Holden Problems

I’d love to know what a “certain distance” is. That would give me a much better chance of offering a sensible answer. If we’re talking 100km before the car loses drive, I’d be thinking that it’s something electrical perhaps or something to do with the on-board computer.

But if the loss of drive happens within the first 10 kilometres or so of each drive, then I’d be suspecting the transmission itself. Have you checked the level of the transmission fluid? Too much or not enough fluid in the gearbox can cause it to run hot enough to lose drive. Perhaps it’s the transmission cooler not behaving properly and maintaining things at the correct temperature.

Automatic gearboxes hate high temperatures and if you continue to drive it like this, there’s a good chance you’ll cook something.

You could argue the semantics of what is and isn’t a major failure till the cows come home and still not get any joy. But while I’d still be talking to the dealership, I’d also contact Holden’s Customer Service department and explain the situation to see if it will overrule the dealership’s call on this. The number to call is 1800 46 465 336.

Meantime, if the car is fixed and working properly, what’s the problem? You could get a brand-new car and have exactly the same thing happen, so where do you draw the line on what’s acceptable and what’s not? Had Holden refused to fix the car or done a botched job that still left the car with problems, it would be a different story, but if the car is back to brand-new, I would consider the problem to be solved. I’m tipping head office will see it the same way.

I believe that General Motors in the US did, in fact, issue a technical service bulletin (like a recall, but not a safety related issue) for a batch of Cruzes with dud negative battery terminals. Apparently, the cables were poorly made and could, over time, stop conducting electrons to the point where major systems, including the radio, could go to lunch. But it sounds like you’ve already replaced that component. The thing is, if the cable was replaced with one from the same batch, it could conceivably also give problems. The fact that your radio worked for some months before going on the fritz again, makes me wonder if that’s not the case here.

If the unit itself is at fault, you’re either stuck with finding a specialist who can repair it or replacing it. The good news is that you don’t have to buy a genuine Holden replacement. There are oodles of aftermarket replacement units out there that cost a fraction of the $2000 you’ve been quoted and can upgrade the Cruze to include Bluetooth connectivity, Android and Apple CarPlay and even add a reversing camera for extra safety. That’s the way I’d be going. Especially since Holden is very unlikely to cover the cost of a replacement unit in a car almost a decade old.

It sounds like you’re dealing with a fuel-air mixture issue when the engine is started from dead cold. If the mixture is too rich – which would be my suspicion – then black smoke is often a consequence.

A coolant temperature sensor should be telling the engine’s on-board computer what the temperature of the engine is, so that the computer can then tell the injectors how much fuel to inject into each cylinder. A dud sensor can cause the computer to inject too much fuel, and there’s the source of your black smoke. As the engine warms up, the sensor starts sending the correct signal to the computer and the smoke stops.

Of course, it’s not always that simple and you could also be looking at a blocked air filter, a blockage in the air intake system, worn fuel injectors and plenty more. Even a stuck or jammed thermostat can cause an engine to run poorly and blow black smoke if it can’t maintain the engine at the correct temperature. Old or stale fuel in the tank can also cause these symptoms. The fact that your car is not showing any fault codes suggests that perhaps you’re looking at one of these old-school problems.

It’s very difficult to diagnose problems over the phone, just as it is via this website. But, I’d be taking the vehicle straight back to the mechanic in question, because whatever is wrong is going to be fairly major.

In the majority of cases, an engine with a broken crankshaft won’t run. In fact, it won’t even turn over. Sometimes, it will still run, though, and the symptoms you’ve described are spot on for that. Either way, a broken crankshaft is one example of what’s called catastrophic failure and a new crankshaft (at the very least) is the usual result.

But those same symptoms can also be the result of a loose harmonic balancer. And here’s the clue: The harmonic balancer has to be removed to replace the front crankshaft seal (which was done the day before the problems started). If the balancer is not reinstalled correctly, it can start to wobble, tear up the new seal and make all sorts of noises and vibrations. The bad news is that often, the wobbling balancer destroys the end (called the snout) of the crankshaft in the process, so even though the crank is not broken or snapped per se, it may still need to be replaced. It does seem like a fantastic coincidence that the balancer started wobbling the day after it was removed and refitted. That said, if the crankshaft has failed, then a coincidence is precisely what it might be.

