Nissan X-TRAIL Problems

The X-Trail of that era has an unbraked towing limit of 750kg and a braked limit of 2000kg. On that basis, the short answer is yes, you need to have brakes on your caravan.

But the detail is a little more involved. While you do need a braked trailer (caravan in your case) for the Nissan to handle 960kg safely, those brakes don't necessarily need to be the electric variety. A simpler mechanical braking system would also be acceptable and should work fine on a relatively light van such as the one you've described.

Mechanical brakes are preferred by some users who like the fact that the trailer in question can be used on any car with the required towing limit. In the case of electric brakes, a control unit has to be fitted to the tow-vehicle. That gets a bit complicated and is an extra cost. Larger caravan (over 2000kg GTM) need electric brakes, but mechanical brakes are fine for smaller, lighter vans.

Changing the fuel filter may affect fuel economy indirectly, but not to the extent of dropping consumption 3.5 litres per 100km. The indirect effect we’re talking about here is having an engine with a clean filter that is making all the power it possibly can, and that, in turn, allowing you to drive it with less throttle input and, therefore, lower fuel consumption. But the end result would be fractions of a litre per 100km.

A camshaft-angle sensor, I think, would be in much the same boat. By having the camshaft timing perfectly spot on, you’ll have an engine that’s making the most of each litre of fuel. But, unless the current cam-angle sensor is faulty, changing it for a new one won’t make a scrap of difference to your fuel economy.

The best way to reduce your fuel usage is by driving the vehicle smoothly and gently and with a light right foot. My suspicion is that that’s exactly what you’ve been (sub-consciously) doing since changing the fuel filter and chasing better fuel mileage.

This issue will always come down to the documented service history that each car comes with. A switched-on previous owner will not only have serviced the vehicle by the book, but will also have kept the relevant receipts as proof of this crucial work being done. We'd always choose the vehicle with a big wad of service receipts over a similar car with no (or less) evidence of scheduled maintenance.

Beyond that, the Nissan clearly has almost 50,000 fewer kilometres on its odometer, so all things being equal it probably nudges ahead at that point. In either case, the CVT transmission fitted to these cars is likely to be the major source of mechanical grief down the track. Both brands' CVT transmissions have been known to give trouble. If that bothers you, then perhaps the one to buy is the Outlander AWD with the turbo-diesel engine option. In that guise, the vehicle has a conventional automatic transmission rather than a CVT.

You've certainly gone to some extremes to check this out, but your investigations should give you a good clue that the problem is with front axle. So, it could either be the differential that is clattering and making the car judder or, perhaps more likely, the front CV joints which allow the car to drive its front axle while also steering the vehicle. Once you take the load off the front driveshafts (by disconnecting them) the noise stops because the worn CV joints aren't taking the strain of trying to move the car, so they don't make the horrible noise.

In some cases, you can simply replace the worn out CV joints, but there's also the option of complete driveshafts (with new CV joints already fitted) that are a simpler fix if a bit more costly. You can also buy driveshafts new or reconditioned. Its sounds like you're more than skilled enough to tackle this at home.

From what I can see in the owners’ manual, the X-Trail has the ability to display the vehicle’s current speed as part of the trip computer’s read-out. By scrolling through the various pages offered by the computer, you should be able to find one that gives a readout of current and average speed.

Later model X-Trails had a proper digital speedometer, but the trip computer version is the best you’ll get in this model.

Engines and transmissions need to operate across a wide range of temperatures, from zero (or lower) on a cold morning, to extremely hot (when towing a trailer across the Nullarbor in mid-summer). Sometimes these differing operating temperatures bring out different behaviours.

The problem of selecting gears is often caused by wear or a fault in the transmission’s valve body, or it could be something else within the gearbox such as a worn clutch-pack or band. On a simpler level, you could be looking at something as easy to fix as a mis-aligned or mal-adjusted selector cable. Another possibility is a low transmission fluid level. If this is the case, you need to find the source of the leak, not just top up the level, as a transmission is a sealed unit that shouldn’t need topping up.

If you’re going to tackle a home service on a vehicle like your Nissan, the first piece of advice is to buy a workshop manual and then find out exactly what a 150,000km service on that car demands. A service is not as simple as an oil and filter change, and if you don’t know what else is involved, you’ll almost certainly miss things. And don’t forget, the service list for the 120,000km service will almost certainly be different to the 150,000km job. Check the car’s glovebox for the service handbook which – if you’re lucky – will list the things you need to check and change for this service. The workshop manual, meanwhile, will let you in on the little secrets that make your car tick and how to get at the various bits and pieces.

As a guide, though, the petrol-engined T31 X-Trail’s 150,000km service requires replacement of the oil, oil filter, air filter, brake fluid and air-conditioner filter. You also need to inspect (and rectify if necessary) the drive belts, cooling system, fuel lines, EVAP vapour lines, brake and clutch fluid, brake and clutch system, brake booster hoses, transmission oil/fluid level, steering and suspension, differential oil, wheel alignment, seat-belts, and the park brake. This service also calls for lubrication of the vehicle’s locks and latches.

And people complain about the cost of a simple service!

It concerns me somewhat that any metal shavings were found in the oil when the gearbox was serviced. That said, some metallic `dust’ is part of the process of a transmission wearing, so it’s not necessarily the end of the world. In fact, this tiny debris is common enough that manufacturers actually often fit magnetic drain plugs to trap the particles and stop them being pumped through the transmission time and time again where they can do more damage.

I guess it all comes down to the size of the particles and whether a specialist transmission shop (which is your first port of call) thinks they are worth worrying about. But as rule of thumb (quite literally) if the particles are big enough to be picked up in your fingers or they feel sharp, then there’s something wrong inside that gearbox.

Metallic dust on its own is also less of a problem if there are no other symptoms. But you seem to think the behaviour and shift patterns of your transmission have changed recently (prompting you to have the unit serviced) and that really begins to sound like there’s something going on inside the transmission. Mind you, at the mileage you’ve quoted, that’s not really a surprise and plenty of CVTs have given up the ghost longer before 250,000km have been covered.

The CVT transmission in the X-Trail has caused plenty of owners problems over the years. Jerking or shuddering is usually down to one of two things: Either the metal belt inside the transmission which provides the drive is worn and is slipping, or; the transmissions valve body is faulty and needs replacement. Either way, it’s a fairly major repair.

But what you haven’t told me for certain is that your car is, indeed, a CVT-equipped example. In the off-chance that your car has the much rarer conventional manual transmission, then the problem is more likely to be something wrong with the engine that is causing the problem at a particular engine speed (2000rpm in your case). Changing the plugs is a decent first step, but in the longer term, you’ll have more success by having the vehicle scanned and seeing what fault codes are thrown up by the car’s computer.

The engines in the 2014 X-Trail were tuned by Nissan to run perfectly on 91 RON unleaded petrol. That means that if you use the more expensive Premium ULP available (95 or 98 RON) you’ll basically be wasting money. That’s because an engine that isn’t tuned for the Premium brew won’t run any better or use less fuel on PULP.

The other bit of good news is that your vehicle is also compatible with ethanol-blended petrol. That means, you can fill up from the E5 or E10 pump at the service-station and maybe save a few cents per litre in the process.