Ask The Guide

The first response of most mechanics on this would be that you have a head gasket leak in the engine. Coolant in the oil and/or oil in the coolant are classic symptoms of this. It happens because the faulty head gasket allows the two fluids to mix but, depending on exactly where the gasket fails, you don’t necessary get both symptoms. A workshop can pressure test the engine’s cooling system and perform what’s called a TK test to show up any contaminants in the coolant that have found their way there via a blown head gasket.

But before you go tearing into the engine, check the service records to find out how old the coolant is. Coolant will discolour over time and kilometres and what you’re seeing as a `milky colour’ might simply be old coolant that has gone cloudy and needs changing.

You can probably rule out anything like a split turbo hose as this would cause the vehicle to lose power all the time, not just after prolonged use. Modern turbo-diesels like the one in your car use a range of electronic sensors and controls to keep everything running properly. It could easily be that a sensor is sending erroneous messages to the computer. An electronic scan of the vehicle should offer some answers.

The other possibility is that the fuel system is not keeping up with the engine over time. This could be due to a blocked filter, a blocked fuel line or return line or even a fuel pump overheating. A check of the fuel system would also be in order.

Your car requires an octane rating of 91 RON and, to be honest, the biggest difference in using the more expensive 95 or even 98 RON brew will probably be to your wallet, not the car. Changing to a higher octane rating is not really a scientific way of fixing problems like rough running, and there’s probably another reason for the poor performance.

I’d be scanning the car electronically for a clue to what’s going wrong with it, but bear in mind rough running can be caused by lots of things. If you really want to pursue the fuel you’re using as a potential cause of the problem, rather than change to 95 RON, change the service station you use. Sometimes, a service station can have contaminated underground tanks and this can cause all sorts of running problems by the time the dirty fuel is in your tank. Another hint: If you see a fuel tanker delivering fuel to a service station as you pull up to refuel, find another service station. The fresh fuel being pumped into the underground tank will stir up all sorts of nasties that would otherwise settle at the bottom of the tank. By filling up immediately after the station’s tanks have been filled, you stand a good chance of buying a tankful of dirty fuel.

The prime suspect for this is a blocked vent that normally funnels condensation from the air-conditioning system to the outside of the car. If this vent becomes blocked or split, the condensation can enter the cabin. Other possibilities include a damaged heater matrix which can leak coolant into the cabin or a sunroof with blocked drainage channels that can also leak into the vehicle.

The cable that drives the speedometer is a likely candidate for this in some cars, Aaron, but mainly older ones than your Triton. The cable will eventually run out of lubricant, at which point it can bind up and won’t turn smoothly (the cause of the hyperactive needle) while also making a dry squawking noise (the budgies). But, from memory, your car has an electronically-driven speedo, so the cause is more likely that the speedometer itself is worn out and causing internal friction (for the same set of symptoms).

I’ve certainly heard of metallic paint on Mitsubishi Lancers peeling from the clear coat before, but it’s hardly a Mitsubishi-specific problem. Many car-makers had trouble (and some of them still struggle) to get clear-over-base paint finishes to work with Australian levels of UV radiation. Strangely enough, Australian car-makers have been some of the worst offenders over the years. The problem is that once the top, clear coat has begun to discolour and peel, the lower, colour cat is usually compromised beyond salvation as well. Repainting either the entire car or the horizontal surfaces (which cop the most UV grief) is the only real long-term solution.

I’d be very surprised if any car-maker came to the rescue with a paint-finish warranty claim after a decade, but it certainly can’t hurt to ask Mitsubishi Australia’s customer service department at head office. In any case, getting any sort of help with this will depend on how the vehicle has been maintained, where it’s been parked and whether any aftermarket paint treatments were ever applied. Largely, however, this type of paint degradation is regarded as normal wear and tear.

Your car’s sat-nav should be taking its data from an SD card that’s inserted in a slot inside the glove-box. So, the first thing to check is that the SD card is seated in the slot correctly. But there have been cases where the VW’s software seems to have a light-headed moment and loses the plot (it happens on plenty of other brands, too). One thing you can try is to press the on-off button for the infotainment screen and hold it down for at least 15 seconds. Sometimes, that will actually reboot the system and everything will come to life again, including the sat-nav.

Failing that, it’s a trip to the dealership to have the experts fix it. It may turn out that your data card or the software in the car needs an upgrade, which the dealership should be able to sort out for you.

I’m not in a position to guide you around the financial aspects of this problem, Joseph, but it remains that the transfer-case in this model Mazda has, indeed, earned a very patchy reputation. It seems that Mazda never specified an oil-change interval for the transfer-case and, over time, the oil can break down and lead to high operating temperatures and internal wear of the mechanical parts. This can include metal fragments breaking off and damaging other components, as well as the high temperatures causing fusing (damage) to the metal parts. In some cases, that can also damage the spline shaft that joins the transmission to the transfer-case and, if that happens, the transmission will also be severely damaged. This has been known to occur in cars with as little as 70,000km on board.

The reason the transfer-case oil wasn’t changed when you had the car serviced is simply because that task is not listed as a service item for this car. Which was, remember, the problem in the first place. Most workshops now agree that the CX-9’s transfer-case oil be changed every 60,000km or so, but sadly, it seems that’s all a bit too late for you. There was a Special Service Bulletin issued for this problem in the USA, but don’t assume that this will also apply to Australian Mazdas. That said, I’d still be having a chat with Mazda Australia’s customer service department.

Steering wheel controls are very convenient but, generally speaking, they’re not something that can be retro-fitted. Even if there was higher specification Focus with steering wheel controls as a factory fitment (and the Ghia version of your car did) it’s unlikely your car would have the wiring and electronics to adapt the steering wheel from that model. Even if the wheel could be physically fitted, the functions wouldn’t be accessible to the rest of the car.

We haven’t heard of the Kluger jumping out of gear as a common problem, but it’s definitely one you need a mechanic to look at as there’s an obvious safety implication if you lose drive at a critical moment. The 'flaring' could simply be the behaviour that’s been programmed into the vehicle at the factory. The idea is that when you start to use large throttle inputs (say, when overtaking) the vehicle interprets that as you driving on a winding, uphill road. So, to keep the engine making lots of power, it holds on to a lower gear than seems normal. And that’s what you’re feeling when the revs stay high beyond your overtaking move. Try adjusting the car’s mode from Sport to Normal or even Economy, at which point the transmission should become a little less frenetic.

The good news is that, if there’s something wrong, your car should still be covered by Toyota’s factory warranty (which was three-years/100,000km when your car was bought new) so make it Toyota’s problem. If you’re not happy with your dealer, talk to Toyota Australia’s customer service department.