Ask The Guide

If you liked the RAV4, then a newer, more modern RAV 4 should be on your shopping list. Your budget gets you into a RAV 4 from, say 2012 or 2013, and these were, in fact, available in two-wheel-drive (since you no longer need all-wheel-drive).

The march of technology means that the RAV 4 used less fuel with every generation, so it’s worth comparing your car’s fuel economy with the later version. While early versions of the RAV 4 (like the own you once owned) would have trouble beating 10 litres per 100km, the more modern RAV 4 from 2013 will easily consume less than eight litres per 100km over the same distance. If you drive carefully, that difference could be even greater. Don’t confuse the continuation of a badge with the stagnation of technology.

This sounds like a problem that should be easily solvable by having your Hyundai dealership electronically scan the car and interpreting the fault codes that result. This can’t be done by the side of the road or in your driveway, so I doesn’t surprise me that your road-service provider hasn’t had much success.

Fundamentally, though, it’s simply not good enough for the dealership to continue to tell you it can’t find a problem. This is a brand-new car and it’s expected to perform faultlessly or, at the very least, to a standard that does not give your partner cause to refuse to drive it. The car is under warranty, so Hyundai is obliged to fix it. If you’re not happy with your dealership’s approach, I’d suggest calling Hyundai’s customer service department. Hyundai guards its reputation very closely in Australia, and isn’t likely to let a case like yours damage that.

Plastic interior components in Japanese and European cars were once very susceptible to early failures in terms of cracking, peeling, discolouring and warping. The problem was that the manufacturers from these markets had an utter lack of understanding of Australian levels of UV radiation and heat cycles and, as a result, their plastic interiors soon disintegrated. Things soon changed for the better, however, and modern cars have very resilient interior fittings.

However, that makes it even stranger that your car should be exhibiting this problem. I’s not something that we’ve seen across a wide cross-section of CR-V vehicles, so maybe it’s a one-off manufacturing fault. Perhaps the plastic trim piece you refer to was damaged when it was fitted at the factory and has gradually become worse with age. Either way, it should be a simple warranty repair for your local dealership. Replacing the trim piece with a new one is the answer as the damaged part probably can’t be repaired economically.

Mitsubishi quotes a power output of 110kW at 3500rpm and torque of 360Nm at 1500rpm for that vehicle. All these figures – and plenty more - can be found within the Carsguide website by clicking on the prices and specs tab and entering the make, model and year.

This is a potentially lethal fault as anything amiss with a car’s braking system is a major recipe for disaster. It sounds as though the braking system is applying pressure when you hit the brake pedal, but not allowing the pressure to release when you take your foot off the brake.

If yours was an older car, I’d be suspecting the flexible brake hoses had collapsed internally, allowing the brake fluid to pass through them one way but not return. However, this seems unlikely in a car as new as the one you’ve described. Which leads me to think that perhaps the brake master cylinder is at fault or, perhaps the anti-lock braking system is the culprit as this system controls the flow of fluid to each caliper. Either way, it’s straight back to the dealership for a warranty claim, but I’d be taking the vehicle there on the back of a truck as it really doesn’t sound safe to drive as it is. Driving a car with binding or dragging brakes can very quickly overheat the brake fluid, leading to a complete brake failure with obvious potential results.

If you’re unhappy with the service from your dealership, I would suggest contacting the manufacturer’s customer service division and stating your case. I’d also be asking for a replacement car until yours is fixed.

It’s nice to see that the worldwide web has put Carsguide in touch with people in the USA and that they’re prepared to ask for advice from half a planet away. Meanwhile, if safety is your number one priority, then you really need to find a vehicle with all the latest driver aids such as autonomous emergency braking, lane-keeping assistance and rear-cross-traffic alert. These are the new safety must-haves now that air-bags, stability control and other systems are considered par for the course.

The catch with your situation (from our point of view) is that the vehicles we assess and test in Australia don’t necessarily correlate with the North American buying experience. The specifications of Australian-delivered cars don’t always line up with those of a USA-market vehicle, and that can mean that the safety kit fitted here isn’t mirrored by the same make and model sold on your side of the pond. Don’t forget, too, that some makes and models (Hyundai and Kia are good examples) often feature Australian input into the suspension and steering settings to make them more palatable to an Australian audience. As a result, the same car without that input (such as the version sold in the US) might drive very differently.

You really have two ways to go here. The fact that you want to go off-road in the best/worst conditions this country has to offer means an SUV or cross-over just isn’t going to cut it. With that in mind, you’re looking at either a dual-cab ute or a conventional four-wheel-drive wagon.

In the ute world, there’s plenty of choice within your budget, but you need to be careful that the vehicle in question hasn’t been worked to death by a tradie towing a bobcat Monday to Friday. The popularity of these vehicles, meanwhile, means that there’s lots of choice when it comes to aftermarket bits and pieces to complete your dream vehicle.

The other route – a conventional wagon-style 4X4 – also places a lot of choice within your budget. The Toyota LandCruiser Prado would be a good choice, as would something like a Mitsubishi Pajero which has always represented good value for money both brand-new and second-hand. You could also look at Nissan Patrols which also give you plenty of car for the money and, if you shop carefully, you could find a really nice LandCruiser 80 Series, reckoned by some to be the absolute pinnacle of off-road wagons, even though they’re getting on a bit now. There’s great aftermarket and service support for all these options, so it will come down to your personal preferences.

This is possibly a fault with the smart key which not only physically unlocks the car, but also disables the immobiliser and allows the car to start. Have you somehow managed to lock the keys in the car at any stage and retrieved them with the spare key? If so, try the spare key to see if that will now start the car.

I’m told that locking the keys inside the car and opening it with the spare key, will wipe the electronic coding on the first key, meaning that it will no longer unlock all the electronic security measures. You can take the key to a dealership and have it recoded. Perhaps it’s just that the key has failed electronically for no good reason and needs either a new battery or a new key module. Generally speaking, messages like `No VID Found’ suggest that the key is not talking to the car’s body computer. Often it’s the key, but sometimes it can be the body computer itself.

The advice to always idle a hot turbocharged engine down was based on a period in time when turbochargers didn’t have the water-cooled bearings they do now. With modern turbos such as the one in your Mazda, the bearing shouldn’t get hot enough to need idling down (cooling gradually while the engine idles, pumping oil through the turbo bearing).

That said, I would imagine that the Mazda’s engine management software incorporates a line of code that will not allow the stop/start function to operate if the engine was at a high enough temperature that anything (turbo included) might be damaged by shutting the engine down suddenly. That same logic also ensures that the stop/start is disabled if the battery is low on charge, if the air-conditioner is running flat out or any other condition exists that requires the engine to be running. If you’re still concerned, you could always disable the stop/start function manually when you come to a stop after a drive and manually idle the engine for a minute or two before shutting it off. I appreciate mechanical sympathy, and so, obviously, do you, Steven.

Open the bonnet of the car and find the build plate. It will probably be attached to either the firewall or the suspension tower. The plate is a small, metal plate that lists information such as the car’s model, build number, its engine details, trim code, the build date and the colour code. This information can then be given to a paint shop and the correct colour brewed up to make for a perfect colour match for repairs and touch-ups.