Toyota Problems

Here’s a figure you won’t find on the specification sheet on the brochure. The internet is no help either, so I took my trusty tape-measure around to a Toyota dealership and worked it out old-school. The answer is 400mm (40cm) but that’s for a standard vehicle. Bigger tyres and lifted suspension will throw that into a cocked hat.

If your dad was happy with his previous Yaris, then I think the new model would suit him just as well. Don’t be put off by the lack of a sedan, as the hatchback version is actually even better at swallowing things like wheelchairs. You’d be amazed at just how practical a conventional hatchback is. The real shame is that Toyota no longer sells the three-door version of the Yaris (they’re all five-doors now). Because the three-door model had longer doors, they made getting and in and out even easier. The only catch was that they opened pretty wide (which is why disabled car-parking spaces are extra wide as well).

None of the vehicles you’ve listed are exactly low-maintenance units. They all have complex all-wheel-drive drivelines (which will be appreciated when towing a heavy trailer across a wet showground) and they use the latest common-rail diesel technology which is fairly intolerant of poor servicing.

As for a power tailgate on a ute, I’m afraid you’re out of luck. But some of the wagon versions of these vehicles can be optioned with powered tailgates. The catch there is that these vehicles use coil sprung rear axles (as opposed to the leaf-sprung ute versions) so they’re not as adept at towing. The Toyota Fortuner, for instance can’t match the HiLux’s 3.5-tonne limit and makes do with 2800kg; not enough for your requirements. The Ford Everest (based on the Ranger) is a little better at 3000kg, but still trails the Ranger’s 3500kg towing capacity and is right on your self-imposed minimum.

A few factors determine engine longevity, so let’s start with the first of those, the basic materials and design of the engine in question. Both the Toyota and Honda have advanced small-capacity engines that are made from quality materials. So that’s in their favour.

The second factor is servicing. A lack of regular maintenance including fresh oil and filters will kill engines fast, so that’s crucial. And finally, how they are driven will also play a part. An engine that only does long distances in the country will always last longer than one that is subjected to frequent cold starts and stop-start traffic. An engine that is regularly revved to redline between the gears will also potentially die younger than one that is driven sensibly and with a bit of mechanical sympathy.

The bottom line? There’s no short answer. But I have seen small-capacity Honda and Toyota engines clock up 250,000km and more with correct maintenance. Things have certainly changed from the 1950s when the average car engine needed a rebuilt every 100,000km and what was called a de-coke and valve-grind every 30,000km. Ask your grandfather about it.

Driven very, very carefully, a Toyota Yaris would probably make it up the Oodnadatta Track, but it would be a very slow process and the car may never feel the same again. Even a proper off-road four-wheel-drive can suffer at the hands of outback roads like these, and the corrugations have to be experienced to be believed. That theory also presupposes that the track is in relatively good condition at the time and it hasn’t been raining in those parts.

Given that the vast bulk of your driving is, indeed, in Yaris territory I can see your point. Perhaps renting a four-wheel-drive for the Oodnadatta Track holiday would be the way to go.

The world of hybrids is moving very fast, Hannah, and the rule of thumb is that newer is better purely because the technology is improving all the time. You’re obviously concerned with running costs and your carbon-footprint, so the latest hybrid technology with a full factory warranty would seem to be an obvious way to go.

That puts the new Corolla Hybrid firmly in the frame as both a car with the latest planet-saving and life-saving tech as well as Toyota’s five-year/unlimited-kilometre warranty as well as a ten-year warranty on the hybrid’s batteries. For some reason, Lexus hasn’t budged on its four-year warranty, meaning that a 2017 CT200h might only have a few months of factory cover to run if your bought it now. You’ll also potentially pay more for the second-hand Lexus than you will for the brand-new Corolla.

The only real drawback with the Corolla Hybrid is that its luggage space – because of the battery-packs – is quite shallow. But beyond that it’s a great car with the hybrid driveline thrown in for just a couple of grand extra. That’s a bargain and it’s one of the reasons the new Corolla will be a lot of Australian families’ first hybrid.

It’s a fact of life, Ted, that fuel-efficiency has been a big focus for car-makers in the last decade. So, the most economical models tend to be the newer ones which tap into better technology (such as stop-start functions) and improved engine and driveline designs.

