Toyota Problems

Here’s a figure you won’t find on the specification sheet on the brochure. The internet is no help either, so I took my trusty tape-measure around to a Toyota dealership and worked it out old-school. The answer is 400mm (40cm) but that’s for a standard vehicle. Bigger tyres and lifted suspension will throw that into a cocked hat.

completely redesigned the RAV4 for an Australian launch back in January 2019, so don’t expect wholesale changes until the mid-life facelift probably in another coupe of years. That’s as far as the basic engineering goes, of course, but in specification and option terms there could be some shuffling around as Toyota is continually homing in on the sweet spot when it comes to equipment versus price-point.

The other thing to watch out for – and Toyota is very good at this – is the limited-edition variant of the RAV4. These variants usually offer a load of standard equipment at a bargain price and are a car company’s way of clearing the shelves. Look out, too, in coming weeks, for good deals on RAV4’s (and any other make and model) with a 2019 build-date as these are often heavily discounted in the first few weeks of a new year. Again, it’s a shelf-clearing exercise, but it can mean very good deals.

The short answer is yes. All Toyotas sold brand-new in Australia after the turn of the century (and some models well before that date) can run on E10.

There are circumstances under which you would stay away from a modern turbo-diesel, but they have more to do with how you’ll use the vehicle than they do with the vehicle itself. The rule of thumb is that you should really only buy a diesel version of a particular car if you plan to use it for at least one decent trip at freeway speeds every three or four weeks at the very least. Along with that is the proviso that you’ll cover enough kilometres each year to balance the higher purchase price and servicing costs of a diesel against the lower fuel costs.

The highway-driving caveat is all about long-term reliability and emissions. Modern turbo-diesels are often fitted with what’s called a diesel-particulate filter (DPF). This filter, designed to trap some of the more harmful exhaust emissions) eventually fills up with the soot from the diesel’s exhaust and, when that happens, it’s designed to burn off that soot and regenerate itself, ready for another go round. But if you only drive short distances or only ever at suburban speeds, the filter can often not get hot enough to perform this burn-off and regeneration. When that happens, the filter warning light on your dashboard lights up and it’s off to the dealership for a – sometimes – costly manual regeneration. In extreme cases, the DPF may even need to be replaced and that’s not cheap either.

So, if you’re not planning regular trips at freeway speeds, conventional wisdom says a modern turbo-diesel is not for you.

Because you’re looking at a car built before January 1 2019, the vehicle won’t carry Toyota’s current, upgraded five-year factory warranty. Instead, you’ll get what’s left of the three-year/100,000km factory warranty. In the case of a hybrid Toyota, that also includes eight years and 160,000km worth of cover for the batteries, so if the car you buy is just two or three years old, you’ll have anything up to six years of warranty on the battery-pack. That’s a pretty good deal.

The catch is that the car you buy must have a full service record that shows it has not been neglected in any way. If the service record has gaps in it, Toyota has the right to cancel the warranty on that particular vehicle.

Modern hybrids are clever in that when a battery cell fails, only the dud cell (rather than the whole battery-pack) needs to be replaced. Our experience, too, in this department is that Toyota hybrids are hitting wrecking yards (thanks to crashes) faster than they’re wearing out their battery-packs. That means there’s a decent supply of second-hand batteries with lots of life left in them at reasonable prices. One quote for a second-hand Prius battery-pack was between $1500 and $2000 from a wrecking yard.

I’ll take a punt here and suggest that the $55,000 price was the trade-in value at a Toyota dealership. Certainly, it’s about what a dealer would offer as a trade-in on a new LandCruiser, so it’s a good deal at that money.

The best thing you can do is sit your mate down, look him in the eye and get honest answers about how the vehicle has been used and what condition it’s in. This was a relatively early example of the turbo-diesel V8 and while they improved as Toyota made running changes, the early engines were known to burn a bit of oil. After his years of ownership, your pal should be well aware of things like that, so get some straight answers.

If it checks out, that’s great, but you’d still want to have a contingency budget for repairs as these were complex machines, and even jobs like replacing the starter motor (which lives up under the inlet manifold on these V8s) can cost a motzah to complete. That said, I love the idea that the vehicle has done mostly highway kilometres and that it’s never been off road. Seriously, that’s the second-hand LandCruiser you want to buy.

Let me guess, you did an oil change 12 months ago using semi-synthetic oil and then another one six months ago using fully-synthetic. And now, there’s just enough oil left in either container that, if you combined them, you could do the next oil change without buying more oil. Am I close?

Anyway, the short answer is no, you shouldn’t mix two different types or grades of oil. Remember the old Castrol TV ads; Oils aint oils? Well, it should have been: Oils aint just oils. Oil isn’t just refined crude; a modern automotive engine oil is made up of lots of components, collectively referred to as additives. These additives make oil more effective at both high and low temperatures as well as providing extra protection and sometimes even a cleaning function.

Which is great, but the different additives in different oils sometimes don’t get along too well when they’re mixed. Sometimes they can cancel each other out, at which point you’re suddenly using oil that doesn’t protect as well as it should.

Keep the spare oil from each oil change as a top-up (something you probably won’t need in a relatively new Toyota Camry). And if it’s not needed for that, give the poor old lawn-mower an oil change with the left-overs. How long since the mower or brush-cutter got some love?

Flat-towing – where the towed vehicle has all four wheels on the ground – is common in North America where it’s quite normal to see a motorhome flat-towing a Chevy Suburban or Ford SUV. The idea is that the motorhome is the mother-ship and the SUV becomes the grocery-getter once you’ve settled in somewhere with a nice view. They take their fun seriously, those Americans.

The practice is much less common here, but I’ve seen a few Suzuki Sierras and Vitaras and other small four-wheel-drives being flat-towed, so clearly it’s possible. As you’ve identified, a two-wheel-drive vehicle with a conventional manual gearbox shouldn’t suffer any dramas from being flat-towed. That said, I’d be careful with a four-wheel-drive, particularly a permanent all-wheel-drive example - because these are more complex drivelines and sometimes don’t appreciate being back-loaded.  It’s also worth remembering that a vehicle with a conventional automatic is a no-no for flat-towing as, unless the engine is running, the pump that lubricates the transmission isn’t working and the gearbox will be destroyed.

Unless the dealer can show you precisely why a particular year-model HiLux shouldn’t be flat-towed, I’d be a bit suspicious (especially when other dealers say yes) but the fact that nobody wants to offer you a warranty on a HiLux that’s being flat-towed also suggests to me that you could run into problems if there’s ever a claim.

It would also be worth checking what your insurance company says about flat-towing and don’t forget that different States and Territories have different rules and regulations. In Queensland, for instance, the law says that unless the unladen mass of the towing vehicle is at least three-and-a-half times the laden mass of the vehicle being flat-towed, you need to somehow make the towed vehicle’s brakes part of the package. On that basis, unless you’re towing your 1500kg HiLux with a vehicle that weighs at least 5250kg unladen, you’ve got yourself a problem that could involve the law and the insurance industry if something goes wrong.

I’d go for the Rukus every time. And that’s not to say there’s anything inherently wrong with the Nissan Cube, but it was only sold here as a private import with all the insurance, servicing and spare-parts hassles that can bring with it.

But besides all that, the Rukus is, mechanically speaking, the previous-generation Toyota Camry, built on a Corolla platform with a super-useable boxy body. So, as well as being amazingly practical, it should also be a zero-hassle ownership experience. The Rukus might not have the pizzazz of the Nissan, but it’s the one to buy second-hand.