’s behaviour too foreign. Some people do, others never notice it.

The Kia Sportage Sport is another good package but suffers the same lacklustre engine performance issue in two-litre petrol form. It does, though, have a conventional six-speed automatic transmission rather than a CVT. And while the Sportage was facelifted in 2018, its basic design goes back to 2015. Which, in fact, makes it an older design than the Mazda CX-5 which was first launched here in 2017. Any of the three vehicles you’ve nominated will do the job but history suggests the Toyota will hold more resale value when trade-in time rolls around. And congratulations on the new addition to the family.

It would be a brave person to make any sort of predictions based on the Coronavirus. Suffice to say that as consumer confidence falls (and it must be at some kind of 100-year low right now) people tend to keep their powder dry and their cash to themselves. On that basis, I’d imagine you’d be welcomed with open arms (figuratively) at any sort of new-car dealership right now.

Whether that will make too much difference on the price of a new vehicle is up to the dealership in question, but if you can afford it, now is probably a very good time to shop for a brand-new car. Assuming lock-down laws allow you to drive it anyway. And don’t presume that the end of the crisis will see the end of cheaper cars; the damage being done to the economy will takes years or even decades to undo.

Mazda recommends fully synthetic for its SkyActiv engines and 5W30 is one viscosity that is listed for this engine. It’s also worth noting that the Mazda engine requires oil that conforms to API (American Petroleum Institute) SL, SM or SN. Although these gradings have an American tag, they’re pretty universal in the industry and denote an oil that is up to a certain minimum standard of protection required by car-makers (Mazda included).

But before I bought any oil, I’d contact the workshop or dealership that did the most recent oil change or service and ask what brand and grade of oil was used. That way, you’re not mixing oils. Different oils have different additives, and mixing them can sometimes cancel out the benefits of these additives.

There may be those reading this who will question whether a new car like a 2019 Mazda should be needing top-up oil between oil changes. But it’s a fact of life that even modern, high-tech engines do consume a little oil between services. Modern all-alloy engines are possibly even a little oil-thirstier than their old-school, cast-iron predecessors. A smart car owner still makes a habit of dipping the engine oil every Saturday morning.

I’d also recommend using a quality, brand-name oil rather than the cheaper, supermarket-branded stuff. Oils ain't oils? Definitely not.