Ask The Guide

There are many variables that can determine how reliable or or otherwise a vehicle can be, especially one that's 11-years-old. A full Volvo dealer-stamped service history, careful owners and pure luck all play a role here, and should be a prerequisite. 

Research shows that the XC90's D5 diesel engine's injectors have been known to fail, and this can be an expensive fix. This may or not be associated with power-loss issues.

Blown turbos, electrical faults and overheating problems have also been reported multiple times.

Some earlier XC90s have been known to suffer from complete transmission failure, reportedly preceded by "strange" noises before bringing the car to a total stop. It seems regular full transmission servicing really reduces the instances of this happening, so again, insist on a fully-stamped service book from authorised Volvo dealers or specialists. 

While not strictly speaking mechanical, the Volvo's sunroof can leak, and this can become very costly to rectify. Neglecting this problem can then lead to electrical failures and water ingress damage inside the cabin.

Our research shows the XC90 D5 of your vintage is no more likely to break down than most European rival luxury SUVs of the same period, which is reasonably good news, though Japanese alternatives do perform better generally.

We hope this helps.

Every all-new MY21 Isuzu D-Max and select current versions of the Amarok and Ranger offer a 3500kg towing capacity maximum - namely all Amarok V6 autos and all Rangers EXCEPT the 4x2 XL Single Cab Chassis Low-Rider 2.2 Diesel at the bottom of the Ford range, and the 4x4 Raptor Double Cab Pick-Up 2.0L Diesel at the very top (they're both 2500kg).

Least torquey is the D-Max at 450Nm, followed by the Ranger (2.2L 4-cyl: 385Nm, 3.2L 5-cyl: 470Nm and 2.0L twin-turbo 4-cyl: 500Nm) and Amarok (550Nm to 580Nm), meaning the Amarok will probably be the least challenged towing a 2.8-tonne caravan. But all three should suffice.

Please note, however, that Gross Combined Mass (GCM) tallies means that there are other weight factors that need to be considered before safely towing a 2.8-tonne caravan, even with a 3500kg ute. These include things like the ute's payload, heavy bull bars, sports bars and side steps, canopies and even the number of people travelling inside. And of course, a fully-equipped and laden caravan can easily exceed the stated tare mass.

We hope this helps.   

ZS pros include cheap pricing, an easy driving experience and a comparatively spacious interior compared to other direct rivals like a Mazda CX-3. The dash is pleasant, there is a decent amount of equipment and the controls are all simple to use. It should also be fairly inexpensive to run and service, though earlier ZSs like yours require six-monthly rather than 12-monthly service intervals.

There are two engine options - a 1.5-litre four-cylinder model with a four-speed auto on the base Excite, or a 1.0-litre turbo three-cylinder version on higher-specification Excite Plus and Essence grades with a six-speed auto. Note that the latter powertrain is more expensive to service.

Plus, there's still a fair chunk of the manufacturer's warranty left, which is seven years, while capped-price servicing is also offered.

But the ZS does not offer AEB Autonomous Emergency Braking, so only rates a four-star ANCAP crash-test rating.

Additionally, the ZS's suspension is on the firm side in terms of dealing with road bumps, which might upset some occupants, yet there is not much of the 'fun factor' in regards to steering and handling finesse that rivals like the CX-3, Suzuki Vitara, Honda HR-V, Hyundai Venue, Holden Trax, Ford EcoSport and Hyundai Kona offer in spades.

We've also heard complaints about the interior's perceived quality being sub-par, cabin storage isn't generous and Android Auto isn't supported (though Apple CarPlay is).

Finally, the ZS' resale value trails all of the aforementioned competitors by a significant margin, meaning it's on track to be worth less when the time comes to on-sell it.

We'd recommend the Nissan T32 X-Trail Series II from mid-2017-onwards and Subaru S4 Forester (2013-2018), since they both make strong secondhand buys due to their reliability, economy, ease of operation, spacious interiors, practicality and strong resale values.

The reason why we'd buy the 2017-onwards X-Trail Series II is because it standardises Autonomous Emergency Braking (AEB). With the Forester, you'll need to skip the lower grades 2.0i-L (manual-only) and 2.5i-L (auto only) for the S and XT for that important safety technology Subaru calls 'EyeSight'. 

The X-Trail comes in front-wheel drive (2WD) or all-wheel drive (AWD) configurations, but the Forester is AWD-only. All automatics are of the continuous variable transmission (CVT) variety, which priorities fuel economy but can make the engine drone under hard acceleration. Subaru calls its CVT Lineartronic while Nissan dubs its version X-Tronic.

Our recommendation is to check the service and maintenance history of any car you buy, to ensure every interval has been met and carried out by a proper dealer or brand specialist. This is especially important with the Forester, as it is a slightly more complicated vehicle mechanically. Note that all Subarus of this generation require six-monthly service intervals, not 12-monthly ones like the Nissan, which might be an inconvenience. 

We'd steer clear of ex-rentals as they tend to have a very hard life (both models were popular with such agencies), though they're almost always the base X-Trail ST and Forester 2.5i-L grades that end up as rental fodder.

