Ask The Guide

Thanks for getting in touch with us. Our first thought was for you to consider a Mazda 6 wagon from Japan, since it is one of the few new wagons left on offer within your price range, is economical and reliable, a pleasure to drive and low enough (at 1480mm) for your garage situation. But it doesn't quite meet all your requirements in that it hasn't much ground clearance (at just 125mm) and back-seat legroom isn't great. It's worth remembering that the 6 wagon is 80mm shorter in wheelbase - the distance between the front and rear wheels - than the corresponding sedan version. It's a bit tight in there.

Alternatively, you might want to consider the just-discontinued Holden ZB Commodore wagon or Ford Mondeo wagon, as both offer substantially more rear-seat legroom than the Mazda 6 wagon, as well as the choice of a turbo-petrol or turbo-diesel engines. These are European-sourced models (Germany and Spain respectively), with big boots and towing-friendly torquey engines. However, again, low ground clearances might be an issue here as well.

So, our advice is to measure your garage roof and see if either of the medium SUVs listed below can fit, because if they do, then these would be the absolutely ideal vehicles for your need.

The better of the two, for its overall quiet refinement, all-weather all-wheel-drive grip and excellent all-round vision is the Subaru Forester from Japan. It ticks all your boxes in terms of needs and suitability, while providing heaps of ground clearance at 220mm. Plus it offers excellent standard safety kit, economy, reliability and resale, as well as decent performance. Just know that it stands 1730mm tall. If that fits, then find yourself a demo at $35,000 and enjoy one of the best family-car buys at any price available today.

Then there our second favourite, the wildly-popular Toyota RAV4, also from Japan. Much of what we said about the Forester applies here too, except it is front-wheel drive rather than AWD at your price point. There is a RAV AWD but it is a hybrid AWD system that takes the price into the mid-$40,000 region, so that's out of contention. The base RAV4 2WD also has a smaller engine (at 2.0-litres) than the Subaru, but it is equally response and agile. Where the RAV4 eclipses the Forester from your perspective is height – it is shorter at 1685mm high, while still allowing 195mm ground clearance.

Both Japanese SUVs are huge inside, with loads of space to boot. If their height doesn't end up being a problem, then know that either will provide many years of faultless, reliable, economical and enjoyable service. Good luck, we hope this helps. 

Hi Nor, the Kia Sorento is generally reliable and robust, with only a few electrical problems being the main issues, but most should have been sorted out by now. As the Sorento is closely related to the Hyundai Santa Fe, the same would apply to that SUV too.

The 2.4-litre four-cylinder engine you mention was only available in the UM model from 2009 to 2011. After that a 3.5-litre V6 took over. Both engines are known to be robust and dependable. We'd go for the V6 because it does not have to work as hard as the 2.4L hauling such a big and heavy vehicle around. Note, though, that the V6 is thirsty. 

The diesel is the best choice out of all of the engines available, as it is strong and hard-wearing as well as much more economical. 

In our opinion, the Sorento is a better buy than the Santa Fe, since it has more glass area and so is easier to see out of. The interior is pleasant, comfortable and easy to use. And, from the XM model launched in 2015, it is a nicer and quieter car to drive.

Finally, the Kia has offered a seven-year warranty as opposed to the Hyundai's five-year warranty since October 1, 2014, meaning it is possible to buy an older Sorento and still be covered by the factory warranty. 

Thanks for getting in touch. As we've outlined in earlier questions about the Cruze, the automatic in cars built between 2011 and 2013 has been an issue, and so the subject of recalls, repairs and/or full transmission replacement. If it starts to shudder, take its time shifting up under acceleration or not go into gear at all, then there's a problem.

If a Holden dealer carried out the repairs, then they should honour the warranty under Australian Consumer Law for a minimum of five years or 150,000km unless the car is then neglected and/or abused, given that the transmission and coolant system (known problem areas in Cruzes) are major components and thus come with a reasonable expectation of reliability and durability since they're new.

Unfortunately the Cruze has a reputation for unreliability beyond these issues as well, including ECU (engine control unit) and PCM (power control module) failures (often due to water ingress), positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve failure that makes the car perform sluggishly, and rough engine running due to faulty ignition coils.

As most of these problems have already been dealt with in the car you're considering, we reckon you might at least have a few years of reliability given the warranty work performed under Holden.

We hope this helps. Good luck.

Small all-wheel drive hatchbacks are rare in Australia, as only a comparatively tiny number of people live in the sort of environments that require the added traction and surety that AWD provides.

Also, most Australian consumers seeking AWD tend to go for smaller SUVs, since they are easier to get in and out of, offer a higher seating position and generally enjoy better resale values. On the flipside, SUVs cost more to buy and run, are not as stable at increased speeds due to their higher centre of gravity and are larger to manoeuvre in tighter parking spots than a small hatchback.

The Subaru Impreza remains the least expensive small AWD hatchback you can buy new, as well as the sole mainstream-branded model starting at under $30,000.

