Ask The Guide

As a rule of thumb, white smoke from a diesel engine suggests the fuel is not burning properly. If your engine only blew smoke when you first started it up each morning, I’d suggest the glow-plugs weren’t working properly and heating up the combustion chambers to gain a complete burn of the fuel.

But since it’s blowing smoke all the time, I think you could be looking at a fuel-injection problem. The injectors themselves could be bad (and it only takes one dud to make gales of smoke) or the system is mis-timed and not injecting the fuel precisely when it should be. These engines self-analyse themselves as you drive and it seems the car knows it has a problem, because it has turned on the check-engine light as a warning to you that something is amiss. Your first move should be to have the injectors checked as well as the injection timing

Engines are amazing things, Renee. Neglected, they can fall to bits in a surprisingly short space of time. But treat them properly with the correct preventative maintenance and you’d be surprised how far they’ll go before they wear out.

What you haven’t told me is whether your vehicle is diesel or petrol powered. That said, both the diesel and petrol engines fitted to this model Pajero are well regarded in the trade and capable of going the distance if, as you claim, the servicing has been by the book. Over the distance you’ve quoted, I’d expect the diesel to have needed possibly a new turbocharger and definitely new fuel-injectors, while the petrol V6 can cover this distance without any major work.

But while the engine might, indeed, have lots of life left in it, what about all the other components? The brake rotors, shock absorbers, transmission and many other intrinsic parts of the vehicle wear out, too. So, just because the engine is fit and healthy, doesn’t mean the rest of the car will be so tip-top and ready for another 300,000km.

There are three (generally speaking) things that can be causing this problem, Mark. You could have a problem with the clutch, the gear selectors or something internal in the gearbox itself. A worn or collapsed bearing or mangled gear cluster could cause this, but I’d expect other symptoms like horrendous noises and the refusal to select some gears at all, not just randomly. If you’re lucky, the cause could a simple mal-adjustment of the selector mechanism.

Meanwhile, you’ve told me you don’t think there’s anything wrong with the clutch but, to be honest, I’ve seen these same symptoms before on cars with worn out clutches. Sometimes the actuating fingers of the clutch break, other times there’s just too much wear for the clutch to function properly. Sometimes it’s as simple as a leak from the clutch’s hydraulic system or a stretched clutch cable. But either way, clutch problems can certainly cause this sort of grief.

Reverse can be hard to select because the clutch is not disengaging fully, so try this experiment: Turn the engine off and try to engage reverse. If it goes in easily every time and only baulks when the engine is running, that’s a classic case of a dying clutch.

Modern cars are really susceptible to power `spikes’ when the battery is being reconnected. Often, these power surges can damage electronic equipment and perhaps that’s what’s happened to the unit in your Territory.

If that’s the case, the unit will need to be removed and repaired by a specialist. The worst-case scenario may involve an entire replacement ICC. It could also be that the ICC requires a code to re-boot it after being disconnected from a power source. If that’s the case, a visit to a Ford dealership might be all that is required.

I have some not-so-good news for you, David. The US-spec Ranger has a driveline that allows the transfer-case to be placed in neutral-2WD. Australian Rangers don’t. And it’s really that simple.

Flat-towing an Aussie Ranger would mean that the automatic transmission would be spinning internally without lubrication. That’s because the oil pump that lubricates the transmission only operates when the car’s engine is running.

Modern four-wheel-drive tech has all but eliminated the neutral position in the transfer-case, so the vast majority of vehicles are in the same boat. Technically, you could flat-tow a vehicle with a manual transmission (because the gearbox is splash-lubricated, not pump-lubricated) but my contacts at Ford tell me that you’d void your new-car warranty in the process in the Ranger’s case.

So what are your flat-towing options? Something like a Jeep Wrangler or Suzuki Jimny might be okay (but I’d check with the manufacturer first) or find something older with an old-school transfer-case set-up that allows for a neutral position.

The D-Max is pretty well regarded in the trade for its ability to go the distance, but modern, common-rail diesel technology has shown that a vehicle with fewer kilometres is usually a better bet than one with more. Although they do an amazing job in terms of power, torque, towing and fuel economy, today’s turbo-diesels are pretty highly strung in some ways and really need their maintenance. And the older they get, the more attention they seem to need in terms of new injectors, filters and pumps.

A D-Max with those kilometres might be ready for a pretty big (and expensive) service, too, so make sure your first trip in it isn’t going to be to a workshop. Ultimately, price, condition and service history should steer your decision as they should in any second-hand vehicle purchase. I’d take a vehicle with 150,000km with a full service history over a 60,000km one with no service records.

I’d love to know what a “certain distance” is. That would give me a much better chance of offering a sensible answer. If we’re talking 100km before the car loses drive, I’d be thinking that it’s something electrical perhaps or something to do with the on-board computer.

But if the loss of drive happens within the first 10 kilometres or so of each drive, then I’d be suspecting the transmission itself. Have you checked the level of the transmission fluid? Too much or not enough fluid in the gearbox can cause it to run hot enough to lose drive. Perhaps it’s the transmission cooler not behaving properly and maintaining things at the correct temperature.

Automatic gearboxes hate high temperatures and if you continue to drive it like this, there’s a good chance you’ll cook something.

The recommended service interval for this vehicle is every 10,000km. Roughly speaking, every second service is a bit more involved, so that suggests it’s more of a `major’ service. Either way, skipped services on a vehicle like this will be false economy in the longer term.

On the timing belt front, there’s good news and bad. The good news is that both the turbo-diesel and petrol V6 versions of the Colorado both use timing chains, so there’s no need to change a timing belt. The bad news is that the petrol version uses the Alloytech V6 which is renowned for its ability to stretch its own timing chain to the point where it needs costly replacement. This is a known fault with this engine.

A problem like this could be caused by any number of things, James. Electronically interrogating the on-board computer is a wise first step, as the error codes that will result will possibly lead you straight to the offending component.

In cars like yours with electronic fuel-injection and engine management, there’s an array of sensors that need to send the correct signal to the car’s on-bord brain for everything to function properly. Replacing these sensors one by one until you fix the problem is a very time and cash consuming way of proceeding. Have the car scanned instead and see what fault codes show up.

Meantime, if I had to venture a guess, I’s say the problem sounds ignition related. An engine will often idle properly with no load on it, but when you select a gear, there’s suddenly load applied and, if the ignition system is not spot on, the engine can suddenly do all sorts of crazy things, including dropping cylinders. The other thing that occurs to me is that your battery might be low on charge. Injected engines absolutely do not like a lack of volts.

A lot of cars seem to suffer from this. The fuel seems to back-up in the filler neck, and that’s what causes the bowser to click off (as a safety measure, to prevent fuel being sprayed around the forecourt). There are three things that seem to help with this.

The first is to place the bowser nozzle half way into the car’s fuel neck. Pushing it all the way in will often make the problem worse, and only half poking it in seems to have the effect of allowing the car to swallow the fuel faster without it backing up. The second thing to try is to insert the nozzle and then rotate it 90-degrees to one side or the other. Again, this seems to re-align the nozzle in the filler neck and can help. The third trick is to pull the trigger on the nozzle only part way. That slows the fuel flow down a little, but if it prevents the bowser continually clicking off, it’s still faster.