The recommended service interval for this vehicle is every 10,000km. Roughly speaking, every second service is a bit more involved, so that suggests it’s more of a `major’ service. Either way, skipped services on a vehicle like this will be false economy in the longer term.

On the timing belt front, there’s good news and bad. The good news is that both the turbo-diesel and petrol V6 versions of the Colorado both use timing chains, so there’s no need to change a timing belt. The bad news is that the petrol version uses the Alloytech V6 which is renowned for its ability to stretch its own timing chain to the point where it needs costly replacement. This is a known fault with this engine.

A car with a little extra ground clearance is great for camping as it often allows you to get a little farther away from the masses in their caravans who tend to huddle around the shower block at bush campsites.

The Subaru Outback is a good, solid choice and if you can find an independent workshop to service it, you’ll avoid the cost of dealership prices. And you’re right, the all-wheel-drive would be great for gravel roads. Another vehicle to look at would be a late-model Ford territory diesel which is big and clever inside and has the option of all-wheel-drive. The diesel engine is a plus on the bush where that fuel is more readily available (in really remote areas) and gives you more range for big holidays in the mulga.

Don’t rule out things like the Mitsubishi Pajero, either, which won’t be as around-town friendly, but is a proven quantity and is absolutely tremendous off-road. The same goes for a Toyota Prado or Nissan Pathfinder prior to the current model (which is a bit less hard-core adventure).

As with any four-wheel-drive that is approaching middle-age, you need to treat every Colorado on its individual merits. How has it been driven? Has it been used as a work truck? Has it spent every weekend off-road?

Beyond that, the Colorado is subject to the same concerns that challenge all owners of modern, common-rail diesel engines. Those start with the soot filter which can clog up and require manual cleaning. The solution is to make sure you do at least one decent freeway journey every three or four weeks as a means of allowing the filter to regenerate as it’s supposed to.

The other thing that catches many owners out is a build up of black gunge in the engine’s inlet tract. The black ooze is a combination of oil mist from the crankcase ventilation system and soot from the exhaust (a modern engine consumes a proportion of its own exhaust gasses as an emissions-reduction measure). When these two compounds mix, the black, sticky murk is the result. If it’s bad enough it can trigger a check-engine light on the dash and can lead to poor running and fuel economy. Left long enough, the whole intake system will need to be removed and manually cleaned. An aftermarket oil separator stops this is it traps the oil mist before it can enter the engine and is a good addition to these vehicles.

As the vast majority of Holden Cruzes sold were automatics, finding out information on the manual version is not so easy. But I have heard of a few cases of this model suffering transmission faults where the gearbox becomes jammed in gear (and won’t come out) or jammed in neutral (and won’t select a gear).

If that’s the case, then it could be a case of a broken or faulty gear-selector cable or mechanism and may not mean the entire gearbox is toast. Either way, I’d expect more than 120,000km of service in a modern car before the gearbox died. But you haven’t told me the symptoms, so it’s hard to know what’s going on. Is the clutch okay? Is it a case of the driveshaft (rather than the gearbox itself) having failed?

As for replacing the gearbox with a brand-new one, I think that finding a good used unit from a wrecking yard would be a much more wallet-friendly exercise. The exception would be if the problem affected all manual Cruzes, at which point, a second-hand replacement would only be postponing the inevitable for a second time. But since the value of the car wouldn’t be more than the cost of a brand-new transmission, the equation comes down to whether you like the car enough to keep it. Is the rest of the car in good condition? If not, you might be better cutting your losses and finding something newer and with plenty of life left in it.

As a rule of thumb, white smoke from a diesel engine suggests the fuel is not burning properly. If your engine only blew smoke when you first started it up each morning, I’d suggest the glow-plugs weren’t working properly and heating up the combustion chambers to gain a complete burn of the fuel.

But since it’s blowing smoke all the time, I think you could be looking at a fuel-injection problem. The injectors themselves could be bad (and it only takes one dud to make gales of smoke) or the system is mis-timed and not injecting the fuel precisely when it should be. These engines self-analyse themselves as you drive and it seems the car knows it has a problem, because it has turned on the check-engine light as a warning to you that something is amiss. Your first move should be to have the injectors checked as well as the injection timing