Ask The Guide

Australian-delivered Fords didn’t get a five-year warranty until May 2018, so I’m assuming the warranty you’re talking about is an aftermarket one sold to you by the dealer when you bought the car a year ago. If so, then there’s very little chance that it will cover a failed clutch (or anything else much, for that matter) as these warranties are notoriously worthless. Disputing the ruling could well be a lost cause as the fine-print in the warranty will doubtless be written to favour the insurer.

However, I fail to see how a failed clutch could cause a manual gearbox to fail, other than if the clutch was slowly dying and you were forced, over a period of time, to be brutal with the gear-shifter to select gears that didn’t want to cooperate. There is the chance that a clutch-pack breaking to pieces inside a dual-clutch transmission could, indeed, cause such a catastrophic failure, but as you haven’t told me what type of gearbox is fitted to your car, it’s a bit hard to say. That said, the Kuga got the wet-clutch version of Ford’s dual-clutch and not the vastly more troublesome dry-clutch Powershift unit. For that reason, the Kuga was not part of the recall that Ford issued for Ecosports, Fiestas and Focusses for transmission failures.

A car that feels unstable even in a straight line is a potential death trap. The higher speeds on the open road (as opposed to driving around the suburbs) are obviously amplifying the problem, but whatever it is needs to be fixed fast. To be honest, I wouldn’t be driving it at all.

You could be looking at a problem with either the steering system itself, worn suspension or even a loose (or rusted) front cross-member that is allowing things to move in directions they shouldn’t. Don’t rule out poor wheel alignment or even incorrect tyre pressures, either. Has the car been crashed and repaired? Poor crash repairs can leave a car misaligned, making it steer and handle oddly. Either way, get it checked and fixed pronto.

This generation of full-sized Fords was a bit notorious for body computer problems that have symptoms very much like the ones you’ve listed. Essentially, the body computer is responsible for all the communication between the car’s various systems, including air-conditioning, cruise-control, central locking and much, much more. If the computer fails, replacement is usually the only real fix. Sometimes you’ll need to have the ignition key re-coded to the new computer, as well. The price quoted sounds about par for the course form what I’ve heard.

I’m with you that a car that’s only five years old probably shouldn’t need new components like a body computer, but when your car was brand-new, it was covered only by a three-year factory warranty. Ford Australia extended its warranty to five years in 2018 (for cars sold after that date) but that’s of little use to you. Twisting the dealer’s arm probably won’t do much, but have you contacted Ford Australia’s customer service division and stated your case? It might be worth your while.

While the later Y62 Nissan Patrol was petrol V8 only (and a thirsty one at that) it’s also way out of your budget. Go back in time to the old faithful GQ model, and you’re going too far back, as these are now quite old vehicles. Which leaves you with the GU model which fits within your budget but is still new enough to be around in good numbers and in good condition.

Within that GU model-window, the version I’d recommend is the earlier 4.2-litre turbo-diesel model built from 1997 to 2007. While there were other turbo-diesel engines offered in the GU, they were problematic, especially compared with the tough 4.2-litre unit. There was also large-capacity six-cylinder petrol engine, but that has a monstrous thirst as well. Given that you want to tow a camper and do some off-roading, the extra range and fuel efficiency of the turbo-diesel will be a bonus.

The only catch is that this engine was only ever tied to a five-speed manual gearbox, and if you want an automatic, you need to look elsewhere.

While the later Y62 Nissan Patrol was petrol V8 only (and a thirsty one at that) it’s also way out of your budget. Go back in time to the old faithful GQ model, and you’re going too far back, as these are now quite old vehicles. Which leaves you with the GU model which fits within your budget but is still new enough to be around in good numbers and in good condition.

Within that GU model-window, the version I’d recommend is the earlier 4.2-litre turbo-diesel model built from 1997 to 2007. While there were other turbo-diesel engines offered in the GU, they were problematic, especially compared with the tough 4.2-litre unit. There was also large-capacity six-cylinder petrol engine, but that has a monstrous thirst as well. Given that you want to tow a camper and do some off-roading, the extra range and fuel efficiency of the turbo-diesel will be a bonus.

The only catch is that this engine was only ever tied to a five-speed manual gearbox, and if you want an automatic, you need to look elsewhere.

