Are you having problems with your Holden Commodore? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Holden Commodore issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Holden Commodore in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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Why did you ask for then brakes to be checked, was there a problem with them? It's most unusual for a master cylinder to need replacing at such low kays it must have been faulty. There's no excuse for Holden not to have the part available, if the dealer can't help go direct to Holden's customer assistance people and enlist their help. Perhaps you could suggest they rat a part from a new car sitting on the dealer's lot if the part can't be supplied quickly.
It's the first time I have heard of "Croak" and I would be asking the dealer to explain what they mean by the term. It could be as simple as a valve lifter needing to be replaced, or it could be serious like piston slap, which is what affected the 5.7-litre V8 engine used before your engine. Have an experienced engine man listen to the engine during the warm-up phase to tell you what part of the engine the noise is coming from. Because your warranty is about to expire I would recommend you place your concerns on the record with the dealer and with Holden. You should also be aware that Holden's responsibility for the product it sells does not end when the warranty ends, there is no time limit on the company's responsibility under our consumer laws.
I would suggest it's a problem with the mixture, and I guess it's too lean. Check the oxygen sensors, if they are ok check the system itself.
I would suggest that there was a misunderstanding on the part of the person who told you it could be done after delivery, but you should be able to have a dealer accessory, or an aftermarket system fitted.
Fitting an external transmission fluid cooler would be one you could think of, particularly if you are doing a lot of towing. If you're not, having the transmission serviced regularly and the fluid changed is a wise thing to do.
This is a hobbyhorse of mine, as I think the designers in this case have put form before function, and I agree with you the instruments are hard to read. Putting the low beam lights on makes it a little easier, but doesn't fix the problem. Having the digital speed readout on, as you have done, is about the only solution for you, but if like me you don't like digital speed readouts you're out of luck. I urge people to check things like this when they test drive a car before purchase, that's the time to identify issues you might have with a car later on.
Many thousands of V6 Commodores have been successfully converted and there’s no reason to be afraid of converting your car. It would be fitted with an old style of system rather a new injection type, but there’s nothing wrong with that. A word of caution, however, is that you should make sure your engine is good and healthy before you convert it. It’s an old engine and I’m guessing it’s done lots of kays, so it’s worth having it thoroughly checked for tune and compression before you commit to the conversion.
The idle mixture would appear to be incorrect. Check first for any possible vacuum leaks that might cause it to be lean and unstable at idle, also check the oxygen sensors and makes sure they are working correctly.
It would seem either the ignition switch or the neutral/park safety switch is faulty. I would guess it's the former. A mechanic or an auto electrician should be able to fix it for you.