But beyond the improvements in petrol-engine technology, diesel engines have brought some big improvements, as have hybrid vehicles. The real headline makers have been, of course, the plug-in electric vehicles which are now available second-hand for sensible money. I’ve seen Nissan Leafs for sale for less than $20,000 and the plug-in hybrid Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV for similar money.

If economy is your number-one aim, stay away from all-wheel-drive cars as the extra driveline friction requires more power and, therefore, fuel to drive it. And don’t forget that how you drive, where you drive and even whether you check you tyre pressure regularly can also have a huge effect on your ultimate fuel economy.

The RAV4 in its current guise is the best the model has ever been. Of course, that’s exactly how it should be, but some car-makers don’t always crack the newer-is-better code. You’re right about the new RAV4 Hybrid being the headline grabber, but that’s because it’s the big change in the RAV4 formula and the one that is likely to attract the most new customers to the franchise. There’s nothing wrong with the two-litre CVT RAV4 per se, but you might find the performance of the smaller petrol engine a bit on the weedy side, especially with a full load of bodies and luggage on board. And, as with any CVT car, the advice is to drive it before you decide, and make sure you don’t find the CVT’s behaviour too foreign. Some people do, others never notice it.

The Kia Sportage Sport is another good package but suffers the same lacklustre engine performance issue in two-litre petrol form. It does, though, have a conventional six-speed automatic transmission rather than a CVT. And while the Sportage was facelifted in 2018, its basic design goes back to 2015. Which, in fact, makes it an older design than the Mazda CX-5 which was first launched here in 2017. Any of the three vehicles you’ve nominated will do the job but history suggests the Toyota will hold more resale value when trade-in time rolls around. And congratulations on the new addition to the family.

For a start, where did you get that price for the part? Was it advertised online? Many workshops refuse to use cheap, knock-off (copied) parts from overseas warehouses, so the replacement switch they are proposing to use may easily be more expensive.

I know it sounds like a lot of money, Debbie, but even if that is the price of the switch, here’s roughly how it breaks down. The workshop will usually add a percentage of mark-up on the part involved to cover the cost of ordering it, so let’s say that $84 part will be passed on to you for $100. Then, labour is charged out per hour, and rates can be anything from $75 to $150 (generally speaking, although specialists can charge much, much more than that). But even if we take the middle of those figures and call it $120 per hour, and the job takes one hour, by the time you’ve added the $100 switch, you’re already at $220 and the cheapest of your quotes. And that’s if there are no other little rubber seals, wiring terminals or plastic clips that need to be replaced as part of the job.

Also, consider that to do this job, there’s a fair chance the steering wheel will have to be removed and that’s not as simple as it sounds in a car with an air-bag in the steering wheel. Time is money, but never more so than in a busy workshop. The bottom line is that it those quotes don’t sound like a rip-off at all.

As far as finding a workshop in your area, word of mouth is usually a pretty good indicator in these cases. Ask your friends and family (and anybody else you trust) where they take their cars and be guided on that basis to begin with.

The problem with all these vehicles, Darren, is that they seem to have covered huge distances (200,000km is a lot for a car that is just eight years old, no?). Also, some of them have covered those kilometres towing huge, heavy trailers and a full tray at the same time. So, the first piece of advice is to buy one that has a full service history and hasn’t been worked half to death. A Ranger with a huge bull-bar, suspension lift, winch and mud tyres, for instance, is a dead certainty to have been thrashed through the bush every weekend of its life. So be careful and take each vehicle on its merits and overall condition.

It seems you’ve heard of the Ranger’s engine troubles (overheating due to faulty EGR coolers and failed fuel injectors) but the Toyota three-litre turbo-diesel is not without its faults either. Cracked pistons between 100,000km and 150,000km are not unknown and, like any common-rail diesel, the Toyota’s engine can consume injectors at a frightening rate. The bottom line is that all these modern common-rail diesels are highly tuned and absolutely need their maintenance. Even then, they can fail, so it’s worth knowing.

For your purposes, Darren, I think the Ranger with its more powerful engine (147kW and 470Nm plays the Toyota’s 120kW and 343Nm) and much greater towing capacity (3500kg for the Ford, 2250kg for the Toyota) would be the smarter way to go.