Mitsubishi SUV Range

There are several things that could be causing a loss of power on really hot days, but a prime suspect would be an engine that is getting too hot. When that happens, the car will often go into limp-home mode which is usually signalled by a loss of power and a check-engine light illuminating (the precise symptoms you’re seeing).

The air conditioner consumes quite a bit of engine power when its working, and this extra load might be the tipping point for the car starting to overheat. When you switch it off, the engine can relax a little and the temperature falls. So the advice would be to have the car’s cooling system checked. It could be low on coolant or have a faulty pump, hose or thermostat. While you’re at it, have the car electronically scanned to see if any fault codes have been recorded, as this will also help your mechanic diagnose the issue.

Squeaks from the engine bay are often caused by worn drive belts, their pulleys and tensioners. You might even have a worn power steering pump, water pump or air-conditioning compressor that is giving off the odd squeak or groan. It’s worth tracking down, though, as should any of these components seize or snap, you could be left stranded.

Check around the water pump for any sign of moisture. At the bottom of the pump housing near the front of the engine, there should be what’s called a 'weep hole’. Any dampness here suggests a pump that’s already leaking and could let go any time, perhaps without further warning.

Even an air leak in any of the car’s vacuum systems (including the one that powers the brakes) can sound like a squeak or squeal, so check all the rubber lines for splits or holes and also that they’re tightly secured to their respective fittings.

Don’t forget to look for any evidence of chafing or rubbing together of various parts. This can also create odd noises.

This model Pajero is a bit notorious for having a crank-angle sensor that can fail over time. This is the part of the engine that tells the computer which cylinder needs to fire next, and precisely when, and if it starts to fail, that information is not conveyed and the engine will stall.

This sensor can fail gradually and intermittently too, producing the sort of hit and miss running you’re seeing now. It will often start to fail once the engine gets hot, and perhaps that’s why your car is stalling after running for a short time.

The bottom line is to not ignore it as it won’t fix itself and will eventually get worse until the car won’t start at all. At which point, you’re stranded where ever you happen to be. It shouldn’t cost too much to replace the sensor, but a mechanic should be able to tell you if, indeed, this is the problem.