However, while the latest-generation Impreza launched in 2016 it's a huge improvement over previous iterations (with service intervals finally extended  to 12 months/12,500km), there are a few more compelling alternatives in small crossovers – that is, the in-between segment between small cars and SUVs; they boast a few extra centimetres of ground clearance without the bulk. Note only a few crossovers offer AWD as an option.

A recent stint in the new Impreza-derived XV 2.0L Hybrid revealed it to be a powerful and economical crossover with excellent handling and road-holding capabilities. The same applies to the Mazda3-based CX-30 AWD, the Toyota C-HR 1.2L-turbo AWD and Volkswagen T-Roc 140TSI 4Motion - though none are as frugal as the Subaru.

If you're not sold on the idea of an crossover AWD and prefer a small AWD hatchback, then your only other option is to stretch to premium European hatchbacks like the Mercedes-Benz A250 4Matic, BMW M135i xDrive, Audi A3 quattro and Volkswagen Golf R. But all generally cost upwards of $60,000 drive-away - and that's before some of the more desirable options fitted.

Finally, unless you are travelling hundreds of kilometres ever week, there is probably no benefit choosing diesel over petrol, as the former fuel is dirtier for the environment and not as quiet and refined as the latter. Additionally, diesels are falling out of favour with buyers due to their harmful emissions, and most companies are switching to petrol/electric hybrids as a solution. Again, this means the Subaru XV Hybrid AWD.

A long response we know, Jan, but we hope this helps.

Car makers do not publish driver height or weight recommendations, but instead usually develop vehicles to suit the height of a 99th percentile male (193cm) down to a 5th percentile woman (150cm).

For shorter-statured people, both the Toyota RAV4 and Toyota Camry offer seat-height and steering-wheel reach and height adjustment, meaning that there should be no issue finding a comfortable seating position. However, given that SUVs such as the RAV4 generally have a larger and deeper glass area as well as higher-set cushions than sedans like the Camry, we recommend the RAV4.

We hope this information helps.

Without being able to scan the car from here, this sounds like a classic case of a body computer that is suffering a slow death. This computer is the one that links all the car’s major functions, including those ones you’ve listed as being on the blink. Random failures of these systems all at once point to the computer itself rather than the systems themselves.

Hooking the car up to a scanner at a workshop will tell you a lot more about what’s going on as the mechanic should be able to read the fault codes and make a diagnosis from there. The alternative cause is a poor earth somewhere in the car or a dodgy battery that is playing hell with the computer’s power source. Modern cars will not tolerate a poor power supply or earthing problems.

By and large, a car should perform the same day in, day out without any huge (or even noticeable) changes in its performance. So I’d say, yes, something is wrong with your car. As for the cause, well, it could be anything from poor fuel to a faulty battery to a park-brake that is sticking on. It’s impossible to diagnose problems like this one remotely, so have it checked out at a workshop. Continuing to drive it with a fault is asking for more damage to be done.

When you say you tried another battery, was that second battery charged up, and what’s it’s condition. Even a brand-new battery fresh from the shelf of a parts store can be low on charge and may need a few hours on a charger before it’s ready to start a car, especially one with a large engine like a Holden Statesman. If the battery was just another one you borrowed from somewhere else, it could well be about as worn out as the one you replaced. Even a battery that shows 12 volts when you test it with a voltmeter, can suddenly drop its bundle when you place it under load (such as trying to start a car with it). You need to check the battery’s current while it’s attempting to turn the engine over.

Other possibilities could be worn out battery leads (do they get hot when you try to start the car?) a poor earth somewhere between the engine and the car’s chassis or even battery terminals that are old and crusty. Don’t rule out a failed starter motor, either. Often a worn-out starter can pole out internally, causing a huge internal short that will produce the same slow cranking we associate with a dying battery.

There are two possibilities here. Either the shifter mechanism has jammed or failed and will only allow you to select second or fourth or, the gearbox itself has failed internally, and the ensuing mechanical carnage has jammed it up. The wild-card is the clutch which could have failed. If that was the case, though, I’d imagine you wouldn’t be able to select any gears at all with the engine running.

The first step would be to check from underneath whether the gear linkages and selectors have somehow got tangled up in each other – it can happen – but if that’s not the case, then I’m afraid it’s probably a gearbox-out job. Make sure you fit a new clutch when it all goes back together.

It sounds like you have a problem with the signal from the car to the speedometer here. The speedometer needle creeping around to 2km/h when the car is standing still is likely to be a problem with the instrument’s calibration or the sensor that is supposed to measure the car’s speed.

The same goes for the speedo needle rising or falling on its own while you’re driving (I’ll assume it’s the needle `accelerating’ you refer to, not the actual car - at which point you have a death-trap on your hands). My money’s on the sensor which is – due to an incorrect battery voltage, a poor earth or an internal fault – sending the wrong signal to the computer that then controls the speedo needle. The problem could also be the speedometer unit itself which could have a bad actuator that is sending the needle haywire.