Ask The Guide

The Ford Focus wasn’t released into Australia until late 2002, so it’s very unlikely you have a 2001 model unless it’s been privately imported. At which point, all bets are off in this regard as different markets had different models which may or may not be swappable.

But if the two cars are the same model of Focus and aren’t either side of an upgrade, facelift or model change AND provided they used the same engine from the factory (1.8 litre or 2.0 litre) then you should be able to repower one with the other’s engine. The problems would start if one was a 1.8 and the other a 2.0 when you might find that wiring looms, computer software, sensors and even engine mounts might differ from each other, making the swap much harder than it should be. Don’t forget to inform your insurance company and your local registration authorities of the change of engine number.

This model has a terrible record in terms of engine overheating. Even the petrol engine version has been recalled by Ford Australia after overheating and engine-bay fires were reported both here and in other markets.

The diesel doesn’t seem as likely to catch fire, but there’s definitely a trend for it to present with exactly the same problems and outcomes as your vehicle. Those symptoms include a lack of warning that anything is amiss, followed by a total engine melt-down with destructive consequences. As of right now, Ford hasn’t recalled the diesel-engined Kuga for this problem, but it’s definitely a thing around the world.

In your case, it’s critical to know whether the problem was pointed out to a Ford dealership within the three-year warranty period. If that’s the case, then you have what’s known as a pre-existing problem which means, if the dealer was made aware of the fault within the factory warranty period, then it’s a warranty case. No questions.

Back when your car was brand-new, it carried a three-year warranty, so, you need to work backwards from the date you first notified the dealer of a problem (when the vehicle was topped up with coolant but not diagnosed further) to see if that falls within the first three years of that car’s registered life. Even if it works out a little beyond the warranty period, you’d have a strong case for a pro-rata contribution from Ford for the cost of repairs, since Australian Consumer law can, in some case cases, over-ride factory warranty restrictions. Your case will be even stronger if you have proof of a Ford dealership service history.

Even then, there could be some wrangling on the part of the dealer, particularly in terms of what actually caused the engine failure. But I’d be talking to Ford Australia’s customer service division to try to work out a solution.

You’re probably looking at two different, distinct problems here. It’s pretty unlikely that the car’s horn has anything to do with the reverse camera and vice-versa. The fact that the horn sometimes works and sometimes doesn’t suggests a wiring problem rather than anything wrong with the actual horn unit. You need to check the contacts along the entire horn circuit including the contacts on the horn itself as well as the contacts within the steering wheel that trigger the horn. In modern cars with air-bags, however, this is not a job for the casual tinkerer. Don’t forget the fuse-box, as the horn circuit will have a fuse and this could have shaken loose over time leading to the on-off problem.

The reverse camera problem could be down to the screen or the camera unit itself. Again, you need to check all the connections to make sure that everything is connected tightly and that no moisture has managed to get into the circuit (which is entirely possible as the tiny camera unit is mounted on the outside of the vehicle). And while it might sound silly, check that the lens of the camera isn’t covered in dirt or grease which could also leave you with no image on the screen. Clearly, when you select reverse and the screen goes blank, the camera system is trying to show you what’s behind you, so power is getting to part of the circuit. But either the camera isn’t picking up an image, or the screen is refusing to display it. An auto electrician sounds like a good one-stop shop for both your problems.

Modern engines rely on a raft of sensors to inform the computer of what’s going on under the bonnet and what needs to be adjusted to keep the thing running smoothly and efficiently. A car that is using too much fuel and stalling could be having a problem with the sensor that tells the on-board computer that the engine is up to operating temperature. A cold engine needs more fuel to run properly so, if the sensor is telling the computer that the engine is still cold, the computer will continue to inject extra fuel into it. Of course, if the engine is up to temperature (regardless of what the sensor says) that extra fuel will show up as increased fuel consumption and could easily make the engine stall or run roughly.

However, that’s just one possibility and with the dozens of sensors dotted around a modern engine, the best advice is to have the car electronically scanned to see what fault codes are thrown up. The good news is that these sensors are usually inexpensive to replace and should return things to spot on pretty much immediately. Other suspects would be oxygen sensors and maybe even the stepper motor which controls the idle speed.

This car was not universally panned for its poor ride quality, but comfort is a very subjective thing and if you’re felling the bumps, then you’re feeling them. And you’re not alone, because many owners of SUVs have experienced the very same thing.

By raising the ride height of a hatchback to create an SUV or cross-over, manufacturers suddenly find themselves with a vehicle that has a higher centre of gravity. That means that the car tends to roll more heavily in corners. The solution to keeping the car a tidy handler is to make the springs (suspension) stiffer and, therefore, reduce the amount of body-roll that is felt. But that’s often at the expense of ride quality. And that’s probably what you’re feeling in your Honda.

You can change the springs for a softer set, but you’ll be dramatically changing the car’s dynamic responses and could even find this change throws up all sorts of ABS and ESP anomalies as well as making the car technically unroadworthy. But all is not lost.