If you're thinking about diesel engined versions, the X-Trail in middle-range TL and up-spec TS guises switched from the earlier (2014-2017) Series 1's 1.6-litre turbo-diesel to a much more powerful and effective 2.0-litre unit, so that's worth remembering. In the Forester the 2.0D equates to the mid-level petrol models in terms of equipment levels.

Finally, we recommend a mechanical check-up to see that your potential used-buy has not been subjected to punishing off-road treatment. While both the Forester and X-Trail offer good ground clearances, they're not for off-road use, only light gravel, snow or trail driving.

We hope this helps. Good luck. 

There are many things you should look out for before buying a second-hand workhorse like an XL 4x2 ute. Most never have an easy life.

Are there signs of abuse and/or neglect? How was the tray/load bed used, was it a tow vehicle and what does the type of wear and tear does it have?  Was the vehicle off the road at any time, and why? This may indicate a major accident.

Finding answers requires a level of trust and taking the vendor's word at face value, but you can back these up with service records and history. Are they complete, and carried out by a Ford dealer or specific Ford specialist? If the answer to either is no, then that should be a red flag. In our opinion, these vehicles require specialised Ford maintenance.

Furthermore, having 15,000km service intervals is a bit of a stretch for such hard-working vehicles, so skipped ones is especially worrying.

We also recommend taking the Ranger to an independent mechanic for inspection, especially to check the body and suspension underneath for signs of over-loading or off-roading. 

Since the PX generation was launched in 2011 Ford has issued many recalls for the Ranger, and some are serious, including for being a fire hazard over tall grass due to exposed exhaust. The car's service history will indicate whether all recalls have been carried. You can crosscheck them at this website: https://www.productsafety.gov.au/recalls 

Rangers are known to have issues with the automatic transmission, engine control module (ECM) failures (that send the truck into 'limp home mode' in hotter climates or after long-distance driving), air-conditioning, turbos and engine crank bearing. Most of these should be picked up by an experienced mechanical check-up before buying, or sorted out under warranty if you decide on a newer model.

This sort of advice applies to all used trucks. Fundamentally, the T6 Ranger is a solid, safe, durable, comfortable and enjoyable truck to own and drive, and remains the only one (along with the T6-based Mazda BT-50 from 2012 to mid-2020) that is designed, developed and engineered for Australian conditions, so don't be put off.

Just make sure it has history, ask pointed questions about how it's been used and don't be afraid to insist on a mechanic's report.

We hope this helps. Good luck.

Having a replacement engine fitted will not damage your car’s resale value. In fact, I think the situation would be quite the opposite. If the vehicle is burning oil to the extent that Toyota wants to replace the engine under warranty, then there’s something not right inside the engine. And trying to sell a vehicle in that condition would be virtually impossible, not to mention that you’d be tearing up dollars because it would be worth a fraction of the same Kluger with a good engine.

Continuing to drive a car that’s burning excess oil can damage the catalytic converter in the exhaust system, so it’s not wise to simply keep topping the oil up; the problem needs to be addressed and fixed permanently.

About the only way a replacement engine will affect resale value is in the case of a classic or collector vehicle where potential buyers want to see a car with its original engine and transmission. With all due respect to the Toyota Kluger, that’s not likely to ever be an issue with your car.

We contacted Mazda specifically on your behalf, and its response is that only some grades have an engine cover. Ones that do not are the base XT, while the XTR and GT versions do have a cover. We hope this helps.

When talking about engine oil (as opposed to transmission, brake, power steering, differential, radiator or other types of oils found in cars) for your Holden TS Astra, a 10W-40 rating is best, though 15W-40 is good and 20W-40 is also OK. Make sure to go with a trusted brand.

Hi Jeanie, assuming you mean the turbo-charger, it is located at the front of the engine, behind the heat shield. It isn't too difficult for an experienced BMW/Mini mechanic to do the job, but the turbo itself may be expensive to replace if it is seized, and you may also be faced with high hourly labour rates going to a BMW/Mini specialist, so do shop around. Please do ensure that you speak to a specialist who has worked on Minis before.

Here's a top tip: assuming also that your Mini is from 2007 to 2014 (R55 through to R60 series), call up Peugeot specialists too, as the 'Prince' engine in Mini turbos is exactly the same as the ones used in some Peugeot 207, 308, 508 and RCZ models from about 2007 to 2015. Later Minis (from 2014 to date with an 'F' designation like F56) use an entirely different engine, so if that's yours, disregard the Peugeot specialist.

Your son's one tonner is based on the VY and VZ Commodore era of vehicles, and so shares its interior with the sedan, wagon, utility, Crewman and Adventra. The VY series ran from 2002 to 2004 and the VZ from 2004 to 2007. The later VE and VF Commodores are completely different with no shared parts bar some powertrain (engine and transmission) components.

What you'll need to do is make sure the colour and trim patterns match your son's VZ one tonner, but if that's not a worry then all should have interchangeable parts.