Those are quite high kilometres for this model Prado, but all things considered, the price seems pretty reasonable. It will all depend on the overall condition of the vehicle, how it’s been used and how it’s been serviced. Make sure it hasn’t been battered to death underneath through off-road use and make sure the service handbook is up to date and not full of gaps where services have been skipped.

While the vast majority of Prado sales were automatics, there’s a core of die-hard manual enthusiasts out there, so there will always be a demand for the vehicle you’re looking at. The other thing that affects resale value is the accessories attached to the vehicle. But beware a Prado bearing a winch, mud tyres, lifted suspension and side-rails; it’s probably spent a lot of time off road.

While it might sound like your car is haunted, I have actually come across this problem before and it’s not as rare as you might think. The clicking/tapping noise is actually caused by the actuator motor for the cabin-ventilation’s recirculation flap.

If any dirt or grease contaminates the internal electrical contacts inside the actuator (which is a little electric motor that opens and closes the flap) the actuator cannot electronically detect (or find) its parked position. So, it continues to cycle the flap, searching in vain for the contact that tells it to switch off. That continual cycling is what you can hear.

You can replace the actuator or, if you’re keen and a bit handy, you can remove the actuator from under the dashboard (near the glove-box) take the unit apart and clean the contacts to that it all works properly again. Or take it to a Ford dealership, as a 2018 anger should still be covered by the factory warranty (Ford upgraded the warranty to five years in 2018).

If you’re happy with the Mazda 6 wagon – and it sounds like you are - then there’s a good case for sticking with the Mazda brand. And if that’s the case, the next thing to consider is which model and body style. Given your requirement for a car that is easier to get in and out of, I reckon a mid-sized SUV might make the most sense since it’s footprint will be similar to the Mazda 6 you have now, but it sits you higher and more upright. On that basis, the Mazda CX-5 seems the natural choice.

If you go for the petrol-engined Touring model, you’ll get all-wheel-drive for extra grip and safety as well as keyless entry and start where you can open the vehicle and start the engine without even taking the key from your pocket. Very convenient. If you can afford a little more, the GT model gets you the powered front seats you need and these even have a memory function that will automatically adjust them to either your or your husband’s preferred settings as a one-button job. Again, very convenient. The GT model also get a powered tailgate which was also on your must-have list. About the only thing missing is the full-sized spare wheel, and all Mazda CX-5s use a space-saver spare. But be honest, are you going to change a flat tyre yourself, or call roadside assistance? And when was the last time you experienced a flat tyre anyway?

If the gearbox won’t shift gears, then the vehicle won’t be able to accelerate any further once the engine has reached its maximum speed in the gear in which it’s stuck. That’s probably (I’m guessing) why the car feels like it won’t go any faster.

There are any number of reasons for an automatic gearbox to remain in one gear and refuse to shift. They start with low transmission fluid and go all the way up to a major internal failure or even a computer-related problem. There’s no real way to diagnose these possibilities remotely, so you really need to get the vehicle to somebody who specialises in automatic transmissions and get them to take a close look and diagnose the problem.

If it’s a major problem with the gearbox, your decision then becomes one of whether the vehicle itself is in good enough condition to warrant spending the money. A major job such as a new transmission and the labour to fit it could easily wind up costing more than the car is worth. Sometimes you’re better off scrapping the vehicle, cutting your losses and moving on to something newer and safer.

This needs to be fixed fast, Toni, as a car’s exhaust fumes are a deadly cocktail of gasses. Enough exposure to them can make you pass out (an obvious problem when you’re driving) or worse. Diesel engines are generally a bit smellier than a petrol engine, but no exhaust fumes should ever enter the car.

You’re either getting fumes drawn into the car via a faulty seal that is allowing exhaust fumes in, or the smell you’re experiencing is fumes in the engine-bay coming through the firewall. You need to inspect all the rubber seals around the doors and hatchback and search underneath the car and in the engine bay for a split or missing rubber bung or grommet that is letting the outside in.

The other question I have is whether the smell is the result of exhaust fumes or, in fact, the smell of unburnt diesel fuel. Diesel cars often acquire a diesel-fuel smell over time and the cause is hard to avoid. Because diesel doesn’t evaporate, the ground around the diesel pump at a service station is usually one big oily, diesel slick. When you fill your car, you unavoidably stand in this slick which is then transferred to the car’s carpet when you get back in. It’s not as crazy as it sounds, and it may be the clue you’re missing to explain the smell.