The other thing that has a dramatic affect on a car’s ride quality is the wheel and tyre package fitted. As manufacturers charge more for each hike in trim level, they also tend to fit tyres that are wider and have a smaller sidewall profile, for a sportier appearance. But here’s the problem: The smaller the tyre’s sidewall (it’s profile) the fewer bumps that tyre can absorb before it passes that bump on to the suspension and, ultimately, into the base of your seat. I’m tipping your car is an up-spec HR-V with 18-inch wheels and tyres and these, in fact, are the cause of the choppy ride you dislike so much.

The solution might be to fit the 17 or even 16-inch wheels and tyres from a lower-spec HR-V. You might find a Honda dealer who will swap your wheels and tyres for another set or even another HR-V owner who wants to upgrade to your 18-inch tyres in exchange for their 16-inchers. Opting for a smaller tyre with a higher sidewall is where we’d always start when attempting to improve a vehicle’s ride quality.
 

The R55 Mini five-door hatch was given a facelift in July 2020, so `F55 Update’ should indicate the fact that the car in question is a post-update model. The facelift wasn’t a huge one and didn’t affect the basic vehicle, but depending on what version of the car was involved, there were a few minor changes to help keep the car current and competitive with its peers. ‘New available to order,’ meanwhile, suggests that a car is a brand-new one and not a second-hand car or – and it’s quite common – a demonstrator model.

As far as extra costs go when buying a new car, it’s all a bit of a minefield. Dealers love charging delivery fees (often simply a wash and vacuum) and you should make sure that any extras – like floor mats or slimline number-plates – are either requested specifically by you or are thrown in by the dealer to sweeten the deal. And don’t be sucked into the other extras like paint protection, upholstery protection and rust-proofing. If a car maker can’t sell you a car in 2021 that won’t fade, rot or rust, then they don’t deserve your money.

Then there are the inevitable government charges. These vary from state to state but can include stamp duty, registration and more. Make sure the dealer spells out all these extras and budget for them. The best advice is to insist that the car dealer is absolutely upfront with the final figure you’ll be asked to hand over before driving off in the car. Regardless of what 'discounts’ and deals the dealer offers, the only number you need to worry about is the drive-away, no more to pay figure.

This is one thing that SUVs are actually very good at, Philip. The higher position of the body means that many people find them a lot easier to enter and leave as there’s less knee-bending and gravity-defying to be done.

The world is full of affordable SUVs right now, but you need to find the one that makes life easiest given your particular circumstances. As well as the height you need, look for an SUV that has doors that open wide as well as the grab-handles in places you require them. Make sure the door has a pull-handle in the right location so you can close it easily, too.

The old adage is that a car that has been damaged and repaired will never be as good as it once was. Frankly, that’s simply not true these days thanks to much better repair techniques and vehicle design. That said, any car that has been repaired needs to have been repaired properly, so you need to know the extent of the damage and who repaired it before you take the plunge. Make sure the repairs were carried out by a professional repairer and one that possesses the equipment necessary to complete the job perfectly. The rule of thumb also applies that: If you can see evidence of repairs, they haven’t been done properly.

It’s important to remember, too, that repairable write-offs aren’t necessary cars that have been damaged in a crash. They can also be stolen and recovered vehicles (perhaps with their interiors missing). The one to be very wary of is a repairable write-off that has been damaged by being driven into water. Generally, though, water-damaged cars are listed as statutory write-offs (never to see the road again) as they often give problems as time goes by.

By and large, a repairable write-off is a viable purchase if the repairs have been completed properly. But there will always be the element of doubt, and that’s what drives prices of these cars down.

The prices of second-hand cars have sky-rocketed recently due to a lack of supply. People are simply not selling their old cars at the usual rate (as trade-ins and private sales) so the laws of supply and demand apply. That is; more demand plus less supply equals higher prices. This phenomenon has been most strongly felt in the case of locally-made Holdens and Fords, perhaps because of nostalgia and the `they don’t make ‘em any more’ factor. Either way, it’s true that the second-hand Holden Calais that cost $6000 this time last year can be worth almost double that now.

With just 120,000km showing, your car is a relatively low-mileage example and the fact that it’s a V8 is good news. Beyond that, however, you haven’t given me much to go on. For a start, 2006 was a change-over year for Holden models; the VZ left showrooms and the new VE model entered. The difference between a VZ and VE in price is significant, particularly in V8 form. I’d also need to know whether your car is a Calais V. All those things have a bearing on value.

For the record, though, a VE Calais sedan in good condition with similar kilometres to yours would probably be advertised for around the $14,000 mark or even more. And that’s almost twice what it was worth just a year ago.

The transmission in this era of Ford Territories was notorious for suffering a failed transmission oil cooler. If that happened, the coolant would often mix with the transmission’s fluid, causing massive damage to both the electronics and the mechanical components of the transmission. In severe cases, the vehicle could lose drive altogether. A replacement transmission is the usual fix, so it’s an expensive failure.

But the first check to make is of another part of the Territory that is also known for giving trouble. In this case, though, the end result is nothing like as dramatic as it’s caused by damaged or poorly adjusted (loose) selector linkages. A quick tighten or adjustment will have the transmission operating properly again, but you need to ascertain what’s causing your problem in the first place. Don’t forget to check that there’s actually sufficient fluid inside the transmission, too, as low fluid can cause a loss of drive. Most workshops will be able to diagnose either problem pretty quickly.